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The Longest Wreck Walk

Written by David Page

For many years my good friend and diving partner, Peter Mitchell and I, had been intrigued by the many “Myths and Legends”, circulating in the South West of England, concerning visits supposedly made to the region by Jesus, Joseph of Arimathea, Pontius Pilate, and their various retinues. Even the popular hymn “Jerusalem” asks the same question. The intention had always been to attempt to piece together that which we have been able to discover, from various sources, and for Peter to then “write it up” as one of his “Wreck Walks”.

Sadly, he passed away at the end of June 2015, so, as a “Tribute” to Peter, I shall attempt to put together the many notes we have made into something more “readable”, and hopefully spark off an interest in those others who read it.

****

Punches Cross, Polruan

Punches Cross, Polruan

About 2006 or 2007 we were making passage down the coast of Southern Cornwall and decided to enter Fowey Harbour. On the headland to our right, beneath the ruins of St Saviours church at Polruan, was seen a large white cross. It is called “Punches Cross” and, so legend has it, is where “Jesus, Joseph of Arimithea, and Pontius Pilate and their retinues” are reputed to have landed whilst visiting their “Mining Interests” down here in Cornwall. Joseph was Jesus’ uncle and had been his guardian since Joseph of Nazareth had died.

There has supposedly been a “cross” here for many hundreds of years, and its true origins have been lost in the mists of time. It was this cross that ignited our interest, and had led us both into areas of research we had never before thought possible.

It was at first thought that “Punches Cross” was so named as a local attempt at saying “Pontius”. We soon found, however, that it was more than likely to be a “marker” to denote entry or exit from “Church owned” lands further upriver, and thus a “Toll” was payable to the local “Bishop” at Tywardreath, as pilgrims journeyed North and South between Ireland, Wales, and across the English Channel to various holy sites in France and Spain during early Medieval times.

But the Legends and Myths were many and widespread, and as they often contain a fairly large “Grain of Truth”, we both felt they were worth looking deeper into. We soon found out about “The Saints Way”, a path leading across country to the North Coast of Cornwall around the River Camel Estuary. Here are many more legends, and an ancient well, named “Jesus Well” is easily found on the “O.S. 1:25,000 Explorer Map 106” just North West of Rock at “SW 937764”.

Jesus Well

Jesus Well

Once again though, this pathway across Cornwall, Jesus’ well, and the many ancient churches found along the route, such as the one half mile west of “Jesus’ Well”, St Enodoc’s, were found to be more than likely a part of one of the many “Pilgrimage” routes across Cornwall that had developed from around 700 – 800 A.D.

We soon were confronted by “Conventional Archaeology” seeming to have no interest whatsoever in the subject, being intent instead on constructing whole “civilizations” on a piece of broken pot or discarded arrow head. It soon became apparent that no “formal investigations” had ever been carried out, nor were they ever likely to be so.

We therefore had to enter into some really “strange places” via the books we read, and the Internet searches we carried out. Some were quite plausible, even if our credibility was stretched at times !

The most interesting book by far, “The Missing Years of Jesus”, was written by an ex-policeman, Mr. Dennis Price. He had also looked at the many available books and articles, and had decided to investigate further. He had looked into the “Means, Motive, and Opportunity” as if it were a real Police investigation. It must be said that he has convinced me !!

To hopefully get a better understanding and insight into this matter, we must leave our present “modern” ideas behind. We must put aside our presumed “Historical knowledge” for the moment, as it now seems as if the history we have long been taught has been heavily “censored”, and only that which the “Church” wished to be known has been allowed.

We must start way back in history, around 8 – 7,000 B.C. at a time when civilisation was first developing in the “Tigris and Euphrates basin” in what is now modern day Iraq. The peoples there were the “Sumerians”, and later the “Babylonians”. These peoples soon expanded outwards into Egypt and Eastwards into India. They took their knowledge of the “sciences”, their civilizing ideals and their religions with them. The peoples of those areas they moved into were heavily influenced by them and their religions, and even today “Hinduism”, Buddhism, and the now almost extinct “Druidism”, reflects the reverence for nature held by the incoming culture into ancient Egypt.

It has long been accepted that “Phoenician, Early Greek, and Pre-Roman conquest” trading in Tin, Copper, Lead, and even Gold, had been carried out between the South West of England and the Mediterranean cultures for many hundreds of years, well back into the Bronze age.

What was not expected to find was that there had seemingly existed an earlier “Egyptian Trade” in those same commodities, and through the same area of Southern France around Marseille, and then Northwards up through the Rhone Valley to the land the Egyptians had called “Hyperborea” (literally the Land beyond the Celts – Britain).

The Celts were (and some still are) “Druidic”, through their contact with Egyptian traders, and the by now long altered religious ideas held by them. This contact soon spread across the English Channel into Britain. Major Druidic religious centres soon developed in Britain, notably at Avebury, Glastonbury, and Stonehenge. These places will figure once again as this narrative progresses.

Having now established a possible connection with Eastern Mediterranean culture and ideas, we can now move forward in time to when Jesus appears to be missing from the scriptures from when he was around 12 years old, to his re-appearance in them, 18 years later, when he was 30.

Judea, at that time was under “Roman occupation”, and they didn’t take too kindly to anyone questioning their pantheon of Gods. It is often stated in various scriptures that Jesus had an amazing intellect, and would often be found in various temples in deep discussion with many religious teachers. It is felt that it was around this time that he began to question, perhaps a bit too strongly, the current establishment and its leading figures. Bear in mind that he was not a “modern” young teenager, but a product of his time.

Moses, it must be remembered, had earlier led the “Israelites” out of Egypt, and had also had to deal with the “Worship” of the Golden Calf, the result being a set of rules by which we all should abide, “The Ten Commandments”.

What seems to be being ignored in many instances is that “Cattle” are held in esteem in many religions, most of which have evolved from the early Sumerian influence into ancient Egypt and other Mediterranean cultures. In light of this it can also be assumed that many of the other religious ideals, which would have eventually influenced the young Jesus, would have also travelled out of Egypt with Moses and the Israelites, mainly a reverence for nature and a “Love” for all mankind.

St Enodocs Church

St Enodoc’s Church

We can now try and connect the parts into what is, hopefully, a relevant story. Pontius Pilate, the local Roman governor of Judea, was a very wealthy man by the days standards, and had “Interests and connections” with many of the Tin, Copper, Gold and Lead mines in Pre-occupation Britain. The earlier unsuccessful “Roman” invasion attempt by Julius Ceasar in 55 – 54 B.C. had resulted in many trading connections being made between the then continental Roman Empire and Britain, and Pontius Pilate had taken full advantage of them.

Joseph of Arimathea was also a very wealthy man, as well as being high up in the Jewish Sanhedrin, the local Jewish Governing body, and in charge of Trading and Mining interests alongside Pontius Pilate. He had also been made guardian of Jesus by virtue of being his uncle, Mary’s brother.

It therefore seems natural for him and Pontius Pilate to visit those interests and, given who they were, they would have both had large retinues with them. This would have all been well before the finally successful “Roman” invasion of Britain by Claudius, and the later expansion carried out by Vespasian in 43 A.D.

It is felt that Pontius Pilate tipped his friend and business partner, Joseph, off over Jesus’ growing adverse impact he was having in Judean religious circles, and advised the family to flee to Egypt. It would have been here, if he hadn’t already heard of it, that Jesus learnt of the far off land that had not only held off the supposedly invincible Roman Army 60 odd years earlier, but also that its peoples had very similar spiritual ideals and beliefs as his own.

What teenager could resist a visit to such a place, and this is where Dennis Price’s book “The Missing Years of Jesus” and his use of “Means, Motive and Opportunity” becomes so believable.

Means:- Yes, he certainly had the means to visit Britain. His uncle Joseph was well placed within the Judean regional government, had a close financial and personal contact with the local Roman Governor, “Pontius Pilate”, and was also part of the Roman controlling body in charge of mines and mineral extraction.

With this in mind, Joseph would have had access to shipping and transport to anywhere within the then known “Roman world”, and would have had firm contacts with traders beyond it. Jesus’ father, Joseph of Nazareth, had for some reason disappeared from mention in the scriptures, and had been assumed to have already have died.

Joseph of Arimathea, being Jesus’ uncle, would have therefore taken on a role as the young Jesus’ guardian, and thus it is only natural that he would have taken the 12 year old Jesus along with him on any visits to the many mines he had an interest in. Along with Jesus, he would also have taken a large retinue of Clerks, Slaves, and possibly even other family members, such as his sister Mary, Jesus’ mother, given his governmental status.

Given the involvement of “Pontius Pilate”, and the quite probably large retinue he also would have had with him, we can now see that this would certainly not have been a “small group on a weekend visit”, and the memory of it would certainly have passed into record of some sort, even if only as a set of “Legends and Myths”.

Motivation:- As has often been stated in the scriptures, Jesus, as a youngster, had an exceptional intellect and was often to be found in discussions with religious leaders and scholars in his local temples. Through these he would have undoubtedly heard of the stories of the Island peoples on the edge of the then known “Roman” world who had, 60 -70 odd years previously, successfully thwarted 2 invasion attempts by the supposedly “invincible” Roman Army.

There was already a “resistance movement” amongst the population of Judea to the occupying Roman Army, and the chance to “rebel” is a potent force for a young and very receptive mind. He would have understood that “military action” was a non-starter, but to alter the religious mind-set of the Romans pagan beliefs from within, and even that of the ruling Jewish “Pharisees” ? Now that would have been a different matter completely.

He would have heard of the “Druids” of that land and their similar “monotheistic” beliefs as those held by his own people. He would also have heard of “Stonehenge” and it’s design similarities with the “Labyrinth” under the Greek temple at Knossos.

He would have heard of the stories of the Minotaur, half man and half bull who lived in that Labyrinth, and would have been told of the “Bull” worship that had its origins in Greek and even earlier Egyptian religions. A reflection of this “Bull” worship can still be seen in the “Hindu” religion of India, and the reverence placed on all living things amongst “Buddhists”

The connection would then have been easily made, in his mind, when told of a similar belief in, and sacrifice of, “White Oxen” by the Druids at Stonehenge, along with their worship of the “natural world”. Many of our present religious celebrations have been developed from earlier Druid beliefs, and the stories of the “Green Man”, and the habit of “Touching wood” for good luck being with us to this day.!. What young lad, soon to become a teenager, could resist the chance of travelling to such a remote and mystical land, and to learn from, and be educated by, the people living there ?

Opportunity:- These must have been many, given his uncles status, but it would seem that the largest incentive would have been when Joseph was forced to flee with his family to “Egypt”. As this region was also under Roman control at the time, and so therefore also under local Judean overview, it was not a place of complete safety, even if their religious views were, by now, similar to his own.

It is more than likely that this was the spur leading to the family coming to Britain, for Joseph to be in close touch with his mining and trading interests, and for Jesus to study under, and to eventually live amongst, the similarly minded Druids at the great religious centres of Glastonbury and Avebury. The site of Stonehenge is only 30 miles to the east, a good days walk, and it is inconceivable that he did not visit the place and learn of its mysteries during his reputed 18 years living here.

The “Druids” were renowned for their skills at “Oratory and argument”, and their “priests” were known to have walked without fear between warring factions and to have calmed down serious situations, a skill that Jesus is often stated to have put to use in his later ministry.

This book by Dennis Price is, as stated before, a very compelling read and would go a long way in convincing one that Jesus did really spend his “Missing Years” here in Britain before returning to Judea with his ideas fully formed.

****

St Saviours Church, Polruan

St Saviours Church, Polruan

To the ruling religious leaders of Judea he would have been looked on as a major “trouble maker”, a certainly unwanted “voice of the people”, and they would have tried to minimise his influence as much as possible. His teachings in the 3 years after his return certainly did not sit well with them. Jesus finally forced their hand with his return to Jerusalem during “Passover” and his disruption of the temple money-lenders. He was arrested and sentenced to death.

Now the strange part of this is that the “normal” method of execution, for the perceived crimes he had carried out against the ruling classes and religious leaders, would have been “stoning to death”, a method reserved for petty criminals and women, and would probably have resulted in his lifetimes teachings, and manner of death, being completely forgotten about in a matter of days.

To really make his voice and teachings echo down the centuries to follow, he had to “Martyr” himself and to be killed by his own people in the most horrendous manner available,-“Crucifixion”. Jesus had chosen his place and moment well. Jerusalem during “Passover” was then, as it is still now, a place of considerable “tension”, and the occupying Romans had to take great care that these “tensions” did not escalate into major rioting.

This probably goes a long way in explaining why “Pontius Pilate” who, as outlined above, knew Jesus during his youth, and who more than likely still had mining and other business dealings with Jesus’ Uncle, “Joseph of Arimathea”, refused to take any part whatsoever in his conviction and subsequent execution and, basically, “washed his hands” of the whole affair.

This would therefore ensure Jesus’ terrible death at the hands of his own people, the memory of his killing being retained for centuries down to the present day, and the start of one of the worlds major religions.

Hopefully, one day, a proper “Forensic examination” of all existing subject matter will be undertaken but, until that takes place, and unlikely as that examination will be, given the power of censorship still wielded by the “Roman Catholic” church, we are stuck with what we have at present.

There are probably many other “Internet searches” and books available for research into this subject but, given the 2000 year time scale involved, much will now be obscured by Legend, Folklore, and Myth, as well as the obvious resistance in peoples minds to altering their whole historical perception. This is a very intriguing subject though, and it could occupy ones time in searching for years to come, even if it is doubtful that a definitive answer could ever be reached !!

****

My friend Peter would have loved to have been able to put this story into his own words, but sadly he was unable to. I hope therefore that my “precis” of the copious notes we had collected have done the job for him. Only he will now know whether there is any truth in all the Legends and Myths, or whether they will forever remain just that – “Legends and Myths”.

You, the reader, however, can form your own opinion as you follow in our footsteps, and those of the many thousands of “Pilgrims” who have journeyed along “The Saints Way”, and have been captured by the story and think to yourself – “I wonder” !!!

“R.I.P. Peter”.

David Page,
July 2015.

The Wreck of the Liberty at Pendeen Watch

Pendeen Watch on the rugged coast of Cornwall is a notorious graveyard for ships. For instance in the decade between 1890 and 1900 seven steamers were lost,one of them being the nearly new steamer, Busby, three stranded and twenty six poor sailors died. As a result of all this death and destruction Trinity House decided to build a lighthouse on the Pendeen headland and its light finally shone out in 1900. It was to be another decade before ships once again started to pile up on the rocks below Pendeen Watch, ships like the William Cory full of pit props which struck the Enys Rock spewing her pit props into the sea beating back the boats coming to rescue them.

A fantastic shot of Pendeen Watch sadly not my own. It just about tells you all you need to know about this coast.

A fantastic shot of Pendeen Watch sadly not my own. It just about tells you all you need to know about this coast.

Fog of course was the main reason for ships to come to grief at Pendeen, but during the First World War it was the German U-boats sinking vessels as they rounded Cape Cornwall or steered for the Longships. After the two Wars wrecks still continued to pile up, but the ship we are interested in is the Liberian tramp streamer Liberty, ex War Camel, Ex Cairndhu Ex Styrmion. She had the dubious distinction of being the first wreck at Pendeen Watch, since the St.Ives Lugger, Twin Boys struck the delightfully named Three Stone Oar in March 1924.

The William Cory, Sept 1910.

The William Cory, Sept 1910.
The almost new steamer Busby, June 1894.

The almost new steamer Busby, June 1894.

Launched by Palmers of Hebburn-on-Tyne in December 1918 as the War Camel she became the Cairndhu for the Cairns Line of Dundee. Her main beat was between St.Lawence, Leith, and Tyne with cargos of canned goods and wheat, returning often with china clay in ballast. In August 1927 she was laid up sold to a Greek line and renamed as the Styrmion. After the Second World War she was placed on the French North Africa run, and then transferred to Hoogli, Chittagong and Kararchi trade until 1951, when finally as the Liberty she gravitated to the Baltic, hauling iron ore. She had one or two mishaps along the way like stranding near Stockholm, but on the evening of 16 January 1952 the Liberty was leaving Newport in ballast for La Goulette. By the next evening she was off Pendeen Watch in the teeth of a north westerly gale pushing her bows through the violent snow squalls. As her elderly engines raced to keep her on track the steam pressure started to fall alarmingly, so Captain Filinos radioed for a tug and the lifeboat, but is was to be too late for the Liberty. As the tug Merchantman searched in vain for the stricken ship, the Liberty was dangerously wallowing broadside too, near Portheras Cove, right under the cliffs of Pendeen Watch.

The ill fated Liberty.

The ill fated Liberty.

The mate and the bosun escaped down a rope ladder and twenty others, including the Captain, were rescued by breeches buoy. Thirteen of the crew were so overwhelmed by the disaster that they hid on board the sinking ship until the evening, only coming out on deck, after they were furiously harangued by Captain Filinos with a mixture of Arabic and Greek. By now the LSA had turned up and they rescued these poor souls amidst much shouting and gesticulation from the Captain, other crew and the LSA.

The Walk Pendeen Light is well signposted from St Just and on arrival you can either stop at the top car park, or turn to your right to go down to the lower car. The grassy slope in front of the car park is where the L.S.A. (rocket brigade) launched the breeches buoy to rescue some of the crew, and it is here that you will find a track that will lead you down onto the rocks by most of the wreckage. Its not very steep, but since you want to be there at a spring low tide to see most of he wreckage, bear in mind that the tide will come back in quite quickly. Easily identifiable are the crankshaft, engine block and some of the larger pieces of the ships framing. On the sand of the cove is a half buried anchor and a bollard set amidst other iron work half buried in the sand. Right out in front of you is the wonderfully named Three Stone Oar reef and with a stiff onshore breeze, which we had, you can immediately see why so many ships have piled up around these rocks.

The track down to the cove.

The track down to the cove.
The wreckage to the left, mind the returning tide.

The wreckage to the left, mind the returning tide.
The main wreckage to the right of the cove.

The main wreckage to the right of the cove.
The main body of wreckage.

The main body of wreckage.
Part of the prop shaft.

Part of the prop shaft.
Anchor.

Anchor.
photos courtesy of ‘Dave’ Page

The Lighthouse is quite standard for this part of Cornwall and is unmanned, so not open to the public. Usually the gates are locked shut, but you can walk from the top car park along the enclosure wall down to where it all juts out over the cliff. There is a platform there that allows you very good views of the front of the lighthouse. One of its nice features is the huge pair of bats ear fog horns. Don’t be near these when they go off, as they are likely to give you a heart attack. They are beyond loud. Over to the right of the lighthouse you will see lots of mine chimneys dotted around the cliffs. If you are interested, there are plenty of tourist tours in the area, the closest being the Levant mine, with its working beam engine.

The Foghorns.

The Foghorns.
View of the front of the Light.

View of the front of the Light.

There are a few pubs near the Pendeen Light,but we decided to go back to St Just. Four pubs in the square, and a great pasty shop. All the pubs serve good food and we chose the Kings Arms at random. It sells ‘Tribute’ and ‘Proper Job’ amongst its beers and loads of good sandwiches and other food. If you want a complete alternative there is a ‘Fair trade’ cafe just up from the square. What’s not to like

name of ship/subject of story

Google Map showing The Lighthouse to the left of the cove where the wreckage is.

The lugger Victory

Set into the wall of the jetty at Margate is a marble tombstone to nine Margate men who lost their lives on the Lugger ‘Victory’ on January 5th 1857. The ‘Victory had been to the aid of the crew of the American sailing ship Northern Belle. The disaster prompted a silver medal to be struck and given to those involved in the rescue, by Franklin Pierce, the President of the United States of America.

Tombstone set into the jetty.

Tombstone set into the jetty.

So what happened on that fateful night so many years ago? The northern belle was en-route from New York to London when it encountered a fierce blizzard that drove it partially on to rocks off the coast of Kent. The twenty eight men on board set the anchor to stop the ship from completely foundering, said their prayers, and waited for rescue. In the early hours of the morning three luggers from Margate, Ocean, Eclipse and Victory arrived on site and soon Ocean managed to get five men on board the sailing ship to help with the salvage, and make sure that the ship did not go further up onto the shore. Unfortunately the weather was worsening all the time. The wind was now a screaming gale, mixed with hail sleet and snow. Soon the anchors dragged, and the Northern Belle found herself completely stuck on the rocks with the crew in a very perilous situation.

Northern Belle with the lifeboat,'Mary White'.

Northern Belle with the lifeboat,’Mary White’.

The Ocean closed the wreck and managed to take off five of the crew, but the Victory was completely swamped by the heavy seas and disappeared, drowning all nine of its crew. The Ocean and Eclipse could do no more, so the crew of the Northern Belle had to stay where they were for the night, lashed to the rigging of the only mast left standing. Because of the wind direction, the lifeboats at Broadstairs a few miles down the coast, could not be launched, so they were hitched up to teams of horses and dragged two miles over the hills to a place where they could be launched in daylight. When dawn broke the lifeboats, ‘Mary White’ and Culmer White managed to make three trips between them, taking off all of the Northern belles crew and the men that Ocean had put aboard. One of the lifeboat men, George Emptage, made three trips to the stricken vessel, in part to persuade the Captain to leave. He was all for going down with his ship, but was eventually talked out of it.

Crowds watching from the cliffs.

Crowds watching from the cliffs.

The whole rescue was watched by huge crowds from Margate and Broadstairs who gathered on the beach and cliff tops, some no doubt the relatives of the men lost on the Victory. When everybody was safely ashore, the Second mate was heard to declare that ‘none but Englishmen would have come to our rescue on such a night as this’.

Margate jetty.

Margate jetty.

The United States Consul in London launched an appeal to raise funds for the widows and more than 40 children of the nine men who had drowned when the lugger Victory was swamped. Each family received money plus a bible, with the cover embossed with the details of the disaster.

The medal presented by the President Pierce.

The medal presented by the President Pierce.
Comemorative Bible.

Comemorative Bible.

HMS Warspite.

It seems almost inconceivable now, but this short stretch of Cornish coast between Marazion and St Michaels Mount should have witnessed the death of one of the Royal Navy’s most famous battleships, H.M.S. Warspite, During her 32 years service she had endured bombing, shellfire, ramming, mines and a missile attack, and fought all over the world from Jutland in the Great War, to the Normandy Landings in the Second World War. Sailors often say that a ship embodies all their hopes, aspiration and experiences, and because of this, she becomes more than just an expression of sea power, or another collection of men, iron and steel. The Warspite was certainly much more than that, and became known to everyone who served on her as ‘The Grand Old Lady’.

Warspite in the Indian Ocean 1942.

Warspite in the Indian Ocean 1942.

Laid down in Devonport Dockyard Plymouth, in October 1915, she was launched into the River Tamar a year later. Her first Captain, Edward Phillpotts, took command when she commissioned in 1915. The Warspite was one of five Queen Elizabeth class Battleships which were built to combat the threat of new faster German battleships. She was 639 feet long, had a beam of over ninety feet with a draught of thirty feet six inches and a crew which varied in size from about 995 to 1200. Her initial armament consisted of eight 15inch guns in four twin turrets, fourteen single six inch guns, two single QF three inch anti aircraft guns, and four twenty one inch submerged torpedo tubes. When she was commissioned, she was one of the most powerful and flexible super dreadnoughts afloat.

HMS Warspite being launched in 1915

HMS Warspite being launched in 1915

In 1916, at the Battle of Jutland, the Warspite was attached to the 5th Battle Squadron under the overall command of Admiral Beatty. She managed to to score a direct hit on the German Battle Cruiser, Von der Tan, before a stray shell damaged her steering. By the time she was back to full readiness, the German High Seas Fleet had slipped away in the rain and mist. During the battle the Warspite was holed one hundred and fifty times and had fourteen of her crew killed, with another sixteen wounded. Although seriously damaged she was still afloat and was ordered back to Rosyth. On her way she was attacked by a German U boat which missed with all three torpedo’s. Shortly after this lucky escape, she was attacked again by another U boat, which she tried to ram. The submarine however, was too quick for her and managed to speed away undamaged. It must have been with a sigh of relief that the crew safely entered the port of Rosyth. The Warspite had a revenge of sorts, as at the end of the War, she was part of the force that escorted the surrendered High Seas Fleet into internment at Scapa Flow in 1918.

German Battle Cruiser,Von der Tan.

German Battle Cruiser,Von der Tan.
Warspite's damage.

Warspite’s damage.

From 1919 to 1939, she joined the 2nd battle Squadron as part of the newly formed Atlantic Fleet. During this time the Warspite regularly showed the Flag all over the Mediterranean reinforcing the Royal navy’s supremacy as the worlds foremost sea power. After being rammed by a Romanian passenger ship off Portugal she had some minor repairs, but it was between 1934 and 1937 that she underwent major reconstruction, giving the Royal navy a virtually new ship with much enhanced capabilities. As the Second World War unfolded, the Warspite was in the thick of it, taking a significant role in the two battles of Narvik where she destroyed the Z13 Erich Koellner with broadsides and severely damaged the Z17 Dieter von Roeder, together with the Z12 Erich Giese. Between 1940 and 1941 she became engaged in several major sea battles. In 1940 she took part in the battle of Calabria against the Italian Navy (Regina Marina). It was during this battle that the Warspite achieved the longest range gunnery hit on a moving target in history, when she damaged the Italian battleship Giulio Cesare at a range of 26 KM (26000yards).

The Italian Battleship, Giulio Cesare.

The Italian Battleship, Giulio Cesare.

In mid August of the same year, she was involved in the Battle of Taranto, where she was slightly damaged by a single bomb during Operation Excess. In March 1941 Admiral Cunningham took his fleet to sea against the Regina Marina on board his flagship H.M.S. Warspite. The Italian navy was supporting the German Invasion of the Balkans and had sailed to intercept Allied convoys between Egypt and Greece. Cunningham caught up with them near Cape Matapan and ordered airstrikes on the Italian Battleships to save his Cruisers from their heavier gunfire. Meanwhile Warspite, Barham, and Valient closed on the heavy cruisers Fiume and Zara and destroyed them and two destroyers at point blank range. This battle destroyed the Regina Marina’s moral, and allowed the British to tighten their grip on the Mediterranean just in time for the German invasion of Crete. Here she was used as a floating anti aircraft battery, until a 500 pound bomb dropped by Oberleutenant Kurt Ubben damaged her four and six inch gun batteries, ripped open her side and killed thirty eight of the crew. The damage was too severe to be repaired at Alexandria so the Warspite was sent to Bremerton on the West Coast of the United States of America.

The Italian Cruiser Fiume.

The Italian Cruiser Fiume.

After her refit in 1942 the Warspite joined the Eastern Fleet, as the Flagship of Admiral Sir James Somerville, who had commanded her in 1927. Although she was involved in various operations in the Far East against the Japanese Navy, her role was largely uneventful, and she returned to England in 1943 in time for the Allied invasions of Sicily and Italy, taking part in Operation Husky and covering the landings at Salerno. Although the Germans fought fiercely, the Italians had had enough, and on the 3rd of September signed an Armistice. Anxious to ensure that the Germans did not annex the Italian Fleet of two hundred warships, the Allies insisted that they sail for Allied ports. Later the Warspite met, and led elements of the Fleet into Malta for internment. On the 11 September, Warspite and Valiant were detached to provide support to the Allied forces at Salerno. Although the Italians had surrendered, the Germans were still determined to stop the Allied advance. Overnight the Fleet came under intense air attack, and later, three Dornier Bombers, attacked the Warspite with an early type of guided missile. This struck near the funnel, cutting through the decks, and making a twenty foot hole in the bottom of her hull. Nine of her crew were killed and fourteen were injured, but the Warspite was crippled. Escorted by elements of the Allied Fleet, and towed by tugs from the U.S.Navy, the Warspite was eventually safely docked in Malta for emergency repairs, before being towed to Gibraltar for more substantial repairs. She finally arrived back in England in March 1944 and went to Rosyth to complete her repairs.

Warspite entering Malta in 1932.

Warspite entering Malta in 1932.

At Rosyth, Warspite’s six inch guns were removed and a giant caisson covered the hole left by the German missile. One of the boiler rooms could not be repaired, but she had to be made ready as the main event of the War was about to begin. Every man and ship was needed for Operation Overlord, D.Day, The invasion of Europe. At 0500 H.M.S. Warspite was the first ship to open fire, bombarding the German Battery at Villerville to support the British landings at Sword Beach. After firing three hundred shells, she went back to Portsmouth to reload, and returned on 9th June to support American Forces at Utah Beach. Then on 11th June she took up position on Gold Beach to support the British 69th Infantry Brigade. By now having fired so many shells continuously the gun barrels were worn out, so she was ordered back to Rosyth, where she hit a mine twenty eight miles off Harwich, early on 13th June. Repairs to her propeller shafts took until early August when she sailed to Scapa Flow to recalibrate her armament. Used now as a floating gun battery she was sent to Ushant in time for the Battle for Brest. She shelled the towns of Le Conquet and Pointe Sainte-Mathieu before moving to the Scheld Estuary with the Monitors Erebus and Roberts. Here she cleared out the German strongholds and gun emplacements before bombarding targets on Walcheron Island. The next day she left for Deal, never to fire her guns again.

Warspite firing her guns at the Normandy Beaches.

Warspite firing her guns at the Normandy Beaches.

Although the War still raged, the Warspite’s part in it had ended. Time and the enemy had taken it’s toll, and newer, more modern ships were needed to continue the War in the Far East. Although there were proposals to keep her as a museum, the Admiralty finally approved her scrapping in July 1946 and she sailed from Spithead to Portsmouth to have her guns removed.

Towed away to have her guns removed.

Towed away to have her guns removed.

On a grey day in April 1947, the Warspite embarked on her last voyage from Portsmouth to Faslane on the River Clyde for scrapping. On the way she ran into a fierce storm, broke her tows and ended up on Mount Mopus Ledge near Cudden Point. On the next high tide she re floated herself, only to go hard aground a few yards away in Prussia Cove. The Skeleton crew of seven were all saved by the Penlee Lifeboat, but for the Warspite there was to be no reprieve. There were several attempts to re float her, but she was by now too badly damaged.

Hard aground in Prussia Cove.

Hard aground in Prussia Cove.

In 1950 a final attempt was made to re float her using two tugs and twenty four compressors to pump air into her hull. Watched by a large crowd the tugs were unable to tow her. One ended up on the rocks and the other got a hawser wrapped around her prop. By now it was obvious that the Warspite would never be taken to the Clyde for scrapping so it was decided to cut her up where she lay. For ease of access they manage to move her the short distance to a beach alongside St. Michael’s Mount. Over the next five years she was chopped up, until she disappeared from view.

H.M.S. Warspite's final resting place alongside St. Michael's Mount.

H.M.S. Warspite’s final resting place alongside St. Michael’s Mount.

The Walk Really this walk has two parts, and you don’t have to do then concurrently, but the distances are a bit long between the two areas, so nipping between the two by car is probably best as you can spend quite a bit of time at each, if the sun is shining. To give you an idea of where everything is have a look at this superb photo below. I did not take it unfortunately, I wish I had, and I don’t know who did, but it puts Prussia Cove, seen here in the forfront, and St. Michaels Mount in context.

What a stunning photo.

What a stunning photo.

Prussia Cove is a prime example of what the Cornish coast is all about, and why so many visitors come. It hasn’t changed much in years, and was once the home of the notorious smuggling, Carter family. One of then was known as the King of Prussia, and there are pubs dotted around named ater him, most notably the one on the waterfront at Fowey. There is car parking and toilets at the top and acces to the cove is by a steepish track. Takes about five mins to walk down and although there is no lifeguard, there is some life saving equipiment, so get in and have a lovely swim. There also is another momento of the Warspite at the top in the shape of a wooded spar from the ship stuck upright on the top.

Prussia Cove today.

Prussia Cove today.
Prussia Cove with the Warspite.

Prussia Cove with the Warspite.

Marazion is a small place but extremely picturesque, mainly because of the looming presence of St. Michael’s Mount, just a few hundred yards offshore. The town has plenty of galleries and craft shops to poke about in, and you can catch the ferry to the island from near the Goldolphin Hotel when the tide is in. Otherwise you can walk across the tidal causeway to the island, which is always something of a thrill. The island is run by the National Trust and it is well worth a visit to get to see the castle at the top. Also, from here you will get a panoramic view of where the Warspite was finally cut up.

The superb view from the Goldolphin Hotel.

The superb view from the Goldolphin Hotel.

Another reminder of those days is a memorial stone to H.M.S. Warspite on the coast path near the end of the causeway on the mainland.

The memorial stone near the end of the causeway.

The memorial stone near the end of the causeway.

There are plenty of places to eat and drink in Marazion, but two of my favourites are the Goldolphin Hotel which besides serving Doombar beer (my favourite), and great meals, has a stunning view of St. Michael’s Mount.

The Kings Arms.

The Kings Arms.

Another great pub is the Kings Arms, right in the middle of the town. Again the pub serves tasty meals and has Proper Job and Tribute beer. Between the two establishments you will be able to sample the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Cornish beer. Enjoy.

The Wreck of the Conqueror

The Conqueror is the ship that started it all for me. I had always been interested in shipwrecks, and had already dived on many. But until the Conqueror, I had not really thought about documenting them. In the 70’s and 80’s, Devon and Cornwall seemed to attract an abnormal amount of shipwrecks, and I spent many happy hours climbing precariously down cliffs and scrambling over rocks to examine them.
The Conqueror was the first of these wrecks, stranded on the rocks off Penzer Point near Mousehole.

The Conqueror.

The Conqueror.

The Conqueror was a modern freezer trawler built by Hall, Russel & Co Ltd in Aberdeen1965, for the Northern Trawlers Company. By 1977 she had undergone a major refit to extend her freezer capacity, and left her home port of Hull to go mackerel fishing in Cornwall. On the 26 December 1977 she was off Penzer Point with 250 tons of mackerel on board when she ran into bad weather, and ran aground on the rocks nearby, in the darkness of the early morning. None of her 27 crew were hurt or injured and it was something of a mystery why the wrecking took place, as although the winds were blowing force eight, the sea was relatively calm. In any event the Penlee lifeboat was called and swiftly took of most of the crew to nearby Newlyn, leaving the skipper, Charles Thresh, and three others on board to see if they could help refloat her. By now the engineering steering flat and the tunnel to the engine room was full of water, with the stern firmly aground on the rocks.

Hard aground off Penzer Point.

Hard aground off Penzer Point.

The Trinity House vessel Stella, and the trawlers Farnella and Junella stood by the stricken vessel until the salvage tug Biscay Sky turned up with some huge water pumps. Meanwhile the skipper and his mates had tried to patch some of the worst holes and got the pumps working. The salvage team continued the hard work, and were within a couple of days of being ready to pull her off, when the weather turned nasty again. A sudden gale blew up, and left the Conqueror with a 45 degree list, and submerged from the stern to midships. On the 21 January 1978 the salvage divers reported that she was now too badly holed to get off, so they packed up their gear and the Conqueror was abandoned to the sea.

They had already removed some of the engine.

They had already removed some of the engine.

It was a few days after she had been abandoned that I went to see her for myself. If you look closely at the photos, you will see a rope ladder hanging from the bow. I scrambled up that with my mate, and together we made our way towards part of the engine room. Although the stern was firmly grounded it was still twisting in the waves, and as the tide set in the waves bounced off the stern plates with a noise like a gong. The water right at the stern was pulsing up towards us with every new wave and the deck was slippery with oil. With the whole ship canted over on her starboard side, it was hard to keep our footing. All thought of getting a souvenir disappeared as the water got closer to us. The stern seemed to be twisting even more, and the banging got louder. We slipped and slid back to the rope ladder and thankfully climbed down to the safety of the rocks.

This was taken about five years after she stranded.

This was taken about five years after she stranded.

The Conqueror stayed stuck on the rocks for some years before she finally slipped beneath the waves. She became something of a local tourist attraction, so much so, that in the early days the Police had to re- route traffic around Mousehole as it was getting completely grid locked.

What a sorry end to a fine ship.

What a sorry end to a fine ship.

I finally got to dive the wreck in August 1990, so anything I say here will be ancient history. Parts of it must have been quite shallow, as my Logbook states that there was quite a lot of kelp on her, and that she was quite broken up, but in big pieces, and lots of them, with a few nets wrapped around the crane areas. The wreck is lying more or less upright, and the deepest part is in about 20 meters. Vis was about 20 feet, so for the photographer it will be quite interesting.

Cyprus Shipwreck Trail

Within easy reach of Paphos are two shipwrecks. The first is on the road out towards Coral Bay at a hotel called the Capital Coast. You cant miss it, and there is plenty of room to park off road. At first sight you might think that it is just another ship anchored in the Bay. However, it is in fact stuck upright on a low reef, that just shows above the waves. The ship is called the Demetrios 11 and was a cargo ship, built in 1964 by J. J. Sietas, at their shipbuilding yard in Hamburg-Neuenfelde, Germany. The Honduran-flagged M/V Demetrios II ran aground off Paphos Lighthouse on 23 March 1998 in heavy seas, during a voyage from Greece to Syria with a cargo of timber.

The Demetrios,easily seen from many places on the road to Coral bay.

The Demetrios,easily seen from many places on the road to Coral bay.

At the time of the accident, the ship had eight crew members, 4 Greeks, 2 Pakistanis and 2 Syrians. The crew were rescued and airlifted to the safety of Paphos by a British Military Helicopter. In the investigation that followed it was found that the Greek Captain and the Pakistani First officer were operating with forged competency certificates. It was considered to expensive to drag the ship off the reef and so it has been left to break up, but astonishingly it has survived many storms and a small earthquake and is still stuck fast sixteen years later.(I saw it in 2014) The map starts at the Bus station, but anywhere along the front will do.

A plan was proposed to drag the wreck off the reef and sink it as an attraction for divers, but the authorities concluded that it was in too bad a state and might well disintegrate and end up on the beach. So there she sits waiting for her end.

Here you can see the reef she is stuck on.

Here you can see the reef she is stuck on.

Although she is some way offshore you can take good photos of her with any half decent camera, and if you are really keen for a close up, you can get a boat trip around her from Phaphos harbour. The second shipwreck, the Edro 111, is a few miles along the same road towards Peyia and the beautiful Sea Caves area. This wreck is right on the shore and at first glance from the road above, it looks as if it is at the bottom of someone’s garden, and it almost is.

The Edro 111, almost at the bottom of this Villa's garden.

The Edro 111, almost at the bottom of this Villa’s garden.

To get down to the shipwreck you have to get off the main road and go down Sea Caves Avenue. This unsurprisingly takes you past the Sea Caves hollowed out of the cliffs. The water here is gin clear and azure blue and I found the whole area very atmospheric. (again you can get a boat trip for a closer inspection) The road weaves its way down through fields of banana plantations, with villas dotted around, covered in brilliantly coloured bougainvillea, towards the shore where the Edro 111 lies hard up against the rocks. So how did she manage to fetch up there? The Edro 111, of 2517 tons, is eighty three meters long and was on a voyage from Limasol to Rhodes carrying a cargo of plasterboard. She left on 7 December 2011 in bad weather and soon the strong winds and heavy seas caused the vessel to drift off course. About ten miles from Paphos, she struck a rock and became disabled, drifting at the mercy of the storm until she finally went ashore near Peyia about 5 o clock on the morning of 8th December.

You can easily view this wreck from all angles.

You can easily view this wreck from all angles.
You can easily view this wreck from all angles.

You can easily view this wreck from all angles.
You can easily view this wreck from all angles.

You can easily view this wreck from all angles.
You can easily view this wreck from all angles.

You can easily view this wreck from all angles.

A helicopter of the British Army stationed in Limassol, winched seven of the nine crew members of the ship up. They were brought ashore where they were given precautionary medical check-ups. The captain and the chief engineer remained on board. The crew comprised seven Albanians and two Egyptians. The Edro III was built in 1966 by Kaldnes Mekaniske Verksted at Tonsberg in Norway, and at the time of the accident was registered at Freetown in Sierra Leone. Although it is not clear how they will get the ship off the rocks (they don’t have our tide range) the plan is still to refloat and repair her.

The atmospheric Sea Caves.

The atmospheric Sea Caves.
The great beach at Agios Georgios.

The great beach at Agios Georgios.

By this time you will probably be ready for a drink and a swim, so I recommend that you get back on the main road and continue up to Agios Georgios a couple of miles away. This has a great monastery, a fabulous sandy beach, with beautiful clear water to swim in, with a small beach café. It also has free parking. Enjoy. If you zoom the bit of the map with the red mark, you can see the Edro111

Wreck of Romanie at Polridmouth Bay

Cornwall has so many wrecks that you can literally trip over them, and that’s just what I did with the wreck of the Romanie whilst I was on a walk out to the Daymark on Gribben head. I had often seen the Daymark from the sea as I pottered around Fowey in my boat, and so decided to struggle up to the top of Gribben Head to see it properly.

Gribben Head

Gribben Head

The walk of about two miles, started in the car park near Menabilly farm. This is provided by the farmer, and as you make your way along the footpath down to Polridmouth Bay, you come across his farm with a milk churn on the path for you to pay the 50p parking fee. The path is well signed and easy walking down to the bay, with lots of sheep and cows in the adjacent fields, and masses of primroses in the grassy walls lining the path. (I was there in the early spring) When I got to Polridmouth bay, locally pronounced Pridmouth, I saw that the path led off to the right for Gribben Head, so I wandered down to the beach to have a look around. Over to the right of the bay I saw some strangely shaped rocks, and when I looked at them through the tele-photo lens of my camera, I saw that they were not rocks at all, but the twisted metal of a shipwreck. I was delighted. A walk is all very well, but a shipwreck is far more interesting, especially one with an unusual connection.

Wreckage.

Wreckage.

This part of Cornwall is Du Maurier country, because Daphne du Maurier, the world famous author, lived here for many years, and used the county as a backdrop for most of her books. One of her most famous books is ‘Rebecca’ written in 1938. Years ago when Du Maurier had first visited Fowey, she had walked across to Pridmouth bay and seen a wrecked boat on the beach. Years later she made that beach the setting for Rebecca’s murder and the wreck of her boat.

Rebecca

Rebecca

So what was the boat, and how did it come to be wrecked on the beach?

Wreckage on the beach.

Wreckage on the beach.

The wreck was called the Romanie and she was a steel three masted sailing vessel with an auxillary engine. Built in 1918 in Holland, she was originally called the Ymuiden. She was just over a hundred feet long, and around 260 tons. On January 16th 1930 she was on a voyage from Fowey to Par in ballast. Caught out by a sudden storm, she lost power and was flung up on the rocks a Polridmouth bay. Her Captain, H.Tielemans and all of his crew managed to get off the boat and safely to shore. There was no point in trying to salvage her, so she was left to go to pieces.

Gribben Head

Gribben Head

After the excitement of finding the wreck, it was time to wend my way up the path towards the Daymark on Gribben Head. It’s a bit of a climb, but the views out across the sea, especially towards the Dodman are spectacular and well worth the effort. The daymark is a sort of castelated Greco Gothic square tower which was erected in 1832, enabling seafarers to easily find the entrance to Fowey harbour.However it is not the first beacon to be on the site. Iron Age people and medieval farmers used it as a lookout point and in Elizabethan times Gribben Head was one of the chain of beacon sites, which in 1588, helped carry the news to London of the approaching Spanish Armarda.

Inscription

Inscription

Just north west of the daymark are the remains of an old signal station, one of many established along the south coast to bring warning of a possible French invasion. During daytime, signals were relayed with flags and balls, and at night they used lights and fires.

Old Signal Station.

Old Signal Station.

During the Second World War, Polridmouth bay was used as a decoy site with lights placed around a large ornamental lake to the left of the bay. The object of this was to lure ennemy bombers away from Falmouth Harbour, particularly during the build up to the D.Day landings, when over 2000 American troops were stationed in and around the town. The tower is painted every seven years, and on selected sundays you can climb to the top. Good luck to you. (see National Trust)

The Tower.

The Tower.

Once you are back at the car park you will be in need of a drink and something to eat, and you can get all that at nearby Polkerris. The Pub is called the Rashleigh Arms and serves excellent food andale, and some rather nice wine as well. You can have everything from pasty and chips to sea bass with blushed tomatoes, or a selection of sanwiches, so you are in for a treat.

The beach at Polkerris is great for kids with lots of sand and an ancient jetty studded with old cannons.

The beach at Polkerris is great for kids with lots of sand and an ancient jetty studded with old cannons.
Old Cannons.

Old Cannons.
Map.

Map.

The Wreck of the Bellem at Northcot Mouth

The great cliffs north of Bude seem to attract shipwrecks, and in the old days the cliftops were dotted with iron stanchions and cables remaining from previous salvage work. The Bellem, a 1925 ton Potugese ship was originally launched in Flensburg, Germany, as the Rhodos for the Hamburg America line, but was seized by the Allies in Lisbon in 1916.

The wreck of the Bellem.

The wreck of the Bellem.

On 20th November 1917 she was on a voyage from Gibralter to Barry in ballast when she grounded in dense fog at Northcot Mouth, only a mile from Bude breakwater. By chance she had foundered close to where the London Collier Woodbridge had spent April 1915 high and dry before being floated off. The Bellem was not to be so lucky. 33 men, including two Royal Navy gunners,the Bellem was armed with a stern gun, were taken off by breeches buoy. The Bellem soon broke her back and was declared a total loss, being later broken up for scrap.

Bellem wreckage.

Bellem wreckage.

Another casualty was the trawler Scotia, which stranded in in a May fog in 1917, at near by Menachurch point, which the skipper had somehow mistaken for Rame head.

Woodbridge

Woodbridge
Scotia

Scotia

The Walk Today you can easily see the boiler and some plating of the Bellem, from the cliffs at low tide. If you want to get closer, you will have to climb over the pebble beach, across the rocks and down to the sand at spring low tides, and hike it around the point. I did not do this as the tide was coming in and I could see all I wanted from the cliff top. There is a handy seat right above the spot, so you can’t really miss it.

Looking south, seat on top of Menachurch Point.

Looking south, seat on top of Menachurch Point.

There is a set of steps going up the cliff to give easy access and the large pebble beach in that area is scattered with old triagular concrete tank traps. There are some wonderfull views along the cliffs, and you can easily see the large dishes of GCHQ to the north, busy hoovering up our emails and telephone messages, so mind what you say.

Path up to Menachurch Point.

Path up to Menachurch Point.

In the 1980’s some local people recovered the ships prop shaft and supposedly donated it to the Bude Museum. Others however,say that the shaft was used to suport the barrel on the rock at the end of the breakwater.

Old concrete tank trap.

Old concrete tank trap.

Northcot Mouth is well signed, and the car park is right near the beach, so you can see the cliff steps from its entrance.

The Wreck of the SV. Carl at Booby’s Bay

The violent storms that have lashed Britain’s coastline this winter have caused untold damage and misery. But for those of us that like old shipwrecks, there has been an unintended silver lining as a long forgotten shipwrecks has been exposed on the North Cornish coast, at Booby’s Bay, near Padstow.

The ill fated SV. Carl.Courtesy Daily Mail.

The ill fated SV. Carl.Courtesy Daily Mail.

Locals say, that in the recent storms, over a metre of sand has been washed off the beach, leaving exposed the metal ribs of the Sailing Vessel Carl, At the outbreak of the First War in 1914, the Sailing vessel Carl, launched in 1893 by Ribson & Co of Maryport, and registered in Hamburg, found herself in Cardiff docks where she was impounded after being surprised at sea and suspected of being an enemy minelayer.

You just trip over the wreckage.

You just trip over the wreckage.

Three years later on October 7 1917, the Carl was being towed to London to be broken up for scrap, when she broke free in the storm. In a letter to the Padstow Echo in 1966, Lieutenant Commander Langford of the Royal Navy, recalled his mother’s eyewitness account of the Carl’s demise. ‘The Carl went aground on the outer reef,’ he wrote. ‘Two Admiralty tugs came from Devonport to try to refloat her. The tugs managed to pull the vessel off the reef but in doing so broke both of their towing hawsers. Completely out of control and pushed by the storm the Carl ended up on the inner reef which was only yards from the shore. She was examined by salvage experts who found no real damage, so the tugs had another go, and once more broke both their towing cables. The Carl however, broke her back in the rolling waves, and was declared a total loss.

It won't be long before it all disappears.

It won’t be long before it all disappears.

Everything of any use was stripped from the vessel, and she was left to rot on the beach, where over the years, she became buried under the sand. For 97 years she lay forgotten, until this years (2014) storms

The masts are steel.

The masts are steel.

The Walk. Well its not much of one because the car park is within half a mile of the beach, and you can park much closer if you drive down the road by the side of the golf course. When you get to the beach, you just clamber down a few rocks and trip over the wreckage. There is a lot of it, so you just can’t go wrong. On a sunny day the beach is fabulous, so if you have kids, take them along, because they will love the rock pools when they get fed up with the wreck.

Steel mast.

Steel mast.
The fabulous bay.

The fabulous bay.
The anchor.

The anchor.
You can still see the wood deck planks.

You can still see the wood deck planks.

Wreck of the Secil Japan at Hell’s Mouth

The Secil Japan was a cargo ship of 2625 gross tonnage, nearly 300ft long with a beam of about 50 ft. Built by Iami Seisakysho Kamijima, she was launched in 1982. On the 12th of March 1989, the Secil Japan was enroute from Aveiro to Liverpool when her steering collapsed of the North Cornish Coast. As darkness fell, battered by huge waves and 55knot winds, the Secil Japan was pushed ever closer to the Cornish cliffs and finally ended up wedged in the apropriately named Hell’s Mouth, between Portreath and Hayle.

The Secil Japan a few days after.

The Secil Japan a few days after.

Helicopters had already been scrambled from RNAS. Couldrose, and RAF. Brady in South Wales, with the Coastguard on the cliffs co-ordinating operations. Around midnight the rescue helicopters arrived over the wreck to be met by a fearsome sight in their brilliant searchlights. The huge waves were banging into the stricken ship and then bouncing off the cliffs creating 150 ft sheets of spray.

The bows of the Secil Japan.

The bows of the Secil Japan.

On board the ship the 16 Korean crewmen were frantic, and as the ship started to break up, they retreated to the bridge, huddling together for warmth and comfort. With one helicopter standing watch, the rescue helicoptor from RAF. Brawdy lowered a winchman, Flight Sergeant Dodsworth into the breaking waves. After being swamped several times and knocked off his feet, Dodsworth managed to make his way to the bridge where he coaxed the crewmen, one by one, into the winch strop. 15 men were lifted off safely, but one fell out of the strop and perished in the furious sea.

The wreck split apart.

The wreck split apart.

The crews of both aircraft were presented with the Edward and Masie Lewis award by the Shipwrecked Mariners Society for a most outstanding airsea rescue. Flight Sergeant Dodsworth also received the Air Force Medal for his outstanding bravery. The Walk. To get to Hell’s Mouth drive from either Hayle or Portreath on the B3301. You will find the spendidly named Hell’s Mouth Cafe situated about mid way between the two. You can’t miss it, and it has a carpark.

Part of the stern.

Part of the stern.

Just across the road you will find the South West Coastal Path. You can walk miles along this in any direction you want, seeing some very spectacular scenery. However the bit we want is just a few hundred yards away to the right of the carpark. Hell’s Mouth is stunning, and at low tide it is easy to see what is left of the Secil Japans wreckage. If you are lucky, you will also see some seals on the rocks below.

More wreckage.Photos by Dave Page

More wreckage.Photos by Dave Page
A seal. Photos by Dave Page

A seal.Photos by Dave Page

I hate to do a bit of ‘elf and safety, but these cliffs are terribly unstable, and whole chunks have slid into the sea in recent times, due to all the bad weather we have been having. The National Trust, who maintain the path, have roped quite a lot off, but provided diversions so that you can still see the wreck and the seals. If you don’t believe me, have a look at the video.

There is no pub nearby, you will have to go to Portreath, but the cafe is great, serving good food at reasonable prices. Give it a go.

Hell's Mouth cafe.

Hell’s Mouth cafe.
Map of the area.

Map of the area.

Capt.Ernest George William Davidson and the Otranto

It is quite rare for a person to have two graves, but Capt.E.G.W.Davidson was such a man, with a memorial in Thurlestone Churchyard in Devon, and his actual grave in Islay.

The grave in Thurlestone.

The grave in Thurlestone.

I am extremely gratefull to Nick Hide, Captain Davidson’s Grandson, for the information and most of the photos below. Ernest George William Davidson was born in 1874 at Rangoon, British Burma. His father was a senior Colonial Police Officer who had served for a brief period in the Rifle Brigade on a purchased commission in the 1860s The Family were descendants of one of the junior lines of the extensive Davidson of Tulloch family, the chiefly family of the Clan Davidson. This Davidson family can be traced back to Cromarty, on the coast of Eastern Scotland in the 1650s. Later they became v. successful London West India Merchants., & purchased Tulloch Castle, Dingwall in 1760.

EGW.Davidson as a Midshipman.

EGW.Davidson as a Midshipman.

By the time EGWD is born, this mercantile heritage & wealth had virtually all gone but the family still had an extraordinary status. EGWD’s uncle was Sir Arthur Davidson, a Royal Equerry from 1891-1922. Ironically, EGWD never wanted to join the RN but had no choice, joining in 1889 as cadet as 14 year old.

EGW.Davidson's wedding day.

EGW.Davidson’s wedding day.

The wrecking of the Otranto The Otranto was an unlucky ship from the day she launched, or rather wasn’t. It took two goes to get her down the slipway at Belfast’s Workman Clark shipyard, once on the 23 March 1909 and then successfully on 27 March, being finally delivered to her owners, the Orient Steam navigation Company, in June of that year. Although she was intended for the London – Australia run as a passenger and mail carrier, she spent the summer of 1909 cruising in Northern European waters and finally left London on her maiden voyage to Australia on 1 October 1909. Here she had some success and was back in England in time to take part in the King George V’s Coronation Naval Review on 26 June 1911.

Otranto in happy times.

Otranto in happy times.

One week after Great Britain declared war on Germany in August 1914 the Otranto was requisitioned by the Admiralty for conversion to an auxiliary cruiser, having six 4.6 in (120 mm) guns fitted. She was sent to the South Atlantic to join Rear Admiral Sir Christopher Cradock’s West Indies squadron. It was this squadron that was subsequently diverted to the South-East Pacific to intercept the German Far East squadron under Vice Admiral Maximilian von Spee, which was attempting to make for Germany after the loss of its base in Tsingtao, China, to a joint Japanese-British force. It was Otranto which spotted the German squadron on 1 November 1914 off the Chilean coast. The subsequent battle, known as the Battle of Coronel, was a victory for the German squadron, but Otranto managed to escape along with the light cruiser Glasgow. Following the battle, Otranto was ordered to the Falkland Islands to act as a guard ship, but returned to the England in March 1915 after her ex-Merchant Navy crew threatened to mutiny. By May 1915, Otranto was in the Pacific patrolling the West Coast of America Otranto. She continued this task until recalled back to Britain, where in June 1918, she became an armed troopship employed in ferrying American soldiers to the Western Front in Europe.

EGW.Davidson wearing the uniform of a Commander RN.

EGW.Davidson wearing the uniform of a Commander RN.

Only six weeks before the Armistice and the end of the Great War, the Otranto was part of convoy HX50, bound for Glasgow and Liverpool, bringing with it 20,000 U.S servicemen and commanded by Captain Ernest George William Davidson. One of the soldiers wrote “Our trip was uneventful until the night of the 1st October when we collided with a French fishing schooner. We did not suffer any damages, but the schooner was sent to the bottom. There was no loss of life, as we picked up all of the crew, of thirty-six French sailors. We were delayed four or five hours.” On 5 October the American escort ships handed over to two British warships (HMS Mounsey and HMS Minos) off the west coast of Ireland and the convoy began the final leg between the North East coast of Ireland and the Western Isles of Scotland. By now the weather had turned nasty with the wind whipping up huge seas and the convoy having to make their own way in the deteriorating visibility.

Otranto becomes a wartime Trooper.

Otranto becomes a wartime Trooper.

It was then that disaster struck. On 6 October 1918 the Otranto collided with HMS Kashmir, another liner turned troopship. The subsequent court of enquiry, found that land was sighted so close to the ships that they needed to take immediate action, but because of the very high wave height and flying spray they were unable to visually signal their intentions. Otranto thought it had seen Ireland and turned sharply to port, while Kashmir correctly thought the land was Islay and turned sharply to Starboard – with the result that they collided! Kashmir was virtually undamaged and made it safely back to port, but the Otranto was badly holed on the port side forward, and in the heavy swell, began to list. Captain Davidson, nursed the ship towards Islay, but the water soon swamped the engine room, and so with the rugged cliffs of Islay so near, there was nothing for it but to anchor and hope for the best.

Capt. Davidson in his cabin.

Capt. Davidson in his cabin.

Help came in the form of the destroyer HMS Mounsey, commanded by Lt Craven. He circled the stricken liner while Captain Davidson ordered many of the men to strip off their heavy clothes and be ready to jump as the Mounsey crept in towards them. The American soldiers lined the boat deck waiting patiently for rescue, and as the destroyer came near enough, they jumped for their lives. With huge wave sweeping over the foundering ship, many fell between the two ships and were washed away, but many more made it to safety. Four times the Mounsey came in, and altogether rescued almost six hundred men. By then the Otranto had dragged her anchors and was starting to drift towards the rocks. HMS. Mounsey, in danger of swamping herself with her huge cargo of troops, left for Belfast. There was nothing more she could do. When the Mounsey arrived in Belfast, many of the survivors were hospitalised there, until eventual transfer to England. Probably none of the survivors saw action in the Great War, as it ended soon afterwards on 11 November 1918.

The troopship, Kashmir.

The troopship, Kashmir.

The Otranto was now in a very bad way. She had grounded on the shore near Machir Bay, and with the heavy seas pounding her continually against the rocks, the ship eventually started to break up, and soon sank with the loss of 431 lives (351 American troops and 80 British crew members). Captain Davidson perished with his ship, and was last seen on deck,still valiantly trying to organize some sort of evacuation for the soldiers and crew left on board. During the followwing days, bodies were washed up all over Machir Bay, including that of Capt. E.G.W. Davidson.

Captain Davidsons grave at Islay.

Captain Davidsons grave at Islay.
Machir Bay.

Machir Bay.
The official recording of Finding Capt. Davidsons body.

The official recording of Finding Capt. Davidsons body.
Chart showing the wreck of the Otranto.

Chart showing the wreck of the Otranto.

Titanic Museum-Belfast

Museums to me are often or not dull affairs to which I am forced to go to find the information or artefact I require for my research. The Titanic museum in Belfast is a very great exception to that rule. After all this time, and after all the books and films, we should know all there is to know, or want to know, about the Titanic. But the Belfast Museum turns the whole thing on its head and tells the story of the ill-fated Titanic from the point of view of the people who built it, launched it, and then had to deal with the aftermath. The Museum is located in the Titanic Quarter of Belfast, where the old Harland and Woolfe shipyard was. It hasn’t all been developed yet, but you can still see the huge graving dock where Titanic was built, and the Pump rooms that filled it.

The Titanic Museum/

The Titanic Museum/
The Titanic Museum

The Titanic Museum

The building is absolutely stunning (no exaggeration) being shaped in the form of four bows of a ship representing the four ages of shipbuilding in Belfast – Wood, Iron, Steel and Aluminium. It also mirrors the massive Arrol Gantry where Olympic and Titanic were built side by side. The museum stands in the old dockyard right near the graving dock that was used to build her. When I visited, (2013) it was in the teeth of a howling snow blizzard, with the taxi driver making bad jokes about the whereabouts of icebergs.

Titanic prior to launch.

Titanic prior to launch.

Inside the museum is on six floors with a cinema showing video from the sunken Titanic. This is not the usual material that we are all familiar with but new footage showing the ROV’s at work. Most poignant for me was the placing of several memorial plaques from relatives on the wreck. There is also one of the ROV’s in the cinema for you to have a look at.

One of the ROV's used to take film of the wreck.

One of the ROV’s used to take film of the wreck.

Instead of just having a lot of artifacts (although they have quite a few) the museum has instead used the latest in film and projection technology to bring alive the streets of Belfast where the dockyard workers lived, so as you walk along a gallery one of the walls becomes film and sound and guides you towards another part of the story. It is very well done and not at all intrusive to your enjoyment. It can be a bit spooky when animated characters start speaking to you. There is a vast amount of material, but you are faithfully guided around, almost by the exhibits themselves.

Some of the many artifacts in the museum.

Some of the many artifacts in the museum.
Some of the many artifacts in the museum.

Some of the many artifacts in the museum.
Some of the many artifacts in the museum.

Some of the many artifacts in the museum.
Some of the many artifacts in the museum.

Some of the many artifacts in the museum.

One of the most imaginative galleries was no 5, The Maiden Voyage. Here you get to know the crew and passengers – hear about their dreams and learn about their lives on board Titanic as they set sail for America. A highlight for me was a representation of the Titanic thundering down the slipway, for her first taste of the element that was to destroy her. Amongst all the film and interaction was a bit of virtual reality that was inspired. You stand in front of a dark wall and suddenly you are in the engine room of the Titanic with all the engine room alive around you. Bit by bit you are transported up a cut section of the ship showing steerage, first class, public lounges and dining areas, up the Grand Staircase (so immortalised in the film) until finally you arrive on the bridge. It is a great piece of theatre and informative too. There are the usual coffee shops and eateries and a souvenir shop that sell a good range of items. If you buy one thing, buy the souvenir guide Titanic Belfast. It has some wonderful photos and is really informative.

Titanic launch

Titanic launch
Titanic launch

Titanic launch

I spent over three hours looking around and could have stayed a lot longer, it’s that good. For those of you who worry about the situation in Belfast, don’t. The people are extremely friendly, the pubs and resturants great, and apart from the odd flare up, away from the city centre, usually around the marching season, the city is as safe as any in mainland England.

Titanic Memorial in Belfast City Center.

Titanic Memorial in Belfast City Center.

Morthoe Shipwrecks-Collier,Newtown,Priestfield and H.M.S.Weazel

Mortehoe is a jewel of a village set almost on the coast of North Devon. Nearby is Morte Point, Baggy Point and Rockham Bay. All of them have seen shipwrecks and storms so the beauty of the area is deceiving. However there is no denying its beauty and a short walk to Rockham Bay( about 20 mins ) will allow you to sample it to the full, as well as the chance to examine the wreckage of the S.S. Collier wrecked here in January 28th 1914.

The SS Collier

The SS Collier
The SS Collier

The SS Collier

The path to Rockham Bay is well signposted from the village and wends its way down through part of the village to the top of the cliffs. You can easily see where the path branches to the left to go to Morte Point, but we go right through a gate, and down a half path and half steps towards the Bay. At the top of the Bay, there are some concrete steps and a very steep wooden set of steps that get you down to the beach. It is very easy going down, but a killer coming back as the treads are quite high. From the top of the cliff you can easily see the boiler of the wreck so that will help you go in the right direction when you get down onto the sand and head out over the rocks towards it.

Watch the steep ladder.

Watch the steep ladder.
The boiler.

The boiler.

The S.S. Collier was on her way from Milford to Avonmouth, when she ran aground in Rockham Bay. The Coastguards were alerted about half past two in the morning and dispatched the lfracombe lifeboat. By the time it turned up, the seven crew, the ships dog,cat,and a goldfinch in a cage, had managed to get into the ships dingy. The lifeboat found them off Bull Point and managed to transfer all of them to safety. Efforts were made to get the vessel off the rocks but to no avail, and she soon went to pieces where you can see her today. Interestingly, she was one of the first steamers to carry Mail to Australia.

SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.

SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.
SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.

SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.
SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.

SS Collier wreckage. Boilers,engine block and an iron propeller.

When you have finished rooting around the wreck and staggered back up the ladder to the top of the cliff you can either go back to Mortehoe or take the path towards Morte Point. It is a beautiful walk and the Point is now the haunt of seals. You can get a tripper boat from Ilfracombe to go out and see them. It was also here that the S.S. Priestfield went aground on Slipper Rock in May 1912 just south of the Point.

The S.S.Priestfield.

The S.S.Priestfield.

Extract from Coastguards Log May 8th 1912 S.S.Priestfield of Newcastle from Antwerp, bound to Barry in Wales for orders. Stuck on Slipper Rock (south of Morte Point) and remained. Her keel being visible from the shore broadside on. The watchman heard unusual sounds at 12-10 a.m. The watchman J.Parkerson and Samuel Yeo climbed round the rocks and found the position of the Steamer. Returned and called Rocket Brigade. I notified the coastguard at Ilfracombe at 12-5. Started with waggon at 1 a.m arriving at the ship 1-15a.m. Weather very thick fog and rain. Asked if they required a line, they answered ‘not yet’. We stood by her until noon. Returned at 12-15 noon. A small tug (the Devonia) tried to tow her off. The steamer used her own propellers at the same time. She was unsuccessful. At 9-30 p.m resumed towing by four large tugs that had arrived from Cardiff and got her off at 11-5 p.m. The chief mates wife left the ship and came ashore over the rocks.

Path to Morte Point

Path to Morte Point
Path to Rockham Bay

Path to Rockham Bay

If you want to carry on walking past Morte Point, you can continue on the Coastal path towards Woolacombe Bay, passing Barracane Beach where the S.S.Newtown went aground on 7th January1915. She was almost a brand new boat based in South Wales, and was homeward bound from Spain with a cargo of pit props. Although she was hard aground there was great hope that she could be refloated. However, a couple of weeks later, a strong westerly gale drove the Newtown ninety feet further up the rocks, and there she lay until she was purchased by the Cornish Salvage Company. They were unsuccessful in their efforts to refloat the vessel, so they broke her up where she lay You would think that there would be something left of her, but I could find no trace.

The S.S.Newtown.

The S.S.Newtown.
Rescuing the crew.

Rescuing the crew.

When you finally get back to Mortehoe you will find three pubs to choose from, all very nice. I went to the Ship Aground ( well I would ) which has a good range of beer and food. Outside is the anchor from the S.S.Collier, which was raised by the Sub Aqua branch of R.A.F.Chivenor and presented to the village.

The Ship Aground Pub.

The Ship Aground Pub.
Collier's anchors.

Collier’s anchors.

As you go back to the car park there is one more echo of a wreck. Next to the car park is the local museum, and in its garden is a cannon from the wreck of H.M.S.Weazel, lost at Baggy Point in February 1799.

The cannon was raised by a group of local divers in 1968.

The cannon was raised by a group of local divers in 1968.

H.M.S.Weazel was a 14 gun sloop o’ war which was caught out in a ferocious north-north westerly gale. She tried to claw off the coast and sent up repeated distress signals. It was all to no avail, and she broke up completely near Baggy Point taking all 106 of her crew to the bottom with her.

Map showing Morte Point, Rockham Bay and Barracane Beach.

Map showing Morte Point, Rockham Bay and Barracane Beach.
Map showing Baggy Point.

Map showing Baggy Point.

The Wreck of the Gairsoppa

In 1940 Britain stood alone again the might of Germany who had conquered most of Europe. At sea the U boat packs waged a savage attack against Allied shipping which struggled to bring supplies to a beleaguered Island. As fast as the Allies built ships, the U boats sunk them. In 1941, 38 ships were sunk by the Wolf Packs, and one of them was the SS Gairsoppa. Along with a cargo of iron and tea the ship was also transporting 240 tonnes of silver bullion desperately needed to finance the War Effort.

The S.S.Gairsoppa

The S.S.Gairsoppa

In December 1940 the Gairsoppa left Calcutta in India and steamed around the African coast to Freetown in Sierra Leone to join convoy SL 64 which was heading for Liverpool docks in England. The unescorted convoy left on 31 January 1941 and at first all went well. Most of the ships were quite elderly and so kept the convoy speed down to about eight knots. However as the convoy got closer to the British Isles the weather worsened and the Gairsoppa carrying nearly 7000 tonnes including the silver found it hard to maintain even this slow speed without burning more and more fuel oil. Captain Gerald Hyland became very worried about the situation so much so that he doubted that he would be able to reach Liverpool at all. As his fuel slowly started to dwindle he sent a signal to the convoy leader and requested permission to leave the convoy and proceed as best he could to the nearest port, which was Galway on the west coast of Ireland. On February 14 1941 the Gairsoppa broke away from the convoy and turned slowly towards Ireland. Two days later she was picked up by a Focker Wulf Condor a long range spotting plane. The aircraft lazily circled the ship all the while sending out her position to the nearest Wolf packs. One of the closest U Boats was U Boat 101 commanded by Ernst Mengerson and he could not believe his luck. Here was a heavily loaded cargo ship miles from anywhere with no escorts just waiting to be sunk. Ernst sped to the area, ordered his crew to start the attack and fired his torpedo at the vulnerable ship blowing apart the ships No 2 hold and snapping off the Gairsoppa’s foremast which carried the radio ariel. As fire and smoke raged through the ship, Captain Hyland, unable to send a distress gave the order to abandon ship.

Ernst Mengerson

Ernst Mengerson

As the men started to lower the three lifeboats the U Boat surfaced and sprayed the upper deck with machine gun fire. One of the lifeboats falls were severed in the hail of bullets and crashed down into the sea. Dozens of men leapt overboard to escape the murderous fire, including Second Officer Richard Ayres. As soon as Ayres and some of the men got into the boat they began to frantically row away from the sinking ship fearful of being pulled down with it. Somehow they managed to get clear and watched with horror as the Gairsoppa sunk beneath the waves barely twenty minutes after it had been torpedoed. There had been85 people on the Gairsoppa, but when Richard Ayres looked around the stormy sea, none of the other lifeboats were to be seen. On his boat were 31 men, eight white but most were Indian seamen known as Lascars. Nobody else knew how to sail a small boat, so Ayres immediately got to work organizing things. After fitting an oar to take the place of the damaged rudder he set course to the east and hopefully land. The next thing he did was give the Indian seamen any spare blankets as they were suffering dreadfully from cold and shock and rigged up a small canvas shelter.

Richard Ayres

Richard Ayres

For food they had some tins of condensed milk and some dry biscuit that they had great difficulty swallowing as they had very little water. Each man was limited to half a pint of water a day and so some of the Lascars started drinking the seawater in an effort to swallow the biscuit and relieve their thirst. Unfortunately if you drink seawater there is too much salt in it and your kidneys cannot produce urine, so you become even more dehydrated and eventually die. On the eighth day the water completely ran out and as Ayres could not stop the Lascars drinking the seawater, they started to die from dehydration and also frostbite.

St.Wynwallow Church

St.Wynwallow Church
Inside St. Wynwallow Church

Inside St. Wynwallow Church

After thirteen awful days at sea one of the men croaked the word they had all despaired of ever hearing. Land! As the boat topped a wave, there was a dark outline on the horizon and a faint blink of light. As the boat edged nearer they could see clearly the outline of the Lizard Lighthouse. They had sailed over 300 miles from where the Gairsoppa had sunk. Richard Ayres sailed the boat towards a small rocky cove and as he got to the entrance a huge wave swept in and overturned the little boat tipping all of them into the water drowning all but three of the crew. The next wave partially righted the boat and Ayres managed to scramble on board helping Thomas and Hampshire onto the upturn keel only to have another breaker capsize the boat again. Hampshire was washed away to his death but Ayres and Thomas were thrown up onto the rocks. As they scrambled up the rocky beach to safety another larger wave thundered in and knocked Thomas over and he drowned yards from safety. Overwhelmed by the catastrophe Ayres gave up all his will to live and was on the point of surrendering to his fate when he heard voices urging him not to give up.

Robert Frederick Hampshire,radio officer.

Robert Frederick Hampshire,radio officer.

Three girls Betty Driver, Olive Martin and her sister who were evacuees from Tottenham had been walking on the cliffs when they had spotted the little boat and the drama that followed. One sped away across the fields to get help and the other two raced down to the beach and shouted to the men, begging them to keep swimming. Soon the first girl arrived with a Coastguard called Brian Richards who threw Ayres a rope and pulled him to safety. Later the bodies of Thomas, Hampshire and two Lascars were recovered and buried close by in St. Wynwallows Church. Nobody ever discovered what happened to the other life rafts and the men in them.

Grave of an unknown crewman.

Grave of an unknown crewman.

In an almost cruel twist of chance Ayres had piloted his boat to Caerthillian Cove just a few miles from his home. All that way, to be robbed of the chance of saving all those lives, when so close to safety, it was no wonder that Richard Ayres on his return to the sea nine months later hardly ever talked about it. He had no need to reproach himself as he had done everything and more to bring his shipmates home safe. In the end the sea always has the last word. Ayres was awarded an M.B.E. in recognition of his outstanding efforts to keep his fellow survivors alive as well as Lloyds War Medal for bravery at sea. Richard Ayres served out his war service in the Royal Naval Reserve and carried on into civilian life dying in 1992. He was a very brave man who’s life made a difference. Would that we could all say the same.

Some of the walks around the Lizard, including Church Cove.

Some of the walks around the Lizard, including Church Cove.

Under a salvage agreement the British government has agreed to pay Odyssey Marine 80% of the value of cargo recovered, which could include silver bullion and silver specie. Odyssey expects to start operations at both wrecks in the second quarter of 2012. Gairsoppa lies in approximately 4,700 meters of water, about 300 miles off the coast of Ireland. The hull is upright and lying in an east-west orientation, the torpedo hole being clearly visible. it is quite easy to find the graveyard at St Wynwallow Church, Landewednwack. Drive to the Lizard and head for Church Cove, as Landewednwack does not figure on most car maps. the graves are just at the top of the stairs that are set into the wall of the car park.


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Lawrence of Arabia

Thomas Edward Lawrence, born in 1888 was better known to the world as Lawrence of Arabia. A complex, charismatic man, Lawrence rose to fame during the Arab Revolt of 1916 when he tried to get Arab support for the British War effort in the region. Before the First World War Lawrence had been an archaeologist who worked for several seasons on the British Museum’s excavation at the Neo Hittite site of Carchemish, near Jerablus in North Syria, which is now the Turkish Syrian border and it was on his travels here, and in other Arab areas, that he conceived a respect and liking for the Arab people.

Lawrence, as most people today know him.

Lawrence, as most people today know him.

In 1914, Lawrence joined the Arab Bureau of the British Intelligence Department in Cairo, and immediately became involved with the Arab Nationalist Movement and the general politics of the area. During this time he also became extremely interested in Aerial Photography and pioneered its use in the development of map making. He devised his own system of laying the photos in a grid pattern to use as a basis for a map and taught the pilots how to take the photographs that he needed, acting as a Liaison Officer between the Royal Flying Corps and the survey teams on the ground. When his ideas were successfully tested at Gallipoli, Aerial Photography soon came into widespread use.

Lawrences birth place 'Gorphwysfa'in Tremadog, Wales.

Lawrences birth place ‘Gorphwysfa’in Tremadog, Wales.
Lawrence and Leonard Wooley at Carchemish 1913

Lawrence and Leonard Wooley at Carchemish 1913

In June 1916, Sherif Hussein of Mecca started the Arab revolt. Lawrence became the principle Liaison Officer between the British, commanded by General Allenby, and the Arab forces led by Prince Faisal. He also became a great exponent of what is now called ‘combined operations’ by persuading the Arabs to incorporate pilots and their aircraft into their hit and run operations, as well as using horses, camels and infantry. Lawrence himself famously led raids on the Hejaz railway and in a stroke of bold genius captured the strategic port of Aqaba. This was a remarkable achievement which made Lawrence into a national hero in England and an object of almost veneration to the Arabs. By 1918 Lawrence and the Arab forces had captured Damascus where they set up a short lived Arab Government. Then, as now, the politics of the region defied all efforts to reach satisfactory agreements between the various tribes and the whole thing sank into minefield of distrust and enmity. But Lawrence, always a fierce advocate of a free Arab State,, fought on trying to bang heads together and vigorously arguing for Arab freedom at the Paris Peace Conference of 1919. Alas all his arguments fell on deaf ears, and feeling that he had been sidestepped by the political establishment, he left the Conference, took up a research fellowship at All Souls College Oxford, and started to write his monumental work, The Seven Pillars of Wisdom.

Lawrence in British Army Uniform,1915

Lawrence in British Army Uniform,1915

Between 1921 and 1922 he worked for Winston Churchill at the Colonial Office, attended the Cairo Conference and was the British representative in Trans Jordan. Lawrence was a Colonel by now and extremely famous for his exploits with the Arabs during the War. He thought this was unjustified, as he felt that somehow he had betrayed the Arabs, and if he had worked harder, been more eloquent things might have been different. Still, he wrote to anybody with influence that he could think of, trying to get them to see things his way, and when nothing came off it all, he had a bit of a breakdown. Heartily sick of his celebrity he determined to leave the Army and hide away as an aircraftsman in the R.A.F. under the assumed name of John Hume Ross. The idea of the famous Lawrence of Arabia hiding as an aircraftman was the equivalent today of Tony Blair joining the Conservatives. The Press had a field day when they found out and the whole thing developed into a complete media circus. The R.A.F were appalled, blamed Lawrence for the whole thing, and had him dismissed from the R.A.F for conduct unbecoming an officer.

Lawrence with his beloved Brough Suprior motobike.

Lawrence with his beloved Brough Suprior motobike.
You can see it at the Imperial War Museum

You can see it at the Imperial War Museum

In 1924 Lawrence joined the Tank Regiment at Bovingdon in Dorset under the name of Thomas Edward Shaw, which he later adopted legally by deed poll. He didn’t like the Army, in fact, he loathed it and pressed all the influential friends that he had made in the Army and Government to get him back into the R.A.F. but to no avail. His mental health by now was deteriorating to the point that he had convinced himself that only in the RA.F would he have a future worth living for. Finally he wrote such a despondent letter to one of his friends that the recipient took it to be a suicide threat. Fearing a huge scandal if one of Britain’s Great War hero’s was to kill himself, the Prime Minister Stanley Baldwin intervened, so in 1925 Lawrence rejoined the R.A.F. He was first posted to Cranwell, then in 1926 he served in India as a clerk in the engine maintenance department.In 1927 he was sent to RAF Miranshah, a remote base on the border with Afghanistan. Miranshah was home to one squadron, five officers, 25 airmen, and 700 Indian scouts. Lawrence arrived in late May 1928 and was given simple clerical duties. His peace and quiet didn’t last long. By September, the British press was printing fictional reports about the mysterious Colonel Lawrence, claiming that he was spying in Afghanistan. All sorts of stories were whipped up by the press. One that he had become a Holy Man, and another that he was trying to raise an Army against King Amanullah in Kabul. All of them were completely untrue, but once again Lawrence was in the eye of a media storm. However, the tales of covert action stirred fierce anti-British sentiment. An alarmed foreign secretary, Austen Chamberlain, found Lawrence’s presence in India to be, as he described it, “very inconvenient.” so in 1929 he was pulled out of Afganistan and sent to R.A.F.Mountbatten. it was here that he became involved with testing the fast rescue launches that became the famous R.A.F rescue boats. (see Sunderland flying boats for more details)

One of Lawrence’s Class 200 boats.

One of Lawrence’s Class 200 boats.

Even while doing an airman’s work, Lawrence socialized and corresponded with an astounding number of notable political and artistic figures, including George Bernard Shaw, Robert Graves, Nancy Astor, Thomas Hardy, Noel Coward, E. M. Forster, Siegfried Sassoon, William Butler Yeats, John Buchan, and of course, Trenchard, Churchill, and Liddell Hart.

Lawrence in R.A.F.uniform.

Lawrence in R.A.F.uniform.

By March 1933, however, Lawrence had been returned to regular airman duties at Mount Batten and this bored him, so on March 6, he requested a discharge. When the story leaked, it caused a great deal of trouble ensued. Everyone, including senior government officials, assumed Lawrence had been fired. Very high-level inquiries came down on an uncomfortable RAF. Did Lawrence, they asked, have any complaint about his treatment? Lawrence reported he had no complaint and would stay if given something worthwhile to do. Within days, he was posted to the RAF Marine Aircraft Experimental Establishment at RAF Felixstowe.

Lawrence of Arabia's simple grave.

Lawrence of Arabia’s simple grave.
Lawrence of Arabia's simple grave.

Lawrence of Arabia’s simple grave.

The next couple of years were very happily spent traveling to R.A.F. boatyards inspecting equipment. In November 1934, he moved to RAF Bridlington, on the North Sea—his final posting. In February 1935 Lawrence left the R.A.F. for good. He did so with considerable regret, as Lawrence wrote to Air Chief Marshal Edward Ellington, the RAF head. His letter said, in part: “I’ve been at home in the ranks and well and happy. … If you still keep that old file about me, will you please close it with this note which says how sadly I am going? The RAF has been more than my profession.” Barely two months later, Lawrence suffered massive injuries in a motorcycle crash. He never came out of a coma, and died on May 1935. He was only 46 years of age.

The Funeral with Churchill attending.

The Funeral with Churchill attending.
The Funeral with Churchill attending.

The Funeral with Churchill attending.

The grave of T.E. Lawrence is in the delightful village of Moreton. The graveyard is a few yards from the chuch, up the main road, but well sign posted. At his funeral the church was packed with people from all walks of life including Winston Churchill. Moreton is only a short distance from Clouds Hill the small cottage where Lawrence spent the last days of his life. It is a tiny place run by the National Trust, who have left things more or less as they were when Lawrence lived there. It is all very evocative of the man, with his books, music, and a little model of his beloved launch, Biscuit. There are no facilities here so most people walk or drive the short distance to Moreton for a cup of tea and lunch at the very pleasant Moreton Tea Rooms, where they have lots of Lawrence memorabilia.

Moreton Tea Room.

Moreton Tea Room.
Clouds Hill

Clouds Hill

A few hundred yards down the road from Clouds Hill is the spot where Lawrence had his motorbike accident. There is a layby there now, with a tree sheltering a small memorial. The whole area is quite untouched and probably looks much the same as it did in Lawrence’s time.

The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.

The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.
The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.

The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.
The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.

The Memorial where Lawrence crashed.

The Wreck of the Athina B

I lived in Brighton until I was about 24, and in all those years we never had a shipwreck, in spite of seeing loads of ships sailing back and forth on the horizon. There once was a dead whale washed up near the West Pier (now burned down) which drove the café owners wild with anger at the stink of its rotting carcase, and there was a horrible large sort of squid which washed ashore one evening and washed away by the next dawn, but never a shipwreck. All that changed on 21st January 1980 when the cargo ship Athena B ended up hard aground on the beach near the Aquarium to the east of the Palace Pier, now called the Brighton Pier.

Photo courtesy Clive Warneford.

Photo courtesy Clive Warneford.

Originally built as the Kojima Maru at Hiroshima in 1968, she was renamed several times until ending up in Greek ownership and being renamed the Athena B. On her last trip she left the Azores on December 11th 1979 loaded with 3000 tonnes of pumice stone bound for Shoreham by Sea. During the voyage she had problems with her radar compass and generator and put in to La Rochelle for repairs. As the Athena B left France the weather worsened and when she arrived off Shoreham on the afternoon of the 20th January the winds were gusting Force eight and she couldn’t get into the harbour which has a fairly narrow entrance. While the ship hovered outside the harbour her engines lost power and she started to drift towards Brighton. Luckily the Shoreham Lifeboat was close at hand and she managed to take off half of the crew including the Captains family. The rest of the crew had to wait till the morning of the 21st January when the lifeboat after four attempts managed to get all the crew to safety. It was a very difficult rescue and the Cox’n, Ken Voice was the awarded the RNLI’s Silver Medal.

Athina B being unloaded.

Athina B being unloaded.
Athina B being unloaded.

Athina B being unloaded.

After all the crew had been taken off the ship the Athena B continued to drift in the gale force winds and ended up beached on the shore, where she broke her back, and was declared a complete write off. Very soon the salvors, engaged a mobile crane and started to off load her cargo of pumice stone. The job took about a month and in that time the shipwreck became a very popular tourist attraction with thousands turning up to see her, so much so that she had to have a Police guard to prevent souvenir hunters stripping the wreck of anything that was not screwed down.

Mind the waves.

Mind the waves.
Mind the waves.

Mind the waves.

Stalls were set up along Madeira Drive as the traders cashed in on the wreck and Volk’s Railway, the oldest operating electric railway in the world opened up especially during that winters month to give the tourists something else to do. On the 21st February 1980 all the excitement came to an end as the Athina B was floated off the beach and towed to Rainham to be scrapped. All that is left of her now is one of her anchors mounted on a stone plinth by the seafront.

The anchor.

The anchor.
Comemmorative plaque.

Comemmorative plaque.

A walk along the seafront of Brighton is always a pleasure. If you start at the Ruins of the old West pier and walk towards Brighton Pier there are plenty of little pubs , restaurants and coffee shops whist on the upper walk you can still see many original buildings that have not changed much since Victorian times. The Grand Hotel that was wrecked by an IRA bomb back in the 1980 has been so carefully restored that only locals can see the join. A stroll on the Pier (free) allows you to see the full impact of the seafront and nearby is the famous Aquarium. Just to the east, on the pavement alongside the seafront, you will find the Athina B’s anchor and the entrance to Volk’s Railway, which will take you east along the seafront to Black Rock near the Brighton Marina where you will find plenty of shops restaurants, pubs and of course boats.I can think of worst ways of passing a day.

The Brighton Pier.

The Brighton Pier.
The Brighton Pier.

The Brighton Pier.
The Cricketers Pub

The Cricketers Pub

I always like to recommend a pub on these walks because usually they are out of the way places. But Brighton has literally hundreds of pubs to suit every taste. However since you will probably end up near the famous Lanes, you would be well advised to have a drink at the Cricketers Arms. It’s a real Victorian Pub immortalized by Graham Greene in his book Brighton Rock, and apart from the beer (much better) it hasn’t changed much in years. There has been a pub on the premises since 1547, and one of their most famous customers was Jack the Ripper and in The Greene Room bar, (upstairs), you can spend some time following the story of his origins and how he planned his murders from this very spot. The Cricketer’s has a unique charm of its own and is a relief from some of the more fashionable ‘chain pubs’
View Larger Map If you enlarge the map you will see the seafront with Volks railway marked.

The Cutty Sark

I first saw the Cutty Sark in 1980. It was in the same dry dock as it is now, but Greenwich then was a very different place to what it is now. Then it was very rundown, but now with the coming of the O2 and lots of regeneration money the place has been transformed. Now, ‘Maritime Greenwich’ is a World Heritage site where you can see all manner of things including the Royal Observatory.

The Cutty sark in the 1980's

The Cutty sark in the 1980’s
The Cutty sark in the 1980's

The Cutty sark in the 1980’s

The Cutty Sark had been open as a tourist attraction by the Queen in 1957 and until the fire that nearly destroyed her in 2007 more than 13 million visitors had walked her decks and peered into her vast holds. A year before the fire started, the Cutty Sark had been closed to the public for much needed repairs and conservation work. One of the biggest challenges faced by the conservers was the need to introduce a new support system for the ships’ hull. When the Cutty Sark had been dry docked all those years ago, she was done in the conventional manner, with her keel resting on blocks at the bottom of the dock with large baulks of timber props holding her upright. Over the years this put an immense strain on her hull and was starting to distort it quite badly. The other big problem besides the constant leaks in the deck, was the preservation of the vessels composite construction. The Cutty Sark is not a wooden vessel but a ship made up of many thin wrought iron frames on to which are bolted wooden planks. This had the advantage of making an extremely strong hull with much more room in the holds because it did not need the massive beams a wooden hull needed.

The Cutty Sark today, fully restored

The Cutty Sark today, fully restored
The Cutty Sark today, fully restored

The Cutty Sark today, fully restored

To get around the distortion of the hull, the conservers came up with the elegant idea of raising the hull three metres in the air and supporting it with steel props. It is a fascinating piece of engineering which allows the visitor to walk right under the hull. At just above dock level the gaps have been glassed in, so that the ship looks as if it is floating. It is a very clever and practical idea.

Even the area has had a makeover.

Even the area has had a makeover.
Even the area has had a makeover.

Even the area has had a makeover.

Nowadays we have all heard of the ‘War on Drugs’ but in the 18th Century England was engaged in the Opium trade in a very big way and the British Government, through the East India Company, trafficked huge amounts of opium into China. The Chinese had banned opium in 1799 but like today they found that it was impossible to halt the illegal trade so they seized and destroyed shipments in Canton. The British were outraged, seeing the Chinese actions as a restriction on free trade and declared war in 1839. The Chinese were no match for the Royal Navy and in the end were forced to cede Britain a number of ports including Hong Kong. So what was all this about? Well tea, the humble cuppa. Tea was fashionable, expensive and produced exclusively in China until the mid 19th century. Tea had been introduced into England by the wife of Charles 11, Catherine of Braganzer and

The elegant structure that supports the ship.

The elegant structure that supports the ship.
The elegant structure that supports the ship.

The elegant structure that supports the ship.

despite being heavily taxed was enjoyed by all social classes, mainly due to the fact that it was smuggled in vast quantities into Britain, so much so that at one time, more illegal tea was smuggled into the country through the Netherlands than through the legal importers of the East India Company. The reason for the opium trafficking was the fact that the East India Company had to pay for the tea in silver, as the West had little in the way of trade goods that China wanted. To redress this so called trade imbalance, the East India Company grew opium in India and sold it to smugglers to run into China. The smugglers naturally had to pay for the opium in silver.

Catherine of Braganzer.

Catherine of Braganzer.

Determined to support the Company the British Government slashed the tax on tea from one hundred and twelve percent to twelve and a half percent. As tea became cheaper sales boomed and were further increased by the Temperance Movement, who in the 1840’s, promoted tea as an alternative to alcohol. A second Opium War broke out between 1856 and 1860 which resulted in more ports being opened up to Europeans including the important tea port of Hankow which was hundreds of miles up the Yangtze River. All this did not profit the East India Company much as the British Government was later forced by the Free Trade Movement to end the Company’s monopoly with China. This left the tea trade wide open and with demand for tea sky rocketing ever upwards there were fortunes to be made. Clipper ships like the Cutty Sark were built with the express purpose of shipping tea from China to London in the fastest possible time. Speed was vital and as the first home got the highest prices the ships became increasingly competitive and so the great tea races began. To give you an idea of how competitive these skippers were, there was a race in 1866 where five ships starting within hours of each other sailed 15000 miles from China to England over a period of ninety nine days, and when the first ship, called Ariel, arrived off the Kent coast,, she was only ten minutes ahead of her rival the Taeping.

memorial items

memorial items
A great collection of figureheads.

A great collection of figureheads.

It was into this fiercely competitive trade that the Cutty Sark was launched in November 1846.She was owned by John Willis, who at nineteen, had brought home his first tea cargo and now owned a fleet of clipper ships. The Cutty Sark was 64.74 metres in length with a beam of 10.97 metres and a displacement of 2100 tons. She was able to carry 1700 tons of cargo and her 32000 square feet of canvas was tended by a crew of between 28 and 35. At the time that Willis placed the order for the ship, American clippers were the fastest ships and although the British ships were some of the finest in the world they had yet to win a single tea race. In 1868 the Aberdeen clipper Thermopylae had set a new record of 61 days for a voyage between London and Melbourne in Australia, and Willis was determined that his new ship would do better. Not only was there a great deal of money to be made by having the fastest ship, there was also a huge prestige for the owner. The Tea Races were reported in the National Press and huge amounts of money were wagered with the event being treated like a National sporting event, much like the Grand National today.

John Willis.

John Willis.

The firm of Scott and Linton were contracted to design and build the boat within six months with strict penalties applied for non compliance. The design was a judicious mix of some of the most successful clipper designs and a light composite hull. This was all quite experimental for its time, and as it was being built to Lloyyds A1 Standard ,problems soon arose with Lloyyds wanting the hull to be strengthened. Half way through the build Scott and Linton ran out of money and the job was completed by William Denny and Brothers. When finished, the Cutty Sark maximum logged speed was seventeen and a half knots, so she was not faster that the Thermopylae on paper , but in heavy weather with strong winds she had the edge. So John Willis had been successful in making one of the fastest clipper ships in the world. However his dream of winning the tea race was not to be.

The Thermopylae

The Thermopylae

The most famous race against Thermopylae occurred in 1872, the two ships leaving Shanghai together on 18 June. Two weeks later Cutty Sark had built up a lead of some 400 miles, but then lost her rudder in a heavy gale after passing through the Sunda Strait. John Willis’ brother was on board the ship and ordered Moodie to put in to Cape Town for repairs. Moodie refused, and instead the ship’s carpenter Henry Henderson constructed a new rudder from spare timbers and iron. This took six days, working in gales and heavy seas which meant the men were tossed about as they worked and the brazier used to heat the metal for working was spilled out, burning the captain’s son. The ship finally arrived in London on 18 October a week after Thermopylae, a total passage of 122 days. The captain and crew were commended for their performance and Henderson received a £50 bonus for his work. This was the closest Cutty Sark ever came to being first ship home. She was not to make many more Tea races, because by now the Suez Canal had been open for a few years and gradually steamships were taking over the trade and prices were dropping. However there was another cargo that clipper ships could still carry competitively and that was wool from Australia.

The vast hold

The vast hold
Ships wheel and binacle.

Ships wheel and binacle.

It was on this route that the Cutty Sark showed what a wonderful ship she was. On one return trip from Britain to Australia she took 77 days, but on the return only 73 days. No ship was faster, not even her old rival Thermopylae, and for ten years the Cutty Sark was the fasted ship on the Wool trade. In one famous incident in 1889 that caught the publics’ imagination, the passenger steam ship R.M.S. Britannia recorded in her log that when she was steaming at 15 to 16 knots she was overtaken by a sailing ship. That ship was the Cutty Sark.

Rotting as the Ferreira.

Rotting as the Ferreira.
As a cadet ship.

As a cadet ship.

But the era of the clipper ships was coming to an end, and by 1895 only ten remained. The rest had been wrecked, foundered or been condemned. They were to be replaced by huge four masted steel barques with much larger carrying capacities. They would continue in the grain trade well into the 20th century, but for the Clipper ships the bell was tolling. In 1895 the Cutty Sark was sold to a Portugese company and renamed the Ferreira. She carried cargoes all over the world becoming more and more dilapidated as the years passed. In 1922 she put into Falmouth for a short time looking nothing like the famous Cutty Sark. Even so she was recognised by a retired sea captain Wilfrid Dowman, who as a sixteen year old apprentice, had seen her when he was in the sailing ship Hawkdale. Sickened at her sorry state he was determined to save her for the Nation and pursued her back to Portugal where he bought her. Luckily his wife Catherine was a member of the wealthy Courtauld family so there was plenty of money to enable his dream to come true.

Cutty Sark in Falmouth, with Fondrouant in background.

Cutty Sark in Falmouth, with Fondrouant in background.

Once back in Cornwall and spruced up, the Cutty Sark became a cadet training ship and during the summer she was also opened up as an attraction, with visitors arriving by rowing boat. Thus she became the first historic ship to open to the public (H.M.S. Victory followed shortly afterwards) since Francis Drakes Golden Hind in Deptford in the 1580’s. When Wilfred Dowman died in 1936 the ship was incorporated into the Thames Nautical College at Greenhithe on the River Thames. However after the Second World War the college obtained a much more modern ship ,H.M.S.=- Exmouth, to carry out her training in, and so the Cutty Sark was seen as outdated and unwanted. The future looked bleak, but at the last minute Frank Carr, the director of the National Maritime Museum, stepped in and persuaded the London County Council, to make a site in bomb damaged Greenwich available for the Cutty Sark. In 1951 the Festival of Britain was in full swing, so the Cutty Sark was given a lick of paint and moored off Deptford to test the public reaction to her full time preservation. People loved her and in two years raised over £250000 towards her conservation. In 1954 the Cutty Sark was floated into her permanent dock at Greenwich and the channel leading to the Thames sealed off. She was safe at last.

Save at last.

Save at last.

Besides being the last of the Clipper ships her other and some would say more important justification for being preserved was to be a lasting memorial to the Merchant Navy and all those brave men who lost their lives in Two World Wars. By the way I am sure you know this, but the name Cutty Sark comes from the poem Tam O Shanter by Robert Burns and describes a beautiful witch cavorting in a ‘cutty sark’ a sort of short shift. If you drink up the whiskey, it all makes perfect sense.

One of the better souveniers to be bought.

One of the better souveniers to be bought.

Opening times, transport links and maps can all be found at the website below.

The Cutty Sark

The Wreck of the Suevic

Many ships have fallen foul of the Lizard with its dense fog and treacherous seas, and in 1907 the White Star liner Suevic joined that infamous club when it was wrecked on rocks just yards from the Lizard lifeboat station. The wrecking was notable for setting the record for the greatest number of lives saved since the RNLI was founded in 1824, a record that still stands.

The Suevic held on the rocks.

The Suevic held on the rocks.

The Suevic was a vessel of 12,500 tons outward bound from Australia to Liverpool with a total complement of 456 passengers and crew and carrying a cargo that included frozen meat, butter, and copper bars. After calling in at Plymouth she set off on her last leg to Liverpool, but as the Suevic approached the Cornish coast dense fog surrounded the Lizard and unknown to her captain an error of navigation had placed the ship much closer to the shore than she should have been, and to cap it all the Liner was stemming at almost full speed, far too fast for the conditions. On the night of March 17th all these factors came into play and the Suevic ran full tilt into the Maenheere rocks just a few hundred yards from the Lizard lifeboat station. Her bows wedged firm between the jagged rocks which punched holes in her hull ensuring that the whole ship was stuck firmly on the rocks.

The Suevic is blown into two halves.

The Suevic is blown into two halves.

Tugs and four lifeboats arrive quickly on the scene but the dense fog and the maze of rocks and sunken ledges between the ship and the shore made the rescue extremely difficult. One lifeboat crashed into the Liner in the fog before the cox’n saw it but luckily no harm was done.

The Cadgwith Lifeboat.

The Cadgwith Lifeboat.

All the passengers and crew were rescued due to the magnificent efforts of the four local lifeboats. Of these the Cadgwith boat brought in 227 survivours, the Liizard boat 167, the Coverack boat 44 and Porthleven 18. Of the 456 survivors 160 were women and children.

The Bow is left to sink.

The Bow is left to sink.
The Stern is towed away.

The Stern is towed away.

Two days after the stranding every available lighter and coaster in the West Country was assembled to offload all the cargo and passenger belongings in a race against worsening weather. Divers were sent down to inspect the hull and because the forepart was so damaged they used explosives to shear off the bows from the relatively undamaged remainder of the ship which then floated free. Since this part of the ship contained all the machinery , boilers and passenger accommodation it was decided to tow it to Southampton. The owners, The White Star Line, they of Titanic fame, had a new bows built in Belfast , towed around to Southampton where it was grafted onto the old part of the ship. Thus the Suevic was reborn to sail another day. During the First World War she served as a troop ship, then in 1929 was sold to a Norwegian whaling company and renamed Skyttern. She survivd as a whale factory ship until 1942, when during the Second World War her crew scuttled her in the Skagerrack to prevent her falling into German hands.

The Lizard Lifeboat station with survivors fron the Suevic

The Lizard Lifeboat station with survivors fron the Suevic
R.N.L.I. plaque commemorating the event.

R.N.L.I. plaque commemorating the event.

You can still get down to the old lifeboat station on the Lizard and it is easy to see the rocks where the Suevic was stranded. The RNLI have placed a board on the path near the café’s illustrating the story. While you are drinking in the wild beauty of this the most southerly headland in Britain take the opportunity to walk up the coast path to the Lizard lighthouse. (you can drive there as well, it has a large car park) The light house was established in 1619 by a philanthropic Cornishman, Sir James Killegrew. The lighthouse is 19 metres high, but stands 70 metres above sea level making it one of the highest in the country and its light can be seen for 26 nautical miles.

Lizard Light

The Lifeboat station today.

The Lifeboat station today.
The Lizard Light

The Lizard Light

The whole site had been recently refurbished with lottery money and has a small but interesting museum, a shop and of course you can also do conducted tours of the lighthouse which is great because you get to stand right at the top with the light going around revolving on its bed of mercury. The views are breath taking and the whole area is still relatively unspoilt. The cafes further down are very nice and not too expensive. For the more hardy among you let me recommend the walk across the cliffs to Kynance. The scenery is magnificent, and you feel that you are in a separate country all off its own. Well that’s Cornwall for you.
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The fantastic view across the cliffs towards Kynance.

The fantastic view across the cliffs towards Kynance.

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The Wreck of the Kyber

The Kyber was an iron windjammer of 1967 tons, launched on Merseyside in 1880 for the Indian trade of the Brocklebank Shipping Line. In 1899 she was sold to the Calgate Shipping Company of liverpool and it was under this management that she embarked on what was to be her last voyage.On September 16th 1904 the Kyber was at the mouth of the Yarra River, Melbourne Australia, with orders to sail for Queenstown in Ireland with a cargo of 3000 tons of Victorian wheat. The voyage went well and on March 1905 she was 138 days out from Melbourne approaching the Cornish coast, when she was spotted by the lighthouse keepers on the Wolf Rock running before a freshening south westerly wind on course for the Lizard. However, as the day wore on the weather worsened with the wind rising to a near gale forcing the Kyber inexorably into Mounts Bay, which is between Lands End and the Lizard.

Painting of the Kyber about to strike the cliffs.

Painting of the Kyber about to strike the cliffs.

The men at the Coast Guard station were joined by the Cox’n of the Porthleven lifeboat who had seen the Kyber wallowing in heavy seas too far to leeward to get around the Lizard. He sent also sent a telegram to Falmouth for tugs to attend the vessel. As night fell the situation on the Kyber was getting desperate. All the sails were blown away making the ship impossible to manage in the heavy seas. Captain Henry Rothery let off distress signals and fired rockets when he was able to make out the outline of the Lizard light through the driving rain but it was all to no avail, around eleven o’clock that night, as the ship was pushed closer to the shore the captain let go two bow anchors to halt the drift of the Kyber, which was now, only 400 yards from the rocky cliffs of Portloe. The wind was whipping the sea’s to a frenzy with huge waves driving straight over the ship as she sank into the deep troughs, becoming submerged from stem to stern. Although the anchor ropes were bar taught they still held firm. On land the drama was hidden by the driving rain and pitch black sky, so it was not until dawn the following morning that the rocket crew from Sennen were alerted. The lifeboat could not be launched as the storm had flung great rocks all over the slipway so the rocket crew made its way up the hill towards Portloe.

The Kyber, smashed to matchwood.

The Kyber, smashed to matchwood.

At the same time as dawn broke the crew on the Kyber, who had been clinging to the rigging for over seven hours were in desperate straits half drowned and almost frozen to death. The ship was by now just a collection of bits of wood still held together by hope, but still she inched closer towards the cliffs as her anchors started to drag. As the Rocket crew ran as fast as they could towards the stricken ship, disaster finally struck. The anchor ropes were as stiff as iron bars under the immense strain and when a huge wave tore over the ship, it pounded onto her port side, turning the Kyber to leeward. The mizzen mast collapsed, then the fore and main mast, flinging the crew into the water. The stern smashed down onto the rocks breaking the vessel amidships. Within a few minutes the Kyber was a mass of debris scattered all over the beach surrounded by a sea full of floating wheat.

Leonard Willis

Leonard Willis

Only three of the crew escaped. John Harries an apprentice managed to jump overboard just before she struck, Gustavus Johannson and Leonard Willis dropped from the stern onto a patch of rocks and were rescued by fishermen and coastguards who had rushed to the scene with the Rocket brigade, who arrived to find that their job was done. The bodies of Captain Henry Rothery and 22 of the crew were later recovered and buried by the side of the tower at St. Levan church.

Only this small marker for the souls of the Kyber.

Only this small marker for the souls of the Kyber.

St. Levan Church is set in a pretty secluded valley some distance from the village of St. Levan. The church proper goes back to the 15th century but some parts are Norman. The Kybers’ grave is right by the tower, and near a great cleft stone known as the St. Levan Stone. It dates back to pre Christian times and has an interesting prophecy made by the Saint which says, that when a packhorse with panniers astride can walk through the crack, then the world is done. You can see more on this interesting Church at their website.

St.Levan Church

The Church

The Church
The St.Levan Stone.

The St.Levan Stone.

Nearby to the tower is the grave of Vice Admiral Cecil Ponsonby Talbot KBC,KBE,DSO. 1884-1970. The career of this man is incredible. It reads like a ‘Boys Own’ comic. He was in the Boxer Rebellion in China and served at Jutland. Furthermore he became one of the first submarine commanders of the Geat War, and also joined the Naval Air service in airships and blimps. Serving with distinction in the Second War he became the youngest Admiral since Nelson. The list goes on and on. I have copied a few photos from his Sons’ excellent website just to give you a flavour of those bygone days. I urge you to visit the two sites below, to learn more about this truly remarkable man

Vice Admiral Sir Cecil Ponsonby Talbot

Vice Admiral Ponsonby Talbot, photo collection

Airship No1

Airship No1
Talbot is in the chair.

Talbot is in the chair.
The Vice Admiral

The Vice Admiral
Subs at Torquay

Subs at Torquay

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Trinity Marine

Tucked away in the middle of the Teign valley near Doddiscomeleigh is a collection of large sheds that house one of the best collections of marine Antiques and associated artefacts in the country. You can buy anything from a torpedo to a figurehead, and the list is so large that I am not going to try and catalogue it, and anyway it constantly changes as new stock comes in. If you want a hard hat divers helmet, silver and crockery from say the Liner Winsor Castle, or just a ships bell or a brass porthole, this is the pace to go.

Torpedoes

Torpedoes
Harpoon

Harpoon
Telegraph

Telegraph
Bells

Bells

Outside in the yard merchandise for sale or refurbishment is stacked up in cages including torpedo’s, ships lanterns, gun mountings, small yellow submersibles and just about anything else that you can think off. They also have two showrooms where you can view an amazing collection of binnacles, ships plaques, furniture ships telegraphs, telescopes, sextants, ships wheels and searchlights. The list just goes on and on and around every corner is a new treasure

Showroom

Showroom
Showroom

Showroom
Showroom

Showroom
Showroom

Showroom

The Company was founded about fifty years ago as general dealers, and then morphed into Marine memorabilia due to the passion and enthusiasm of the family that runs it. The man you are most likely to meet is the ever helpful Mark Jameson, who‘s knowledge is quite encyclopaedic.

Mark Jameson – My old helmets.
Mark Jameson

Mark Jameson
My old helmets.

My old helmets.

So where do they get all this stuff? Some comes from auctions all over the world and some comes from the shipbreaking yards at Alang in India, where Trinity Marine have an outpost.

The shipyards at Alang recycle approximately half of all ships salvaged around the world. The yards are located on the Gulf of Khambat, 50 kilometres southeast of Bhavnagar. Environmentalists note that before shipbreaking began there in June 1983 the beach at Alang was pristine and unspoiled. However, locals say that the work provides a reasonably paid job by local standards, with a steady income to support their families.

Large super tankers, car ferries, container ships, and a dwindling number of ocean liners are beached during high tide, and as the tide recedes, hundreds of manual labourers dismantle each ship, salvaging what they can and reducing the rest into scrap. Tens of thousands of jobs are supported by this activity and millions of tons of steel are recovered. There are loads of video’s on Y-tube, so I have put up three to give you an idea of what goes on.

This piece of furniture, pictured below, gives you an idea of the history that is involved with some of these pieces. This sideboard was once the property of Admiral Sir ‘Jackie’ Fisher on board H.M.S. Renown. Renown was taking King George and Queen Mary, then the Prince and Princess of Wales to India. It can be yours for a little over £2000. Not bad for a bit of history.Contact their website for the latest items.

Trinity Marine

Jacky Fisher's Sideboard

Jacky Fisher’s Sideboard

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Simon the cat

Simon was the ships cat on H.M.S. Amethyst.For his outstanding behaviour in keeping morale up, and the rats down, during Amethysts troubles, even though he was wounded by shellfire, he was awarded the Dickinson medal. This is the equivilent of the animal V.C. and was the first time it had been awarded to a cat.

News Stories

News Stories

When the ship returned to England Simon became world famous with bags of fan mail delivered daily. Unfortunately Simon had to be placed into quarentine far away from all his sailor friends.He didn’t last long there and soon died. Whether it was the loss of his friends, or more probably his age which caused him to die, we will never know. He was buried with his own gravestone in a pet cemetary in Essex.

News Stories

News Stories
There is a memorial plaque to Simon, at the P.D.S.A surgery in Durnford Street, Plymouth.

There is a memorial plaque to Simon, at the P.D.S.A surgery in Durnford Street, Plymouth.
There is a memorial plaque to Simon, at the P.D.S.A surgery in Durnford Street, Plymouth.

There is a memorial plaque to Simon, at the P.D.S.A surgery in Durnford Street, Plymouth.

Amethyst News Paper articles

'Amethyst'before all the troubles started

‘Amethyst’before all the troubles started

The whole Amethyst affair became a huge news story all over the world. Here are a few of those stories.

News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories
News Stories

News Stories

Boy Seaman, Sidney Horton’s Story

I am extremely grateful to Mrs Marlene Horton for allowing me to post her son’s letter, and for lending me the photos and video footage below Sydney Horton joined the Royal Navy on 15th July 1947 as a Boy Seaman. He did his basic training at H.M.S.Ganges (alas no more) and joined H.M.S.Norfolk. Sydney stayed in the Royal Navy for twelve years, bought himself out for a while and and then re-entered the Service for a few more years. When Sydney finally left he went to work for the Paper Converting Company, based in Plymouth for 28 years. Sadly, Sydney Horton died of Asbestosis on 28 January 1995.

Sid Horton with his family, on his return home.

Sid Horton with his family, on his return home.

Here is Sydney’s own description of what happened on H.M.S.Amethyst. Dear Sir, In answer to your request for any information regarding H.M.S. Amethyst, I will give you a build up of how I started my Naval service and ended up on the Amethyst. I Joined H.M.S. Ganges as a boy seaman on 15th July 1947, did my basic training and left there on 1st July 1948 to join H.M.S. Norfolk which was a 6 inch cruiser stationed on the East indies ( Tricomalee ) for a two and a half year commission. When Norfolk sailed for home waters on completion of her commission, 90 of her boy seamen were drafted to other ships, mainly in the Far East to complete their two and a half years.

H.M.S. Norfolk

H.M.S. Norfolk

Myself and fifteen other boy seamen ended up on our way to join H.M.S. Amethyst in the far East. We joined Amethyst in Hong Kong in March and sailed for Shanghi. We left for Nanking on the 19th April and anchored overnight with some Nationalist warships. Early next morning we got underway and proceeded up the river. Around nine o’clock we were closed up at action stations. My station was on ‘B’ 4 inch gun just below the bridge when I heard rifle fire and shortly after gunfire, and shell whooshed over the bows which had canvas Union Jacks draped over the sides, but luckily there had been no hits to the ship. About twenty minutes later there was more gunfire and this time shells hit the wheelhouse, the bridge and other parts of the ship, and within minutes the ship started to turn to port very quickly and ran aground on a small island known later as Rose Island. With the ship stuck on the mud of the Island ‘B’ guns crew were of no further use because the guns could not bear on the target. We dispersed as a crew and tried to be of help in other parts of the ship.

Effects of gunfire on 'Amethyst'.

Effects of gunfire on ‘Amethyst’.
Effects of gunfire on 'Amethyst'.

Effects of gunfire on ‘Amethyst’.

I found myself going up the wheelhouse steps and found the place in chaos. The Coxswain and telegraph men had all been hit leaving the second Coxswain the only man on his feet. There was an awful smell of smoke, and I helped to get the wounded down into the seamans mess deck, went back up to the bridge and helped to bring the injured men down below, noticing Lt. Berger had most of his clothes blown off by the blast. The ship by now could only defend herself with ‘X’ gun back aft, which she did until ‘X’ gun also had a direct hit. I found myself taking small arms up to the upper deck, and within minutes down below again because any movement on the upper deck was met with small arms fire from the shore. The upper deck was a shambles, there was bits of boat, bodies and wounded, who we took below to the messdeck. By now the ship reeked of smoke, cordite, sweat and blood.

Next came the order to abandon ship and take the wounded to the whaler to get them ashore out of the way, but even with men in the water following the whaler to the shore the small arms fire never ceased. My next job was down below tidying up the living quarters and tending to the wounded that was left onboard. I was given the job of lookout on ‘B’ gun deck, looking out for the destroyer Consort coming down from Nanking. What a thrill Consort gave me when i first sighted her, the gunner asked the signalman to flash her. On the way down towards us she opened fire to Port and I could see her hits on the gun positions on the banks, there was bits of everything flying in the air that was once gun emplacements. She came down to a position almost abreast of us and slowed down to make signals, then went down river to us and turned around and came back up never firing her guns to starboard, the sight of how calm and collected her crew were made me feel very proud to be British.

H.M.S. Black Swan H.M.S. Consort.

H.M.S. Black Swan H.M.S. Consort.
H.M.S. Black Swan H.M.S. Consort.

H.M.S. Black Swan H.M.S. Consort.

The Consort then turned around again and with a whacking great bow wave which was sweeping the banks away disappeared out of sight down river. Not long after a couple of nationalist fighter planes shot overhead and straffed the banks with what sounded like machine guns. My next job was helping to lighten the ship so as we could have a go at getting the ship off the mud. We looked at anything of weight, and if it moved, threw it over the side, and by this means, plus pumping oil over the side we managed to free the ship from the mud and moved a couple of miles up river and anchored. My next task was helping tidy up the ship and the awful task of collecting the dead from around the ship from around the ship and placing them on ‘X’ gun deck, this was made easier by a couple of tots of spirits.

Sydney's medals,with the famous telegram, and the return home.

Sydney’s medals,with the famous telegram, and the return home.
Sydney's medals,with the famous telegram, and the return home.

Sydney’s medals,with the famous telegram, and the return home.

My next thrill was being told that the cruiser London, and the frigate Black Swan were on their way up river to help us out. I had heard the sound of distant gunfire, but this came to nothing because both ships had come into heavy gunfire. When the London and Black Swan failed to reach us just about everyone left on board felt utterly dejected. There were rumours about submarines and aircraft trying to help us, and to our surprise a Sunderland flying boat circled us then landed and left us a doctor and medical supplies, but left us minus our ships gunner.

H.M.S. London

H.M.S. London

We next moved further up river and re- anchored where the new Captain of our ship came aboard from a Nationalist landing craft. He walked around and assessed the damage to the ship and almost right away arranged the burial of our dead into the Yangste river . A couple of times after this we were told to be ready to abandon ship, the Captain had charges placed and had plans to scuttle the ship seeing we never had enough boats to row ashore.

We watched the Communist Army make its crossing of the river in every boat imaginable, then for week upon week we fell into a ships routine again, tidying up, making different parts of the ship better to live in, and better protected against shrapnel and small arms fire if that arose. Over this period the Captain had been in touch with the Army ashore, and our ‘Jack Dusty’ had been able to procure eggs and fresh vegetables with bartering against a trader from ashore. One afternoon I was working on the cable deck, forward, making an adjustment to a steel cable holding a bolt of timber between the ships bows and the anchor chain, when the cable suddenly came under load and broke my right arm at the elbow.

Sid with broken right arm.

Sid with broken right arm.
Sid with broken right arm.

Sid with broken right arm.

A couple of weeks after breaking my arm, I was sent ashore with the R.A.F. Doctor and given an X ray, and returned back on board. When the captain decided to make a break for it, I and one other was stationed back aft in the tiller flat to steer the ship if the wheelhouse was hit on the way down. The ship reached Woosung, and was met by the destroyer Concord, and on coming up from below what a beautiful sight she made and what a lovely feeling it was to feel free at last. After much cheering, laughing and shouting, we headed for Hong Kong.

H.M.S. Amethyst and the Yangste Incident

H.M.S. Amethyst

H.M.S. Amethyst

photo courtesy navy-photos and M.Pocock

Ask most people over Fifty years of age about the Yangtze incident, and they will tell you about the film staring Richard Todd, in which he Captain’s H.M.S. Amethyst through shot and shell from the Communist Chinese, and eventually wins home to freedom down the River Yangtze. It’s a typical story of its time about plucky Brits defying great odds and the film was a great success. The real story is even more startling for the hardships and bravery suffered by the crew, who had no realistic hope of escape, but kept the faith even though many had died, and eventually they arrived home to a tumultuous welcome.

Film Poster

Film Poster

It is hard to believe that after all the Amethyst had done that she should end up being scrapped alongside one of Plymouths most popular pubs, the China House. But all ships eventually have to die, only their story lives on and what a story it is. There are four articles about the ‘Amethyst’ including a first hand account from the youngest crew member, Boy seaman Sidney Horton.

  • H.M.S. Amethyst
  • Boy Seaman Sidney Hortons Story
  • Simon the Cat
  • Amethyst News Paper stories

Sutton Hoo

Sutton Hoo A few years ago I was visiting the British Museum in London when I found that they were having a touchy feely day. This is when the curators get out some of their great treasures and allow members of the public to hold and touch them. One of the objects that I was allowed to hold was a sword from the Sutton Hoo treasure, a vast Anglo Saxon ship burial hoard that had been found encased in an earth mound in Suffolk overlooking the river Deben and the town of Woodbridge.

The iconic helmet

The iconic helmet

Upstairs they had the whole treasure including the Iconic helmet that the great Anglo Saxon king wore in battle. To see the helmet, which incidentally, was in pieces when they found it, and to hold the great sword dating from the 7th century was a strange and exciting experience. For them to survive at all, down through the passage of so many years is astonishing enough, but more to the point is the light that these objects shine on a period of our English history that is not truly understood and often drifts between fact and myth. So what is Sutton Hoo, and how did it come to give up its secrets? At the least, Sutton Hoo is a large burial ground. As far back as the 6th century and probably before, noble and eminent people had been buried in barrows or large earthen mounds, often with their possessions and sometimes with their favorite horse. Many of these mounds can still be seen today although much reduced by the passage of time and agricultural activity. One mound, but not the one with the boat, has been restored to its proper height and so gives a good indication of what the whole site must have looked like.

Restored Mound.

Restored Mound.
Restored Mound.

Restored Mound.

That the burial was discovered at all was down to the enthusiasm of the landowner, Mrs. Edith Pretty. Inspired by a recent trip to Egypt she came back full of curiosity about what was in the barrows. She thought there might be something historically interesting buried in them but was completely unprepared for what was eventually found, a wonderful funnery treasure, complete with a 27 meter, long ship. It was one of the greatest discoveries ever found in England.

Mrs.Edith Pretty

Mrs.Edith Pretty

It is generally agreed that the person occupying the burial long ship was Raedwald, a 7th century King of East Anglia, which today would have included the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. He reigned from 599 till his death in 624 and from about 616 he was the most powerful of the English kings south of the River Humber. Raedwald was the first East Anglian King to convert to Christianity, although he still kept a temple to the Old Gods, and the Venerable Bede mentions him as the fourth ruler to hold Imperium over other southern Anglo Saxon Kingdoms. The Anglo Saxon Chronicle, written centuries after his death refer to him as a Bretwalda, an Old English term meaning Britain Ruler or Wide Ruler.

Reconstruction of the burial chamber.

Reconstruction of the burial chamber.

In order to get the dig started Mrs. Pretty asked Guy Maynard the Curator of Ipswich Museum for advice and he referred her to Basil Brown an archeologist familiar with the area. After much discussion it was decided to dig in Mound 3, even though Mrs. Pretty herself favored Mound 1. Because there was so much earth to be moved Mrs. Pretty volunteered the services of her gardener, John Jacobs, and her gamekeeper William Spencer. Even with the three of them the task was enormous. The mound was 25 meters wide and nearly 1.5 meters high. Basil started by digging an exploratory trench from west to east and when he got to the center of the mound he dug down 2 meters and came across the remains of a human skeleton and the bones of a horse together with axes and a jug. That was all they found in the rest of the mound, but Basil was interested enough to have a go at Mound 2. Here he carried out more or less the same methods and again digging down near the center he found a Saxon grave that had been ransacked with all the objects removed. The grave robbers had made a complete mess of the tomb and the incumbent had disappeared. Even so Basil Brown found some silver shield adornments and bits of silver gilt for horn cup decorations, as well as a blue glass jar and a couple of iron blades.

Grave with person and horse.

Grave with person and horse.

Undaunted Basil still toiled on and excavated Mound 4. This was the most disappointing one yet. All he found were some cremated bones and some bronze fragments together with some material of good quality which indicated that the tomb had been intended for somebody of high standing. Later studies of the bones showed that they were of a young adult and a horse. By now it was 1939 and war clouds were gathering ominously over England. As the summer approached, Basil Brown realized that with a War imminent Mound 1 needed to be excavated, and the work would have to be done quickly. Mrs. Pretty, for her part had always wanted to see what was in Mound 1 so she was happy to once again sponsor the dig.

Some of the wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

Some of the wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.
Some of the wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

Some of the wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

Once again Basil used the same methods that had served him well with the other mounds. Very soon he discovered an iron rivet and thought idly that this might indicate a Saxon ship buried in the mound. Happily he moved methodically towards the center and after only two hours he found himself removing earth from what looked like the bow or stern of a ship. This is the moment that Basil Brown came into his own and frankly saved this great find from being completely ruined. Basil has often been depicted as a plodding amateur, using archeological techniques that nowadays would be treated with contempt by the experts. However he was very methodical and what’s more had great experience of the area and was very conversant with the effects of sandy acid soils on bio-degradable materials such as those to be found at Sutton Hoo. Because of this knowledge he quickly realized that none of the wood had survived the centuries, but what had survived were their imprint and the rivets that had held it all together, they were still in their original places.

Front to back,Charles Philips, Miss. Wagstaff, 'George', Basil B

Front to back,Charles Philips, Miss. Wagstaff, ‘George’, Basil B

With much painstaking work, gently removing the top layer of soil and following the lines of rivets, the full wonder of the ship became apparent. The timbers had rotted, and the by the process of oxidization had diffused into the sand creating a sort of fossilized cast that virtually showed the complete construction of the ship which appeared to be what we would know today as clinker built with the planks overlapped and riveted. The vessel had 26bulkheads and was over 27 meters long with a beam of 4.5 meters. A later survey suggested that the ship had been propelled by 40 oarsmen, 20 on each side. Because of its shallow draft it was assumed that the boat would have been used to carry goods along rivers and estuary’s rather than longer sea crossings, as fully laden it would have had hardly any freeboard and therefore would have been unseaworthy and difficult to handle in rough seas. There were also signs that repairs had been made to the hull, so this ship was not purpose built as a burial ship, but rather used for that purpose as necessary.

The dig.

The dig.

As the dig progressed poles were placed on top of the mound over the ship, so that Basil could work from a swing, thus avoiding damaging the ship. As they finished with one part of the ship, Basil and his helpers, recovered it with a layer of sand. As the ship became more and more uncovered, and the excavation approached the center of the mound, Basil came across signs of an earlier excavation. Here the refilled pit had only gone down 3 meters and Basil calculated that it had not reached the ship. For the first time Basil Brown allowed himself to contemplate the possibility that he might find a completely undisturbed burial chamber.

The rusting rivets that started the hunt.

The rusting rivets that started the hunt.

As the year turned to June and Basils methodical approach uncovered more and more of the ship, he must have been thinking endlessly about the burial chamber, and it is to his credit that he didn’t give in to temptation and rush straight for the prize. Unfortunately he was about to be robbed of the opportunity to find what he had strived for. By now word had leaked out about the Sutton Hoo ship and Guy Maynard the Curator from Ipswich decided that the dig should be put on a more academic footing. A team of leading archeologists led by Stuart Piggott were drafted in, and although Basil was retained, he was basically sidelined and left to do the donkey work while the experts got on with the detailed work. When it came to the burial chamber and all the other artifacts that were found, Basil Brown was forbidden to touch or remove any of them. This seems a bit harsh to me. Whilst it is true that Brown did not have the expertise to do the more delicate work and to take the excavation much further it must have hurt him deeply, especially as it was his knowledge and care that had led to the boat being discovered in the first place.

More wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

More wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.
More wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

More wonderfull jewelry in the hoard.

The burial chamber, situated between bulkheads 10 and 16 would have possibly had some sort of wooden roof over them to form a small cabin. In here would have been laid the King and his treasure. In the event all the wood and bones had rotted and oxidized into the soil so the shape of the chamber was hard to define, but there between bulkheads 10 and 16 was found the personal belongings of a very important person, King Raedwald. As the summer progressed and the outbreak of War came ever closer, all the finds were taken away to be put in storage for safe keeping. The site was recovered and as War became a reality research into Sutton Hoo tailed off. Many of the records and photographs were destroyed in the London Blitz, and because East Anglia was so flat, trenches were dug all over the place to deter German glider attacks. It seems impossible now, but two glider ditches were dug right through the Sutton Hoo site. Even more incredible, is the fact that the burial mounds were used for mortar practice. Well there was a War on, you know.

Plan showing glider trenches and the various burials.

Plan showing glider trenches and the various burials.

Amazingly after the War, and eight years since the treasure was uncovered, the site had survived well enough for the British Museum to send down a team under Bruce Mitford. He was even more methodical than Basil Brown had been, and wrote many books on the subject, some casting doubt on what the other experts had found. Even today that argument is ongoing. However one thing is very clear to me. Without Basil Brown and the enthusiasm of Mrs. Pretty, nothing would have been done. They discovered the ship. You can’t argue with that.

Basil Brown's work room.

Basil Brown’s work room.
Basil Brown's work room.

Basil Brown’s work room.

So who owned all the artifacts, and how did the ship get into the mound? Well the ship appears to have been dragged up the valley from the River Deben. That must have taken many men and a huge amount of effort. The ship was then buried with the King and a large mound raised over it. The artifacts were awarded to Mrs. Pretty as they were not considered to be Treasure Trove (the law can be very complex on this issue) The academics were dumbstruck as they thought they should have them. In the event Mrs. Pretty donated the whole lot to the Nation and gave Sutton Hoo to the National Trust so that you can visit it today.

You can see how far it is to the burial mounds.

You can see how far it is to the burial mounds.

What’s there? Well, earth covered burial mounds, and a lot of sheep, set in wonderful picturesque countryside overlooking the River Deben. You can also wander around Mrs. Pretty’s house, and see Basil Brown’s work room. It all sounds a bit tame, but it really is a great day out. The National Trust has done a great job with the interpretation center and has had some wonderful replicas made of the treasure. Mind, you ought to go to see the real thing at the British Museum. Also it is very atmospheric to walk in the footsteps of those far off Kings, along land that hardly seems to have changed down the centuries. To see their burial mounds is quite comforting, as it gives a sense of timeless continuity,that in some way, seems to be so typically British. There is a great progam by the BBC called Chronicle, which did a program on Sutton Hoo in 1989. it is well worth watching. Just click the link below.

Chronicle/Sutton Hoo

How to get to Sutton Hoo


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H.M.S. Belfast

I must confess that I have a personal attachment to H.M.S. Belfast, as in 1964 I was doing my seaman ship training at H.M.S. Bellerophen in Portsmouth, where the Belfast was used as an accommodation ship. I slung my hammock in the rear mess deck and so got my introduction to life aboard ship. H.M.S.Belfast was a heavily armed light cruiser of the Southamton class. Originally she displaced 10,000 tons, but later, in 1942, after a slight mishap with a mine she was ‘bulged’ amidships and so her displacement increased to 11,500 tons.

H.M.S.Belfast at Tower Bridge

H.M.S.Belfast at Tower Bridge

Originally she was to have had sixteen, six inch guns, in quadruple turrets, which was the maximum allowed under the terms of the ‘Washington Treaty’. Unfortunately it was found to be impossible to manufacture an effective quadruple gun mounting due to ballistic problems with the ammunition, so they reverted to triple mountings that were already in use on other Southampton cruisers. The extra space was later filled up with anti aircraft guns, and for a short time she had a small seaplane to help with spotting the enemy. Radar later made this obsolete

Belfast with her Walrus

Belfast with her Walrus
photo courtesy Navy-Photos

Belfast was built, appropriately at the great Belfast shipyard of Harland and Wolf (home to the Titanic), and was launched on 17 march 1938. Ironically this great warship was launched by Anne Chamberlain, the wife of The Prime Minister Neville, famous for his speech about ‘peace in our time’. The following year War broke out and Belfast became part of the 18th Cruiser Squadron operating from the Royal Navy’s great anchorage at Scapa Flow in the Orkneys.

Belfast comes alongside USS. Bataan off Korea, May 1952

Belfast comes alongside USS. Bataan off Korea, May 1952
Photo courtesy Navy- Photos

The Royal Navy was trying to impose a blockade on Germany to stop it receiving’ war materials’ and constantly patrolled the Northern waters. An early success came when the Belfast intercepted the German liner S.S. Cape Norte, disguised as a neutral ship. She was full of armed forces reservists trying to get back to Germany to rejoin their units. Shortly after this success, came disaster, when Belfast hit a mine off the Firth of Forth. Mercifully casualties were slight but the ship broke her back and was so severely damaged that she seemed destined for the scrap heap. However naval architects were convinced that she could be repaired but it took nearly three years before she was ready to rejoin the Fleet. During her repairs she had been completely refitted with all the latest gear, including radar and a much improved fire control system and by the time she returned to active duty she was the most powerful cruiser in the Fleet.

Forward Gun Turrets.

Forward Gun Turrets.

In 1943 she spent most of her time in the icy waters of the Artic as part of the 10th Cruiser Squadron, protecting convoys taking vital supplies to Russia. At the end of that year, on Christmas Day 1943 the German battleship Scharnhorst accompanied by her escort of five destroyers, swept out into the north Cape to attack the convoys rounding the northern tip of Norway. Unknown to her captain, British Intelligence were deciphering all her signals which enabled the Royal navy to lay a trap for her. Whilst Belfast along with the cruisers Norfolk and Sheffield screened the convoys and thereby kept Scharnhorst in action, Admiral Frazer, in the battleship Duke of York, accompanied by the cruisers Jamaica and four destroyers tried to cut her off from the South.

Artic Conditions

Artic Conditions

Meanwhile, due to the extreme weather, Scharnhorst had sent her destroyers back to base and came across the British cruisers. Norfolk struck first with a direct hit from one of her eight inch shells causing Scharnhorst to retreat with Belfast and Sheffield in hot pursuit driving the enemy battleship towards Admiral Frazer’s Duke of York with her mighty fourteen inch guns. As soon as radar contact was established the Duke of York opened fire and hit the Scharnhorst with her first salvo. Severely damaged the Scharnhorst tried to flee but could not shake off the British vessels. Now hit by three torpedoes, the Scharnhorst was dead in the water and as the smoke cleared away Belfast and Jamaica were ordered to finish her. As the Belfast fired the Scharnhorst blew up and quickly sank into the icy waters. Of her crew of 1,963 men only 36 were saved.

Photo courtesy Bob Hanley

Photo courtesy Bob Hanley
& Navy-Photos

In March 1944, Belfast in company with a powerful force of Battleships and Carriers took part in ‘Operation Tungsten’. Their objective was the destruction of the Tirpitz, Germany’s last surviving battleship, which was holed up in Altenfjord in Northern Norway. Approaching to within 120 miles of the coast they launched a huge airstrike hitting the Tirpitz with 15 bombs. The battleship survived but was so badly damaged that it could not put to sea for many months. She was finally destroyed by heavy bombers from 617 Squadron R.A.F. in November 1944. On June 6th 1944 the D-Day landings started, with Belfast in the thick of the action as part of a Naval bombardment in support of the Canadians on Gold and Juno beaches. Over the course of the next five weeks Belfast fired thousands of rounds, and by July 1945 the Allies had moved well in land, out of the range of the Belfast.

My introduction to life aboard ship-broadside messing.

My introduction to life aboard ship-broadside messing.

By the time she got there the Atomic Bomb had been dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki and flattened Japan into unconditional surrender. Belfast contented herself with peacekeeping operation and by helping to evacuate the survivors from the prisoner of war camps. By the end of 1947 Belfast returned to England for another refit and when that was finished she went back to the far east as the Flag Ship of the 5th Cruiser Squadron. China was now in great turmoil with the forces of Mao Zedong (he of the little Red Book) in ascendance over the nationalist government. Around this time the Yangtze Incident took place with H.M.S. Amethyst being disabled and blockaded by the Chinese Communists with heavy loss of life. She eventually escaped to win through back to a hero’s welcome in England, but not before she and H.M.S. Belfast had done another job.

Inside the gun turret.

Inside the gun turret.

By the start of 1950 the ancient kingdom of Korea was split between a hard line Communist regime in the North and a more moderate government supported by the United States of America in the South. The stage was set for another world war but some sort of reason prevailed, even though there was fierce fighting when China invaded, forcing the UN troops to retreat and by the Summer of 1951 both sides had settled down to a war of attrition along the line of the 38th Parallel. After two years of negotiations a Cease fire brought the fighting to an end in July 1953. Even so no formal peace treaty has ever been signed. H.M.S. Belfast was one of the first British ships to go into action bombarding in support of the retreating South Korean and American troops. On the night of 15 July 1952 Belfast teamed up with Amethyst to help capture the strategically important island of Changni-Do. After spending 404 days on active patrol during the Korean War, Belfast sailed for home, where she had another refit and extensive modernisation. Although the day of the big gun was passing, the Navy still needed ‘big’ ships, to show the flag around the world. However as the old Empire disappeared, the need for a large peacetime Navy dwindled. After a last exercise in the Mediterranean in 1963 Belfast was paid off into the Reserve and classified as a harbour accommodation ship.

Anti aircraft guns.

Anti aircraft guns.

Thankfully Belfast was to be spared the indignity of the breakers yard, because as early as 1967 the Imperial War Museum had investigated the possibility of preserving the ship. As ever the Government of the day refused to help, so the Museum encouraged an independent trust, led by one of the ship’s ex captains, Rear Admiral Sir Morgan-Giles. Eventually she was brought in triumph to London and opened to visitors on Trafalgar day 21 October 1971. So what’s it like to visit? Well much to my surprise I loved it. I often find that this sort of exhibit is deadly dull, it’s as if all the life has been sucked out of it, but the Belfast is a revelation in how to do it. The ship itself has been beautifully preserved often with ex crew members helping out and the love shows. For me it was like stepping back in time and all my memories came flooding back.

Welcome to Belfast.

Welcome to Belfast.

We spent over two hours there and still didn’t see it all because my wife bulked at climbing down into the engine room, which I must admit looked quite a long way down, so I saved it for another day. In the various parts of the ship, like the galley and hospital, they have very realistic dummies illustrating what’s going on, and quite often you see visitors asking them a question before realising their mistake. In various compartments they have more on the history of the ship with video and photos. Up on deck you can go into the turrets and look at all the gun machinery. There is plenty to see and it’s all been done wonderfully. The Belfast is moored near Tower bridge next to a galleria with lots of restaurants, pubs and coffee shops. You can also take a walk along the Thames on the new (to me) riverside walkways. It’s a great day out, and you will want to go back, because they have caught the essence of this great ship, she is still alive, and that is a great achievement.


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H.M.S. Amethyst

Amethyst before the trouble started.

Amethyst before the trouble started.
photo courtesy navy-photos

H.M.S. Amethyst was a modified Black Swan class sloop built by Alexander Stevens and Sons in Govern Scotland and launched in 1943. During the Second World War she made her mark by depth charging and sinking U1276. After the war she was re-classed as a frigate, renumbered as F116 and in 1949 found herself based at Shanghai. At the time there was a civil war going on in China between the Chinese Communists and the Kuomintang. The British Embassy was at Nanking, and because of all the fighting H.M.S.Consort was standing by as guard ship. On the 20 April 1949 the Amethyst was ordered to proceed up the Yangtze to Nanking to relieve Consort and prepare to evacuate all British citizens that were being caught up in the advance of the Chinese Communist Forces. She travelled in company with Kuomintang warships, who busily shelled any enemy batteries that they could spot, causing over 200 casualties. According to the Communists, the Amethyst was also firing, a statement that later, the Amethyst strongly denied. In any event, at 0800 hours, a Communist field gun battery on the north bank of the river fired a salvo of ten shells that fell short of the Amethyst and were assumed to be part of the regular shelling of the Nationalist forces on the other bank.

The Amethyst increased her speed and unfurled two huge battle flags to show her identity. The firing stopped, but an hour later as she was approaching Kiangyin further upriver, another battery opened fire hitting the wheelhouse and killing the Coxn. Another shell burst on the bridge, mortally wounding the Captain Lt.Commander B.M. Skinner and injuring the First Lt. Geoffrey Weston. In the ensuing confusion the ship ran aground on Rose Island and as the shelling continued the sickbay was hit, along with the port engine room and the main generator, but not before the injured Weston managed to get of a signal saying that they were aground and under heavy fire. By now the gyro compass was disabled and due to the lack of power the electrical firing circuits were inoperable leaving the Amethyst a helpless target.

17 Mess and Royal Marine Gunners. Photos courtesy of Lawrence Ives

17 Mess and Royal Marine Gunners. Photos courtesy of Lawrence Ives
17 Mess and Royal Marine Gunners. Photos courtesy of Lawrence Ives

17 Mess and Royal Marine Gunners. Photos courtesy of Lawrence Ives

Due to the way the ship had grounded, the two front turrets were unable to bear, so the rear turret fired over thirty rounds at the batteries until it was hit, knocking out one of its guns. The remaining gun carried on firing but Weston ordered it to stop as he thought that might cause the battery to cease firing. It was a vain hope. The shore batteries stepped up their fire with both heavy and light artillery causing more casualties and extensive damage to the ship. Weston prepared for the worst by arming the rest of the crew with rifles and Bren Guns to prepare to repel boarders.

Glamour Boys

Glamour Boys

By 10-30 hours no attempt had been made to board the ship, but the shelling and small arms fire carried on unabated. Lt.Com. Weston decided to evacuate as many of the crew as he could to the opposite bank of the river which was controlled by the Kuomintang. Everybody who could swim was ordered over the side, whilst the walking wounded and non swimmers were squeezed in the one remaining boat. Fifty nine ratings and four Chinese mess boys made it to safety, but several more were cut down in the water by machine gun and artillery fire. Those that made it were taken to a Nationalist Hospital and then trucked back to Shanghai. Left on board the Amethyst were forty able bodied men, twelve wounded and fifteen dead. By now the shelling had stopped but everybody had to stay under cover because of the snipers. By the time the shelling stopped at 11-00 hours the casualty list had grown to twenty two men dead and 31 wounded. In all the Amethyst had received over fifty hits mostly below the water line which the crew franticly plugged with hammocks and anything else that came to hand.

Amethyst on Marrowbone Slip

Amethyst on Marrowbone Slip
The same area today

The same area today
photo courtesy navy-photos

While this was happening H.M.S.Consort was seen steaming towards them at twenty nine knots displaying seven White Ensigns and three Union flags. She came under heavy fire but managed to opened fire and destroy some of the batteries as she tried to take Amethyst under tow. However the heavy shelling made this task impossible, so the Consort had to abandon her efforts and retire having suffered ten men killed and three wounded.

Lt. Commander Kerans

Lt. Commander Kerans

All efforts were now concentrated in trying to get the ship afloat. Everything that could be removed was jettisoned to make the ship lighter, and on April 26, after being aground for six days, the ship was floated of in the dead of night and moved up river to Fu Te Wei. However she couldn’t stay there, so H.M.S. London and H.M.S. Black Swan were sent to escort her down river. Before they got to her, they came under very heavy fire from batteries near Bate Point causing considerable damage to both ships. London was holed in twelve places and lost twelve killed and twenty wounded. Black Swan had seven wounded so it was decided to disengage and return down river to safety. Amethyst removed the worst of her wounded by sampan and went a further ten miles upstream where she anchored and received her new Captain, the British Naval Attache, Lt.Commander J.S.Kerans, who immediately started negotiations with the Communists. These proved largely futile as the Chinese wanted an admission that Amethyst had fired first, which of course the British couldn’t agree to. So months passed while the Chinese took over the whole area, and refused to give the ship and crew vital supplies.

By July things were getting increasingly desperate on the ship and it was becoming obvious that they could all die stuck in the Yangtze, or try to make a run for it. It was a risky decision but on the 31st July Lt. Commander Kerans slipped the mooring cable and slid down the river to start her one hundred and four mile dash for freedom. Running the gauntlet of enemy guns now on both sides of the river she steamed resolutely forward ,streaming black smoke during the worst of the shelling to confuse the Chinese gunners. By 0500 hours she was coming up to the forts that guarded the entrance to the open sea. H.M.S. Amethyst, swept by brilliant searchlights for the batteries on the forts, ploughed on at full speed to the mouth of the river where she met H.M.S.Consort and made her famous signal ‘have rejoined the fleet off Woosung—God save the King.

Nowadays Sutton Harbour is a bustling marina with lots of new waterside apartments and restaurants, and bears little resemblance to the harbour when the Amethyst came to her final rest on Marrowbone Slip. Just a short walk away is the historic Barbican where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for the New World, and is full of old Pubs and art gallery’s. The fish quay has been moved across the pool near the Marine Aquarium, and with it went some of the character of the Barbican. Still it’s a fine place to see all the boats sailing in and out, and if you walk up the hill, you soon come to Plymouth Hoe with its wonderful panorama of Plymouth Sound. There is so much history here, from Drake, to the Warships still carrying our soldiers to fight in foreign lands. Much has been forgotten, like the Amethyst, but still, a walk around where she was, can still conjure up memories of brave deeds done, and after all’s said and done, that is all that will be left, just memories.


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Afterwards refresh yourself in the China House where they have a good selection of photos to show you what the old Barbican looked like.

The Egyptian Sola Boat

Five thousand years ago when we were all running around trying to invent the mud hut, Egypt was the dominant World power and one of the earliest cultured civilizations of the ancient world. Amongst their many achievements were the earliest agricultural practices and by solar observation the invention of a 365 day year divided into months and weeks. Besides using a great variety of tools, for instance they used huge bronze saws with jewelled cutting points to cut the huge stones used for the Pyramids, the Egyptians also knew how to melt and form copper, mine gold and craft exquisite jewellery. However to most of us they are most famous for their fantastic funereal and burial rites. Nearly everyone has heard of the boy king Tutankhamun and the marvellous treasure placed in his tomb. But this pales into insignificance against one of the true wonders of the world, the Great Pyramid of Cheops at Giza.

The Great Pyramid with the Sola Boat museum in front.

The Great Pyramid with the Sola Boat museum in front.

Built around 2589 BC as the tomb of Pharoah Cheops, it was constructed to survive all humanity, to defy time itself. Although it’s a bit rough around the edges (originally the pyramid would have been sheathed in marble) its sheer monumental scale completely transcends its tacky surroundings at the edge of Cairo and truly awes the insignificant spectator.

This is the only known image of Cheops.

This is the only known image of Cheops.

Not a lot is known about Cheops (he was also known as Kaufu) as his tomb was robbed long before archaeologist ever heard about him. He was the second Pharoah of the fourth dynasty and ruled from about 2589 BC to 2566 BC. He must have been extremely rich and powerful to organize such an undertaking as the pyramid, and contrary to popular belief most Egyptologists now think that much of the work was done by free craftsmen not slaves, as the level of workmanship is too great to have just been done by brutalizes slaves.

Chepren's Pyramid and The Spinx.

Chepren’s Pyramid and The Spinx.

Cheops had nine sons, and was succeeded by his eldest Djedefre who only reigned briefly, and in his turn was succeeded by Chephren who built another Pyramid next to his father’s and then created the largest and most famous sculpture of all time, the Great Spinx which has Chephen’s head on the body of a recumbent lion.

Kamal el Mallakn.

Kamal el Mallakn.

It was customary to bury funerary boats near the burial tomb so that the Pharoah in his afterlife could sail in his domain along the Nile, or in his incarnation as the Sun God, travel on his daily journey across the sky. Several empty ones were found scattered about but it was not until 1954, forty six centuries after Cheops built his Pyramid, that a complete boat was uncovered. The discovery was made by archaeologist Kamal el Mallakh and Inspector Zaki Nur. They found an air and watertight rectangular pit 31m long and 6m deep on the southern side of the Great Pyramid covered by 41 limestone blocks each weighing 16 tons.

The Boat pit

The Boat pit

Inside the bit was a dismantled cedar wood boat, which when finally assembled was 13m longer than the pit it was found in. The boat was stored in 13 layers of planks and comprised 1224 separate pieces of wood, the longest being 21m and the shortest 10cm. The original builders had marked the main parts of the boat in hieratic script (bow, stern, bridge, etc) but even so all the pieces had to be laboriously recorded and still it took 14 years to reassemble the boat.

Front view of The Solar Boat. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

Front view of The Solar Boat. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

It was worth the wait because what they got was a 43.5m long boat, flat bottomed, with a massive flared hull. The planks were ‘sewn’ together with a system of ropes looped through holes that met on the inside and on the deck was a small forward cabin with the royal cabin amidships. Propulsion was by ten oars and the boat was steered by means of two large oar rudders. The soaring bow and stern posts were in the form of papyrus bud finial which gave the whole boat its regal air. It also looks curiously familiar to anyone who followed Thor Heyerdahls’ epic adventure in Ra, as this cedar wood boat is a wooden copy of a papyrus reed boat dating back to the pre-dynastic period.

Thor Heyerdahl's Ra.

Thor Heyerdahl’s Ra.

Conserving the boat caused huge problems, but the museum to display it caused even more. It’s a huge glass and concrete structure slap bang in front of the great Pyramid and right from the start nobody liked it, and it failed to do its job properly. The huge double glazing kept the direct sunshine out, but the special sun screen created a hot house effect which raised the temperature to nearly 40c.

View underneath the boat. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

View underneath the boat. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

It was dangerous for the boat, the heat caused it to expand and contract,and the tourists hated the heat and humidity. Fans were installed but did little except move around the turbid air. Air conditioning was installed but was either to hot or cold and the way the visitors were controlled caused some damage to the boat. The wrangling in committee went on for years and although things are much improved (I saw it 2009) experts are still not happy and so a digital map of the boat is being made to try and keep tabs on its deterioration.

Side view showing cabin and oars. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

Side view showing cabin and oars. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

Inside you certainly get a good view of the boat from all angles as the galleries are built on different levels. There is plenty to see on the discovery and how the boat was put together and conserved, they also have the pit where the boat was found. The boat is orientated as it was found with its bow pointing to the west to follow the sun god Ra on his daytime journey westward across the skies, and during his night time journey beneath the earth. Analysis of the water content of the wood suggests that the boat might well have been used to transport Cheop’s body on his funeral procession down the Nile from Memphis to Giza ( in those days the course of the Nile was much closer to the Pyramids)

The bow showing a smaller cabin, possibly for the Capt. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

The bow showing a smaller cabin, possibly for the Capt. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

Whist you can’t really call this marine archaeology, I have included this boat because it is the oldest boat ever found, some 4500 years old. Its story, plus its proximity to the last great wonder of the ancient world, The Great Pyramids makes it a fascinating artefact to see, and brings all those Wilbur Smith novels to dramatic life.

The stern is like a papyrus stalk. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

The stern is like a papyrus stalk. Photo Joyce Mitchell.

The Jesus Boat

One of the most controversial persons of all time was the man they call Jesus of Nazareth, better known to his millions of followers around the world as Jesus Christ. For over two thousand years the religion that he founded has given hope and peace to many, but has also been the cause of countless wars with men, often on opposing sides, gladly laying down their lives in His name. On the plus side, churches and art of aching beauty have been created over the centuries in His honour, and His creed of peace, forgiveness, and love have become the cornerstone of most civilized nations. Believe in Him or not, what I have always found fascinating is that behind all the miracles and myths, Jesus of Nazareth was a real person. You can actually track him in the historical record. He did exist. The Romans thought He was a revolutionary, and they did put Him to death.

The Sea of Galilee from the Mount of Beatitudes

The Sea of Galilee from the Mount of Beatitudes

Some of Jesus’ most famous sermons and miracles were carried out around the Sea of Galilee, and often he would use a small fishing boat as a platform to address the multitudes on the shore and to traverse parts of the lake. None of these types of boat had ever been found until 1986, when two brothers, Moshe and Yuval Lufan from the Kibbutz Ginosar went for a stroll along the shore of the Lake. Due to an exceptional drought, areas of the Lake that were usually underwater were now exposed, and it was then that the brothers saw the unmistakeable outline of a small boat. They immediately rushed back to inform the head of the Kibbutz who after taking a detailed look decided to inform the Israel Dept of Antiquities.

Moshe and Yuval.

Moshe and Yuval.

An initial examination discovered that the boat had mortise and tenon joints, a method of construction used in the Mediterranean as early as the Second Millennium BCE, to the end of the Roman period. In order to disturb the boat as little as possible, a probe excavation was carried out which revealed that because the boat had been submerged in mud for so long, its wood was preserved in pretty good condition. Another exciting discovery were two cooking pots near the prow that could be tentatively dated to the mid first century CE. However it was impossible to say if they were off the boat or had just washed up nearby and therefore had no connection.

Cooking pot and nails found near the boat.

Cooking pot and nails found near the boat.

The boat seemed to be 8.2 metres long and 2.3 metres wide, and although preserved in good condition, the wood was completely waterlogged and spongy and could not possibly support its own weight if the Dept wanted to lift it. Lifting the boat was becoming a priority as the drought had lifted and the water level was now starting to rise threatening to renumbered the boat. The answer was to build a dyke around the boat to keep the water out, excavate around the clock, and come up with a way of lifting the boat without destroying it. As the boat emerged from the mud it had to be sprayed continuously with water and protected from direct sun in order to stop the wood from drying right out and crumbling. The aim was to excavate and lift the boat as quickly as possible and then plunge it straight back into water under controlled conditions.

Getting ready to lift the boat.

Getting ready to lift the boat.

The trouble was nobody had figured out how to lift the boat. One way was just to completely dismantle the boat and then rebuild it. Nobody liked that idea, so in the end a rather ad hoc scheme of off fibre glass ribs inserted between the original frames was adopted, and then the boat was filled with polyurethane foam. Tunnels were dug underneath the boat and more fibre glass ribs were inserted which were joined to the other ribs and a cage of the same material was constructed along the upper edge of off the boat. The tunnels were then filled with more foam, which when it hardened, served as the external supports for the boat. The remaining mud was dug out and then the whole craft was sprayed again with polyurethane foam. It had all taken eleven days.

Just a blob of foam.

Just a blob of foam.

The dyke was broken and the boat took its first journey for two thousand years, floating on the sea of Galilee and being towed the three hundred metres to the Kibbutz Ginosar ready for its conservation. Although it had taken only eleven days to excavate the vessel, it was to be fourteen long years of treatment before the boat was ready to be displayed. The initial study of the Galilee boat reinforced the first assessment that they had got something special, and whilst elements of its construction were the same as other Mediterranean boats of the classical period, some were unique to boats from this inland lake. Most of the planks that make up the boat were of cedar and about 3cm thick. The keel and planking had been edge joined in the classical manner using mortise and tenon joints, locked in place with tapered hardwood pegs. The transverse support frames were made from naturally curved oak branches (much like our wooden warships, albeit on a smaller scale) and the planking was fastened to them with iron nails.

This is what the complete boat would have looked like.

This is what the complete boat would have looked like.

The boats design, a deep rounded stern and a fine bow seem different to anything else recorded archeologically, although there are plenty of artistic representations of boats that look exactly like this one. While all of this was fascinating, what really sparked the most interest was the fact that whilst this boat had been initially made by skilled shipwrights, over its long life maybe as long as two or three generations, it had been repaired many times with all sorts of wood (twelve different types) with different degrees of skill, and often the planks had been refastened with just ordinary domestic nails. In the end the boat became worthless and was abandoned where it was discovered, after its stem, stern and most of any superstructure had been removed for use elsewhere.

Drying out the boat.

Drying out the boat.

The conservation process which was to take fourteen years, was complicated by the different types of wood and their water content. It was decided to use polyethylene glycol, a sort of synthetic wax which is available in a variety of molecule sizes. A two stage process using relatively small molecules,PEG6000, which would penetrate the wood cells and largely replace the water bonds with the cell walls would be started first, and when this stage was thought to be complete, the use of larger molecules, PEG0400, would then penetrate the wood cells, coating its surfaces and even filling them.

Front view of the boat in its cradle.

Front view of the boat in its cradle.

In order to do all this the boat was placed in a tiled reinforced concrete pool, the protective coat of polyurethane was carefully stripped away and the pool was filled with water at a temperature of 60f. The PEG was gradually (it required nearly forty tons of the stuff) introduced and the hole thing left to soak. Because of the iron nails and other bits and pieces an inhibitor had to be used to stop the P.E.G corroding them, and during the second stage an anti- oxidant was used to protect the molecular chains. Unfortunately this prompted a Bacterial attack which clouded the water and started to ferment it. The stink was appalling but after extensive research a pesticide was found that did the job and sterilized the pool. After years of soaking with the pool so dark that you couldn’t see the boat, the moment of truth finally arrived. The pool was drained and there at the bottom was the still intact boat.

Side view of the boat.

Side view of the boat.

It took a full year for the boat to completely dry out and the fact that it did with no cracks or distortion is a tribute to the skill and care of all concerned. In order to display the boat, the fibreglass ribs which were holding her in shape, were replaced with a stainless steel cradle which is not in the least intrusive. The boat is now the centre piece of the Man in Galilee exibition at the Yigal Allon Center where a new wing has been specially built to house it.

The outside of the hall is a bit brutal, but its great inside.

The outside of the hall is a bit brutal, but its great inside.

Although this cannot compete, with the Vasa or even the Viking Longship, this boat is worth seeing and worth preserving. Wheather you are a religious person or not, the fact that this boat was around when Christ walked the earth makes it special. Nobody who goes to the Sea of Galilee can fail to be moved by its beauty and its historical associations, and this boat gives you a tangible link with those far, far of days.

Submarine L1, and the Battle Ensign of H.M.S.Revenge

On the 29th March 1930, the submarine L 1 came adrift from its tow and drifted without fuss onto the rocks at Penanwell Cove, near Porth Nanven in Cornwall. The submarine, a veteran of the First World War, had been launched by Vickers at Barrow in 1917 and at the time of her stranding had been on tow from Chatham to Newport in Wales for the purpose of being broken up for scrap. It wasn’t worth trying to refloat the submarine, so she was scrapped where she lay.

The L1 stranded.

The L1 stranded.

Now I would have thought that any evidence of her would have disappeared after all these years, but not so. There is still quite a big piece of metal left half buried in the sand, so much in fact that the National Trust, who owns the Cove, have marked it with a buoy and put some warning notices up. You can’t really see anything until a spring low tide, and I arrived at the wrong time, because the tide was still going out. So is it worth the bother? Well yes it really is, and not just for the wreck.

Warning Sign

Warning Sign
Penanwell Cove

Penanwell Cove

Penawell Cove is a wild and beautiful place, only a mile or so from the dramatic Cape Cornwall, right in the middle of an old Cornish mining area. To find the Cove head straight to Porth Nanven, where there is a National Trust car park. (voluntary donations) the cove is the beach. All around are adits for mine shafts tunnelled right into the cliffs. Whilst the views are spectacular, the whole cove is something of a history lesson as its eroded banks show the tale of the global warming that happened after the last ice age.

The eroded cliff.

The eroded cliff.

Modern erosion has cut through the cliffs to form their present shape, but they also show you the granite cliffs, and the raised boulder beach of the warm climate 120,000 years ago. This is all overlaid by thick deposits of angular frost shattered rock, the remains of the permafrost flows of the ice age. The Trust has put up some helpful boards with all the info you need to know.

Looking towards Sennen.

Looking towards Sennen.
Adit cut into the cliff.

Adit cut into the cliff.

If you are feeling fit you can walk the mile or so over the cliffs to Cape Cornwall, or, (like me) drive the car down narrow winding lanes into a Cornwall that doesn’t seem to have changed much since the 1950’s. The scenery is stunning. In the distance you can see the ruined towers of the mine shafts, and in the foreground there is an ancient church surrounded by hugely horned cattle, and all around, the crash of waves on the rocks, and the cry of the seabirds. It’s marvellous.

St. Helens Oratory - Cape Cornwall.

St. Helens Oratory – Cape Cornwall.
St. Helens Oratory - Cape Cornwall.

St. Helens Oratory – Cape Cornwall.

Because I had got the tide wrong, I had a couple of hours to kill, so I drove back the nearest town, St. Just. It’s typically Cornish. Granite buildings grouped around a central square, a pasty shop, a couple of pubs, and now because of the tourists, a couple of gallery’s, an organic cafe and deli. It doesn’t sound much, but it’s charming and friendly, and for the Naval Enthusiast it harbours a big surprise.

H.M.S. Revenge

H.M.S. Revenge

The church of St. Just in Penwith lies just of the main square. There has been a church on this site since around 428 AD, and over the years bits have been rebuilt and changed especially in the 14th century. I always like looking around church yards because you so often find quite a lot of information about shipwrecks. I was unlucky outside, but inside was a revelation. Draped across the north corner of the church, near the bell tower, is the Battle Ensign of H.M.S.Revenge.

The Battle Ensign

The Battle Ensign

This flag was presented to the church by Captain Russell Grenfell. His family originated from the area, and as a junior officer he served on the battleship when it was part of the First Squadron of the Grand Fleet, and saw action at the Battle of Jutland. It was to the Revenge, that Vice- Admiral Burney transferred his Flag when his ship H.M.S. Malborough was torpedoed. The Revenge had been launched in May 1915 and served through-out both Wars and was finally scrapped at Inverkeithing in Sept 1948.

St.Just Church

St.Just Church
St.Just Square

St.Just Square

To find St.Just, make your way down the A30 to Penzance, then take the A3071 all the way to St.Just. Once there,take the Bosorn Road down to Porth Naven.

Location of Porth Nanven and Cape Cornwall.

Location of Porth Nanven and Cape Cornwall.

The Trawler Yvette

I have always had a soft spot for Prawle Point, because it has a wild and beautiful seascape. This wildness, had been the cause of many, many shipwrecks (see Prawle Point and Dimitrios) over the ages, and so I have often tramped over its cliffs and costal paths to view the latest shipwreck. Even now you can still see signs of the Dimitrios and the Hey-P at low tide. However, if you come out of the National Trust car park and turn left, you will leave the cliffs and steep paths of Prawle Point behind you and proceed along an altogether flatter and easier coast path towards Langerstone Point. The scenery is quite breathtaking, with wonderful views towards Dartmouth, and besides picking blackberries, there are endless opportunities to clamber onto the rocks to examine the rock pools and watch all the different sea birds at work. If you are lucky you might see a hawk gliding on the thermals before stooping towards its prey. There are usually plenty of cows wandering about, so be mindful of not going to near, especially with dogs.

Prawle Point

Prawle Point
The beaches near Landing Cove.

The beaches near Landing Cove.

At low tide, lovely stretches of sand appear, to delight young children, and the bathing is safe and calm. It’s hard to believe that in bad weather, all this beauty turns into a death trap, but that’s exactly what happened on 12 March 1978 to the Brixam trawler Yvette. Steaming near Prawle in a big swell the fog suddenly came down and caught the crew on the hop. The radar didn’t work properly and so the skipper was momentarily uncertain of his true position. It doesn’t take long for small mistakes to suddenly become full blown disasters, and soon the Yvette hit the rocks off Langerstone Point. All attempts to get her off failed, and the crew of three had to be rescued by line from a rocket apparatus. The skipper was taken off by helicopter, and the Yvette soon became a total wreck about half a mile east of Landing Cove where some of her remains can still be seen today.

I am gratefull for ‘Mark’ of www.trawlerphotos.co.ukfor suppying these photos of the Yvette.

Yvette

Yvette
Yvette

Yvette

In fact there is quite a lot left , which surprised me, especially as this is such an exposed bit of coastline. The main winch and the stern gantry are easy to see, as well as some of the hull. A bit further away in a gulley are the propeller protector and some more iron plate. If you search around you will find plenty more small bits and pieces, some of which are already crudded into the rock.

The main part of the wreckage including the winch.

The main part of the wreckage including the winch.
The main part of the wreckage including the winch.

The main part of the wreckage including the winch.

Looking at the Yvettes smashed remains, you realise how small the boat was, and how lucky the crew were to get off alive. It’s a shame some off the Euro bureaucrats and our own Government can’t see this wreck, as it might bring home to them how dangerous the job is. A little more protection of our fishing fleet and less regulation would make their lives a lot easier, and safer.

The stern gantry and the back of the winch.

The stern gantry and the back of the winch.
The stern gantry and the back of the winch.

The stern gantry and the back of the winch.

Yellow Submarine at Puerto de Mogan

This is a bit of a fraud if you are a committed wreck diver because you wont get wet. But when I saw this sub in the pretty little Port I just had to have a go.

The Yellow Sub and safety boat.

The Yellow Sub and safety boat.
This is the spare one getting overhauled.

This is the spare one getting overhauled.

The big surprise was the shipwreck. It appeared to be a medium sized fishing boat. no one on the crew knew its name at the time, but looking on the net, I came across this great site that runs diving tours (wet ones) on it.

www.canary-diving.com/site4.shtm

A surprisingly light and spacious interior.

A surprisingly light and spacious interior.

The wreck is called the Cemona 11, a medium sized trawler, and it was deliberately sunk in March 2002 by the yellow submarine company to enhance their attraction. It was lying on its port side, still reasonably intact, and home to a large variety of marine life including large shoals of baby sardines which hide from the tuna and jacks that seem to constantly patrol the wreck.

The Cemona 11.Courtesy Canary Diving.

The Cemona 11.Courtesy Canary Diving.
A really useful gadget.

A really useful gadget.

St.Johns Creek- Mudrun

The Tamar River is the dividing line between Devon and Cornwall, and over on the Cornish side just opposite Devonport Dockyard lies, at low water, the mud flats of St. Johns Creek. The stretch of water just off these mudflats is called the Hamoaze, and it was here in the 1850’s that the Navy sited its gunnery school H.M.S. Cambridge. The school consisted of two hulks moored together to provide accommodation and gunnery training, and a shore area adjoining the mudflats at Trevol in Torpoint, which is now the site of H.M.S. Raleigh, the Navy’s training establishment.

H.M.S.Cambridge.

H.M.S.Cambridge.

Cloth targets were put up in the mud fixed to wooden poles set deep in the mud. From Trevol the Navy practiced live firing with Martini Henry rifles, Lee Metford rifles and small cannons like the ones now used in the Navy’s Field Gun runs. From the hulks the Navy fired cannon balls inland, across the water to the mud flats. These cannon balls were solid shot as opposed to the ones that were hollowed out and filled with gunpowder for active service. This carried on till the turn of the century when the hulks were scrapped and the gunnery school moved to the naval Barracks at Devonport. (It later moved in 1940 to Wembury, but that has now been demolished.)

9 pounder field gun.

9 pounder field gun.

Consequently the mud flats are literally a carpet of old shells, cannonballs , spent lead bullets from the rifle ammunition, and you can also, still see the remains of the wooden targets. As we were just at the start of our discovery of ammunition under the sea , we thought that we could find out more about these shells and cannonballs if we ventured out onto the mud and gathered a few for examination. We should have stuck to diving.

Firing the Martini Henry rifle.

Firing the Martini Henry rifle.

As soon as we started it began to rain and the mud was deep and very sticky, causing wellingtons to be sucked right off our feet. To make matters worse, there were small rivers in the mud flats that, as the tide turned, became quite deep and fast flowing. However all that paled into insignificance once we saw all the balls and shells. There were hundreds of them, just lying around in heaps.

Remains of the wooden targets and cannon balls.

Remains of the wooden targets and cannon balls.

Most of them were solid cannon balls with a good smattering of small RML’s (practise) and loads of spent bullets. As we gathered up some of the cannon balls onto a sort of sled, the rain came down in torrents and the tide started coming in with a vengeance. We were all soaked to the skin by now, and some of us were covered in mud from continually falling over as your foot slid out of your wellie leaving you unbalanced hopping on one foot.

Nanook of the North.

Nanook of the North.

Getting back to the car became a bit of an endurance course, as the tide and rain had swollen the rivulets into full blown streams, which on one occasion we had to rope across up to our waists.

M-H bullets.

M-H bullets.
Cannonball

Cannonball

Looking at these photo’s it seems impossible that we had any fun, but we did. It was a great day out, but none of us has ever mentioned doing it again.

Stuck again-small RML shell.

Stuck again-small RML shell.
Stuck again-small RML shell.

Stuck again-small RML shell.

Arromanches-Mulberry Harbour

In 1942 the Allies mounted a disastrous raid on Dieppe to see if it was feasible to capture an enemy held port to help with the invasion. Among the many lessons learned was the fact that the German defences around the Channel ports, the so called Atlantic Wall, were very heavily defended especially around the beaches that were most favourable to the Allies invasion plans. In the planning stages of ‘Overlord’ the invasion of Europe, it soon became obvious that in order to supply the huge amount of supplies and troops that would be needed once a bridgehead had been established after the initial invasion, the Allies would need a port. Actually they would need two, one for the Americans and one for the British. Since the Germans occupied the ports that were the most useful to the Allies, the only answer was to build their own. But where? The planners came up with a revolutionary, some said insane, idea. Why not prefabricate the harbours in England and then simply tow them across to Normandy. The Mulberry Harbour as the project became known (The name Mulberry was chosen at random, but since a mulberry tree grows quickly to a great size, the name was seen as a good omen) became the greatest military engineering project in history, but at the beginning the problems seemed insurmountable. Luckily Churchill took a personal interest in the project and squashed all doubts. He famously said “bring me the best solutions, do not waste time talking about the problem’s, they will take care of themselves. With Churchill brooking no delays, the project swiftly got underway.

The huge Phoenix Caissons

The huge Phoenix Caissons

To get a grip on the size of the project think of the Port of Dover which the Mulberry Harbours were supposed to replicate. During the Second World War the Port covered 310 hectares, and was capable of discharging 1250 vehicles and 600 tonnes of supplies a day. Dover had taken seven years to construct, but the Mulberry harbours were designed and built in just one year. The main elements of the harbour were essentially an outer ring of sunken block ships, which were also used as workshops, temporary accommodation, and huge concrete Phoenix caissons to take the brunt of the sea and weather. Inside this ring were floating quays with pontoon roadways to the shore. Once the bridgehead was in position all of these elements had to be towed across the Channel and installed in less than two weeks.

Floating Jetty's

Floating Jetty’s

The building of the Phoenix caissons caused the greatest headaches because every boatyard and jetty in the country was already fully occupied with building the landing craft for the invasion. In the end special basins were excavated along the banks of the Thames in which the caissons could be constructed. The plan called for 146 caissons, but 212 were eventually constructed in six different sizes to accommodate the different types of seabed upon which they were to be sunk. Some of the surplus, were later used to repair French ports that had been destroyed in the fighting, and to prop up sea defences around the coast and the dykes at Walcheron in Holland. The largest caissons were sixty metres long by seventeen metres wide, eighteen metres high, and displaced over 6000 tonnes . There were over 8000 men involved involved in the project, and each caisson took four months to build. Their construction consumed 600,000tonnes of concrete, 31000 tons of steel, and a million and a half square metres of corrugated steel sheets.

Floating roads to the Beach Head

Floating roads to the Beach Head

By the 6th of June all was ready and the block ships set off soon after the invasion force so that they would be sunk in position ready for the arrival of the Phoenix caissons and the other elements of the harbour which was scheduled for the 8th of June. It took over 130 tugs to tow all the parts into place, and soon the installation of the Mulberry Harbours commenced. The American harbour Mulberry A , was stationed off the Omaha invasion beach, and Mulberry B off the beach at Arromanches. The work went on night and day. Each caisson had its own anti aircraft battery to protect them as well as barrage balloons and a thick artificial fog to disguise the whole enterprise. Up until now the Germans had no idea what was going on, but by June 16th the penny finally dropped and they launched ferocious airstrikes against the harbour. It hardly made a dent. The work carried on without a pause, and soon the Mulberry Harbour was up and running right on time.

Mullberry B

Mullberry B

Designed to last only 90 days Mulberry B survived savage storms and was still operating well into November. Their usefulness however, had now been over taken by events. Roads around Arromanches had deteriorated to a point where they were unsuitable for heavy transport, and Belgium and Dutch ports, now recaptured by the Allies, were much closer to the forward battle zone. A lot of port equipment was wasting away in the Mulberry’s that could be much better employed in the ports opening further up the coast, so a decision was taken to strip the Mulberry harbours of all useful equipment, and abandon them to the sea.

Then

Then
After

After

Arromanches, before and after. The resturant is on the extreme right of the photo
During the war the town of Arromanches was in the thick of the fighting, and was badly damaged, but today much of the town has been rebuilt as it was, and is a delightful place to visit. At low tide the brooding mass of the ruined Mulberry Harbour dominates the beachscape, but still leaves plenty of space for building sand castles and going for bracing walks. It is quite something to walk out to some of the nearer ruins and realise their sheer size, and if you venture onto the cliff tops you can quite easily see what’s left of the outer ring of the Mulberry, the huge Phoenix caissons seemingly impervious to the pounding of the sea over all these years.
Right at the corner of the beach is a Hotel with a great little restaurant, and in the evening you can have a meal there overlooking the beach. Usually some of the caissons are lit up, and after your meal, as you stroll along the promenade in the half dark it’s not hard to imagine the sound of shells exploding, bullets whipping by, and the shouts and cries of the troops as they thunder ashore bound for glory or oblivion. Thank God they did, but the sacrifice was high as the nearby cemeteries attest. Even so, without the Mulberry Harbour things could have been a lot bloodier. To get a proper perspective on the Harbour and the Invasion in this area, go to the excellent museum just up from the beach and afterwards don’t forget to linger on the nearby invasion beaches to give thanks to all those brave men. At Arromanches you can purchase a great little guide book:Arromanches-History of a Harbour.

Fredrick Henry Ward-Survivor from H.M.S. Hunter

In January 2008 the HMS Hunter was found lying at the bottom of the Narvik fjord in over 1000 feet of icy water by the Norwegian mine hunter Hnoms Tyr. 68 years after she was sunk, this is one survivor’s story of friendship, sorrow, hardship and life aboard a British destroyer during WW2, which was part of a flotilla honoured with the first Victoria Cross of the Second World War. I am very gratefull to Robin Ward for sending me this account of his father’s exploits in the First Battle of Narvik. Having dived on many of the ships that he mentions, his first hand account gives more meaning to those dives, and connects me (in a very small way) to those great events so many years ago. Without people like ‘Fred’ Ward and the rest of the crew of H.M.S.Hunter, the world would be a much poorer place.

The scene in the harbour after the First Flotilla (including Hunter) struck.

The scene in the harbour after the First Flotilla (including Hunter) struck.

At approx 10:00hrs on 9th April 1940 the HMS Hunter set sail from Scapa Flow in the Orkney’s along with its flotilla leader the HMS Hardy and three other British destroyers, HMS Hotspur, HMS Havock and HMS Hostile, their mission? To guard minelayers, which were mining the North Sea. While near the Skagerrak strait, a stretch of water, which runs between Norway and Denmark, the British flotilla witnessed the battle between the British battlecruiser the HMS Renown and the German Battlecruisers, Schamhorst and Gneisenau, as well as sinking a German U-Boat on their way. This was Fred’s first taste of war! Even though it was bitterly cold, the men were in good spirits; most of them firm friends by this time having trained together and only having each other as company. It was snowing and the sea was huge, at one point the Hunter was sailing down an enormous wave while the Hardy was sailing up another one, just in front. Fred could see down the funnel of the Hardy as they were opposite each other in this massive sea. This is one reality of war at sea that is hardly ever told. It’s not always plain sailing. At 04:30hrs on 10th April 1940 the British flotilla entered Ofotfjord in the Norwegian Sea, not knowing where they were going or what was to come, only being told to be ready for battle stations

'Fred' Ward as a young gunner aged 25 years.

‘Fred’ Ward as a young gunner aged 25 years.

They were in formation with the Hardy leading, Hunter following with Havock, Hostile and Hotspur closely behind. The Hardy stopped near a lighthouse and Fred watched as some of her crew sailed to shore in a small boat, he knows now that it was for intelligence on German destroyers and other ships in the area. When the Hardy’s Captain, Bernard Armitage Warburton Lee communicated back to HQ that there were more ships than expected and that the chances of going into battle and making it back out again were very slim, the admiralty told him that he had to make a decision. His decision was to carry on with the mission and gave the order to “Follow on”. Not knowing at the time, but this brave decision was to have a massive impact on Hitler’s Navy.

Newspaper account of the battle.

Newspaper account of the battle.

They proceeded up the fjord until they entered the port of Narvik, it was dark, snowing and visibility was very poor, but Fred could make out ships in the distance. They started weaving between German merchant ships, with German sailors walking around on the decks, but as the visibility was low they paid the British flotilla little notice, most probably thinking they were German ships. Fred watched as the Hardy closed in on some German destroyers, which were docked. They were: Willem Heidkamp (Flagship) Anton Schmitt Hans Ludemann Deiter Von Roeder The Hardy was searching for the Willem Heidkamp, the German flagship in Narvik. Warburton Lee’s objective was to take this ship out first; this would put the Germans on their back foot, damaging their morale. As they got closer the Hardy turned broadside into position and fired two torpedoes at the Willem Heidkamp, they were a direct hit and she went down almost immediately killing her Captain, Commodore Bonte. THEN ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE! The Germans did not know what had hit them, following closely in Hardy’s wake, Hunter and Havock opened up on Anton Schmitt with guns and torpedoes, sinking her, they then turned their attention to Hans Ludemann, badly damaging her, while Hostile scored two direct hits on Deiter Von Roeder.

H.M.S.Hunter's crest

H.M.S.Hunter’s crest

Captain Warburton Lee gave the order to pull out and re-group, believing that there were only six destroyers in the area with 4 being accounted for. Going in for the second time they dodged torpedoes from the stricken Deiter Von Roeder while inflicting more damage on her and the remaining German destroyers as well as taking out merchant ships loaded with iron ore for Germany. Having completed the mission and nearly out of ammo, the British flotilla headed for open water. This is when things took a disastrous turn. In fact there were more German destroyers docked at nearby inlets. As the British destroyers raced by, the German destroyers gave chase. They were: Wolfgang Zenker Erich Giese Erich Koellner Hermann Kunne Up to speed, the British were outrunning the German destroyers and thought they were going to make it, but what they did not realise was that two larger German destroyers were racing head on towards them. They were: Georg Thiele Bernd Von Armin.

Georg Thiele

Georg Thiele

Knowing that they were outnumbered and outgunned, the Hardy turned and took the brunt of it from the German destroyers. Her bridge obliterated and out of control she headed to the far shoreline with her Captain, Warburton Lee mortally wounded. His courageous last words were, “carry on engaging the enemy”. The Hunter was next, hit in the engine room she lost power and due to smoke and poor visibility was then rammed by the Hotspur, disabling her. The Hotspur managed to pull away, she sailed close to the Hunter to try and help shield her, but there was nothing she could do and pulled away leaving the Hunter to take the Germans rage on her own.

H.M.S.Hunter

H.M.S.Hunter

Meanwhile the Hardy was on fire had beached on the far side of the fjord, her crew taking their Captain, Warburton Lee to shore, but sadly he passed away from his injuries, he would later be posthumously awarded the first Victoria Cross of the Second World War for this action. Havock and Hostile had run the gauntlet between the German ships and made it out to the open sea, as did the Hotspur, but the Hunter was a sitting duck with her engine room and propellers damaged! Sat in the middle of the fjord with gunfire and explosions all around, the brave men of the Hunter carried on engaging the enemy with everything they had left, knowing that this was the Hunter’s and most probably their own last moments.

Missing in action.

Missing in action.

Fred was a gunner and the noise from gunfire, explosions and the echo’s off the side of the mountains made it impossible to think, he once said it was like having your head compressed, you can not think, the training just takes over. One of Fred’s mates came up to him and asked if he could borrow his knife as he had lost his, Fred took his knife out of its sheath and handed it to him. A few moments later there was an explosion, Fred looked over and his friend was gone, this is when he knew the Hunter had to go down, the Germans were not going to stop until she was beneath the waves. Out of ammo, Fred was sat on the deck of the Hunter looking into the freezing water. This is when the order was given to abandon ship.

Fredrick Henry Ward aged 88years. 2008

Fredrick Henry Ward aged 88years. 2008

The chances of surviving in this freezing Arctic sea were very slim and Fred could already see bodies floating in front of him, from the smoke and fire their heads blackened and he recalled it as seeing black heads bobbing around everywhere. The Hunter was on her way down, she was listing badly, nearly on her side. Fred was watching her radio mast; it was almost touching the water. Something made him look behind him and the Hunter’s Captain, Linsey de Villiers was walking past. He looked at Fred and nodded as if to say over you go. The Captain then disappeared back inside the ship and was not seen again! Fred took off his boots and jumped in the freezing water! With his senses numbed and with the unfortunate ones floating nearby, Fred treaded water, waiting to either be picked up, or die. He turned to face the Hunter, which was now up on her end, sinking. Every ship has a name or number, the HMS Hunter’s was H35 and Fred was watching this slowly make its way towards the water line. He said that because of the sheer bulk of the Hunter, it looked as if she was sinking slowly, but as the H35 reached the water it disappeared very quickly and within a few seconds she was gone. There was a swell in the water and then nothing; it was as if she was never there.

Some of those who died, were buried in a graveyard nearby.

Some of those who died, were buried in a graveyard nearby.

The saddest part is that there were brave sailors trapped below decks, their exits buckled from the explosions and with no way out, they had to go down with her. When she left Plymouth for War, the Hunter had a compliment of 157; only 45 were pulled alive from the freezing Norwegian waters on 10th April 1940 and of these, some would die from exposure and injuries.

Memoirs

Memoirs

Just when Fred though he would not make it, he was picked up by a German ship. He was pulled from the water and remembers a German sailor walking towards him with a knife; this is when he passed out. When he regained consciousness, he was naked, in a bunk with only a blanked covering him. A German guard offered him some bread, which he took. He was marched on deck and watched as the remains of War smouldered in the fjord. He was freezing, in shock and did not know what lay ahead for him. He was then taken to shore as a prisoner along with the other survivors. The War had just started and Fred found himself in the hands of the enemy, but this would not be the first time he would be captured by the Germans!

H.M.S.Warspite

H.M.S.Warspite

They were marched through the town of Narvik with only their blankets for comfort until they reached a café called Iris, this is where they were given dry clothes and they were guarded day and night, while the Germans carried on with their campaign. On the 13th April 1940, Fred was aroused to the sound of commotion along with gunfire and explosions. The café Iris overlooked Narvik fjord and he could see British Warships engaging the German destroyers, not knowing it, but Fred was witnessing the second battle of Narvik. There was a large British Battleship in the fjord and she was picking off the German destroyers with ease. She was the HMS Warspite, a formidable weapon of the British Navy. The walls of the café shook to the gunfire from the Warspite and it was not long before she and her flotilla of destroyers left, leaving the German destroyers a mangled sinking wreck. The Germans had lost 10 destroyers plus merchant ships during the two battles of Narvik, this would hamper Hitler’s efforts during the rest of the War and even today many still say that the two battles of Narvik gave the British Navy victory in the War. The above is dedicated to my dad, for he helped secure our freedom, but also to the brave sailors that gave the ultimate sacrifice and never returned to their loved ones. Robin Ward

Emma Christ

This is one of the first shipwrecks that I saw on the Cornish coast. It is on the beach over towards Polhawn Cove on the Rame Head side of the Bay. There is a convenient car park, and the path down to the beach is easy to find and not too steep. It is a lovely part of the Bay, much loved by families and their children as the sea is usually sheltered by Rame Peninsula and so safe to bathe in. In 1975, Mr. Burland put most of his savings into a boat called the Emma Christ which he bought from the Ministry of Defence. The idea was to convert it into a diving tender. During the rest of the year the work proceeded at a good pace and by November 1976 she was ready to take her Board of Trade Survey, which was held in Dartmouth. N Saturday November 8th the Emma Christ set sail from Plymouth to conduct trials in Whitesand Bay. After an hour or so the engine stopped due to a fuel blockage, and the ship rode at anchor for three hours whilst the crew tried to sort the problem out.>

Emma Christ

Emma Christ

Suddenly there was a loud bang as the anchor cable parted and the ship started heading for the shore. Although there wasn’t a full blown gale the seas had got up and as the ship neared the rocks the surf became much more severe. The crew couldn’t start the engine, because the air bottles needed to turn it over were empty, and the air compressor seized up after only working for a few minutes.

Emma Christ

Emma Christ

In desperation two more anchors were thrown over but they didn’t hold and within minutes the Emma Christ was swept onto the rocks. Mr. Burland sent up flares and the Lifeboat and Helicopter were scrambled. When the helicopter arrived the ship had been pushed under the two hundred and fifty foot cliffs, was beam on, and being buffeted quite strongly by the waves. Two crewmen had scrambled off the ship on to the rocks, but the Lifeboat could not approach near enough to rescue the other two crew, so the helicopter, hovering very close to the cliffs winched the other two off the boat to safety.

View from above.

View from above.

The next day Mr. Burland stood on the cliffs looking down on his ruined boat. The Emma Christ was already starting to come apart and he new that salvage was not an option. His hopes of running a diving tender were over, and all that was left was the dream.

All thats left.

All thats left.

Now a days there is not a lot left of the Emma Christ except for a rusting boiler half buried in the sand and masses of iron plate sticking up out of the sand. Still the walk is great, even if the climb back up is a it of an effort.

All thats left.

All thats left.

Bombs And Bullets DVD

Bombs And Bullets DVD

The seabed around Plymouth is littered with bombs and bullets of all kinds. Most are from the Victorian era, but many are from the last two World Wars, and up to the present day.

In this film, the team recover mainly Victorian ammunition, cannonballs, and a variety of other bullets and shells, tell you all about them, and place them in their historical context. Running Time 26 mins

This DVD is temporarily unavailable

H.M.S. Montagu-Lundy Island

Twelve miles North West of Hartland Point and the North Devon coast lies the rugged granite island of Lundy. Just three miles long, this little island of volcanic origin lies right at the entrance to the Bristol Channel, directly in the path of what once were the major shipping routes to the coal ports of south Wales and Bristol itself.

One of the many wrecks over the years.

One of the many wrecks over the years.

Although Lundy has probably more than its’ fair share of shipwrecks, it is nowhere near what it could have been, considering how many ships have passed this way in the last two centuries alone. It is estimated that in its heyday, almost a million ships passed the island every year. Even so, in 1786, the merchants of Bristol were so concerned at the losses suffered around the island, that they offered to build and maintain a light house at their own expense.

The Carmine Filomena wrecked in 1937.

The Carmine Filomena wrecked in 1937.

Lundy has a recorded history going back to the time of King John and since then its ownership has changed many times. With only one landing place and three hundred foot high cliffs, Lundy is a natural stronghold and it’s no surprise to find that over the years it has been home to pirates and smugglers alike. With no natural resources other than stone there was not much to offer anyone that wanted to settle on Lundy and anyone who did could be storm bound on the island for weeks.

The one and only landing spot

The one and only landing spot

Today the island is owned by the National Trust but maintained by the Landmark Trust as a nature reserve. There are tons of birds to spot including puffins, loads of seals and dolphins and the occasional basking shark. It’s a magical place that’s easy to visit for the day by getting on the M.V.Oldenburg either from Ilfracombe or Bideford. If you want to stay on the island you can stay in chalets (you have to book well in advance) and there is a great pub that does excellent meals. It’s a great day out, and has the added attraction of a really fantastic wreck story with a walk to match.The wreck in question is the battleship H.M.S. Montagu.

H.M.S. Montagu.

H.M.S. Montagu.

On the afternoon of 29 May 1906 the almost new battleship anchored off Lundy during a Fleet exercise. Her job was to communicate with the Isles of Scilly using the recently installed wireless telegraphic signalling apparatus. This equipment was the cutting edge of technology at the time and the Admiralty was expecting great things from it. However the distance to the Scilly Isles was too great, and in normal circumstances the Montagu would have steamed closer to the Islands and continued her trials. Unfortunately she was now enveloped in a thick fog and anchored as she was, right in the main shipping lane there was a real risk of another ship colliding with her. In the end it was decided to move closer to Lundy. As the great ship got under way soundings were taken, and as the Montagu crept closer towards the coast a strict lookout was kept. At about 2 o’clock in the afternoon, the depth was given as seventeen fathoms and the navigating officers was just congratulating himself in placing the ship safely four miles off Lundy when there was a great crash and grinding of metal, and the Montagu shuddered to a halt. Unknown to all on board, they had just run aground on the Shutter Rock at the south western corner of Lundy Island. The ship’s massive engines were put hard astern ripping off her propellers, but the Montagu was held fast and started to leak badly.

The Montagu as she struck.

The Montagu as she struck.

A landing party was detailed to scramble up the cliffs and go and find help. When the men got to the top of the cliffs they could hardly see where they were because of the fog but came across a rough path. If they had turned left they would have come across the lighthouse just half a mile away, but they turned right and marched the whole length of the island before stumbling into the lighthouse keeper’s cottage. The Naval Officer in charge of the party was convinced they were on the North Devon coast and railed at the poor keeper to contact the authorities. The lighthouse keeper finally realised that they thought they were at the Hartland Point Light and had to forcefully point out the Officers mistake by saying that it was hardly likely that he (the keeper) did not know which lighthouse he was serving in.

The Old lighthouse close to Shutter Rock.

The Old lighthouse close to Shutter Rock.

By now the Montagu’s lower compartments were all flooded and the hull was grinding nastily against the rocks. The Navy had no salvage equipment so they sent for the Liverpool Salvage Company and their most experienced officer Capt. Young. Since they had asked for their help you would have thought the Navy would have let the Salvage Company get on with it, but no. Capt. Young was relegated to the status of assistant and the Admiralty put in their own man, Admiral Sir A.K.Wilson. Although he was a brilliant officer he was completely out of his depth when dealing with the salvage of such a large battleship. Almost at once he ordered a huge flotilla of ships to bring all sorts of gear to the site. Working parties of hundreds of seamen were put aboard the Montagu, all with conflicting agendas. The upshot was chaos and confusion with everybody getting in each other’s way whilst the ship sank lower and lower in the water.

The ‘Atlas’ wrecked 1942

The ‘Atlas’ wrecked 1942

The arguments and conflicting ideas raged unchecked with Capt. Young of the Salvage Company being told to mind his manners. The last straw came when the Admiral seriously suggested that the Montagu be filled with cork and be allowed to float off on the high tide. It was by now obvious to all that the great battleship was lost and in desperation the Admiralty turned to Capt. Young to salvage something from the shambles. The first thing he suggested was the removal of the battleships huge 12 inch guns. Each of these weighed 48 tons and was worth a great deal of money. They also were badly needed by the Navy to rearm other ships as the supply of guns was extremely short. Overnight Capt. Young assumed complete charge of the salvage operation. All the ships were sent away along with the working parties. All that was left were the employee’s of the Liverpool Salvage Company.

One of the huge guns.

One of the huge guns.

In order to remove the guns Capt. Young and his crew blew out part of the ships side to allow the barrels to drop down into the hull. He then had massive 60 ft sheer legs constructed to lift the barrels into the waiting lighters to be taken away to Pembroke Dock. Two barrels were removed in twenty one days, and to celebrate, a ‘Sods Opera’ (concert) was conducted on the wreck. The chief diver, Alf Gloyne, amazed everyone with a stunning tap dance routine, others played accordion and Capt. Young gave a spirited rendition of ‘Blow the man Down’ to a by now happy, and very drunk audience. The two after barrels soon followed and the crew then set about stripping out the condensers, pumps and tons of non ferrous metal. Even the propellers were recovered when the anchor of one of the salvage vessels got tangled up in their remains.

The Fantastic Ariel Walkway.

The Fantastic Ariel Walkway.

By now the official salvage operation was coming to a close. The Courts Martial had found both Capt. Adair and his Navigating Officer Lt.Dathan, guilty of hazarding the ship, and they were both severely reprimanded. With the end of these proceedings the Montagu was ‘paid off’ and in January 1907 the Navy put her up for auction to be broken up where she lay. She was bought for £4250-00 by the Syndicate of South Wales Adventurers and it proved to be a wise investment. An aerial footway over 500 ft long was constructed from the top of the cliffs to the roof of the Montagu’s chart house, and also a path was made down the side of the cliff using granite steps and then footholds were carved into the rock. These became known as the Montagu Steps and you can still see them today.

You can just see the Montagu Steps.

You can just see the Montagu Steps.

Work was only possible for a short time at low tide, and so speed was of the essence. Lighters were brought alongside and slowly piece by huge piece, the armour plating was removed along with a vast amount of copper and brass. Explosives were used extensively and this had the effect of finishing of any structural strength left in the ship. By October 1907 huge storms, the worse Lundy had seen for years started to pound the wreck to pieces and so the salvors suspended their operations and retired to count their profits. Soon the Montagu disappeared completely beneath the waves and all that was left to mark her passing were the granite steps and a few bits of rusting metal that supported that fantastic Ariel walkway.

Nearly 500yards long.

Nearly 500yards long.

I am very grateful for the following information and photo from Chris Howell. He has a walking stick made by his great Grandfather’s company, the shaft of which came from the deck timber of the Montague. These sorts of sticks are known as ‘relic canes’. I confess that I had never heard the term before so Chris sent this photo of the inscription on the cane. You can just make out the inscription ‘WOOD FROM H.M.S. MONTAGU. The siver Cartouche is inscribed LS, and the hallmark date is 1907.The stick is complete with original ferrule and original length of 36”.

Walking Stick.

Walking Stick.
I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo's below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.

I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo’s below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.
I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo's below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.

I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo’s below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.
I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo's below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.

I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo’s below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.
I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo's below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.

I am very grateful to Dave Snook, for the photo’s below, of the salvors on the wreck of Hms Montagu.

The K5 Submarine Disaster

The village of Mortenhamstead nestles snugly into the edge of Dartmoor, and in its church is a small brass memorial which commemorates the death of Lt. Robert Middlemist R.N. He was killed on 20th January 1921 whilst serving on board the submarine K5. The K5 left Torbay on 19January 1921 with the K8, K15, K10 and K22 for a mock battle in the Bay of Biscay. The K5 had an experienced skipper in Lt.Com Gaimes but a new crew. Robert Middlemist was an acting Lt.

The Brass Plaque

The Brass Plaque

The Brass plaqueThe submarine K5 signaled its intention to dive on 20 January when 120 miles south west of the Scilly Isles. She never surfaced, and it was presumed that she had exceeded her safe depth. All fifty seven officers and men were killed. All that was recovered was a battery cover and a sailor’s ditty box. At first this just seems to be another sad death of a young man serving his country. But the fact that it happened in a K class submarine makes it much more significant.

The Village Church

The Village Church

The Village ChurchThe K class of submarines was the brainchild of Admiral Jellicoe. At 339 ft long they were nearly twice the size of most other submarines. They were made this long to achieve a top speed on the surface of 24 knots. Unfortunately this meant that when the submarine dived, the bow could be at crush depth whilst the stern was still near the surface. The submarines were steam driven (really) with two funnels that had to be retracted before the dive could take place, and this was a constant source of leaks and problems, and was of particular concern in the case of a crash dive or bad weather.

Always having accidents.

Always having accidents.

Always having AccidentsThe K class were very unhappy ships that suffered a great deal of accidents. K13 for instance, sunk with all hands on her acceptance trials. In the end the submarines were scrapped and two of the hulls that were still being built were given over to an even more peculiar class of submarine, the M class. These also both sank with all hands.

Twice as big as most other submarines.

Twice as big as most other submarines.

The Mary Rose

The Mary Rose is probably the most famous shipwreck to be discovered in British waters. Named for Henry VIII sister Mary in 1510, the Mary Rose was the Kings flagship and served in the fleet for thirty five years before she sunk off Southsea in 1545. The tale of her discovery in the 1970’s, subsequent lifting and preservation in a museum has all the elements of an Agatha Christie novel, with the Mary Rose cast as the victim. Treachery, betrayal, ridicule, vaunting ambition, and of course the English disease, complete cock up. (well maybe in this case just a partial one).

The ship was named for Mary Tudor.

The ship was named for Mary Tudor.

The hero in all this is the fantastic Alexander McKee, author of loads of popular history books back in the 60’s and 70’s, who’s stubbornness and dogged determination in the face of ridicule and contemptuous dismissal by the so called experts, finally triumphs seventeen years later, only to be elbowed out of the limelight by those same people that scorned him in the first place. You could hardly make it up.

And what of the corpse, the victim in all this melodrama? Well after a botched salvage, the remains now lie rotting in a so called state of preservation behind plastic sheets in a dank shed in Portsmouth, and is a disgrace to the memory of this hugely important Tudor ship.

Alexander McKee

Alexander McKee

Only the artefacts and cannon lovingly displayed in a museum nearby make you realise how fantastic this whole project could have been. A Tudor time capsule is what McKee called it, and even with all its faults, there is still that resonance about it. This was supposed to be Britain’s answer to the Vasa. It does not even come close.

  1. John Deane
  2. How I found the Mary Rose
  3. The Hunt for the Mary Rose

Apart from my own recollections, most of the facts are taken from these two great books.

John Deane

In 1782 the Royal George capsized at Spithead and sank with the loss of nine hundred men women and children. All salvage attempts on the ship failed so she was left to rot. Now fifty years on the wreck had become full of silt and mud and was proving to be a bit of an obstruction. Working on her at the time were the Deane brothers, Charles the eldest, and John. Since 1832 they had managed to recover three bronze 18 pounder’s, nineteen bronze 24 pounder’s, and eight 32 pounder’s. The Admiralty was only paying them half of what the guns were worth but the Deane’s were after the contract to blow the wreck up, so suffered the low fees with good grace.

Working on the Royal George.

Working on the Royal George.

The Deane brothers were by now extremely well known as they had invented the first really practical diving apparatus which almost any one could use. John had had the idea when he was passing a farm with a barn full of horses on fire. The farmer had a pump and a small hose which hardly let out any water, and the smoke was such that no one could get into the barn. Rushing into the farm house to find some buckets, he came across an old suit of armour. Suddenly inspired, he grabbed the helmet and rushed out to the fire, pushed the farmer out of the way and shoved the hose into the helmet. As the hose could pump air as well as water John was able to breathe fresh air and enter the barn and save all the horses. John was all of eighteen at the time. The two brothers secured a patent on ‘an apparatus to be worn by persons entering rooms filled with smoke’ and thought that their fortunes would be made.

John Deane at the bow of the Royal George.

John Deane at the bow of the Royal George.

The apparatus consisted of a lightweight copper helmet with a short breastplate riveted to a leather jacket. The helmet had three glass windows and a vent to allow speech. Two hoses were fixed to the helmet at the back, one supplying air which was pumped in by bellows and the other hose ran down the body to the ankles to take away the exhaled air. When the Deane brothers took their invention to the Fire Insurance Companies and the Admiralty they were shown the door. Nobody was interested. This was a serious setback, but John suddenly had a brainwave. If the helmet could be used in smoke filled rooms then it should be capable of being used underwater. At the time most salvage work was done with diving bells and they were extremely cumbersome. However diving bells were all the rage because of the exploits of the young Isambard Kingdom Brunel who had made a series of dives to the bottom of the Thames to try and find out why the tunnel his father was building at Rotherhide kept flooding.

I.G.Brunel

I.G.Brunel

But imagine if the diver was free to just go just where he wanted and in relative comfort.It would be so much more efficient and people would queue to buy the helmets. The Deane brothers set too and modified their smoke hood but the results were not promising, so they redesigned the whole thing, and by 1828 had it more or less perfected. The helmet was now much heavier with narrower windows and the corselet was married to a short sleeveless jacket. The helmet now had only one hose supplied by a pump instead of bellows and the exhaled air bubbled out around the bottom of the jacket. Essentially it was a personal diving bell. Because of the need to keep warm and dry, Deane designed a waterproof one piece suit that the diver clambered into through the neck, the excess material being tied off. As long as the helmet was full of air no water could seep in through the neck. Bandages around the wrists stopped water getting in there, and lead weights slung around the chest stopped the diver popping up to the surface. When all this was finished, John and Charles became in effect the first professional hard hat divers and were soon extremely busy salvaging all sorts of ships and their cargo’s.

Deane's Patent.

Deane’s Patent.

Soon their diving helmet was attracting a lot of interest and Deane teamed up with Augustus Siebe a Prussian engineer who had set up in London as a precision machinist. He made the helmets and John wrote out the instructions for their use. ‘A person equipped in this apparatus being enabled to descend to considerable depths, from 20 fathoms(120ft) to probably 30 fathoms(180ft) and to remain down several hours having the perfect use of his arms and legs and is freely able to traverse the bottom of the sea to seek out the hidden treasures of the deep.’

Over the next few years the Deans were kept very busy, and it was whilst salvaging cannon from the Royal George that they made another discovery, the wreck of the Mary Rose. Whilst they had been working down below a fishing smack had got her lines entangled on an obstruction quite near the Royal George. Deane went down to have a look and there he found another wreck with a large bronze cannon. When this was lifted it had this inscription on it that showed it was a bronze demi cannon cast by an Italian foundry in 1542 for King Henry VIII. The Deanes brought up many more cannon with Tudor Roses on them and lots of artefacts, but it cut no ice with the Admiralty.

The Inscription on the Gun

The Inscription on the Gun

Whilst they had been busy lifting cannon others had been stealing a march on them. The job of blasting the Royal George went not to the Deane’s, but to Charles Pasley a Colonel in the Royal Engineers. One of the reasons that he got the job was because he had a much better diving suit that the Deane’s. John Deane’s suit suffered from a major drawback, in that when the diver bent down he was in danger of getting the helmet flooded. Augustus Siebe had been experimenting with a new design and by 1837 he had perfected the first closed diving suit. He made his helmet in two parts the main part of the helmet separate from the corselet. The suit was clamped to the corselet by bolts thus making a water tight seal and one the diver was inside the helmet was screwed on. Fresh air was pumped from the surface and the exiled air vented through a valve. It was far superior to the Deane brother’s suit.

Deane in the new Open Dress

Deane in the new Open Dress

While Charles Deane furiously argued his case to the Admiralty, Pasley was getting ready to blow up the Royal George with two tons of explosives. As the wreck was scattered to pieces on the sea bed a plume of water shot high into the air taking with it any hopes John had of the Admiralty ever adopting his suit. Augustus Siebe got the contract and his diving suit was adopted as the standard equipment for Naval divers and remained so in almost identical form for the next 150 years.

Deane's watercolour of some of the cannons he found on the Mary Rose.

Deane’s watercolour of some of the cannons he found on the Mary Rose.

So Siebe won the contracts and the glory, John became Britain’s most eminent underwater engineer, and Charles Deane went mad, the result, so the Morning Chronicle said, of over taxing his brain with study. Over the years Deane became forgotten, and this was a great shame. Besides salvaging all these wrecks John Deane realized even then, that all this stuff had some historical importance and started to write a book describing his adventures and illustrated it with beautiful watercolours and drawings. Alas the book was never published, the manuscript was lost, and the water colours dispersed amongst his family. However some still remain, and can be seen in Portsmouth Museum.

How I Found The Mary Rose

Yes, that’s right, I found the Mary Rose. Well that is to say me and Able Seaman Swinfield did, and actually we didn’t know we had discovered the most famous shipwreck in Britain until months later. Even so, there I was at the start of the greatest marine archaeology project of the 20th Century. So how did I get involved I hear you ask. Well it all started in 1968 with a direct order from our diving officer Lt. Commander Bax (of Bovisand fame) I was then a Royal Marine ships diver on H.M.S.Rhyl then stationed at Portsmouth on Channel Guard duties. Bax had invited this bloke Alexander McKee on board to talk to us about the Mary Rose, and unknown to us had volunteered us to do some diving for him the following weekends.

The Dive Team.

The Dive Team.

Now we had all heard of McKee, and knew about his project. In fact just about everybody on the South Coast did. He had been banging on about discovering the Mary Rose for years and everybody, including us (who had never met him before) were quite happy to write him off as a harmless bore. However to spend a rare free evening listening to him droning on about the Mary Rose was not a very inviting prospect, and we all trooped into the lecture room that evening in low spirits. On came McKee, big hair, big beard, tweed coat, and launched straight in without even a good evening, as if frightened we would scarper if he gave us the slightest chance. It was a revelation. He was supposed to speak for forty minutes but ended up staying most of the evening to answer our questions. He told the story of the Mary Rose as if it had happened yesterday and brought the whole period to life. He was passionate in his belief that he knew where the wreck was (which turned out to be exactly where all those experts told him it could not possibly be) but he didn’t rant about the unfairness of it all, just exuded a determination to find and raise the wreck.

A bit faint, but its there. (somewhere)

A bit faint, but its there. (somewhere)

Sometimes you hear somebody speaking, and you just know that he understands absolutely what he is talking about. Thats what we all felt that night about McKee, and we all volunteered to help. The next weekend we were out in an open whaler whilst McKee and his mates pored over a sonar chart that Bax had got the Navy to help compile. The weather was dreadful. It rained all the time and there was a sick making swell. The idea was to stick an instrument into some of the mounds that the sonar had found, to see if they contained any wood or were just silt and mud. I carried the fatefull instrument and Winfield stuck it in the mound (under my direction of course) Up top the machine whirred and beeped and bits of paper went round and round. Much later it was found that that mound contained some wooden wreckage.

Able Seaman Swinfield (dive storeman) and actual finder of the wreck. (under my supervision)

Able Seaman Swinfield (dive storeman) and actual finder of the wreck. (under my supervision)

Yes its true, I can now reveal that it was I (well alright, we) that found the Mary Rose. I did not know of my triumph for some time as by then H.M.S.Rhyl had crossed the Atlantic and was chasing Cuban rebels all the way down the Bahamas chain. But eventually we were told. Of course our part was down played, even forgotten. Fame was not to come calling. But McKee, who was keen on what we had done had kept in touch with Lt.Commander Bax and had given us a copy of the trace, showing the fateful mound.

Royal Marine Mitchell.(director of operations)

Royal Marine Mitchell.(director of operations)

When the Mary Rose was finally raised all those years later, I was watching it live on the telly with my Mum. As it started to break the surface I turned to her and said, ‘I was the first one to find that wreck you know’ ‘Did you son’ she replied absently. ‘What would you like for your tea?’

H.M.S.Rhyl

H.M.S.Rhyl

McKee is long gone now, but that chance encounter gave me a lifelong fascination with shipwrecks and their stories, and made me realise, that whilst the glory is nice while it lasts, the stories go on for ever.

The Hunt For The Mary Rose

The thing to remember about the sixties is that virtually nothing was known about underwater archaeology at all. Nobody really knew how wooden shipwrecks decomposed, and preserving artefacts was a very hit and miss affair. Most of the underwater archaeology sites were in the Mediterranean and they were mostly run by people who had never dived. Because of all this people stuck to outmoded practises and often made ludicrous statements about underwater shipwrecks in order to protect their positions and reputations.

The Mary Rose

The Mary Rose

By the time the Mary Rose project came along in 1965 there were a lot of so called experts, but not one who knew anything about the Tudor Navy. Various committees were formed, all convinced that they knew best, and all keeping their distance from each other in case they gave something away. Some included the Navy, and others were made up from local BSAC clubs. All tried to plot the others downfall, and of course none actually knew where the Mary Rose was. Enter Alexander Mckee arguing in essence that when the Royal George was levelled in the 1840’s,the subsequent explosions had not destroyed the Mary Rose. McKee passionately believed that she was largely intact, and that the mud would have by now buried her, and thus preserved her. Howls of derision greeted this announcement.

The Mary Professor Harold Edgerton and one of his 'Pingers' in 1968

The Mary Professor Harold Edgerton and one of his ‘Pingers’ in 1968

The opposition contended that the Royal George was nowhere near where McKee said it was, and that the Mary Rose, if she was anywhere, it was not there. McKee grew tired of all the shouting and decided to go back and look at all the old charts. He and the opposing factions ended up in the Hydrogpher’s office and compared charts. McKee had been using a copy of a 1784 chart called the Mackensie Survey and worked out his positions from that. The opposition had another chart, Sheringhams survey of Spit head 1841. This was a huge chart and when it was unrolled, there in the middle, more or less where McKee thought it should be, was a red cross with the words Royal George. Nearby was another cross with the legend Mary Rose. Unbelievably the Navy had completely over looked this obvious clue. X really did mark the spot. It was game set and match to McKee (who to his credit didn’t crow). The Navy and the rest more or less gracefully conceded, and McKee was once more in a position to direct the hunt for the Mary Rose.

At last, a Tudor Gun.

At last, a Tudor Gun.

Over the next few years a dedicated team of local divers and helpers with almost no money or resources sifted and dug away in the mud using an airlift, sonar scanned the whole area, and finally in 1970 unearthed a Tudor cannon that was the same as the one in Southsea Castle that was know to be of the same period. This proved beyond any doubt that this was indeed the site of the Mary Rose. Now the work to unearth the Mary Rose from her mud tomb could begin in earnest. Sport divers came from all over England to help, businesses donated funds and gear. The Prince of Wales became a patron and actually dived on the site, and a protection zone around the site allowed a diving barge to be stationed permanently over the wreck. Things were looking up, but there was still a huge amount of work to do.

Conservation

Conservation

For a start, how much of the Mary Rose was still there? Over the next couple of years it emerged that most of one side of the wreck was still intact. In effect, over half of the wreck was still there, lying in the mud on her starboard side, remarkably well preserved. The mud had also preserved most of the ships equipment and personal remains. More guns were raised, long bows and arrows, stone moulds for casting lead shot, a shoe, a pocket sundial and a lantern were all amongst the early finds. But overshadowing all this was the sheer excitement of unearthing a ship that was last seen in 1545. The team were by now beginning to understand that the Mary Rose was more than just a shipwreck. She was an almost perfectly preserved Tudor time capsule.

Diagram of what was left of the ship.

Diagram of what was left of the ship.

One of the most frustrating problems, was that McKee and his team still were not sure what they were looking at. The Mary Rose was to some extent the missing link in ships architecture. No sooner had they settled on what they thought was what part of the ship when another discovery would seem to contradict it. All they had to go on was a very old painting and a model of what they thought it should look like. In the murky waters off Spit head it became increasingly difficult to identify each piece and fit it into the jigsaw. But slowly and patiently they did just that. Fighting storms, currents and poor visibility, month by weary month, year by year the team worked solidly on, and slowly and carefully unearthed the Mary Rose and her treasures, showing what life had been like on board all those centuries ago.

A theoretical model of the Mary Rose commissioned by B.P.

A theoretical model of the Mary Rose commissioned by B.P.

But it was not only treasures that they unearthed, but some of the crew as well. Skulls were found in the mud, and the bones of over a hundred and sixty crewmen were disinterred, some still with their leather jerkins. One, an officer, was found lying on his sword near the stern castle with his pockets still containing some gold coins. Finally in 1982, seventeen years after it all started the end was in sight. The ships bell dated 1510 had been found and the big lift to raise the Mary Rose had started to be organized. By this time the project had become ‘the’ thing to be involved in, in the underwater archaeology world, and had gained a life of its own. McKee was elbowed out of the way so that others could make their reputations, and a lot of big talk ended up with very little actually being done in preparation for the housing of the Mary Rose.

Every Diver's Dream

Every Diver’s Dream

However before the lift could take place, a few hundred tons of ballast and thousands of firebricks from the oven hearth had to be removed. A cradle to support the wreck, whilst the lift was taking place, had to be manoeuvred into place and a million and one other things had to be organised before the operation was carried out before the watching gaze of millions glued to their television sets. Although an extremely complicated undertaking, the lift went off with only one hitch, a sickening lurch halfway through in which you could hear the sound of wood snapping. How much damage it did was glossed over and the Mary Rose was triumphantly carted off to Portsmouth Dockyard were she had started all those centuries ago.

The Big Lift.

The Big Lift.

But was she safe and sound? Well the answer is maybe. The artefacts certainly are, beautifully restored in a great museum. But the ship itself was left in a temporary berth with a bit of a botched conservation regime. The money to make a proper show home for her never really materialised, and she now languishes in a rather tatty shed. Conservation of such a fragile artefact as the Mary Rose requires a ton of money and dedicated expertise. One gets the feeling that the ship itself has become less important as the problems mount, and no one seems to have the will to push this project to a final, glorious conclusion like the Swedish did with the Vasa. However, carping aside, this is still a wonderful project, and a must see for any one interested in shipwrecks. One day it will be completed, I just hope I live to see it.

Missing:The Tragic Loss Of The Submarine A7

On the morning of the 16th January 1914, the submarine A7 was exercising in Whitsands Bay. She dived to carry out a mock attack on her escorts and failed to resurface. Her crew of eleven officers and men were never seen again.

The A7’s sinking was the latest in a long lie of accidents to afflict this class of submarine, and there had been at least fifty eight deaths in the run up to the outbreak of the First World War.

The loss of the A7 caused a storm of protest, not only from the general public, but in Parliament as well. Many MPs asked why these ‘Coffin Ships’ were still allowed to operate when they were so obviously obsolete and unfit for duty.

The submarine, once seen as an unwanted oddity, was now seen as a threat to the established order, and the Royal Navy made many mistakes as it tried to embrace the huge changes in tactics that were being forced upon it by the looming reality of global warfare.

The A7 was one of those mistakes.

You can watch the full version of the Missing documentary below


Watch “Missing”, the full length Submarine A7 documentary

Whitsands Bay

Whitsands Bay, stretching from Rame Head to Looe is one of the great Cornish seascapes. Rugged two hundred foot high cliffs overlooking miles of sandy beaches provide an ideal setting for surfer’s, sailors, walkers, and divers.

Towards Rame Head.

Towards Rame Head.

It’s very setting however, open as it is to the south westerly gales, mean that over the years, it has become a magnet for shipwrecks. The last one, the Kodima (2002) almost choked the bay with her cargo of timber planks.

The View

The View

When you have finished your walks you can go to The View which is a great little restaurant/cafe serving great food and drink overlooking the Bay. On a good day this doesn’t get much better.

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Ernest Shackleton

If ever there was a Boy’s Own hero then Shackleton is it. Scott is famous for failing to return from the South Pole, but Shackleton is famous for surviving against all the odds and going back and rescuing all his men. The bitter irony of that episode is that many of his crew who endured such hardship and triumphed over all that adversity, perished in the slaughter right at the end of the First World War.

Ernest Shackleton

Ernest Shackleton

Ernest Henry Shackleton was born in Ireland in 1874. He left school at sixteen and joined a ship bound for Valpariso and sailed all over the place for the next ten years. In 1900 he joined Scott in the National Antartic Expedition, became ill and was sent home, which was a great blow to his pride. For a while he worked as a journalist and then organised his own Antartic Expedition, Nimrod (1907-1908) One of his parties reached the South Magnetic pole and another led by Shackleton got within 97 miles of the South Pole.

Shackletons Grave

Shackletons Grave

Shackleton’s next and most famous expedition’s objective (1914-1917) was to cross the Continent from the Weddle Sea to Mucmurdo Sound. Everybody knows the tale so I will just recount it briefly. There are loads of books (some listed at the end) and other information easily available for those who want to go into more detail.

The Burial Party

The Burial Party

The expedition set out from London on Aug 1 1914 after being given special permission by the Admiralty even though War had been declared. They reached the Weddle Sea on Jan 10 1915, where their ship the Endurance, was trapped and frozen by the pack ice for nine months. Finally the pack ice crushed the Endurance and she turned over and sank. Boats and supplies were salvaged and the crew drifted on the ice flows as far as Elephant Island in the South Shetlands.

Summer in South Georgia.

Summer in South Georgia.

Realizing that they could not all go on to South Georgia 800 miles away, Shackleton left most of his men at Point Wild (named after his second in command) and with five others sailed on to South Georgia in a twenty two foot open boat the James Caird, arriving two weeks later. Unfortunately they were on the wrong side of the island and they could not sail around, so they had to land, and walk across the mountainous island on foot eventually reaching the whaling station at Stromnes Bay. Can you imagine, two weeks in an open boat in winter, in dreadful condition’s. Blizzards, temperatures below freezing and mountainous seas, and then when you reach land you have to struggle over the mountains to the other side. Inspirational just does not do it justice.

This was about four times bigger than the ship(still summer).

This was about four times bigger than the ship(still summer).

After two failed attempts, one from Gritviken, Shackleton finally rescued all his crew from Elephant Island aboard the Chilien steamer Yelcho sent from Punta Arenas one hundred and five days after he had left them. You just couldn’t make it up.It is one of the greatest survival stories of all time.

The Endurance trapped in the ice. Photo Frank Hurley.

The Endurance trapped in the ice. Photo Frank Hurley.

On his final expedition (1921-1922) Shackleton, in failing health suffered a heart attack in Rio de Janerio. He recovered from this enough to carry on towards South Georgia where he suffered another attack, which killed him on 5th January 1922. His widow (for whom the term ‘long suffering’ must have been coined) chose South Georgia as his final resting place. His grave is at the old whaling station of Gritviken, alongside those of the whalers who died over the years. It’s a very evocative place, even now with the whaling station in ruins. Gritviken, South Georgia

Hauling the boats across the pack ice. Photo Frank Hurley

Hauling the boats across the pack ice. Photo Frank Hurley

The graveyard is over to the left of the settlement, and to get to it you have to walk up a muddy track picking your way through elephant and fur seals and dodging the many penguins. The scenery is magnificent, and by looking at it, you get some sense of what the man must have been like.

Launching the James Caird. Photo Frank Hurley.

Launching the James Caird. Photo Frank Hurley.

Shortly after my visit to Gritviken we managed to pass near Elephant island. We could not land as an iceberg almost as big as the island was blocking the channel and the ship couldn’t get in. As the weather turned from sunshine to sleet and snow and the mist came down, the Skipper cruised as close as he could to Point Wild, which is were Shackleton left the rest of his crew before going on to South Georgia. At first it did not look as if we would be able to see it but at the last moment the weather eased off and there it was, Point Wild.

Elephant Isand, you can see the icebergs to the left and right and the ice in the forground.

Elephant Isand, you can see the icebergs to the left and right and the ice in the forground.
Half an hour later it started to snow, but there in the murk was Point Wild just to the right of the iceberg.

Half an hour later it started to snow, but there in the murk was Point Wild just to the right of the iceberg.

To have been, however briefly, in the same waters as Shackleton and his crew and to see what he had endured gave all of us a great feeling of pride in the man, and a hope that there are still their like around if we ever need them. And to think this was summer and they did it in winter. As I said before, you just couldn’t make it up.

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Taxiarcos

Rame Head with its little chapel guards the entrance to the Bay. The chapel dates back to 600AD and has been used as a church and a lookout. It was from here that a beacon was lit to warn Drake of the approach of the Spanish Armada.

Rame Chapel.

Rame Chapel.

At the bottom of these cliffs lie the remains of the Greek brigantine the Taxiarcos wrecked in 1846. You won’t see anything of her unless you come around by boat and snorkel on her, but bits of her, mainly her anchors and a winch, are still there rammed into the rocks. OK, it is a bit of a stretch, but bear with me as the walk to the chapel and the views are spectacular and you won’t regret it.

The Greek BrigTaxiarcos became wrecked, not because of a storm, but because of a mix up in the course to steer and a sad lack of knowledge of the local tides.The vessel was brand new and had put into Falmouth for a Pilot. Coming up channel from the Danube under a full press of sail, the brigantine, under the command of Captain Vafrapola was bound for Hull with a cargo of grain. As she approached Rame Head on January 27th in a calm sea, the duty helmsman mistook the course and steered north east instead of southeast, and ran right into the bottom of the cliffs surrounding Rame Head.

One of the Taxiarcos's anchors. Photo Dave Peake.

One of the Taxiarcos’s anchors. Photo Dave Peake.

All fourteen of the crew scrambled ashore and sought refuge in the old chapel at the top of Rame Head.Local coast guards found the crew and gave them food and bedding, and in the morning they were taken to Cawsand for repatriation to their own country.As the tide ebbed, a heavy ground swell broke the ship up completely on the evening tide. The local press severley critisised the Pilot and advised that before he considered another job he should read up ‘The Remarks on the Navigation of the English Channel’ in the local tide tables.

Part of a winch drum? Photo Dave Peake.

Part of a winch drum? Photo Dave Peake.

You can scramble down the seaward side of Rame quite easily (all the shore fishermen do) and overlook the site.The views towards the Mewstone are fantastic and you will probably come across some of the wild deer that like to sun themselves on the slopes.

Coast Watch

Coast Watch

On your way back to the car park you can visit the Coast Watch Station manned by volunteers. They took the place of the regular Coast Guard when the station was shut down with most of the others along the coast during a Government reorganization. They do an excellent job and are always happy to chat to you about what they do.

Coast Only candles in this church.

Coast Only candles in this church.

On the way to the car park you will have passed the little church of Rame It dates back to 1259, and has no electricity, so all the services are lit by candle light. It’s a lovely little church and is nearly always open. In the graveyard that surrounds it are plenty of reminders of the toll that the sea takes.

Plenty of shipwrecks to be found.

Plenty of shipwrecks to be found.

Mizzen Mast Of The Great Britain

Mizzen mast of the Great Britain

Designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, the Great Britain was launched at Bristol in July 19 1843, and was the largest ship afloat in the world at that time. She arrived storm damaged at Stanley in 1886 and remained for over eighty years being used for various storage purposes, and became a familiar part of the landscape.

what's left of the Mizzen mast

what’s left of the Mizzen mast

Finally abandoned and rotting she was recovered from these waters in a truly amazing salvage operation, transported back to Bristol on a huge barge, arriving in July 1970 where she underwent full restoration and is now open to the public.

All this was made possible due in large part to the generosity of Sir (Union)Jack Hayward O.B.E.

All this was made possible due in large part to the generosity of Sir (Union)Jack Hayward O.B.E.
Looking towards the main jetty

Looking towards the main jetty

Jhelum

The Jhelum is a 128 ft boat built in 1849 at Liverpool. Her name comes from a tributary of the Indus river in India. She left Calloa for Dunkirk on the 13 July 1870 overloaded, and rounded Cape Horn with great difficulty.

The Jhelum

The Jhelum

She managed to put into Stanley on 18 Aug 1870 and her crew had so little faith in her ability to complete the voyage that they refused to put to sea in her.

The Plans of the Jhelum.Photo stanley museum.

The Plans of the Jhelum.Photo stanley museum.

The ship was sold locally and scuttled in her present location to serve as a jetty cum workshop and storage area.

Jhelum bows

Jhelum bows

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands Wreck Trail

In 2007 I was lucky enough to go down to the Antarctic on M.V. Discovery. On the way we stopped at the Falkland Islands where, amongst all the wonderful wildlife, they also have lots of abandoned clipper ships and other vessels.

M.V. Discovery at the Antarctic Peninsular

M.V. Discovery at the Antarctic Peninsular

Many are on the other Islands, which I did not have time to see, but a few are easily accessible around Port Stanley, and there is a great museum to go and find out more.

Falklands Overview

Jhelum

Gentoo and Golden Chance

Lady Elizabeth

Mizzen mast of Great Britain

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Submerged Books and DVDs

The Wreckers Guide To South West Devon Part 1
The Wrecker's Guide To South West Devon Part 1
The Wreckers Guide To South West Devon Part 2
The Wrecker's Guide To South West Devon Part 2
Plymouth Breakwater Book
The Plymouth Breakwater Book
The Plymouth Breakwater DVD
The Plymouth Breakwater DVD
Shooting Magic DVD
Shooting Magic DVD
Devon Shipwrecks DVD
Devon Shipwrecks DVD
The Silent Menace DVD
The Silent Menace DVD
The Tragedy Of The HMS Dasher DVD
The Tragedy Of the The HMS Dasher DVD
Missing  DVD
Missing: The Story Of The A7 Submarine DVD
HMS Royal Oak DVD
HMS Royal Oak DVD
Bombs And Bullets DVD
Bombs And Bullets DVD
Bay Watch DVD
Bay Watch DVD

Search Submerged

Devon Shipwrecks

  • Blesk
  • Bolt Head To Bolt Tail
  • Cantabria
  • HMS Coronation and the Penlee Cannons
  • Deventure
  • Dimitrios
  • Elk
  • Empire Harry
  • HMS Foyle
  • Fylrix
  • Glen Strathallen
  • Halloween
  • Herzogin Cecillie
  • Hiogo
  • James Egan Layne
  • Jebba
  • Liberta
  • Louis Shied
  • Maine
  • Medoc
  • Nepaul
  • Oregon
  • Persier
  • Plymouth Breakwater
  • Poulmic
  • Prawle Point
  • Ramillies
  • Riversdale
  • Rosehill
  • Skaalla
  • Soudan
  • Sunderland
  • Flying Boats
  • Scylla
  • Totnes Castle
  • Vectis
  • Viking Princess
  • Yvonne

World Shipwrecks

  • Narvik
  • Scilly Isles
  • Scapa Flow
  • Truk Lagoon
  • Falmouth
  • Other World Wrecks
  • South Africa
  • Tombstones
  • Submarines
  • The Ones That Got Away
  • Bombs And Bullets
  • Marine Archeology
  • Wreck Walks

Shipwreck Book Reviews

  • Neutral Buoyancy – Tim Ecott
  • Admiral Shovell’s Treasure-R.Larn & R.McBride
  • The Silent Service – John Parker
  • Scapa Flow In War And Peace-W.S.Hewison
  • This Great Harbour-W.S.Hewison
  • The Duchess-Pamela Eriksson
  • Stokers Submarine-Fred &Liz Brencley
  • The Wreck at Sharpnose Point – J.Seale
  • Business in Great Waters – John Terraine
  • Submarine in Camera – Hall & Kemp
  • Autumn of the Uboats – Geoff Jones
  • Under the Red Sea – Hans Hass
  • To Unplumbed Depths – Hans Hass
  • Goldfinger – Keith Jessop
  • Custom of the Sea – Niel Hanson
  • Stalin’s Gold – Barry Penrose
  • Pieces of Eight – Kip Wagner
  • The Man Who Bought a Navy – Gerald Bowman
  • The Treasure Divers – Kendall McDonald
  • The Deepest Days – Robert Stenhuit
  • The Wreck Hunters – Kendal McDonald
  • Sea Diver – Marion Clayton Link
  • The Other Titanic – Simon Martin
  • Falco,chief diver of the Calypso – Falco & Diole
  • World without Sun – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Ship of Gold – Gary Kinder
  • Seven Miles Down – Piccard & Dietz
  • The Living Sea – J.Y.Cousteau
  • The Undersea Adventure – Philip Diole
  • Life and Death in a Coral Sea – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Dolphins – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Whale – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Shark – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Sea Lion- Elephant Seal and Walrus – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Octopus and Squid – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Shadow Divers – Robert Kurson
  • A Time to Die, the story of the Kursk – R. Moore
  • The Sea Around Us – Rachel Carson

© 1999–2025 Peter Mitchell and Chris Mitchell. All rights reserved.