Montivideo is the largest city, capital and chief port of Uruguay. Its harbour is one of the most important in the America’s. Surrounded by beautiful sandy beaches the city of Montivideo is a mix of historic old buildings (they have just realized what they have and are now busy preserving them) large shady squares, museums and art galleries. It feels very European. The nicest part for the tourist is the old part of the city with lots of nice bars and chi-chi restaurants. The population is nearly one point five million which is roughly 44 percent of the total population of Uruguay.
(these two photo’s are courtesy of www.deutschland-class.dk)
This is a fantastic website. If you want to know everything about the Graff Spee, click the link
For the British and Germans however, Montivideo is most famous for the Battle of the River Plate and the destruction of the great German pocket battleship, the Graff Spee, chased into Montivideo by the British cruisers Ajax, Achilles and Exeter.Unable to escape, her Captain was ordered by Hitler to scuttle the ship, and he later commited suicide.
Right in the centre of the port is one of her huge anchors as well as the massive range finder that sat right at the top of the ship. About fifteen minutes taxi ride away along the coast is a small Naval Museum at Puerto Del Buceo.
Inside the museum has plenty of photographs of the Graff Spee sinking and the famous photo of Captain Langsdorff giving a naval saluted at the graveside of his fallen crew members when everybody else was giving the Nazi salute.
Some say that Hitler was insenced by his actions, seeing them as disloyal and this probably contributed to Langsdoff’s suicide as he would have most likely been put up against a wall and executed on his return to Germany.
Other items of interest are Langsdorffs ceremonial sword and a uniform from one of the petty officers. Interestingly there is also a uniform donated by Admiral Harwood who masterminded the victory over the German battleship.
Outside the museum is a 150mm gun raised from the vessel and another small anchor around the side. Its only a small museum, but it is packed full of other stuff about the Uruguayan navy and it is all very well presented.Entrance is free and it is open from 9am to 12pm, then 2pm to 6pm except Thursdays. Well worth a visit.
On Feb 2006 the eagle figurehead from the stern of the vessel was recovered. To protect the feelings of those still sensitive to Nazi Germany, the swasita on the figurehead was covered as it was pulled out of the water. This reignited all the fears about neo nazism. However the idea is to salvage as much of the wreck as possible. Unfortunately this needs a ton of money so the Eagle will probably be sold, and it will be difficult to stop it getting into the wrong hands.
Milo O'Shea says
My uncle, Lieutenant Commander Geoffrey Clarke RNR (deceased) was Assistant Naval Attaché in Montevideo with effect from November 1939. I have in my possession a collection of manuscript letters he wrote to his sister, Kathleen Mary Clarke, my mother, during the war.
I attach a copy of an extract from his letter dated 21 December 1939 to my mother which you may find of interest.
The contents of my note are as follows:
Geoffrey’s account of the scuttling of ‘The Graf Spee’
I think this letter must have been written in 2 sessions. The first half is purely domestic & social, with no mention of the war. The ink is then replenished and Geoff writes an account of the scuttling of ‘The Graf Spee’. I suspect he dated the letter retrospectively 21 December 1939, having begun it before the scuttling and then completed it afterwards. He writes:
“All else in this bloody war has been completely eclipsed by events of the past week. The naval engagement off Punte del Este, the running of the ‘Graf Spee’ into Montevideo harbour & her subsequent blowing up just outside the port have caused intense excitement & feeling here, particularly as there is a large German & pro-German population. We watched the Graf Spee leave harbour last Sunday & from the roof of our offices saw her blow herself up. Tragic but terrifically dramatic particularly as it was 8 o’clock & exactly at sunset. At last we felt part of the war& in the show & it’s made up for lots of regrets at being sent out here. My Chief was one of the big (illegible word – heroes?) & as his assistant I was right on the inside of it all – the ‘powers that be’ were in our office most of the time so you can guess how amazingly interesting it has all been & how I lapped it up. It was well worth all the long hours without sleep – at one period I had done 48 hours at a stretch! – & an occasion never to be forgotten. We saw history made and know the truth. It was an experience I had never hoped for. On the Monday I beg 2 hours off & went out in a tug to get some photos of her – still burning furiously – I’ve had them developed at the best shop here & they’ve chosen one of mine as the best they’ve had & are displaying it enlarged in the shop! I got a free enlargement! I’ve sent the snap to Reg – ask him to let you see it. “
…
Geoffrey adds a note, crammed into the margin:
“Work is increasing here rapidly so may not be able to keep up this weekly, may have to revert to fortnightly so don’t get alarmed if one doesn’t turn up.”.
Pedro says
The name of the German heavy cruiser was “Graf Spee” (not Graff). Graf in German is the title of Earl.
COATES A.J. says
Would it ever be considered possible to raise the wreckage, I appreciate that this would no be desirable to many. By a sheer twist of irony, HMS Exeter which took part in the engagement was sunk by the Japanese and subsequently salvaged from the sea bed by the Indonesions, The details of this operation are vague but factual. Could such an operation be carried be carried out on Graf Spee , she is after all not a war grave whereas the Exeter was.
James Thompson says
I saw the wreck in 1966 The ship I was on “Dunelmia” en route BAto MV
Andrés says
Not Graff Spee, Graf Spee.
Not Montivideo, Montevideo.
Ian Robertson says
Langsdoffs name has been removed from a street sign in Ajax Ontario Canada. It is thought he was a Nazi. This was based on him lying on a Nazi flag, and his last note pledging loyalty to his leader, however, his salute suggests otherwise. Is anything else being done to raise Graf Spee, ie coffer dams.