The wrecking of the Belgian steamer the Louis Shied could almost be a Victorian tale of virtue going un-rewarded. The Louis Shied, on her way home to Antwerp in the early morning of 7 December 1939, came across the remains of the stricken- ed freighter the Tajandoen, sinking off the south coast of Devon. The Tajandoen had either been torpedoed or struck a mine. In any event there had been a terrific explosion in the engine room, and she had gone down very rapidly. Even so, most of the crew and passengers managed to get off the ship and into the lifeboats.
Louis Shied hard aground
Unfortunately eight hundred tons of fuel oil had been released in the explosion, and lay in a vast spreading pool about the ship. As the lifeboats left the foundering vessel, flames from the fiercely burning engine room shot up out of the Tajandoen's funnels and set fire to the oil. The lifeboat, crews sizing up the situation, rowed like demons with the huge flames roaring all about them. With the fire threatening to burn their very oars, and with the passengers frantically beating off the flames, it was touch and go.
In the end all the boats managed to reach the safety of the open sea, in time to see their ship disappear in a seething mass of flames. The Louis Sheid, together with the Italian steamer the Georgio Ohlsen, managed to pick up about forty survivors, all of which were transferred to the Louis Shied for transport back to Antwerp. Although a neutral ship, the Louis Shied was taking a considerable risk stopping in waters so much favoured by the Uboats. However, the visibility was very poor, and once all the survivors were safely on board, the Master of the Louis Shied decided to minimise the risk from any possible submarine attack by clinging close to the Devon shore. With the good deeds just performed, Providence should have ensured a safe passage home. Alas for the Louis Shied, Providence forsook them.
At first there was hope of a successful salvage job
As the day turned to night, heavy rain squalls and the complete absence of any shore lights made conditions extremely difficult. The Louis Shied now unknowingly too close to the land for safety, sailed on into Thurlestone Bay, struck a rock and stranded on a reef directly under what was then the Links Hotel. To make matters worse, a southerly gale had started to blow, and huge waves were forcing the ship even further onto the rocks. With great skill the Salcombe lifeboat managed to get out to the Louis Shied and effect the rescue of everyone on board, some sixty-two in all. Since the Louis Shied had struck at low tide, there was every hope of saving her, but alas, as she floated off the rocks at high tide, the huge waves smashed her broadside onto the cliffs and wedged her even more firmly. In the end she defied all attempts to save her and was abandoned. Later she broke in two and was extensively cut up and salvaged piecemeal. A sad end to a brave ship.
The beginning of the end
Because the Louis Shied foundered so close inshore, this wreck makes an ideal shore dive. You can get at it from one of the beaches either side of the point upon which the old hotel is sited, (now a block of luxury flats), but the easiest is the beach next to the golf club. You can use the club's large car park, and from there it is a short walk to the beach. From the beach, which incidentally provides safe bathing even for young children, the wreck is only a short swim away and is impossible to miss. What's left of the Louis Shied now lies in less than thirty feet of water, scattered on a bed of rock and fine sand. At low tide some metal posts still show above the surface to mark her position. Down below the remains of the boilers, ribs from the hull, and masses of assorted steel plates all exude a gentle charm, which makes this wreck ideal for just pottering about on. The boilers house a colourful collection of wrasse, whilst the ribs provide shelter for hordes of large spider crabs, and numerous small fish. On a sunny summer's day the wreck is alive with colour and movement, and has been instrumental in introducing many a young diver to the thrills of wreck diving.
Submerged is a website about shipwrecks and scuba diving around Devon, UK and the world. It's written by Peter Mitchell, author of The Wrecker's Guide To South West Devon Vols 1 and II and several DVDs. [more info]