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The Wreck of the Conqueror

The Conqueror is the ship that started it all for me. I had always been interested in shipwrecks, and had already dived on many. But until the Conqueror, I had not really thought about documenting them. In the 70’s and 80’s, Devon and Cornwall seemed to attract an abnormal amount of shipwrecks, and I spent many happy hours climbing precariously down cliffs and scrambling over rocks to examine them.
The Conqueror was the first of these wrecks, stranded on the rocks off Penzer Point near Mousehole.

The Conqueror.

The Conqueror.

The Conqueror was a modern freezer trawler built by Hall, Russel & Co Ltd in Aberdeen1965, for the Northern Trawlers Company. By 1977 she had undergone a major refit to extend her freezer capacity, and left her home port of Hull to go mackerel fishing in Cornwall. On the 26 December 1977 she was off Penzer Point with 250 tons of mackerel on board when she ran into bad weather, and ran aground on the rocks nearby, in the darkness of the early morning. None of her 27 crew were hurt or injured and it was something of a mystery why the wrecking took place, as although the winds were blowing force eight, the sea was relatively calm. In any event the Penlee lifeboat was called and swiftly took of most of the crew to nearby Newlyn, leaving the skipper, Charles Thresh, and three others on board to see if they could help refloat her. By now the engineering steering flat and the tunnel to the engine room was full of water, with the stern firmly aground on the rocks.

Hard aground off Penzer Point.

Hard aground off Penzer Point.

The Trinity House vessel Stella, and the trawlers Farnella and Junella stood by the stricken vessel until the salvage tug Biscay Sky turned up with some huge water pumps. Meanwhile the skipper and his mates had tried to patch some of the worst holes and got the pumps working. The salvage team continued the hard work, and were within a couple of days of being ready to pull her off, when the weather turned nasty again. A sudden gale blew up, and left the Conqueror with a 45 degree list, and submerged from the stern to midships. On the 21 January 1978 the salvage divers reported that she was now too badly holed to get off, so they packed up their gear and the Conqueror was abandoned to the sea.

They had already removed some of the engine.

They had already removed some of the engine.

It was a few days after she had been abandoned that I went to see her for myself. If you look closely at the photos, you will see a rope ladder hanging from the bow. I scrambled up that with my mate, and together we made our way towards part of the engine room. Although the stern was firmly grounded it was still twisting in the waves, and as the tide set in the waves bounced off the stern plates with a noise like a gong. The water right at the stern was pulsing up towards us with every new wave and the deck was slippery with oil. With the whole ship canted over on her starboard side, it was hard to keep our footing. All thought of getting a souvenir disappeared as the water got closer to us. The stern seemed to be twisting even more, and the banging got louder. We slipped and slid back to the rope ladder and thankfully climbed down to the safety of the rocks.

This was taken about five years after she stranded.

This was taken about five years after she stranded.

The Conqueror stayed stuck on the rocks for some years before she finally slipped beneath the waves. She became something of a local tourist attraction, so much so, that in the early days the Police had to re- route traffic around Mousehole as it was getting completely grid locked.

What a sorry end to a fine ship.

What a sorry end to a fine ship.

I finally got to dive the wreck in August 1990, so anything I say here will be ancient history. Parts of it must have been quite shallow, as my Logbook states that there was quite a lot of kelp on her, and that she was quite broken up, but in big pieces, and lots of them, with a few nets wrapped around the crane areas. The wreck is lying more or less upright, and the deepest part is in about 20 meters. Vis was about 20 feet, so for the photographer it will be quite interesting.

Barty Coe – The Skippers Story

I was skipper of the Asdale the night she ran ashore. I would just like give a first hand account of what took place on that fateful night. After landing our catch of mackerel to the Russian klondyker Antarctica, we found that our steering would not work and requested to the skipper that we stay tied up to his vessel till we sorted the problem, and would it be possible, because of the deteriorating weather conditions to put more ropes onto him. Due to language difficulties this did not happen but they send two of their men, one an electrician, the other a engineer aboard to assist the repair. In the meantime the trawler Boston Blenheim came out of Falmouth to try and tow us into the harbor. The wind by now had reached about force 8. After three attempts a line was passed across and our warp end was hove across to the Blenheim, but before a tow could be secured the Blenheim fell across Antarctica’s bow and sustained damage to her starboard quarter and further attempts were abandoned. By now the weather had worsened, winds reaching force 10 from the east, causing the Antarctica’s anchor to drag and both boats were being driven toward the shore,and our forward ropes parted, causing us to swing under her stern. To avoid damage the remaining mooring ropes were let go and we dropped our anchor but this did not hold. By this time we were only about quarter of a mile from shore and a mayday was sent out. It was only a matter of minutes before we were driven onto the rocks. We remained in touch with the coastguard who informed us that help was on the way from the shore. Attempts were made to launch the life rafts on the starboard side, but after getting three men into them they both broke adrift, we found out later that two men made it to the shore and the other had been thrown out of the raft. The shore rescue arrived and a breaches buoy was rigged between the cliff and the ships mast on the wheelhouse top. Just as we were about to have the first crewmember enter the buoy the ship turned over onto its port side taking with it all the rescue equipment. Out of the four of us on the wheelhouse, myself and two others managed to scramble over the side of the wheelhouse into the well of the starboard veranda. The mate had tried to come down a ladder at the back of the wheelhouse and had slipped, but was holding on. I tried to grab him by the hand but he slipped from my grasp and vanished into the sea. The two Russians who had came onboard made signs that they were going to try and swim ashore and could not be persuaded not to. They climbed over the ship and made their way to the anchor well. We found out later that one had attempted to swim ashore and had perished. The remaining crew were eventually taken off by helicopter and I was last to leave the vessel. We were taken to Culdrose naval base and because of the snow that had fallen, were unable to leave for 3 days. Sometime later the boat was checked over by the then DTI who found that the steering had been jammed by a nut that had come loose inside one of the hydraulic steering rams and there was no way it could have been detected at sea. We later heard that three men and their father, the Billcliffe’s, had attempted to help us. One can only give you all praise as well as all others that helped on the night, the helicopter crew who, because of the ferociousness of the weather were told they did not have to fly, thank God they did, Lifeboat and coastguards crews. On a final note I visited the wreck site in 2003 with the intention of looking up the Billciffe family but found that a new holiday complex had been built at Maenporth were their hotel had once been. One thing that did upset me while I was making enquiries as to what happened to the family, were the comments from the desk clerk at the new hotel. I had not told him who I was but told him I had been along looking at the remains of the wreck, to which he told me the Scottish crew had all been full of drink it being New Year. Well you can imagine how I felt, I told him who I was, and for a start we were all crew from North Shields, not Scottish, and we did not carry drink on the boat. I’m afraid I can’t tell you what I ended up calling this fellow.

Commander Mike Norman

I am very gratefull to Commander Mike Norman Royal Navy, who was the Captain of Sea King 592, for his first hand account of this epic rescue.
Portrait of Commander Mike Norman. O.B.E., A.F.C., R.N.

Portrait of Commander Mike Norman. O.B.E., A.F.C., R.N.

It is 33 years almost to the day since the tragedy of the South Shields trawler BEN ASDALE but to me it still feels like yesterday. I was the Captain of the aircraft. I have had couple of occasions in my naval career when the minute details of focussed and intense activity remain as clear as day; the other being the moment an Exoccet missile hit HMS SHEFFIELD in the Falklands WAR and sunk her.I was Second in Command and First Lieutenant of that Type 42 Missile Destroyer, now thirty years ago, and grateful to have survived where twenty of our ships company did not and whose grave is the South Atlantic”. I am very heartened to read Skipper Barty Coe’s comments putting the record straight and I hope he gets to read mine. I was also pleased to read Peter and Mike Billcliffe’s comments although I don’t think I ever met them. As regards the events on that wild night, the Captain of RNAS Culdrose , Captain ‘Jock’ Tofts decided the weather and icing conditions were outside limits and that it was a ‘no-go’. But then we heard in the Culdrose Ops Room from the Falmouth Coastguard that the ‘Breaches Buoy’ attempt had failed and since the Falmouth lifeboat could not get near the vessel the only remaining means of rescue was by helicopter. Captain Tofts left the decision with me and after consultation with the rest of my duty SAR crew we decided we would give it our best shot since if we didn’t it was unlikely those eight left onboard would see the morning.

Photo 691 shows the naval aircrews and ground crews plus supporting station emergency personnel on SAR duty at RNAS Culdrose over the Christmas and New Year period in 1978/79, heroes everyone of them.

Photo 691 shows the naval aircrews and ground crews plus supporting station emergency personnel on SAR duty at RNAS Culdrose over the Christmas and New Year period in 1978/79, heroes everyone of them.

I won’t go into a blow by blow account but suffice to say it was the most challenging bit of flying any of us had done before or since. One could say it was a close run thing since on lift number 3 when a survivor was picked up with a huge swing on the winch wire the aircraft became almost uncontollable. As one Coastguard Officer said later ” the rotor blades were almost touching the cliffs at one point” And as the rescue progressed the intercom between the crew failed and a lot of the internal communication was done on bits of paper being passed backwards and forwards ! On top of that we had also lost communiaction with the Air Station who we learned later had a power failure and there was no ‘get you home’ radar assistance. But we did manage to complete the rescue and make it home due in no small measure to our excellent training, good teamwork and quite a lot of luck!!

Painting by John Hamilton

Painting by John Hamilton

We were all grateful to have been acknowledged for our efforts later; that is the First Pilot Lt Tony Hogg, later to become the Captain of RNAS Culdrose; the Second Pilot, Lt Larry Jeram-Croft; Leading Aircrewman Jan Folland; Medical assistant Brain Steele, a volunteer from Culdrose Sick Bay and myself, the Captain and Observer. I wonder if the Billcliffe Brothers received recognition for their bravery ? They certainly deserved it. After this long night we all went to the Sick Bay after putting the aircraft to bed, at around 0630, to see our survivors, one of them a Russian, all tucked up in bed and recovering, some from hypothermia. After a hearty breakfast and an hours kip we were off again to take a pregnant woman who was cut off in the snow, to hospital. It was a few days later that the reality sunk in and how close we had come to the BEN ASDALE rescue being a horrific disaster. Eyewitness accounts are always very thrilling and this is no exception, except that it rather modestly understates the sheer enormity of the task that faced the pilot and crew of Sea King 592. Two Airforce crosses, and 3 Queens commendations were awarded for this intrepid rescue. You can read the citations from the London Gazette below.You really could not make this up.

Lt Commander Michael John Norman, Royal Navy.

Lt Commander Michael John Norman, Royal Navy.
Lt Commander Michael John Norman, Royal Navy

Lt Commander Michael John Norman, Royal Navy

Lt. Commander Mike Norman was the captain and observer of Sea King 592 which took off at 0145 on the 31st of December. The aircrew had already been briefed that the already atrocious weather would deteriorate and that poor radar reception in the blizzard would probably prevent them returning to Culdrose. Flying at low level to minimise the risk if icing, Seak ing 952 reached maenporth at 0205but was unable to identify the coast, the cove, or the wreck because of the darkness and poor visibility in the blizzard. The gale blowing directly into the cove added to the helicopters difficulties by making an approach from seaward impossible. Using bearings radioed from a coast guard vehicle on the cliffs, Lt Commander Norman had the aircraft fly a circuit until the vehicle’s searchlight became visible. The aircraft was then flown over the vehicle and given a steep decent, establishing it in an automatic hover some thousand yards from the coast. Lt. Commander Norman asked the coastguard to con the aircraft rearwards to a position over the wreck. Aided by the clifftop searchlight this was successfully accomplished despite an increase in the wind strength to Force 9. By now three of the trawlermen had reached the shore in a dingy but three others had been swept away by the heavy seas which were continually breaking over the wreck, now on its side, sometimes concealing it from the view of the aircraft 50 feet above Lt.Commander Norman judged the conditions to be too treacherous to put his crewman down in a double lift strop and decided to use a single strop instead. The rescue began with Lt. Commander Norman controlling the aircraft’s attitude the 1st Pilot maintaining height on the radio altimeter, the Crewman operating the winch and the Co-Pilot watching what little of the cliff could occasionally be seen whilst maintaining radio contact with the Coastguard. Despite problems with holding position over the wreck the first two lifts were successfully completed.

Painting by John Hamilton

Painting by John Hamilton

Lt. Commander Norman then decided to attempt the next lift with the Pilot in full control of the aircraft to facilitate a better hover and provide easier access to the forward part of the aircraft for the cold and virtually immobile survivors. At this stage the aircrafts intercom began to deteriorate and with the Pilot now having to rely on verbal instructions from the Observer it was even more difficult to maintain position. The third survivor was lifted with a large swing on the wire as the aircraft, caught by the gale, lurched towards the cliffs which were about 50 yards away but not visible. The winch wire snagged and cut into a fairing aft of the cabin door and lt. Commander Norman realised that the only way to free it was to lower the survivor into the sea to take the weight off the wire. This manoeuvre was sussessfully completed despite the difficulty in communicating with the aircrew. With the snow storm intensifying, the reaward transit into the cove was repeated with Coastguard assistance. At this point Lt. Commander Norman seriously considered abandoning the rescue, but realising that there was no other rescue method available to the trawlermen he decided to continue since it was doubtful wheather the crew could survive unaided for much longer. The remaining five lifts were completed with increasing difficulty as the intercom worsened and finally failed leaving Lt. Commander Norman with no method of communication with his Pilots since it was too dark to see hand signals.

Lt Tony Hogg First Pilot, Lt Larry Jeram- Croft Second pilot, Lt Cdr Mike Norman Observer and a/c Captain, and Leading Aircrewman Jan Folland, Winch Operator. Leading Medical Attendant Brian Steele is not present. He was a volunteer from the sick bay at RNAS Culdrose.

Lt Tony Hogg First Pilot, Lt Larry Jeram- Croft Second pilot, Lt Cdr Mike Norman Observer and a/c Captain, and Leading Aircrewman Jan Folland, Winch Operator. Leading Medical Attendant Brian Steele is not present. He was a volunteer from the sick bay at RNAS Culdrose.

With all eight survivors on board, the helicopter attempted to return to Culdrose despite the complications caused by the intercom failure and poor radar reception. Eventually the intercom recovered and Lt. Commander Norman was able to direct his aircraft to a position overhead the field using the aircraft’s radar. Once the aircraft had been landed, the survivors were taken to the sick bay, and in spite of two cases of hypothermia all those rescued by the helicopter survived. Lt. Commander Norman led his crew in extremely difficult circumstances of weather, sea state and aircraft serviceability in one of the most dangerous rescues undertaken by a Naval aircraft in recent years. It is largely because of the leadership, professional competence, calm, clear thinking, and great courage displayed by him in these atrocious conditions that those who remained on board the Ben Asdale were saved.

The Queen has been graciously pleased to aprove the award of the Air Force Cross.
Lt.Anthony John Marsden Hogg, Royal Navy.

Lt. Hogg was the 1st pilot of SeaKing 592 which was launched in the early hours of 31st December 1978 to rescue the crew of the Trawler Ben Asdale.

Lt. Hogg

Lt. Hogg

Weather conditions on take off were atrocious and through out this hazardous rescue the aircraft was flown well beyond its normal weather limits. As the rescue proceeded the wind strength increased to Force 9, visibility deteriorated as the blizzard intensified and communications worsened as the aircrafts intercom steadily failed cutting lt. Hogg off from his fellow crew members. Nonetheless, he remained calm and in control throughout although he knew that on occasions the aircraft was being blown dangerously close to the cliffs. The turbulence of the air and rough seas produced extraordinary variations in pitch and roll and yet Lt. Hogg remained unruffled as he maintained the aircrafts height and monitored its attitude whilst hovering. On completion of the rescue, with the intercom totally failed, Lt. Hogg attempted to fly the aircraft back to Culdrose. However radar reception in the blizzard was so poor that it was only when the intercom recovered that the aircraft could return using its own radar information interpreted by the Observer. Lt. Hogg remained composed throughout this highly dangerous operation. He co-operated closely with the Captain of the aircraft to achieve the rescue in the most effective way possible even though this method took a large part of the aircraft’s control away from him. He showed great courage, supreme professional competence and devotion to duty in the face of almost impossible conditions.

Queen’s Commendation for valuable service in the air.
Lt. Lawrence Maynard Jeram-Croft

Lt. Lawrence Maynard Jeram-Croft

Lt. Lawrence Maynard Jeram-Croft, Royal Navy. For his skill and personal courage as Co-Pilot of Sea King 592 in coping with communications difficulties during the hazardous rescue of survivors from the wrecked trawler Ben Asdale on 31st December 1978

Queen’s Commendation for valuable service in the air.

Queen’s Commendation for valuable service in the air.

Leading Aircrewman Christopher John Folland, D105603U. For his skill and personal courage as the Winchman of Sea King 592 during the hazardous rescue of survivors from the wrecked trawler Ben Asdale on 31st December 1978.

Queen’s Commendation for Brave Conduct.

Leading Medical Assistant Brian David Steele, D082890Y. For his courage and devotion to duty as the Medical Assistant of Sea King 592 during the hazardous rescue of survivors from the wrecked trawler Ben Asdale on 31st December 1978. (unfortunately no photo)

All that's left of the Ben Asdale

All that’s left of the Ben Asdale

The Wreck of the Ben Asdale

Here is a wreck that everybody can enjoy because you do not have to dive on it. You can either look down on it from the headland, or when the tide is out you can scramble over the rocks and walk right up to it. Maenporth Beach is a great beach to visit anyway, with a pub and a snack bar right next to the beach, and easy parking. Enjoy.

The Ben Asdale two days after she struck.

The Ben Asdale two days after she struck.

On the evening of 30th December 1979 the freezer trawler Ben Asdale was off loading fish into the hold of the Russian factory ship Antartica, which was anchored in Falmouth Bay. The weather was appalling, with a force eight gale blowing and heavy snow falling. When the Ben Asdale had finished discharging her cargo of mackerel, she cast off her stern rope in preparation to move away from the anchored Antartika. Unfortunately the rope fouled her rudder and she would not respond to her helm. The skipper, Barney Coe, tried to get the Russians to re secure the stern of his vessel but by now the fierce gale was dragging both boats. The Russians sent over two officers to assist in getting the steering working and shortly after the bow rope parted and the Ben Asdale was adrift at the mercy of the sea.

The Ben Asdale.

The Ben Asdale.

The skipper let go an anchor but it failed to hold, and as they were swept towards Manenporth beach, a Mayday was sent. With the wind now gusting force ten and the waves breaking over the trawler, she was out of control, and soon piled onto the rocks at the bottom of Newporth Head. As the boat struck the rocks one of the crew jumped over the side gravely injuring himself, and others threw out anything to act as life rafts.

By now word of the trawlers troubles had spread and the three Billcliffe brothers who had a hotel by the beach rushed to the scene and with no regard for their own safety waded straight into the raging surf and during that night dragged three of the crew to safety. Up on Newporth head, the Coastguard had arrived and was setting up a breaches buoy. The blizzard was now so bad that nobody could see hardly anything, and searchlights were rigged. As the breaches buoy was connected to the stricken trawler she lurched and rolled onto her side jamming all the gear. Luckily the rescue helicopter had by now arrived from Coldrose but could not see what was going on down on the hulk of the trawler because of the swirling blizzard.

The Ben Asdale today.

The Ben Asdale today.

The Coastguard set up a radio link with the pilot, to guide the helicopter, which had to fly backwards over the wreck because of the winds and the nearness of the Headland. Over a period of about one and a half hours the helicopter lowered its winch eight times and successfully lifted off a crewman. Whilst all this was happening three of the crew despaired and tried to swim to a shore that looked temptingly near. In the end eleven people were saved, but sadly in spite off all the efforts of the emergency services and the courageous Billcliffe brothers, three men, two Britons and a Russian were drowned, their bodies washed up the next day on Maenporth Beach.

This was taken in 2011.

This was taken in 2011.

Vallhalla

Valhalla The Scillies lies forty miles from the tip of Lands End and on the charts this group of 145 islands resembles a handful of large boulders scattered into the sea by an angry giant. With fierce seas, strong tides and often blanketed in fog, the Scillies has a fearsome reputation as a ship killer and its rocky shores are littered with more shipwrecks than anyone can truly count. However when the Scillies are not wrecking ships, it is blessed with a beautiful sub tropical climate and its Botanical Gardens on Tresco are world famous. Tucked into a small corner of the gardens is Valhalla, a collection of ships figure heads, gathered from the unfortunate shipwrecks that have been smashed to pieces on the Scillies unforgiving shores. Here are just a few of their many stories.

Falkland

Falkland
Falkland

Falkland

The Bishops Rock Lighthouse stands at the western gate of the Scilly Islands and has been witness to many shipwrecks, but the four masted Liverpool barque Falkland managed to strike the lighthouse itself. Loaded with grain, the Falkland, built in 1889 for the Palace Shipping Company and commanded by Capt. Gracie was 135 days out from Tacoma when she encountered a severe south westerly gale which broke some of her mast stays. Driven towards Bishops Rock she struck the lighthouse broadside on, one of her huge masts striking the lamp tower itself. The gale blew her of the rocks and as she drifted to the north, twenty five of the crew and the Captains wife and young child managed to escape in one of the ships lifeboats. Capt. Gracie wasn’t to be so lucky. He led the rest of the crew to the other boat but it was jammed on its skids. By the time they got it free the Falkland fell beam on to the waves and sank like a stone, drowning him and the rest of the crew.

Sophie

Sophie

In the days of sail derelict ships often became a navigational hazard. Overwhelmed by storms the crews often fearing the worse would take to the ships lifeboats only to find later after they had been rescued that their ship still floated, and that they had been too quick off the mark.One such case was that of the Norwegian barque Sophie of Frederikstad carrying a cargo of coal from Swansea. She was sighted on the 15 December 1896 dismasted and wallowing in heavy seas off Shipman head. Ten local men put out in a gig to board her and found her completely derelict except for a well fed dog. The cabin was laid up for a meal, the clock still ticking and half prepared food warm in the galley. It was as if everybody had vanished which is in fact what had happened.

Sophie

Sophie

Dismasted with the ship leaking badly and thinking they were about to smash onto the rocks the crew had abandoned the ship and been rescued some time later by the British steamer Glenmore who ended up taking them to safety in Gibralter. As for the Sophie she was towed to new Grimsby Sound by the Tresco and St. Martins gigs, the lifeboat and the Lady of the Isles where she was securely anchored. Unfortunately she was not worth saving so her hulk was sold to Algernon Doreen-Smith who ran a horticulture business on Tresco. He used the coal to heat his greenhouses and the wood from the ship around his estate in Tresco.

Bernardo

Bernardo

The Bernardo was a barque of 701tons belonging to G.B. Degrogori of Camogli Italy. She was only thirteen years old, when in March 1888, loaded with ballast she was approaching the Scillies in a fierce northwest gale when her sails were torn to shreds. Finding herself helpless to manoeuvre she was blown ashore on the island of Annet. The ships lifeboat was launched but soon capsized in the heavy seas drowning all its eleven crew. Captain dapelo who was still trying to organize the other boat was forced to swim for his life, as the ship pounding furiously on the shore broke up underneath him. He managed to swim to the nearby Old Woman Rock, where he clung helplessly until he was rescued by passing fishermen. The Bernardo quickly went to pieces in the heavy seas, and all that was left was the figurehead.

Figurehead

Figurehead

Rosa Tachini The Paper Ledges lie just north of the Nut rock, and it was here that the Rosa Tachini became shipwrecked after coming adrift in a savage south westerly gale in November 1872. She was on her way from Buenos Aires to Antwerp loaded with hides, wool and tallow. She struck the ledges twice before settling on the rocks. She resisted being floated off and so became a total loss.

Rosa Tachini

Rosa Tachini

Ralph Brigginshaw – Hardy Survivor

I am extremely gratefull to Ralph Brigginshaw for his ‘memories’ and all his wonderfull photo’s, and to Ron Cope for his hard work in tracking him down. Ralph was born in the village of Chiseldon near Swindon in 1920. He left school at14 which was not unusual in those days. He joined the Navy in July 1935 as a ‘Boy Sailor’ at H.M.S. St.Vincent. He had two brothers who also served in the Navy during the war. On completing his basic training and ‘Signalmans’ course he initially served time on the battleships ‘Rodney’ and ‘Warwick “ a ‘V’ and ‘W’ destroyer during the 1938 crisis.

HMS Rodney in Plymouth Sound

HMS Rodney in Plymouth Sound

.

photo courtesy Navy-Photos

After a spell at Devonport barracks at the age of nineteen he joined ‘Hardy’ and in August 1939 he sailed with the ship to the ‘Med’. The ship’s deployment there just prior to the outbreak of war has previously been described by other crew members.

HMS Hardy-pre WW2

Ralph Brigginshaw

When ‘Hardy’ returned to Devonport after “a mad rush back from Freetown” in West Africa, leave was granted. This was February 1940 and going to be the last he saw of his family for a considerable time. Leave to all watches completed ‘Hardy’ sailed for Scapa Flow. It was here that all the crew were given the opportunity to write their last letters home prior to going on operations in the North Sea and eventually ‘Narvik’. The ‘Hardy’ finally arriving at Narvik, Ralph recalls, “my action station was on the flagdeck and I remember the first run into the harbour. A lot of damage was done but I noticed two torpedoes missed their targets. It was exciting having a good view of the action from the flagdeck”. He goes on to say, that “later on the third run as we turned to starboard I saw three German destroyers approaching also to starboard. It was then a shell came through the flagdeck and the wheelhouse next to us. I remember thinking ‘what a hell of a mess’. I was hit in the centre of my back and arm by shrapnel. I realised I had no use of my arm. My mate Signalman ‘Ginger’ (Cuthbert) Turner had also been wounded.

HMS St. Vincent

HMS St. Vincent

He continues to describe that both of them with other wounded men were eventually put into a ‘whaler’. However, he states, “it was full of holes and sank. I was helped out by Yeoman Thatcher. I said ‘I’ve had enough’ but he replied, ‘don’t be bloody silly’. I was then unconscious for three days. I had been taken to a hospital at Ballangen and was awakened by a loud bang”. (‘Compiler Ron Cope’ – this was probably caused by the sixteen inch shells sent into Narvik harbour by ‘Warspite’ in the 2nd Battle on 13th April). It was planned that the more seriously wounded men, including Ralph, were to be taken to the ‘Lofoton Islands’ to be picked up by HMS Penelope, a cruiser, instead of the destroyers. However, previously the Penelope had hit a rock and was then needed to be towed by ‘Eskimo’. When the two ships arrived, Penelope would not take them on board and after a few discussions it was decided the wounded men should go to a hospital ashore. This was the Gravdal Hospital (Gravdal Skyehus) on the island of Vestvagey in the Lofoton.

HMS Hardy-pre WW2

HMS Hardy-pre WW2
photo navy-photos

Ralph remained a patient there for six weeks. He recalls, “I was then cared for by a family. Later, some of the lads came along and suddenly told me to get ready for transport in a local fishing boat. I spent my 20th birthday cruising up the fjord”. He then arrived at ‘Tromso’ a few days later, just in time catch the last hospital ship ‘Atlantis’ leaving for Britain. He continues, “I arrived at Liverpool about the 9th June, but because of a relapse, I needed to be stretched ashore”. However, Ralph’s journey was not quite over having then to endure a train journey to a hospital near Glasgow.

Ralph at HMS St. Vincent

Ralph at HMS St. Vincent

“Then two and half years of changing from hospital to hospital, including Winwick Hospital, near Warrington in Lancashire. I had another hiccup there. They used a bone from one leg to patch up the arm and when the plaster was taken off, sent me to a hospital near Bristol for recuperation. Unfortunately they left me alone on the station with a full kitbag. As I lifted the bag to put it on the rack in the train, I heard and felt a big crack. On arriving in the hospital they confirmed the arm had been broken again. So within 48 hours I was back at Warrington. They then took a bit of bone from the other leg and patched me up again”.

Kit muster at HMS St.Vincent.

Kit muster at HMS St.Vincent.

By July 1940, Ralph had lost touch with his shipmate ‘Ginger’ Turner. So he decided to write to him. Sadly, Ralph received a reply from Ginger’s mother to say that a week before his own discharge from hospital he had gone sailing nearby with a nurse. The boat had overturned and he had drowned.

HMS Cygnet

HMS Cygnet
photo by navy-photos

Ralph was finally discharged from hospital in October 1942 and drafted back to Devonport barracks. He was very pleased to be drafted to a ship within a month. “I was sent to a new ‘Sloop’ HMS ‘Cygnet’ who had just been built at Birkenhead. We did our ‘acceptance trials’ in the Clyde and then sailed to Tobermoy for our final sea trials. Unfortunately, she ran aground on entering the harbour. I was then loaned to the ‘Black Swan’ for the North African ‘Landings’. After awhile I returned to ‘Cygnet’ in time for the Sicily ‘Landings’. From then I had a few months in the North Atlantic before going to HMS Mercury for the ‘Yeomans’ course. On completion, whilst waiting for transport to Canada to pick up a new ‘Algerine’ minesweeper I spent a spell on a Polish destroyer at ‘Slapton Sands’ in South Devon . This was in readiness for the ‘D Day’ Landings”.

HMS Black Swan

HMS Black Swan
photo courtesy navy-photos

Ralph remained in the Royal Navy till 1950 leaving as a ‘Yeoman of Signals’. However, he still had problems with his back injury. On his release to ‘Civvy Street’ initially he was manager for a Radio and Electrical Shop in Brighton. He was later transferred by the firm to Crawley. During which time he completed a correspondence course in ‘electronics’. Once attaining qualifications he secured employment at Gatwick Airport as a ‘Radio and Radar Engineer’. In between times he married Betty in 1957.

Ralph and Betty

Ralph and Betty

Anthony Ronayne B.E.M. survivor from H.M.S. Hardy

I joined the Royal Navy on 16th September 1939 as a Steward. My Naval number is E/LX23255 H.M.S. St. Angelo. My first ship was H.M.S. Hardy and although my main job was that of a Steward, my action station was as an ammunition supplier to one of the five 4.7 inch guns. On 30th September 1939 we sailed for Gibraltar. After a few days there, we went to the Canary Islands, then, we went to Sierra Leone, Freetown West Africa, to join Force K consisting of the Ark Royal, Renown, Neptune and six destroyers. We started patrol from Freetown straight down to South America and back for a whole month in search of the Battle Cruiser Graf Spee.

Anthony recieving his commemerative copy of the George Medal, which all serving members of the Armed Forces recieved.

Anthony recieving his commemerative copy of the George Medal, which all serving members of the Armed Forces recieved.

We entered Montevideo harbour for oil not very far from Rio de Janeiro. Afterwards we had a signal at 5am from H.M.S. Exeter, Ajax, Achilles (as Force K). We tried to catch up with them by doing full speed to the River Plate. We arrived too late, the German battle cruiser was already in harbour and the Exeter was so badly damaged that she had to go back to Britain. The Graff Spee was damaged too and had many killed and wounded on board. She went into the harbour with the excuse that she must bury her dead.

Exeter showing her battle damage.

Exeter showing her battle damage.

We waited outside the harbour for her to come out. After a few days of waiting we saw her steaming out of the Harbour, so we were all ready for her. Her Captain knew what was waiting for him outside the harbour but he had already prepared what he was about to do. He landed all the ship’s company and settled the cruiser with very big explosives explosives and lots of black smoke came up high. The Captain stayed on the ship and died there.

The Graff Spee sinking.Photo Paul Simpson.

The Graff Spee sinking.Photo Paul Simpson.

We then sailed for Britain and arrived in Devonport for a refit in January 1940. In February we had anti magnetic detonator systems fitted for protection against magnetic mines. We sailed from there to Scapa Flow, in Orkney where we joined forces with Force K again and started patrols. We sunk a submarine with depth charges at about twenty miles off Greenock, Scotland. We came on patrol in the Atlantic for two months and on April 9th 1940 we had an SOS from H.M.S. Gloworm. It was 11am, very heavy seas with the waves sixty feet high and it was snowing. We could only make seven knots due to the rough sea. At 2-30 pm we arrived on the spot where Gloworm was but we only found patches of oil. H.M.S. Gloworm was sunk. We tried hard to make contact with our force K as we were going to get engaged with the same two German cruisers, Gneisenau and Scharnhorst who had sunk the Gloworm.

The Cruiser Scharnhorst.

The Cruiser Scharnhorst.

We were only two destroyers, hardy and Havoc. At 5pm we made contact with K force, Renown and eight other destroyers. We then started a search for the German cruisers. At 3am on 10th April 1940 we found and engaged the two Cruisers. As hardy and Havoc took action we missed with two salvoes whilst the Germans tried hard to hit us. Havoc then hit the Scharnhorst aft and Renown was hit but no real damage was done. We lost them in the snow, it was too bad visibility. At 11pm we, Hardy, Hunter,Havoc ,Hostile and Hotspur entered Narvik Fjord, Norway.

H.M.S.Hotspur.

H.M.S.Hotspur.

We started action at 11-30pm. We sunk fourteen ships, two submarines, one destroyer and blew up a shore battery. We lost two destroyers, Hardy and Hunter. Our Captain, Warburton Lee was the first one in the war to receive the Victoria Cross. He died after leaving the ship badly wounded in his face. At Narvik Fjord we had to swim ashore. The sea was frozen with snow, the temperature was 38 degrees Fahrenheit below zero. I had shrapnel in my right leg and had to jump from the ship and swim ashore. We swam, and a good job that the place we landed had no soldiers around as their shore battery had been blow to nothing. We then had to walk to a place called Ballengen, fifteen kilometres from Narvik. We started to walk at 8-30am on 11th April 1940 and we arrived at 11-30pm the same day.

H.M.S.Renown

H.M.S.Renown

(In an interview given to a local paper ‘It-Torca published on 16 September 2001 Anthony gives more details how he managed to get safely to the shore. Before jumping into the sea he took off all his clothes except for his underwear. He then put on a life raft and jumped into the freezing water. In the meantime the Germans were firing from the shore on all those in the sea. Whilst swimming he heard an officer shouting for everyone to swim ashore, but a few seconds later this same officer vanished as he was hit in the head and drowned. As Anthony was nearing the shore he met Lt. Fawell who was almost exhausted and helped him to get on shore. Once on the shore they noticed that there was a row of barbed wire. They climbed over it and whilst walking they saw a small fisherman’s hut and went inside. There was nothing there except for a piece of curtain and Anthony wrapped it around him as he was freezing with cold. In the same hut there was a young sailor about sixteen years old who was holding one hand with the other which was ripped off his body, trying to put it back in place. On Hardy there were five Maltese crew members. Anthony together with Guzeppi Micallef and Tony Biffa walked to safety. At one stage Guzeppi Micallef could not walk further and fainted. Along came some Norwegians and put some ice in his mouth to revive him.)

Anthony, on the left, and his shipmate Francis Cauchi.

Anthony, on the left, and his shipmate Francis Cauchi.

Everybody was in agony with frostbite, as very few of us had shoes on. We had many wounded. The Norwegians were good to us, they put us in a school and we all lay on the wooden floor. The women came and brought hot water and bandages and they took good care of us. I was lucky as the women who bandaged my leg the next day, took me to her house and I stayed there until the Second Battle took place. She also tried to hide me so that I stayed there for good, but the officer knew I was staying in the house. The family I was with were very nice people. At midnight the officer and four sailors came for me to take me on board Ivanhoe.

Toni Briffa who was a shipmate of Anthony.

Toni Briffa who was a shipmate of Anthony.

(In the same interview mentioned earlier on, Anthony stated that when he boarded the Ivanhoe he met the other Maltese and they were delighted to see one another once again, and all of them expressed their joy at being so lucky to still be alive. On Ivanhoe it was decided that there was insufficient room for all the survivors so some including Anthony were taken on board H.M.S. Kimberly. Unfortunately she was then ordered back to Narvik to pick up other servicemen and then all of them were transferred to the troop ship Franconia which got back nearly two weeks afterwards . Meanwhile the Ivanhoe had sailed straight back to Scotland and so Anthony learned via the BBC World Service, all about the homecoming of their shipmates and the way they were feted and welcomed back by Winston Churchill)

The Troopship Franconia

The Troopship Franconia

On the way back in the troop ship Frankonia we had many air attacks until we came back to Greenock in Scotland. We arrived at 7am. As soon as we landed we were taken to the Guildhall for dinner. Admiral Andy gave us a speech, how nice it was to be back in the UK. The first chance I had, I ran to the telegraph office and send a telegram home ‘Tony is safe. I had no money for it but everyone in the office wanted to pay. I was dressed in rags and they thought that I was a student, as on that day the students made a Carnival Day. (In the interview to the local newspaper, Anthony reveals that before this telegram was delivered, his family and friends paid for Masses and special prayers to be said in repose of his soul, as was the normal custom in the Roman Catholic Church here in Malta, because all of them were certain that Anthony was dead) We left Greenock next day for Plymouth. We arrived at Drakes barracks, Devonport at 2-30pm. We had been medically tested and given new uniforms and a complete kit. We stayed in the barracks for a few weeks.

Anthony Ronayne B.E.M

Anthony Ronayne B.E.M

Anthony spent twenty five years in the Royal Navy, joining in 1939 at the outbreak of the war and left in 1967. The latter part of his service was as a training instructor at St.Angelo. He was awarded the British Empire Medal (BEM) for gallantry during the war, when his actions in Bari, Italy, saved lives.

Les Smale B.E.M. survivor from H.M.S.Hardy

I am very gratefull to Les Smale B.E.M. for this fascinating account of his part in the battle of Narvik, where he survived the sinking of H.M.S.Hardy. His account is also quite unique, because he wrote it all down so soon after the event.

Les Smale BEM at Ganges

Les Smale BEM at Ganges

I will, while the events are still alive in my memory, attempt to give a description of events which brought me to take part in the Battle of Narvik.
The Hardy left Scapa Flow on the evening of April 2nd, together with the remainder of her division bound for the Shetlands. A little after we had left the boom defences, the air raid defences of Scapa opened up on the dozen or so raiders who were darting around in the almost dusk. A heavier barrage I have never seen. The sky literally had Black Measles. This was our first raid and quite naturally we were all anxious to have a crack at them, but with all our beckoning we couldn’t persuade them to come near enough to open fire. On the whole, I guess we were quite a bit disappointed, still, though we did not then know it, our chance was to come, and soon.

2nd Flottilla at Venice 1938

2nd Flottilla at Venice 1938

Though cold, it was quite calm when we arrived at Sullam Voe (Shetlands) the next morning and after oiling with the Hunter alongside us we went to anchor. It was now the 3rd. Of April and no one seemed to know exactly why we were there or for that matter, where we were going. However Captain (D) was not slow to take advantage of the lovely weather and the time to exercise General Drill to the utmost. Action Stations, Landing Parties, were exercised even to the extent of Hotspur flying a Swastika.

Les Smale

Les Smale

During the Friday evening of the 5th, four of the ‘I’ class destroyers arrived well loaded with mines, following which came all kinds of rumour as to where we were to escort these minelayers. Well, next morning at 0400 hours, we weighed anchor and put to sea and at about eight ‘o’ clock we rendezvoused with the Battle Cruiser H.M.S. Renown. Soon, we were all settled down in our allotted positions and took a course something East of North. The sea was very heavy and so was the rain and by the next morning one couldn’t help but feel the extra nip in the air. This being Sunday, we had, as usual, a little service on the messdeck, after which Lower Deck was cleared and the Captain, (Warburton- Lee) disclosed that during the afternoon we were crossing the Artic Circle, to which he dryly commented that this called for the same procedure as for ‘crossing the Line’ Our final destination, he said, was a little south of Narvik where we were to lay mines at dawn on Monday morning. Off Hoveden 67

H.M.S.Renown. Photo supplied by Paul Simpson

H.M.S.Renown. Photo supplied by Paul Simpson

All through that day the sea was still quite high and it was not until during the night that it began to ease down, and only then because we were getting near land. Dawn of Monday the 8th broke with us at action stations and violating Norwegian neutrality. The mines were all laid within half an hour of the planned time, so despite the weather we had done our first real job well. All that remained for us to do now was to patrol the minefield and guide Norwegian fishermen around it and capture any German ships trying to pass down trough neutral waters which they had previously been doing.
The weather here in the Fiord, was beautiful, hardly a ripple on the water and everything surrounding us covered in a white blanket of snow. Well, here we stopped until just after noon when there came a message from the ‘Gloworm’ (Destroyer) that she was being attacked by two enemy ships and was returning their fire. Then all was quiet and nothing more was heard of her.
Meanwhile, word came for us to join ‘Renown’ and off we went at full speed. The German Fleet was at sea and Blenheims, Hudsons, and all sorts of our bombers were out looking for them in an effort to bomb them. Things were warming up and everyone, though they knew well what the consequences may be, was rather glad. Things were moving rapidly and it was not many hours before we learnt that the German Fleet was moving northwards. Just after 1700 that evening we met the ‘Renown’ who in the meantime had joined up with our minelaying friends of this morning. The sea was now extremely rough and so, for the night, we took up a formation of line ahead. ‘Renown’ leading with ‘Hunter’, ‘Havock’, ‘Hotspur’, and the minelayers following.

H.M.S.Gloworm. Photo supplied by Navy-Photos

H.M.S.Gloworm. Photo supplied by Navy-Photos

At dawn the next day as was usual, we went to action stations. There were snowstorms about and it was still very cold. We must be further North than ever. We were going through the usual procedure when suddenly, without any signal , the ‘Renown’ altered course to Port. Quite naturally all our bridge staff turned their binoculars in that direction. They need not have done, for a snowstorm suddenly fell on us and blacked, or rather whited everything out. The ‘Renown’ then relieved our anxiety by signalling with their big light ‘Two Enemy’. I suppose nobody could express their feelings at that moment. Mine were, I think, a mixture of excitement and expectancy. Wondering if it really was the enemy and what it would be like to be under fire. We were soon to know for in a moment or two the ‘Renown’ opened fire with a broadside of 15inch guns at the leading ship of the two.

Scharnhorst

Scharnhorst

The snow had cleared and we could now see them away on the horizon. We, that is the ‘Hardy’ and ‘Hunter’, opened fire at extreme range on the second ship. There was a honest to good fight for perhaps a quarter of an hour and during that time we realised that the leading ship of the enemy was a cruiser of the ‘Hipper’ class and the other, engaged by just two tiny destroyers was none other than the ‘Scharnhorst’. There were splashes all round us but almost everybody was too busy with their own job to let that worry him. They got a straddle on us and while I was thinking that the next one would ‘see us off’, it never came. It appeared that they were concentrating on the ‘Renown’. There were several good straddles on her and we seemed to be left out of it. Then they, the enemy, turned, not towards us, but away from us, and the speed in such big sea’s as we pursued, was too much for the destroyers to maintain. Several times it seemed that we would break our back, so we had to ease down to about twelve knots. ‘Renown’ was still chasing them and as we went along we passed all kinds of wreckage from an obviously German rubber raft and pole attached, to a Marines’ cap. By now the enemy was out of sight and as ‘Renown’ went over the horizon she signalled us to return to our patrol on the mines. By this time we heard that the Germans had invaded Norway and at last we knew why their fleet had put to sea. On our way back we learned that we had suffered no casualties or damage, except that there was seven to eight inches of water in the foredeck mess deck, and everything movable, had moved, and practically all of it had broken.
During the lull on the way back we replenished the ready use ammunition lockers and ‘squared off’ the ship generally. The Captain and Gunnery officer were full of praise for the way the men behaved and the ship was full of talk of what, probably, was the most exciting moments of our lives. It was certainly my most exciting moment up till then.

H.M.S.Renown

H.M.S.Renown

Instead of returning to our patrol as ordered by ‘Renown’, we went, due I suppose, to signals from the Admiralty, further North towards Narvik with the Lofoten Islands on our Port and Norway to Starboard. Then came more coded messages from the Admiralty, and in consequence I was amongst those detailed from each ship for ‘Landing Party’. We all got rigged out and set about writing farewell letters in case we did not return. Not knowing how long we may be ashore, we all fairly well packed ourselves in with chocolate and cigarettes. The plan apparently was to bombard the harbour and shore batteries of Narvik and then land and take the place over. This idea was quashed however, when a couple of hours later we called at a pilot station some forty miles south of Narvik. Here we learnt that we were up against a superior force, and to put it in the words of the Pilot ‘ I wouldn’t go in with a force three times as big as yours’. Plans were changed and D2 ( Captain Warburton-Lee ) decided on a dawn attack. Plans were drawn up and method of attack signalled to all ships concerned.

H.M.S.Havock

H.M.S.Havock

That evening when we closed up for a final check over of instruments, the alarm bells rang and away we went after what looked like a destroyer. As we neared, it turned away but we soon overhauled it to find that it was a small fishing boat. That night…. it was now the 9th of April, we continued a patrol of the Fiord and at about midnight with everyone at action stations the five ships, the ‘Hostile’ had joined us during the evening , began to move towards Narvik. My particular Action Station was as a member of the Gun Directors crew with a duty to operate the Cross Level Unit. This unit, using the distant horizon as datum, measured the angle of ship movement at right angles to the line of fire and fed in an appropriate line correction. Since the close proximity of the fiord shoreline on either side made the unit inoperable I was ordered out of the Director to become a Bridge messenger and as such was in a ringside seat as it were to see all the action that was to come. The orders were to sink all ship targets, and needless to say everybody was ‘on their toes’ the whole of the time. It began to snow pretty heavily and we could see neither shore, and this made navigation that much more difficult. The ‘Asdic’ submarine detection gear was used to get echoes from either side of the fiord so that we were able to continue our progress up towards Narvik. It was bitterly cold, and where we were moving around in a vain effort to keep warm, we were forming circles of ice on the deck. Twice, rum and tea were brought around and did we need it. Generally a quiet atmosphere surrounded the ship as was only to be expected in such a tense situation. Once, in particular, when the Gunnery Officer, Lt. Clarke, passed around that we were about to pass a shore battery, everything was particularly quiet, with no one saying a word and only the wash of the ship to stir the apparent ‘peace’.

’Hardy’ at sea. Photo supplied by Ron Cope

’Hardy’ at sea. Photo supplied by Ron Cope

Just about 0400, it was now the morning of the 10th April, in the vicinity of the harbour we made for what we thought was the entrance and only stopped just in time when we realized that it wasn’t. After a little scout around we eventually found it and as the plan had been to fire on the enemy from the entrance we were all very surprised when the ‘Hardy’ began to lead the division into the harbour itself. It seemed to be so cheeky and yet here we were doing it. There was already one ship run ashore on our Starboard side as we went in, but there were still plenty more good ones about for us to sink.
Merchant ships were ‘small fry’ at the moment. We were looking for destroyers and a submarine. All our guns had been unfrozen with hot oil on the way up and were loaded ready for anything. Everything seemed to be still very quiet and peaceful, but that was all changed a few minutes later when we suddenly sighted a destroyer’s bows showing from behind a whaling factory ship. Torpedoes were fired and I guess at least a couple of them found their mark for there was a terrific explosion together with a vivid semi circular white flash of stars twinkling around the edge. If one could forget what that explosion contained it could be described as extremely beautiful, but when one thinks of sleeping men being killed outright, then it is different, perhaps that’s not the case with a German even if they are the enemy. Simultaneously with the explosion we gathered speed and opened fire with the guns. Turning to go out of the harbour, two more destroyer’s were sighted to Starboard and engaged, but being probably still asleep, they didn’t at this moment return our fire.

Captain Warburton-Lee V.C.

Captain Warburton-Lee V.C.

By now the ‘Hardy’ was out of the harbour with the remainder of the division following around in their turn. A second attack was planned and when some ten minutes later we re-entered the harbour they were ready for us. I should say, some of them were, for some were firing High angle shells and others Low angle shells. The Germans didn’t seem to know if they were under surface, or air attack. It was a crazy sight which greeted us this time around, with stems, sterns, funnels and masts sticking up all over the harbour marking the graveyard of the ships sunk in the first attack. But for the grimness of the situation, it was almost an amusing sight. There was more gunfire from what appeared to be shore batteries, and they were firing ammunition fitted with tracer so that you could see it coming towards you. Sometimes it exploded in flight, while at others it went off on contact with the water. Glancing over the ship’s side I noticed that there were explosions erupting from the water at various places around the ship which threw up black clouds of smoke. I thought they might be controlled mines but I don’t know for sure. We came out of the harbour again without casualties but with a well earned scar, a two inch hole in the foremost funnel.

A much more peacefull scene nowadays.

A much more peacefull scene nowadays.

We were all quite happy and very pleased with our work but when the Captain ordered yet another attack we were not quite so keen. It was getting very ‘hot’ in the harbour and they were ready for us this time. But if the Captain went, we went. For the third time we entered the harbour and they were more than ready, for we were greeted well and truly with very heavy gunfire and what seemed to be dozens of ‘tinfish’ (torpedoes). After seeing the effect of our own torpedoes, I know there was no one anxious to see the effect of one of theirs on us. Each time one came for us, full speed ahead was ordered and we turned toward it to present as small a target as possible. On one occasion we had just evaded one, only to run into the path of another and I honestly believe that my heart stopped beating as I held my breath, together with everybody else, as we waited for the explosion to occur. But it never came, despite the fact that it passed right under us and the general belief that German torpedoes were all fitted with magnetic heads. If he does, then we owe our lives to our D.C. gear, a device which neutralises the magnetic field inherent in a ship.
With that thrill over, two of our foes burning and the shore batteries silenced, we turned from the harbour for the last time. The wreckage in the harbour would have to be seen to be believed, so I can make no attempt to describe it adequately, other than to say that it was immense.

Les with two shipmates on Hardy. One was AB Andrew Whearty who was killed in the TS mentioned in Cyril Copes Account

Les with two shipmates on Hardy. One was AB Andrew Whearty who was killed in the TS mentioned in Cyril Copes Account

As we passed the harbour entrance with our guns facing aft and firing a few farewell shots we all felt to a certain extent relieved, but when all of a sudden, ‘Alarm bearing Red 5 degrees’ was ordered we were all taken by surprise. There was no need to look, for we knew in a moment that we had met the enemy once more and to his advantage. He must have been waiting for us, for in an instant shells were crashing into us. I found myself at the bottom of the ladder behind the wheelhouse and was thrown flat on the deck by a shell which blew off the steel door on the Port side. Fragments of this door or shell injured the two signalmen who were there with me. I put them into the Navigator’s cabin and dived into the Captain’s cabin on the Starboard side myself. Another salvo crashed in and something hit my head but I wasn’t hurt. Self preservation, I guess, took me to the Port side, but just as I got there the telegraphs man came out of the wheelhouse shouting that the Cox’n was dead. I, for no reason I can explain, went into the wheelhouse and took over the wheel from Lt. Stanning, the Paymaster, who said he was going back to the bridge. The wheelhouse was a shambles. It was not till I was actually on the job that I realized the danger I was in, but I consoled myself by thinking that ‘if this was my day, then it was my day’. I felt better. I couldn’t make contact with the Bridge and my repeated calls through the voice-pipe of ‘Wheelhouse.. Bridge’ were unanswered. I was left to my own initiative as to what I should do. Looking through the gaping shell holes in the wheelhouse side, I could see for the first time the German ships. There were five of them, two now ahead and three to Starboard.

Les Smale and a Shipmate. Photo supplied by Les Smale B.E.M

Les Smale and a Shipmate. Photo supplied by Les Smale B.E.M

We were close to the shore, so I steered a course that kept us as close as I dared and hoped we wouldn’t go aground. In a little while contact was made with Lt. Stanning on the Bridge and he ordered ‘Hard a Starboard’, we’re going to ram. I felt fit for anything now, but almost immediately it was cancelled by ‘Hard a Port’ we’re going ashore. I put the helm over to Port. Just as we were about to ground the Midshipman came into the wheelhouse shouting ‘your going aground, your going aground and rang the engine telegraphs to full astern. It had no effect as the engines had lost steam due to a hit in the boilers, and it was because of this loss of power that Lt. Stanning had changed from ramming the enemy ships, to taking the ‘Hardy’ ashore. I didn’t feel the ship ground and I think I stood there at the wheel in a dazed condition for two or three minutes until someone came by shouting ‘Abandon Ship’. I walked, they were not firing at us now, out onto the point five, machine gun deck, and helped the two previously mentioned injured signalmen into the seaboat. The whaler was full to overflowing with no one at the falls to lower it. Someone did come along to perform this duty and took a turn for lowering as for a normal boats crew of seven, whereupon the boat went down with a terrific rush and capsized. A Carley Float was in the water, by now full of survivors, and I remember shouts of ‘anyone got a knife. None was forth- coming, it was needed to cut the paddles free. Some men were beginning to reach the beach and I noticed that the swimming distance was not all that far and that one could wade half the journey.

This photo of Hardy aground, was taken by a German sailor. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders.

This photo of Hardy aground, was taken by a German sailor. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders.

Being a fair swimmer I decided I could stay and help where I could, so I took off my duffle coat and oilskins and went to the bridge to give a hand as necessary. The Bridge was in a terrible state with the following casualties. The Captain seriously wounded in the head, arm, and unconscious. The Signal Officer and Gunnery officer dead, the Navigator suffering from concussion, and the Paymaster with a foot injury. I, with the Middy released the Telegraphist from his remote control post, the door of which was jammed shut. We then assisted the Doctor to bandage the Captain and then put him into a Neil Robinson stretcher ( a sort of wrap around affair to prevent the patient falling out) and lowered him to the Foc’sle deck. We got the Navigator clear of the Bridge and destroyed what books we thought might be of use to the enemy before finally leaving the Bridge ourselves. Meanwhile, No 4 gun had been getting up more ammunition and was again firing at the enemy. As I reached the Foc’sle deck and had just taken up my coat to retrieve my valuables from the pockets, the Germans opened fire on us again and registered a direct hit on No. 2 gun which was already out of action. I dropped flat and felt splinters of metal hitting my tin hat, which undoubtedly saved me from injury.

Bill Sanders Brother in law looking down at Hardy 1955. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders

Bill Sanders Brother in law looking down at Hardy 1955. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders

The Doctor was injured in this, and the Chief Stoker mortally wounded. Having retrieved my valuables we put the Captain in his stretcher over the side and into the water. Our only access to the water at this point was via the whaler’s falls which still hung vertically from the davit head. Shinning down, I paused on the lower block to take of my fur lined flying boots before entering the water. I didn’t get them off as the First Lieut. Came down the fall on top of me and I found myself in the water. One of the signalmen who had been injured behind the wheelhouse was still in the water and asked me to help him. I saw him ashore alright and then began to realize the cold was colder than I had ever experienced before. By now No.4 gun had finished firing but the Germans were still firing at us and bits and pieces came flying over making us continually have to duck under the water in order to dodge the danger. The First Lieutenant was now calling for help with the Chief Stoker, so I went to give him a hand ashore. I then went back to assist the Gunner (Mr. McCracken) to bring the Captain to the beach, where almost immediately he died. I daresay he would have been happier had he known anything about it, if we had left him on board.

School at Ballengen where the sailors were housed. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders

School at Ballengen where the sailors were housed. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders

My first wish now was to get the circulation going again, so I stamped my way up through the snow to the nearest house, as had so many others of our crew. Looking back, as I left the beach, I saw a ship upturned showing keel ,rudder and propellers and felt that it must be one of the German destroyers that we had sunk. Unfortunately it turned out to be the ‘Hunter’ though I didn’t know it at the time. Our own ship was on fire forward, and rounds of ammunition of different calibres were exploding all the time. I eventually reached the wooden house and there were two women there, a Mrs. Christianson and her daughter, doing all they could to make the survivors comfortable. The house was full of steam from thawing bodies. Personally I was so cold and so exhausted that I could not take my soaking clothes off, though I knew I had to. A Yeoman of Signals helped me out of them eventually, and I wrapped myself in a black silk dress which I found on the floor. I was glad now that I had been unable to discard my boots at the bottom of the whalers fall when leaving the ship, for unlike most of the others I still had something to wear on my feet. Many made improvised shoes by cutting their rubber lifebelts and putting their feet in the sealed ends. The most comical of all I think, was our Canteen manager who wrapped his legs around with newspaper. Then there was one who cut a hole in a carpet, put his head through it and tied the two draping ends around his body with a piece of string. While I was still getting warm our Torpedo officer called for volunteers to go back to the ship to get a man seen walking on the Quarter deck. They went, four of them, in a Carley float and brought back the Navigator, for it was him, still in a concussed state. These four men were awarded the D.S.M. and well deserved in view of the danger from exploding ammunition from the fire still on board.

Most recent photo of Petra Kristianson’s home. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders.

Most recent photo of Petra Kristianson’s home. Photo supplied by Bill Sanders.

At about 1300 hours we made a move down the road away from Narvik and we were treated with many kindnesses by the Norwegians, in the way of food and clothing and other comforts. Eventually at about 7pm. We reached a village called Ballangen were they opened a big centrally heated school for us and gave us tea, rye bread and some sausages to eat. It didn’t take us long to get off to sleep that night but it took a bit more effort to get us up the next morning. All that day the people were bringing up bedding, clothes and food. They treated us well and the only way we could help them, by way of repayment, was to give a hand at clearing away snow, which we all willingly did.
During the day we visited the wounded in the hospital and they were as glad to see us as we were to see them. We could all now find time enough to spare a moment or two for those, some of whom were very close friends, who were not lucky enough to share our good fortune in surviving the battle of yesterday.

H.M.S.Ivanhoe.

H.M.S.Ivanhoe.

We stayed in Ballanger until the day of the second Battle of Narvik. This was on Saturday April 13th. This battle we were able to see from the attic of the school and it was a grand sight to see the ‘Tribal’ class destroyers driving’ Jerry’ step by step back up the Fiord, with ‘ Warspite’ bringing up the rear and sending salvo after salvo up the fiord which must have had a great de-moralising effect on the German destroyer crews. The Torpedo officer, Lt. Heppel, put out in a local boat to try and contact one of our ships, and on the way back picked up a deserted German motor launch. This he took over to continue his mission. In the meantime the British ships continued to move up the fiord out of our vision, but we could hear the noise of battle as gunfire echoed and re-echoed through the fiords. Lt. Heppel, made contact with the ‘Ivanhoe’ which very shortly came into Ballangan pier and took us off, and at the same time landed an armed guard to look after our wounded in the hospital.

H.M.S.Warspite

H.M.S.Warspite

The next morning we were transferred to different ships and I went on board the ‘Hero’ which was soon on the move down the fiord to the open sea. Orders were then received to join ‘Warspite’ in patrolling an area which we thought to be in the vicinity of the entrance to the fiord. We remained in this area with ‘Warspite’ until Thursday. Nothing by way of excitement happened during this time, but on Thursday we were told to sail for Rosyth which pleased us no end. On the next evening, Friday, we heard on the news that the survivors of the ‘Hardy’ were arriving in London ‘at any minute now’…. but obviously not our little group, here we were still out in the middle of the North Sea somewhere. Just twenty minutes after this announcement the ‘Hero’ turned about and once more made a heading for the Narvik area where we arrived on Sunday 21st April in the afternoon. I can’t express how we felt, but anyone who reads this may well imagine. Hardly had we dropped anchor than along came three German planes and dropped bombs. Fifteen minutes later, back they came to drop more, and shortly after this was followed by yet another attack. No damage was suffered in any of the raids.

First attachment of sailors R.N. and merchant arriving in Greenock on Franconia,Survivors of HMS Hardy after the 2nd Battle of Narvik, plus British Merchant Seamen, rescued by HMS Ivanhoe. Photo supplied by Leo Styles.

First attachment of sailors R.N. and merchant arriving in Greenock on Franconia,Survivors of HMS Hardy after the 2nd Battle of Narvik, plus British Merchant Seamen, rescued by HMS Ivanhoe. Photo supplied by Leo Styles.

That same night we, the ‘Hardy’ survivors were transferred to the troopship ‘Franconia’ who also re-embarked six hundred troops whom, it seemed she had transported to Norway earlier. We sailed again for Home at 0800 hours on Tuesday 23rd of April. We had one escort for a little way and then were left to proceed on our own. All went well until 0200 hours on Friday morning, when we were all awakened by a terrific explosion. I was out and had my lifebelt on in no time, and then there was another explosion. I just stood there in the cabin, and well, I was quite surprised that the ship didn’t heel over, or feel as though she was sinking. We made our way up towards the upper decks, but were stopped by the Master at Arms, who was saying that we had been met by an escort during the night and they were dropping depth charges. The explanation sounded feasible so we made our way back down to our bunks and sleep again. The next morning the Captain passed a message to us all saying that during the night we had been attacked by torpedo’s from a submarine and that they had exploded either in the ships wake or at the end of their run. The next morning, Saturday 27thApril, we arrived safely in Greenock and were soon on our way to Plymouth. The Barrack staff re-kitted, paid and generally processed us so that I was home on leave by 8pm on Sunday 28th of April, much to the relief of my family, who were really without word of our well being since the events of 10th April and the First Battle of Narvik.

Les Smale at his presentation,just on his right is his girlfriend Barbara, who he later married. Photo supplied by Les Smale B.E.M

Les Smale at his presentation,just on his right is his girlfriend Barbara, who he later married. Photo supplied by Les Smale B.E.M

The people of the home village of Stoke Canon (four miles from Exeter) gave me a great welcombe home and presented me with a gold watch engraved as follows. ‘Presented to Leslie J. Smale as an appreciation of services rendered on H.M.S. Hardy at Narvik April 10th. 1940 by friends at Stoke Canon’. In addition to this, they used the balance of the village collection to buy five War Savings Certificates in my name.

Austin McNamara’s Sea Boot Stockings

I am very grateful to Leo Styles for sending me this great story about Austin McNamara and his pair of sea boot stockings. Although it is a light hearted story, to me it just emphasises the quiet bravery of men like Austin. The politicians are always saying how we will never forget those who suffer on our behalf. Unfortunately most of us have. Maybe this, and other stories here, will do a little to redress that.

HMS Hardy

HMS Hardy

Leo writes This is the story that my 12 year old son Patrick gave as part of a school class presentation in his first year of secondary education. The human interest story obviously is related to Austin McNamara of Bolton, and coincidentally my son delivered the presentation on 1 March 2004, the 60th anniversary of Austin’s untimely death during the war in 1944.

Two views of Austin Mcnamara at Horse Guards Parade. Look for the arrow.

Two views of Austin Mcnamara at Horse Guards Parade. Look for the arrow.
Two views of Austin Mcnamara at Horse Guards Parade. Look for the arrow.

Two views of Austin Mcnamara at Horse Guards Parade. Look for the arrow.
Two views of Austin Mcnamara at Horse Guards Parade. Look for the arrow.

I’d like to share with you an artefact that has historical significance to my family. This is a pair of sea boot stockings. They belonged to my great uncle, Austin McNamara, who was my grandmother’s brother. He received them from some Norwegian fishermen who rescued him from his naval ship, the HMS Hardy when it was sunk while in action against German destroyers at Narvik on the coast of Norway, on the 10th April, 1940. They would have been cold and wet from being in the water so the fishermen gave them some of their clothing. When he returned to England he was issued with a new naval uniform but he kept the sea boot stockings, a hat, a scarf and gloves. The survivors were inspected and addressed by Winston Churchill on the 19th April1940. In these photos, Austin is still wearing the fisherman’s clothing.

The legenary stockings. Photo P.Styles.

The legenary stockings. Photo P.Styles.

Almost 4 years later Austin was on the HMS Gould which was torpedoed and sunk by a German submarine in an area between Ireland and the Azores (west of Portugal). Half an hour later, this German submarine was in turn sunk by other British ships with only one German survivor! The Ministry of Defence’s Naval historical Branch’s records show that the cause of death of Able Seaman Austin McNamara was “Missing – Death on War Service Presumed”, the assumption being that he lost his life as a result of the action that day, 1st of March 1944. He was 23 years of age.

H.M.S. Gould. Photo Navy-photos

H.M.S. Gould. Photo Navy-photos

When my grandmother married my grandfather, they came out from England to live in Australia. My grandmother brought Austin’s scarf, gloves, cap and the sea boot stockings with her. My grandfather used to ride a motorbike to work so he used the scarf and gloves until they wore out. My grandmother can’t remember what happened to his cap. A few years ago, she asked if we would like to keep the sea boot stockings. My artefact has some historical value due to its age, more than 64 years old and due to its link with the Second World War. It is obviously of great sentimental value to our family. As far as monetary value goes, they would cost about 50 dollars to make today but this does not take into account any value given for their historical worth.

Plymouths War Memorial.

Plymouths War Memorial.

Austin, together with his shipmates, is remembered with honour at the Plymouth Naval Memorial in England.

Austin McNamara. Rest in peace.

Austin McNamara. Rest in peace.

Harry Rogers, survivor from H.M.S.Hardy

Aged 92, (2010) Harry Rogers is probably the last remaining survivor from the Hardy. I am very gratefull to his son Tony, grandson Alex, and of course Harry himself for sending me the story and photo’s below. HARRY ROGERS Harry was born on 28 November 1917 in Baxter Street, Middlesbrough, an area which you will now know as Middlesbrough Bus Station. As you can imagine times were hard back then and malnourishment was common. Harry, like most men of the day, ended up working at British Steel from the age of 16. He left British Steel to join the Navy in 1936.The harsh, laborious conditions at the time killed most men before their 60th birthday, so my Grandfather professes that joining the Navy saved his life. Harry joined Devonport Barracks in Plymouth for his basic training as a ‘Stoker’ – Engine Room hand, and on completion of training was selected for a destroyer in the 9th Mediterranean Flotilla – HMS Hardy.

Harry Rogers. Photo Rogers family

Harry Rogers. Photo Rogers family

At ‘Action stations’ everyman on the ship had a job, but not necessarily in their core role. In my Grandfather’s case his job was ‘ammunition supply’ to Number 4 turret at the rear of the ship. When Hardy ran aground it was because she’d received battle damage to her engines and steering positions. The helmsman had been killed, and the weight of his dead body slumped over the wheel was forcing the ship to port (the left). At some stage during the battle, my grandfather found himself on the upper deck of Hardy with two other Stokers who were both Chief Petty officers. The Captain at this point had been mortally wounded and Harry, with some others tried to lower the body down from the bridge on to the next deck using a stretcher. They then proceeded to lower the ‘Captain’s Launch’ a small boat on a winch system. To do this the three stokers stood shoulder to should to grasp the long brass handle and wind the boat down. Whilst they were doing this a shell from a German destroyer hit the ship somewhere close to them. Shrapnel from this shell killed the two Chief Stokers outright, tearing into the gullet of one and severing the arm of another. My grandfather felt something ‘bite’ him but continued to try and get the Captain’s body ashore. Within seconds he was in the icy cold water of the fjord. The Captain’s body was dragged ashore but he was considered dead. It was too cold and dangerous to carry him. They agreed to go back for him.

Harry Rodgers aged 58 years old.

Harry Rodgers aged 58 years old.

The shore was not far away and Harry was a strong swimmer. He remembers walking up the beach and noticing blood in the snow. Then he realised that the blood was coming from him. He doesn’t remember much after that. He says that he was picked up by locals, as the next thing he remembers clearly, is waking up in what looked to be a school hall being attended to by a local girl. The only way out of occupied Norway by land, was over the mountains into neutral Sweden, but the locals would not take the wounded as they would never have made it. What they did do was fix them with clothes and feed them with whatever little they had. Three days later the Royal Navy battle cruiser HMS Warspite led nine destroyers up the same fjord and defeated whatever German Naval assets were still in the area. The survivors from the Hardy watched with dismay as the British ships departed, not realising that the men in Norwegian clothing waving at them from the shore, were British sailors. Two of the surviving officers from HMS Hardy used a motor boat from a previously captured British iron ore ship to get a message to one of the departing ships. The admiral dispatched two destroyers to return and collect the survivors. Harry was collected by HMS Ivanhoe on 13th April 1940 and returned safely to England. The survivors were taken to Horse Guards where they met Winston Churchill. Harry never made it as he was still recovering from the ‘bite’.

The survivors on Ivanhoe. Harry is furthest right. Photo Rogers family.

The survivors on Ivanhoe. Harry is furthest right. Photo Rogers family.

That bite turned out to be a piece of shrapnel about the size of a 50p piece which lodged itself very close to his lungs and heart. The icy water of the Norwegian fjords prevented him from losing too much blood. The shrapnel was too close to his heart to operate the doctors said, yet he made an almost full recovery although he still cannot lift his right arm fully to this day. All this wasn’t enough to stop Harry from leaving the service. On the contrary, Harry’s next ship was the King George the V class Battle Cruiser, H.M.S. Prince of Wales. Harry saw action on this ship against the German pocket battleship Bismark, and was still onboard the Prince of Wales when her sister ship H.M.S. HOOD was sunk by the Bismark with the loss of all but 3 lives – a very famous sinking indeed. In December 1942, in the South China Seas, Harry was still onboard H.M.S. Prince of Wales when it was dispatched as part of force ‘Z’ to the South Pacific. She was sunk by Japanese bombers on 10th December that year. That is another amazing story of survival, in which my favourite quote from my grandfather is that, ‘ he never left the ship – the ship left him’ as he was sat on the keel when it went under.

Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos

Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos

Escaping the island of Singapore before it’s capture by the Japanese, he found himself employed in a variety of vessels until he was posted to the USA to become part of the 20 strong crew of one of the hundreds of Landing Craft (Infantry) built for the Allied landings in Europe. Harry saw action at Anzio – landing the Black Watch Regiment with the 8th Army in the historic capture of the Italian Peninsula (Seen the film?)

H.M.S. Ocean. Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos

H.M.S. Ocean. Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos

Harry left the Royal Navy as a Chief Petty Officer after 14 years service. Worked as a foreman at ICI until 1979 when he retired from work.

H.M.S.Daring. Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos.

H.M.S.Daring. Photo courtesy of Navy-Photos.

He now lives in Redcar with his wife Eileen, (Who, as many will agree is the reason he’s lived so long). They have 5 children, the second eldest of which also became a Chief Petty Officer in the Navy choosing submarines over surface vessels. Harry’s eldest Grandson, Alex, who studied at St. Mary’s College in Middlesbrough is the 3rd generation to join the Royal Navy only this time as a commissioned Officer. Lieutenant Kopsahilis, joined the Navy 6 years ago afer completing A-levels and is now a fighter controller onboard one of the Royal Navy’s newest warships Her Majesty’s Ship DARING. She’s the first of a brand new class of six anti-air warfare destroyers being built in Scotstoun, Glasgow.

Harry and his Grandson Alex. Photo Rogers family

Harry and his Grandson Alex. Photo Rogers family

In November 2006 Alex was lucky enough to be drafted to HMS Ocean – A Helicopter Landing Platform travelling to Norway to take part in an annual exercise with Royal and Norwegian marines. Whilst there, he stepped ashore and visited the the Museum at Narvik where he found lots of articles from the ship including a photo of the survivors in which his grandfather was present. He also mentioned the story to the ship’s Chaplain who arranged for a service of Remembrance to be carried out at the cemetery where the sailors of that battle were buried in the nearby village of Ballangen. It was quite moving to be able to lay a wreath on the Grave of his grandfather’s old Captain, Bernard Warburton-Lee with a personal message from Harry.

Alex at the grave of Captain Bernard Warburton-Lee. Photo Royal Navy.

Alex at the grave of Captain Bernard Warburton-Lee. Photo Royal Navy.

Frederick Avery and the Hardy’s safe

I am extremely grateful to John Avery for this story about his Dad. It’s these little forgotten details that round out the whole event. My father Frederick Gordon Avery was a leading stoker on HMS HARDY. Paymaster Stanning ordered my father to sabotage documents in the ship’s safe so they would not fall into enemy hands. My father brought up a bucket of oily bilge water and having topped up the safe with oily rags poured the bucket of water over the contents and threw the key overboard. He took care of AB Francis John [Jack] Good who had lost an eye and three fingers in the action and was a non swimmer. They were given shelter and clothing in front of a big log fire in a barn. Jack was evacuated with the first batch but my father and some shipmates were taken overland away from the village as the local’s feared reprisals if the Germans searched local properties. My father and Jack survived and both men met up and remained firm friends and the family bonds endure to this day.

Frederick Gordon Avery

Frederick Gordon Avery

I research genealogy and on a visit to the National Archives at Kew, I found a file on the recovery of the safe from HMS HARDY. Some locals went on board before she finally sank and with great effort managed to get the safe ashore. One of the locals buried it in his land and at the end of the war, disclosed his secret to a visiting RN warship. In 1947 a submarine was despatched to bring the safe back to Chatham. A long wrangle ensued. The Norwegian was looking for a reward, arguing that he would probably have been shot by the enemy, and the Admiralty arguing that it was British government property that had been illegally removed from the ship. In typical civil service fashion the file got bigger as both sides argued their case.

Paymaster Stanning. Photo Rosemary Barnes

Paymaster Stanning. Photo Rosemary Barnes

Eventually the safe was brought back to Chatham in the submarine and two locksmiths were engaged to gain entry. To my amusement the report read that there was a most obnoxious smell and thick oil stains made all the contents unreadable. My father died in 1974 and it was after that time that I made the discovery at Kew but I am sure that he would have enjoyed the ending to the story of the safe.

Robert Mc Atamney, Survivor from H.M.S.Hardy

I am very grateful to Kate Kennedy for the photo’s and stories of her father Robert Mc Atamney. Robert Samuel Mc Atamney was one of six boys from the same family in Carickfergus, Northern Ireland, who fought in the war. They became known as the fighting Mc Atamney’s as they represented the Army, Navy and Airforce. Although three of them were wounded, all came home safe after the war.

Robert Samuel Mc Atamney.

Robert Samuel Mc Atamney.

Robert, known as ‘Bobby’ was an Able Seaman on H.M.S. Hardy at the time of the Battle of Narvik. He was only twenty years old at the time, and when the Hardy was sinking he managed to rescue ‘Tubby’ Cox. He saw him floating in the water and dragged him to safety. They had a laugh about it afterwards, as Bobby said that Tubby only floated because of his size. Bobby had a lucky escape when he was hit by shrapnel. It took his top lip off but, it could just as easily been his head.

’Bobby’ with friends.

’Bobby’ with friends.

After the ship had blown up and he and the rest of the survivors were led to safety, he was given a ski suit, and that’s what he wore to come home. Kate’s uncle Davy remembers playing in it when he was seven years old.

Bobby served on the Aircraft Carrier H.M.S. Implacable seen here in Vancover and Tricomalee for VJ day

Bobby served on the Aircraft Carrier H.M.S. Implacable seen here in Vancover and Tricomalee for VJ day
Bobby served on the Aircraft Carrier H.M.S. Implacable seen here in Vancover and Tricomalee for VJ day

Bobby served on the Aircraft Carrier H.M.S. Implacable seen here in Vancover and Tricomalee for VJ day

The Mc Atamney’s were a well liked family in Carickfergus, and when news of the Battle of Narvik became known, everybody was worried for Bobby and kept asking his parents for any news. When he finally came home, the town was decorated with flags and bunting and all the town’s people lined the streets to welcome him home. At a ceremony at the Town Hall he was presented with a watch and a ring. When asked how he felt, he said” that he would look back on this day with pride”.

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Robert Mc Atamney with his Mother at the Town Hall.

Bobby Mc Atamney stayed in the Navy until 1960, and rose to the rank of Petty Officer. Although he loved the live, he had got married in 1958 and he found the long separations a bit too much to bear so he left the Navy and went to work at Courtaulds. It was at the factory in 1974 that he suffered a heart attack and died. He was only fifty four years of age. He left a son and daughter, and was sadly missed by many in the town as he was so well liked.

Joseph Cauchi, a survivor from the Hera

I am very grateful to Rita Agius for sending me the following article about her beloved grandfather Joseph Cauchi who survived the sinking of the Hera The following interview is taken from a Maltese newspaper ‘It-Torca’, Sunday 15th November 1964. It is an English translation of the original Maltese text that was written by Lino Spiteri when the late Joseph Cauchi was 70 years old. He died at the age of 84, on the 9th August 1979, in Malta. I have included the photos below because they were his property. They are damaged, but most of them are to be seen on the main Hera story in much better condition from another source.

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Joseph Cauchi aged 70 years.

Whoever sees JosephCauchi today, one may note that he looks much younger than his actual age of seventy. It may also be noted that his eyes are ever-smiling and still full of life. However, one may fail to realize that this energetic man from Qormi (Malta) has a great story to tell. Cauchi told me how he survived drowning and nonetheless went on to sail across the globe. At 18 years of age, just 2 years before the First World War started, Cauchi, like most teenagers was still immature and rash. One day he was in a bar watching some men gambling money for sixpence. One of them lost two pence. He was a trouble maker and many years later ended up as a victim of a suicide in Marsa, Malta. This man started shouting in the bar that he was going to call the police. In fact, he actually went to the police and sued all those present in the bar, including Cauchi. The trial in court was set for Saturday, but Joseph Cauchi never went to court. The Thursday before, he sailed to Tunisia for five shillings to avoid appearing in court. In Tunis he worked in the mines but after 3 months he sailed to Algiers. There he worked in the port but he was not happy, so once more he set sail on a Greek ship and it is here where his great adventure began. After six months on deck Josef disembarked in England where he found a job on another Greek ship. On the return voyage they were involved in a strange incident. As the ship was lightly loaded the wind took control of it and quickly started being blown towards the mainland and when it reached the English shores it was already half sunk. Finally they arrived ashore safe and sound where everyone decided to abandon ship. Cauchi was encouraged to embark on a German sailing ship. At first he hesitated because he did not speak German. Nevertheless he was not discouraged because he spoke some English and a bit of Italian and Greek as well.

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The Hera.

Cauchi embarked from Talbot Port, England, for £3 a month, whereas the Germans earned £2 10s. There were 26 crew on board, most of which were of German nationality. The ship was bound for South America where Cauchi worked for two months, in the ‘tile coal’ business. Whoever worked on this material had to wear protective glasses due to its irritant nature. After having loaded the ship with saltpeter the ship sailed for Europe. Cauchi thought that this substance was intended for the anticipated war. The Hera was bound for Falmouth in England but it was not destined to arrive. It was a Saturday as the ship approached land. It was Cauchi’s turn to sleep from 1 to 7 pm, but due the circumstances he had to sleep at 11pm. “All of a sudden, a German came running and shouting to me to wake up quickly. I got dressed and looked out to see the distant lights of the port. I told them: ‘the port is still far off!’ ” But when Cauchi looked from the other side he realised that the ship was very near to high cliffs and that the sea currents were pushing the ship against the rocks and damaging the hull. The captain started yelling to the sailors to open up the bow sails. But the rope of one of them was entangled and the sail could not be lifted. More help came but on more pulling the rope broke. “While some sailors were lowering the other sails the captain shot flares for help, since the ship was not equipped with a radio facility. While unpacking the life jackets I could not hear whether my mates were nearby, due to the tremendous sound of the waves. It was misty that night and as I headed towards the stern I bumped into the second mate, who told me to run to the stern and wear a life jacket and get into a life boat. I managed to get hold of the last jackets and although having a broken cord, I did my best to fit them around me because I did not know how to swim.

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Members of the crew and passengers. Joseph Cauchi is on the right with a white hat in his hand.

The rope of the lifeboat got entangled with the stern and it dropped headfirst into the water. The rope was cut and the lifeboat quickly filled up with water. Two of the sailors went in it and started emptying water and started to bail out water. When all the sailors managed to make it into the boat, the captain told us to wait for him because he had to retrieve something from the ship. As the captain went inside, the Hera tilted and started to sink towards the stern. We never saw the captain again.”Meanwhile, Cauchi was clinging to the lifeboat with eyes tightly shut, without knowing whether he was floating or below water. He opened his eyes and saw a life jacket floating near him but did not hold into it because he was afraid of drifting outwards in the open sea. Besides, there were many floats hanging from the bows of the vessel, which was still afloat. “I made an effort to cling to something and lift myself from the water. I prayed for the waves to lift me higher, but they were in fact dragging me downwards! I started to make a great effort to climb the bow mast and on succeeding I found out that there was someone else above me. He was the blacksmith and the only Catholic on the “Hera”. I told him to climb higher, but as it was late January he was already cold and could not climb up further.” Cauchi climbed further up and could see that there was also the second mate. As Cauchi climbed higher he joined two others who were clinging to the mast. “The last one on the mast was the chief mate, who told us to call out our names, in order to determine how many of us there were. We found out that there were ten of us.”

The whisle that saved the day.

The whisle that saved the day.

“The second mate had a whistle in his mouth and gave it to the others for them to use it and to call for help. I told them to keep on shouting for help, lest any rescuers might think us lost. We started shouting ‘Come in lifeboat!’ ”They saw three lights approaching, but time passed by and till morning we saw no one coming to our rescue. Finally, at around five am, when it was still dark, a small boat from the National Life Boat Institution approached us. Only five of the original ten remained on the mast. The lower five persons drowned because the Hera continued sinking during the night. Joseph Cauchi “One of the survivors fell into the water when the lifeboat approached us. He was hauled in and another two jumped into the boat directly from the mast. The boat drifted outwards due to the currents, but I clung on to the mast, frozen cold. I saw them drifting away from me and they did not notice me because it was dark. As I looked at their light I started to shout “there’s another one!” They returned to the ship, saw me and gave me an oar to grab onto, but I was unable to because I felt very weak. But then, two of them climbed up, grabbed me by my shoulders and lowered me into the boat.” The survivors were given biscuits and some rum, as well as a cap each. “I lowered it in front of my eyes and said to myself: ‘I will never look at the sea anymore!’ The five survivors, including the Swede were taken to hospital. They were helped inside because they were unable to walk. Once inside they were undressed, dried and given woolen clothes. They were visited by many persons, who gave them money, food and tobacco. Four of the five recovered quickly and went out of hospital. People who knew them offered them drinks until at last they returned drunk to their ward.

In the Hospital. Joseph Cauchi is second from the left (standing).

In the Hospital. Joseph Cauchi is second from the left (standing).

From Falmouth they went to Plymouth where they were picked up by a German ship. In Germany Cauchi lived for a short while in Hamburg, where he was given about £ 30 by the ship’s firm, for the loss of his belongings and job. Afterwards Cauchi was referred to the British Consulate where he was advised to send £ 20 to his mother just in case he got robbed. Cauchi left Hamburg by train to Marseille, from where he sailed to Malta. He had only 2s left. Once in Malta Cauchi opened a shop and eventually got married. However his sense of adventure never diminished. In spite of his previous experience he went to Alexandria, from where he travelled to China, then America where he eventually lived for two and a half years. After this time he returned to Malta for five months, then left for Australia, where he spent 7 months. Then he sailed to Belgium, England and once again to America. He spent ten years in America, but in 1932 he returned to Malta to work at the dockyard and from then on did not journey again. In spite of almost dying when he was 18, Cauchi is still very healthy and one can still read his undying spirit in his eyes.

The lifeboat that saved them.

The lifeboat that saved them.

Joseph Cauchi died on the 9th of August 1979 at the beautiful age of 84. It is not us who make our future but God who is shaping both us and our paths. Joseph, thought his days were over in the English Channel. However, I can still hear his words in my ear when he used to tell his story to people. He used to say, ”my greatest worries when I was drowning were that my mother would think of me as that man who never writes a letter to his mum telling her where he is. Only God would know. But, as the story shows, Joseph lived and God wanted him to live otherwise I wouldn’t be writing the story of my beloved grandpa Joseph Cauchi. When he settled back in Malta he lived with his wife Annunziata and his daughter Felicity. Soon after his arrival in Malta he had another daughter Emmanuela who is my mother who wouldn’t have given me life had my grandfather died on the night between the 31st of January and 1st February 1914.

Joseph Cauchi aged 80 years.

Joseph Cauchi aged 80 years.

Cyril Cope – survivor from H.M.S. Hardy

I am very grateful to Ron Cope for providing me with his Father’s story and all the wonderful pictures of Cyril Cope and the Norwegian people that helped him and the rest of the Hardy Survivors. This story, typed up by Ron Cope from his father’s recollections, remain his property, and should not be reproduced without his permission. I am also grateful to Rosemary Barnes for the photo of her father, Paymaster Lt. Stanning. Cyril Cope’s Story My name is Cyril Cope, and this is the story of my experiences in the battles of Narvik on the 10th and 13th April 1940. One evening in the first week of April 1940, my ship H.M.S. Hardy, in company with Hotspur, Hunter, and Havelock, left the Shetland Isles to escort some ‘E class’ destroyers which had been converted to minelayers. Our Captain informed us that we were on our way to the Norwegian coast, where the mines would be laid, and we would patrol for 24 hours to warn neutral shipping of the newly laid minefield. On arrival at our destination, a stretch of sea between the Norwegian coast and some small islands near the entrance of the Fjord which led to the iron ore port of Narvik, the mines were laid and we started our patrol.

Cyril Cope.Photo Ron Cope

Cyril Cope.Photo Ron Cope

That evening of the 8th April, we received a signal from a destroyer further to the south. She was H.M.S. Gloworm, and she was being attacked by the German heavy cruiser the Admiral Hipper. We set off for the position she had given, but due to rough seas and a very fierce snowstorm we couldn’t travel at full speed, and when we got there, there was no sign of either the Hipper or the Gloworm. We searched for survivors but only found debris, so we turned back towards Vestijord and were fortunate to meet up with the battle cruiser H.M.S. Renown. With her leading our flotilla and the minelayers, we stated to search for enemy ships, especially the Hipper. All hands had been at action stations from the moment we had set off to find the Gloworm, but had now reverted to normal watch keeping.

Cyril Cope on his wedding day.Photo Ron Cope.

Cyril Cope on his wedding day.Photo Ron Cope.

I had the middle watch (midnight to 0400), and my station was the forward torpedo tubes. It was a very cold position, even with all the extra clothing we had put on. At 0345 hours, our thoughts of warm hammocks were rudely disturbed by the sound of shells passing over head and falling into the sea on our portside. The action station alarm bells caused confusion to the waking sailors, who thought it was our usual stand to exercise. Here I must explain that in ships during wartime all hands would go to action stations at dusk and dawn to be ready for a sudden attack by the enemy. Since dawn was 0345 hours in this part of the world, you can see why everyone was confused. By this time, I and my companions on the torpedo tubes were moving out to starboard, where we could see two ships well down on the horizon.

The Gloworm being sunk by the Admiral Hipper, who’s bows are in the foreground.

The Gloworm being sunk by the Admiral Hipper, who’s bows are in the foreground.

We saw the flashes from their guns and almost immediately heard the fifteen inch guns of H.M.S. Renown fire in salvoes at the enemy ships. We saw some hits and wondered how soon it would be before the Admiral in Renown gave our Captain the order to make a torpedo attack. The Germans were heading on a parallel course to us, which was to the south. The sea was very rough and it was still snowing very hard. Although I had received an order on my headphones from the bridge to cut down the guard rails ready for firing the torpedoes, we could not make an attack because of the rough seas which had reduced our speed. The Admiral, realising we could not keep up with him or the enemy ships because of the bad weather, gave our Captain the order to give up the chase and return to the entrance of Vestifjord to watch for any enemy ships approaching the fjord with the intention of going up to Narvik. We complied with the order, but our Captain told the minelayers to return to the UK, leaving just our four ships to start the search.

Punjabi and Eskimo charging up the fjord.

Punjabi and Eskimo charging up the fjord.

On arrival at Vestfjord we were soon joined by H.M.S. Hostile, one of our flotilla. Her arrival coincided with a visit to the pilot station by Lt. Hepple and Paymaster Lt. Stanning (Hardy’s officers) to enquire if any German ships had passed up the fjord. They were told that at least six destroyers and one U- boat had gone up the night before. When they returned with this news, the Captain decided to enter the fjord at noon, get to Narvik as quickly as possible, attack the enemy ships, land a raiding party and capture the town. He thought surprise would win the day, but what he didn’t know was that ten German ships much larger than our own, and three thousand Alpine troops were already in and around Narvik. He was soon to find this out when he sent officers to the pilot station to ask if one of them would navigate them up the fjord. They said ‘no not at any price. Tell your Captain to go away and come back with more and much larger ships. The German destroyers are bigger than yours and have larger guns’.

Alpine troops embark on the Hipper en route to Trondheim.

Alpine troops embark on the Hipper en route to Trondheim.

Whilst this was going on, arrangements were being made for the twenty five men under the command of an officer from each ship to land. We were dressed in blue suits, webbing belt and gaiters, and had a pack on our backs with rations for three days. Bully beef, bread, ships biscuits, and any chocolates or sweets we could scrounge from the galley. We also had a blanket in our packs, and before the dash up the fjord commenced, we were given a mug of neat rum. We mustered at the galley for this and my mess mate Tony Hart drank his, and I drank mine. We were just in time, because the officer of the watch came into the galley and ordered the cook to stop serving rum, because the attack had been called off until midnight because of the information given by the pilots. We then headed off to sea and out of sight of land so that anybody watching would thing we had departed for good.

The Hans Ludeman landing troops in Narvik.

The Hans Ludeman landing troops in Narvik.

At 2300 hours we made our way to the entrance of Vestfjord, entering at near midnight. It was very cold, snowing hard, and we were closed up at action stations with only the engines running. All of the other machinery had been stopped. We could not move about to keep warm, and were only allowed to speak in whispers. The only light visible was a blue one on the after mast to guide the following ships. We in Hardy had no light to follow, but relied solely on our navigating officer, Lt. Commander Smith to guide us and the rest of our four ships up the fjord to Narvik harbour. This was a feat hard enough in daylight, but in darkness it seemed impossible. However, despite some near misses with the cliffs on the port side of the fjord, which we had to keep close to in order to avoid U-boat 51, which was submerged at the entrance to the fjord, but on the starboard side. Apparently, this U-boat had reported seeing us head out to sea earlier in the day and the Captain had made a signal to Kommodore Bonte (senior officer, German destroyers) on the Wilhelm Heidkamp. So Bonte did not expect the attack which was about to take place, because the U-boat was unaware that we had re-entered the fjord. Luck was with us.

Kommodore Bonte.

Kommodore Bonte.

At 0345 hours we arrived at the entrance to Narvik harbour. It was still snowing and dawn was about to break. The German sailors, except for the sentries on watch would be asleep. Our Captain detailed two destroyers to check another fjord close by. The other two stayed outside of the harbour on guard as we went in alone. On our portside was a large British iron ore ship the Blythmoor which had been captured by the enemy the previous night. Two German sailors were on guard on the upper deck, but when guns were pointed at them, they scampered down a hatch without giving any alarm. We were laid almost alongside the ship with only a few feet between us. Our engines were just turning over slowly, and away on our starboard side, not very far away, I could see through the swirling snow and mist several ships, mostly transports or iron ore ships. But there were also five German destroyers, two of which were tied up to an oil tanker, which we later found out was the Jan Wellem. The pipes were still in position to provide the oil and except for the two sentries, the Germans had no idea that we were in the harbour. They soon found out because the order to fire torpedoes came down from the bridge. Because our tubes were already trained on the starboard side, the four torpedoes from them, were the first shots fired in the First Battle of Narvik.

Devastation caused by British destroyers in Narvik harbour.

Devastation caused by British destroyers in Narvik harbour.

The first one hit and sank the Wilhelm Heidkamp. Kommodore Bonte, the senior officer in command of all the German destroyers was asleep in his sea cabin, and he and most of the ships company were killed or wounded. The second and third torpedoes hit the Anton Schmitt in the magazine. When this ship blew up, the explosion severely damaged the destroyer Herman Kunne, and the fourth torpedo hit a large transport. We then trained our tubes fore and aft and went to the assistance of the after tubes crew who were having difficulties training their tubes to starboard. Here I will explain. When a destroyer is in an area where it is likely to meet the enemy, one set of torpedo tubes are trained to port and one set to starboard, because which side the attack may take place is unknown, and getting the tubes to bear as quickly as possible is essential if you want to get the first shot in. On this occasion my tubes were ready on the correct side, the after set were not, and it was very hard to rectify this because of the ice packed around the traversing gear.We had almost reached the position where a large steel bolt would engage in a hole in the iron deck to lock the tubes into position, when the officer on the bridge electrically fired the first torpedo. The tubes swung violently, but luckily for us, in the direction of the locking position. Numbers two and three torpedoes fired, one of them hitting the iron ore jetty, but the delay in getting into position prevented number four from being fired.

HMS Hardy

HMS Hardy

By this time the Captain had ordered full steam ahead and we turned to starboard, towards the entrance of the harbour, and on our way out he signalled the other ships to go in and attack with torpedoes only. This they did, except for Hostile, who for some unknown reason did not fire any. The four ships followed us down the fjord, but not very far, because on my headphones I heard the Captain say “we have done a good job, but we must go back and do some more”. We turned back on our course into the harbour moving very fast, and we began firing all our guns, doing much damage to destroyers and enemy transports, as well as the iron ore ships taken over by the Germans. We did not stop, but made our way out of the harbour with the other ships following us after they had fired their guns. Down the fjord we sped to what we thought would be the open sea and maybe home. It was not to be. Once again I heard the Captain say “we did a lot more damage, but now we must go back, and this time we will be staying. All men selected for the landing party get ready”. Here I must explain what had happened during our previous attacks. In the first one, because we had not fired our guns, the Germans had thought it was an air attack. So when we went in for the second time they were firing anti aircraft guns into the sky. We could see the puffs, like cotton wool as they exploded in the sky. In both attacks we were not fired on, so there was no damage to any of our ships.

H.M.S.Renown

H.M.S.Renown

However on our third approach to the harbour they did fire at us. Guns and torpedoes were fired, but because the firing pistols on their torpedoes were not designed for use in high latitudes, they passed under us without exploding. We could not get into the harbour as there was fire and oil on the water. Ships were on fire and some were sinking. We all fired our shells through the entrance at the enemy, and then we turned to get on our way down the fjord. As we cleared the entrance we could see three enemy destroyers bearing down on us from Herjangsfjord. They were firing at us from our starboard quarter, and we could only bring our after gun to bear in reply as we sped down the fjord with them in pursuit. The ships were Wolfgang Zenker, Erich Giese and the Erich Koellner. They had been unloading their complement of Alpine troops and equipment, and were anchored for the night prior to going into harbour to fill up with oil. A signal had been sent to them about our attack. They had got steam up and weighed anchor just in time to meet us leaving the harbour mouth. Our Captain had ordered a speed of thirty knots, which would have taken us well clear of these ships and out to sea. It was still very misty and snow was falling, but through this heavy mist two large ships were sighted passing across our bow. The Captain and others on the bridge thought they might have been two of our small cruisers coming to assist us, so he sent a signal “are you the Penelope and the Cleopatra”. They did not reply, but started to fire full salvoes at us. Hardy being the leader came in for a lot of heavy punishment.

H.M.S. Hunter

H.M.S. Hunter

We turned to port, and at this point the fjord opened out to what looked like a lake, which gave us a bit of room for manoeuvring. A full salvo hit our bridge killing or severely wounding all the personnel. A shell hit the wheel house, and the chief Coxswain, who was on the wheel was killed, which meant that the ship was momentarily out of control. His body was holding the wheel hard over to port, so we circled. The other ships followed in our wake partly covered by a smoke screen from our funnels. Lt. Stanning who had been wounded in the foot, managed to get down from the bridge to the wheel house and was able to take over the wheel. He then told a young Able Seaman to take over, and at that moment a salvo hit the starboard side below the wheel house.

Lt. Stanning. Photo Rosemary Barnes, his daughter.

Lt. Stanning. Photo Rosemary Barnes, his daughter.

One shell went through the canteen, and then into the TS (transmitting station) where the guns were controlled. On its way it hit my mate Bill Pimlett who was standing by the door leading into the TS , and then chopped off the legs of two of the TS operators, Able Seaman Werty and Leading Seaman Cocain. They were sitting on high stools at the console which contained the instruments. The two operators opposite were not wounded when the shell exploded. They each picked up a wounded mate and carried them on to the iron deck to sit them on their stumps against the forward funnel. There was nothing they could do for Bill Pimlett, because there was not much left of him.

The Georg Thiele, which can still be seen today.

The Georg Thiele, which can still be seen today.

Shells also hit our two forward guns, killing or wounding some of the guns crew. But the one that took the worst of the shelling was ‘C’ gun between the two funnels. It was completely wrecked and all the guns grew were killed. One shell of the salvo hit the main steam pipe in the boiler room. This cut off the steam to the engines and as the ship lost speed Lt. Stanning gave the order to steer towards the shore. This was approved by Lt. Hepple who had by then reached the bridge after checking that the after steering position was operational, when he had feared that the main steering was not functioning. This was when the Coxswain was killed and there was nobody on the wheel. The ship drifted to shore until it grounded.

The Georg Thiele, her stern is in over 200ft of water.

The Georg Thiele, her stern is in over 200ft of water.

The Germans were still firing at us. I had been in my action station on the tubes from midnight throughout the action in the harbour and the fjord, and up to ten minutes before the ship grounded. After all our torpedoes had fired, I had two other jobs to perform at action stations. Firstly I had to stay near the tubes with my headphones on, and if I had received an order from the bridge to make smoke, I would have to run onto the foc’sle or the quarterdeck to ignite a smoke float which emitted thick white sickly tasting smoke. This would then give ourselves and other ships, a screen behind which we or they could hide from the enemy. I was therefore in a good position to watch all the action taking place. The high speed manoeuvring of all the ships, the gun flashes and the torpedoes being fired at us by the enemy. I saw Hunter and Hotspur hit, and I knew we were being hit forward, but nothing would come inboard from the after funnel to the stern.

H.M.S.Hotspur.

H.M.S.Hotspur.

My mate Bill Pimlett, was with me to share the job of making smoke. We were making black smoke from both funnels, so the order that we were expecting did not come. Bill said “ I’m going for’d to make a cup of tea and I’ll bring you one”. I said “ with all that stuff coming inboard for’d you had better be careful – crawl on your belly along the iron deck until you reach the canteen flat”. He did so, but as he stood outside the canteen and TS, he was hit by the shell which went through his back and out of his stomach. I only learnt of this from one of the survivors of the TS, when we eventually reached the house, into which we all crowded after swimming ashore.

H.M.S.Eskimo

H.M.S.Eskimo

When Bill left me, I tried to get a response from the bridge. When I heard nothing (there was nobody alive up there to hear me) I decided to go to my next action station in the engine room. Here I had my bag of tools, and my job was to standby in case there was any electrical damage. I was with the Engineer Commander and the Warrant Engineer for five minutes when the engines packed up. We all looked at each other and the Commander said “this is it, we have had it.” He told me to go to the upper deck and find out what was happening. The ship was gliding towards the shore. I went up the ladder, and as I opened the hatch, the First Lieutenant was bending down to open it. I noticed that he had smoke coming from his pistol and I thought, good God he’s gone off his head and shot somebody. I was about to drop back down the ladder when he said, “Cope, tell the Engineer Commander its everyman for himself, abandon ship”. I went down the ladder fast, gave the message, and led the way back up the ladder with the officers and the engine staff following.

The grave of Capt. Bernard A.W. Warburton-Lee.VC.

The grave of Capt. Bernard A.W. Warburton-Lee.VC.

The Germans were still firing, but only one of our guns was replying. Their crew would just not give in. Our Chief Stoker, Styles, was helping to launch a small boat in which to take the Captain ashore. It was the only serviceable boat, we called it a skimming dish. A shell hit the boat and exploded, wounding the men trying to launch it. The Chief Stoker was severely wounded, but he and the Captain, as well as our other wounded men were towed ashore on the stretchers or life rafts. When I reached the upper deck I went to my abandon ship station which was a raft near the search light platform. Some of the men who should have been on that raft had been killed. I and four others lifted it up, and after cutting it free, we took it to the ships side and dropped it into the water. Unfortunately the man who was supposed to tie the rope that attached the raft to the stanchion had not done so, instead, he had thrown it into the raft, which then floated away into the fjord. By this time my Petty Officer, West, had joined me at the guardrails. He said “it looks like we will have to swim for it Cope“. I climbed over ready to drop into the water. I’d taken off my cap, overcoat, gloves, scarf and even my back pack which I had kept with my shoes ready for the landing. I looked for’d in time to see a whaler being lowered. It looked in good condition, the only boat to be so at this stage, or so we thought.

The Wilhelm Heidkamp.

The Wilhelm Heidkamp.

Unfortunately the men at one end were stokers, and as the boat started to move they let it go and the bows hit the water very hard. The Cox’n of the whaler and a couple of wounded men were in it and I thought they would surely be killed, or at least tossed into the water. However they were ok and as the boat moved away from the ships side I dropped into the water after saying to the PO “there is our ride ashore Mick”. As I swam to the whaler the Cox’n Jack Waters, one of my mess mates, saw me coming and pulled me into the boat. He then went to pull the PO in, but just then it turned over throwing us into the water, so that we ended up underneath the boat. There were seven or eight of us cursing and thrashing about trying to get out from under it. The boat then turned over again just as we had managed to lay across the keel to catch our breath. It did this a few times, and each time we managed to lie on top of the keel. One or two of the men swam ashore, and eventually there was only myself and Lt. Fullwood, our asdic officer left on the keel. He said “ I’m off Cope”, and away he went. I went under for the last time, and when I surfaced and got back onto the keel, I looked towards the shore. The shells from the German ships, which had been falling on the shore line, had stopped. I decided to slide of the boat and swim.

The Hermann Kunne

The Hermann Kunne

As I did, I heard a shout for help coming from the direction of the ship. I looked back to see a mess mate, Tony Hart in the water with a lifebuoy round his body. I knew he was a non swimmer and he was not even trying to paddle with his hands. I realised that he was going to be swept down the fjord and drown or freeze to death if he did not make it to the shore. I swam back to him, about twenty yards, and grabbed hold of a lanyard attached to the lifebuoy, and started to swim with my right arm pulling him to the shore. I could not use my legs, could not even feel them because of the coldness of the water. Slowly but surely we got nearer the shore. My Divisional Officer, Lt. Hepple, passed me twice towing non swimmers. He was a very strong swimmer and the second time he passed me he shouted “keep going Cope, you will soon be able to stand up and walk ashore”. Very soon I could, although my feet were so cold I didn’t feel them touch bottom. When we arrived on the snowy and icy beach I said to Hart, “right Tony, you are as good as I am now, you are on dry land, follow me to the top of that cliff”. I could see a trail of dirt , blood and discarded clothing like a pathway from the beach to the top. I soon realised why the clothing had been thrown away, the blue suits and boots were white, they were freezing. I got my belt and gaiters off with great difficulty. How I managed to undo the buckles or bootlaces with frozen fingers I will never know. Off came my boots, socks, suit, and a couple of jerseys, leaving only my singlet and underpants on.

U-boat 25 waiting at Baroy to see where the destroyers went. U-51 was in the Vestifjord.

U-boat 25 waiting at Baroy to see where the destroyers went. U-51 was in the Vestifjord.

I looked round to see if Tony was ready to follow me but he was still fully dressed. His clothes were freezing on him. He had the lifebuoy over his shoulder, so I stumbled back to him. I said “what are you doing with that lifebuoy, throw it back into the water”. He replied “I’m taking it home, my father will hang it over the bar of his Pub in Saltash as a souvenir”. I shouted “sod your father’s pub, we have to get to the top of that cliff, you won’t do it with that on your back”. I took it off him and told him to start taking his clothing off. He did this and we started to climb through the snow. When we reached the top we found a wire fence about four feet high. Normally, with my long legs I would have climbed over it easily, but I could not lift them. So I lay on the top wire and told Tony to push me over. He did so, and I went head first into the deep snow. I then helped him and a couple of other chaps over the fence. The trail of dirt, blood and more discarded clothing went on to the right for about two hundred yards, it then turned left along what would have been a garden path. At the top of the path was a house with snow up to its windows. We thought we could run to get back circulation into our legs, but we just fell onto our faces, so we just stumbled as best we could along the trail to the house.

The Kristensen's house at the top of the hill. Photo Ron Cope.

The Kristensen’s house at the top of the hill. Photo Ron Cope.

There we found over one hundred survivors already crowded into two small rooms. As I entered, I saw that they had split up into their various groups. Torpedo men in one corner, stokers and seamen, in another. I joined my mess mates and we all snuggled down together to try and thaw out. Everyone like myself, had been forced to take off their clothing, even their underware, as they were solid with ice which was cutting into our bodies. I was then that I asked about my pal Bill Pimlett. I could not see him and thought he might be in another room. I was then told what had happened to him a short while after he had left me to go and make a cup of tea. Another mess mate missing was Alex Hurlier (?) an asdic rating. He had been hit by a shell when getting out of the water, having swum ashore. All the wounded had been put in a separate room, being tended to by the lady of the house, her seventeen year old daughter, and our ships doctor, Surgeon Lt. Waind. Chief Stoker Styles, having died, was put outside the back door on a bamboo stretcher. The bodies of the Captain, Andrew Werty (who had had his legs severed in the TS) and Alex Hurlier had been left on the beach. All those of the ships company who had been killed and were still on board Hardy, would be brought ashore by the Norwegians for later burial. Once we were thawed out and could move about, we went upstairs to look for clothing. Imagine, over a hundred sailors rummaging through boxes, suitcases, cupboards and drawers in search of something to cover our naked bodies. Alas all we could find were ladies and girls clothes, there was not a sign of any men’s clothing. The man of the house was a fisherman who had gone out in his boat for a few days and had taken his spare clothes with him. Everybody, except our canteen manager found something to wear in the end. I found a pair of girl’s knickers and a long ladies gown. The canteen manager was still searching but could find nothing so out of pity I gave him the gown.

The survivors from Hardy.

The survivors from Hardy.

I t had been 0630 hours when we had swum ashore. At 1030 hours we noticed somebody marching up and down the quarterdeck of our ship, which by this time was well ablaze with ammunition still exploding. We recognised him as Lt. Commander Smith the navigating officer. The Torpedo Officer Lt. Hepple and a number of ratings swam out to the ship to bring him ashore and while they were there, brought back the money from the ships safe, which was distributed to all of the survivors. Some got a one pound note and a two shilling piece, whilst others got a ten shilling note and a two shilling piece. A meeting was held by the officers to decide what we should all do. One favoured phoning from a house nearby to the Germans in Narvik, to ask them to come out with lorries to pick us up as prisoners. He was out voted and it was decided that we should leave in two’s and three’s and head down the road to the south. We new the Germans were in Narvik to the north, but we did not know if they were coming up from the south. We did not even know how far we would have to walk before reaching a village or a town. In fact it was fifteen miles to a village called Ballangen. So off we went along the ice covered road at 1300. On one side were the steep cliffs leading to the mountains and Sweden many miles away. On the other side a sheer drop to the fjord, and deep snow in both cases. Consequently there was not much chance of us getting off the road if the Germans approached. We had very little on to keep us warm and we had cut our lifebelts up to serve as shoes, although after a few miles they were torn up by the ice. So we walked most of the way bare footed, tired and very hungry. We had eaten nothing since our supper the evening before.

The irrepressible Tubby Cock at Horse guards Parade. Photo Olwen George.

The irrepressible Tubby Cock at Horse guards Parade. Photo Olwen George.

To keep our spirits up there was a lot of larking about and light hearted banter. The Chief Bosun’s Mate (Tubby) Cock, a man who weighed twenty four stones really made us all laugh. He sat on a small chair which was on runners. It was only meant for a child to use as a sleigh, but some of the lads had pushed him up the slopes and he glided down the other side. He then had to wait for his helpers to catch up with him. He was the only member of the ships company who did not take off his clothes. He let them freeze and then thaw out because he knew with his huge size he would never get anything else to fit. However he did manage to get a ski cap in Ballangen. He had jumped of the ship from the foc’sle, the highest part. The lads had accused him of drowning half the swimmers in the fjord with the waves he had caused. He took it all in good part and was a tower of strength to all of us.

Photo Ron Cope

Photo Ron Cope

I arrived in Ballangen at 2100 that evening. It was still light and I was fortunate to reach the village hospital. However I could not climb up the stairs to go in. However someone, I do not know who, as I was too far gone to notice came out to help me walk inside. I was laid on a bed to have oils rubbed into my legs and arms by two ladies. I found out later that they were voluntary nurses, many of whom came to the hospital to help our wounded. When I was feeling better and able to walk, one of the youngest of these ladies, Mrs. Wanda Haugland, told her son to fetch a pair of rubber boots and an overcoat. They had already provided me with a singlet and underpants donated by the Red Cross. She then told her son to take me to her home where I was able to have a ‘good wash and shave’ whilst waiting for the lady to come home. The boy, who was thirteen years old, spoke enough English for us to understand each other. He and his five year old sister, with all their friends stood around me and were obviously very excited at meeting this sailor who had been ‘shipwrecked’.

Cyril Cope with Mrs. Petra Christiansen, May 1990. Photo Ron.Cope.

Cyril Cope with Mrs. Petra Christiansen, May 1990. Photo Ron.Cope.

When the lady returned she decided that I should have her husband’s suit, white shirt, shoes and tie. Dressed in these clothes nobody would have imagined that I had just walked fifteen miles. The lady then bought her sister in law to meet me. This lady had been in England with her husband for over a year and had just returned. She said “being an English sailor I know what you would like, a nice cup of English tea”. Off she went to make it, and I drank it with small pieces of Ryvita bread, fish and cheese. We then discussed the possibility of me making a run for it in case the Germans came to the village. The boy brought out his school atlas. The only way out of the village was over the mountains to Sweden, or down the road leading south to the port of Bodo. The latter meant going by ferry over three or four fjords. The former was out of the question as I could not ski. However the boy said he could teach me if I was staying long enough. He did try to, but time was against me, so it had to be a dash down the road to the south, if I had to leave. They tried to contact a friend, Lud, to provide transport, but he was not at home. Lud, his brother and their father owned a small taxi firm in the village. They had gone out to Mrs. Christiansen’s home, which was the house were we had originally gone after swimming ashore from the Hardy. They had gone there to bring back our wounded to the hospital. It had meant a few journeys undertaken slowly because of the bad road and their injuries. They had also taken part, with others, in bringing ashore our ship mates, who had been left on board the ship. They were to be buried in Ballangen or Hakvik cemeteries.

The Christiansen family with Cyril Cope, on the right is Mrs. Petra Christiansen and on the left is her youngest daughter Lilli. On the far right is Olav Kristensen , Foreman of the Narvik Veteraners. Photo Ron.Cope.

The Christiansen family with Cyril Cope, on the right is Mrs. Petra Christiansen and on the left is her youngest daughter Lilli. On the far right is Olav Kristensen , Foreman of the Narvik Veteraners. Photo Ron.Cope.

The father in law of one of the Lud brother’s had a small motor boat. He took four of our most severely wounded men,across and down the fjord to land them on the Lofoten Islands at a place called Harstad, where there was a more up to date, and better equipped hospital. On the way back he was stopped by a German patrol ship. He had been out after curfew in a boat in the fjord against regulations, and the Germans in charge said they could shoot him for it. He replied, “If that is all you have to do with your guns, to shoot an old man, then go ahead”. Happily they decided to let him carry on his way. At midnight, I decided to go into the village to find out what my ship mates were doing. I was worried in case they had to make a run for it, leaving me behind. I found them in the village hall drinking coffee and eating whatever little food the villagers could spare from their meagre stocks. No fishing boats had been allowed to return to or leave the village once the Germans had took control of the fjord. There had been no food arriving from Narvik, so there was a shortage at that early stage of the invasion. Their basic food was bread, fish and cheese with coffee and tea. The Mayor of the village had decided that all the survivors, except the officers, would sleep in one large classroom in the school at the top of the slope leading to the cliffs overlooking the fjord. The officers would be in private accommodation. A system warning us if the Germans approached the village, was arranged by the Mayor, whereby boy scouts with trumpets would keep watch. If the warning came then we would take off in the opposite direction to where the Germans were coming from. It could happen by day or night. We did have a few false alarms, and each time it happened, we were at the school. Out we came at the double, down the snow covered slope into the main road and through the village, well away to Bodo before being called back.

Cyril Cope and his son Ron with Petra Christiansen May 1990.Photo Ron.Cope.

Cyril Cope and his son Ron with Petra Christiansen May 1990.Photo Ron.Cope.

Each of us had been told to choose a partner, nobody could go alone. I had chosen a mess mate called Balman from Plymouth, and we two were well to the fore in our dash for freedom. On the Thursday night it snowed very heavily and on Friday morning the road through the village was blocked as far as vehicles were concerned. The trumpet sounded, we ran like hell from the school, and I strayed from the path that had been cleared and went head first into deep snow. Before we could reach the main road we were told that it was a false alarm. It was Germans, but wounded ones, coming to the hospital. A long convoy of them in horse drawn carts, motor cars, prams, wheelbarrows and sledges. Some had legs missing and some had arms missing. All had been severely wounded during our attack on Narvik. The Mayor asked the senior officer if we sailors could help to clear the snow from the main road so that the convoy could get through to the hospital. He agreed, so out came the brooms and shovels, spades and rakes, and soon we cleared the road and the convoy was able to pass. Those Germans never realised that the men lining the route leaning on their brooms and shovels were British sailors, for by this time we were all in the local dress of ski clothing given to us by the villagers, or from the local store.

Mr. And Mrs. Haugland with Cyril Cope handing them a present from the family. Photo Ron.Cope.

Mr. And Mrs. Haugland with Cyril Cope handing them a present from the family. Photo Ron.Cope.

The evening before, I had met Mr. Karl Haugland for the first time. He was in the house when I went in for a cup of coffee. His wife introduced me and he said “while you are here you can visit our home, but if the Germans enter the village, then you must go”. I replied “if the Germans come I will leave the village in the opposite direction, I have no wish to get you into trouble with them”. I then asked them if they could find some old ski clothes for me instead of the clothes I was wearing. As I felt guilty taking such good clothes away with me. They and the sister in law found me a full ski outfit between them. These clothes were much better for travelling, in the kind of weather we were experiencing. On Saturday morning, all the survivors except the officer’s, were in the school. We were due to go down to the village hall to see if there was any coffee available. We had just started to leave in our little groups when we heard a shell passing overhead. We thought the Germans had heard that we were using the school and were attacking us. Our Gunnery Petty Officer said “don’t worry, the Germans have no guns big enough to fire shells as big as those; it must be one of our battleships.

The Fairy Swordfish.

The Fairy Swordfish.

By this time we had reached the top of the cliffs overlooking the fjord. Away to our left we saw a wonderful sight, it was H.M.S.Warspite with nine destroyers coming up the fjord. The Swordfish plane coming from Warspite was approaching us. This was very fortunate, because down below us lying across the mouth of the inlet leading to Ballangen harbour was the German destroyer Erich Koellner, with both sets of torpedo tubes trained to port. These were facing the fjord ready to fire at our ships as they drew level with her. She could not be seen by our ships because of a bend in the shoreline, but the observer and pilot in the Swordfish had spotted her and had flashed a signal to their ship. The Admiral sent two destroyers, Eskimo and Bedouin to attack her, and soon the enemy ship was sinking. But a hundred survivors got ashore in a motor launch. More about that launch later.

H.M.S.Warspite

H.M.S.Warspite

We started to clap and cheer and waved to the occupants of the plane, but if they saw us, they would only have thought we were Norwegians cheering them on. Their plane flew in the direction of Narvik to spot for Warspite’s guns and to send signals back of the positions of the enemy ships. Coming from the direction of Narvik we saw five enemy destroyers. They were ready to attack our ships, but as soon as they saw how many they had to take on, especially the Warspite, they soon turned around and scampered back up the fjord, firing their guns to no avail. Our ships persued them at full speed, all guns firing. Whilst they had passed our view we could hear the noise of guns and explosions as the enemy ships were hit. We could hear the big fifteen inch guns of Warspite as she poured one ton shells either into the enemy ship, or into the town of Narvik. The German ships in the second battle were Hemann Kunne, which was sunk by Eskimo in Herjangsfjord. Wolfgang Zenker, Georg Thiele, Bernd von Arnim, and Hans Ludemann, all sunk or beached in Rombaksfjord. The Erich Giese was sunk outside Narvik harbour, and the Dieter von Roeder was sunk by a torpedo from H.M.S. Foxhound in the harbour where it had been since being severely damaged by H.M.S. Hardy in the first battle. The Georg Thiele, which had done most of the damage to Hardy, is the only German destroyer visible today. Its bows are embedded in the shore where it lies as a reminder of that battle of 13th April 1940.

The Bernard Von Armin sunk in Rombaksfjord.

The Bernard Von Armin sunk in Rombaksfjord.

Our ships suffered some damage and many men were killed and wounded especially in the Eskimo which was hit in the bows by a torpedo from the Georg Thiele. When she passed down the fjord she was being towed stern first. I could see that from the bows to the bridge was missing. The Punjabi and Cossack also had casualties. Both ships had been very heavily hit. During the battle, and out of sight of us, planes from H.M.S. Furious had made attacks on the enemy ships but were not very successful. Two of them were lost. However the Swordfish from Warspite had made the first kill, sinking the U-boat 64. When all the German ships had been sunk our ships came down the fjord passing us at approximately 1600 hours. We could see some had been damaged, but it was with dismay and despondency that we saw our own ships go out of sight with no sign of one of them stopping to pick us up. They did not know at that moment that we were ashore, waiting to be rescued. I mentioned earlier the motor launch used by the survivors from the Erich Keller. When they reached the jetty our torpedo officer Lt. Hepple and Capt. Evans (who had been in command of the iron ore ship North Cornwall in Narvik harbour when it was captured by the Germans) took the survivors as prisoners, then handed them over to the Norwegians to be locked up in a garage.

A Fairy Swordfish dropping a torpedo.

A Fairy Swordfish dropping a torpedo.

It was not till our ships were returning down the fjord that these two officers decided to go out in the launch and contact one of our ships. They just managed to catch up with the last destroyer and were able to tell the Captain about the survivors from Hardy and that a number of merchant sailors in Ballangen needed to be rescued. This was signalled to Admiral Whitworth in Warspite, who sent two destroyers Ivanhoe and Kimberly back up the fjord to pick us up at midnight. Most of us came home to Scapa Flow in Ivanhoe, and from there we travelled by train to London to be met and welcomed by Winston Churchill on Horse Guards Parade. We then returned to our home port of Plymouth, and the barracks at H.M.S. Drake.

The Erich Giese scuttled by her crew after being badly damaged. Photo Ken Macpherson.

The Erich Giese scuttled by her crew after being badly damaged. Photo Ken Macpherson.

Once Hardy had been put out of action, we survivors lost all contact with our other ships and had no idea of what happened to them or the enemy ships. But later we were to learn that Hunter had been severely hit after taking over as leading ship. She was set on fire and disabled. She had also been in collision with Hotspur, the next in line of the flotilla when the steering gear of Hotspur had been put out of action. Hunter was stopped and Hotspur, heading towards her at full speed was unable to take any avoiding action due to her inoperable steering. The bows of Hotspur drove into the hull of Hunter and she sank very quickly into the middle of the fjord. From a ships company of one hundred and fifty, only forty eight survived. These were picked up by the German ships after they had returned from chasing our remaining ships down the fjord. Many men had frozen to death in the icy water. It had been too far from the shore to have any chance of swimming, and like Hardy, all of her boats had been wrecked in the action.

The survivors from Hardy finally rescued. Photo Ron.Cope

The survivors from Hardy finally rescued. Photo Ron.Cope

When Hotspur went out of control with no steering and locked into Hunter, she took a terrible pounding from the enemy ships. In the meantime Havock and Hostile steered clear of their two stricken sister ships and continued firing at the enemy, whist turning back to help Hotspur and Hunter. However Havock had both for’d guns out of action, so until they were repaired, it laid a smoke screen to shield the two ships. Then with guns repaired Havock and Hostile steamed towards the superior enemy force, but they having no stomach to continue the fight, headed off in the direction of Narvik. The three German ships which had come from Herjangsfjord had little fuel left to chase after our ships. The other two, the Georg Thiele and the Bernd von Armin had both been severely damaged, hence their hasty retreat, which was a godsend to our ships as they proceeded down the fjord. Havelock was towing Hotspur, and Hostile was on guard against further attack.

Honour Guard from H.M.S.Nottingham at Ballangen Cemetery. Photo Ron.Cope

Honour Guard from H.M.S.Nottingham at Ballangen Cemetery. Photo Ron.Cope
Honour Guard from H.M.S.Nottingham at Ballangen Cemetery. Photo Ron.Cope

Honour Guard from H.M.S.Nottingham at Ballangen Cemetery. Photo Ron.Cope

They met a large German ammunition ship on its way to Narvik. The Captain must have been unaware of the battle which had just taken place. Perhaps he had been keeping radio silence. However, there it was, a good prize for our ships. It was ordered to stop, the crew abandoned ship, and were picked up by Havelock. Then an armed boarding party was sent on board to examine her. She was named Rauenfels, a supply ship full of the stores and ammunition required by the German army at Narvik. Two rounds of high explosive were put into her by Havelock and there was a huge explosion which sent bits of the ship miles into the air. Fortunately, Havelock, although nearby, escaped any damage. Our ships then proceeded to the mouth of the fjord were they met up with other British ships. They gave their report of the battle to the Senior Officer, and then went to Skjelfjord to undergo repairs. So ended the battles of Narvik.

Cyril Cope at the graves of the men of Hardy and Hunter at Ballangen Cemetery, May. Photo Ron.Cope.

Cyril Cope at the graves of the men of Hardy and Hunter at Ballangen Cemetery, May. Photo Ron.Cope.
Cyril Cope at the graves of the men of Hardy and Hunter at Ballangen Cemetery, May. Photo Ron.Cope.

Cyril Cope at the graves of the men of Hardy and Hunter at Ballangen Cemetery, May. Photo Ron.Cope.

Foot note. The ten German destroyers sunk, were the most recently built at the time, and by losing them, the German Navy lost a quarter of its destroyer fleet. If those ten ships had not been disabled, they would have returned to Germany and could have been let loose in the English Channel at the time of Dunkirk. If they had been, there might not have been a successful evacuation of all those men from the beaches of France. The loss of the destroyers also prevented large units of the German Navy from putting to sea in groups, because there were not enough escorts for them. All this was recognised on the 50th anniversary of the battles of Narvik (28 may 1990) when the then Defence Secretary Tom King, at a memorial service and wreath laying ceremony in Narvik Cemetery at the graves of Hunter and Hardy, gave a speech in which he acknowledged the fact that there might not have been an evacuation of Dunkirk if those ten destroyers had not been sunk on 10th and 13th of April 1940.

Tom King and Cyril Cope. Photo Ron.Cope

Tom King and Cyril Cope. Photo Ron.Cope

The Kitchener Memorial, Orkney

High above the stormy sea on Marwick Head, five miles east of Dounby in Orkney, stands a lonely crenallated tower built by public subscription to honour the memory of Lord Kitchener who was lost in June 1916, when the cruiser H.M.S. Hampshire sank nearby. Off the 667 officers and men on board, only 12 survived.

Marwick Head and the Memorial. Photo by John Findlay

Marwick Head and the Memorial. Photo by John Findlay

The official version of events stated that the Hampshire was taking Lord Kitchener to Russia to persuade the Tzar to keep his country in the war, when it struck a mine laid by the German submarine U75. Because Kitchener’s body was never found, rumours about his death and his mission to Russia abounded, reaching the same fever pitch as the ‘Who shot J.F.K.’ conspiracy. For instance, why were troops sent to stop locals rescuing the few survivors that were washed up on the shore? Had Kitchener been on board at all? And where was the gold bullion, supposedly being taken to Russia to bribe the Tzar if all else failed? Had the I.R.A. assassinated him? Kitchener had incurred their wrath by giving his approval to the bloody suppression of the Easter uprising of 1916, and the protracted series of executions that lasted through out May of that year.

The Kitchener Memorial. Photo by John Findlay.

The Kitchener Memorial. Photo by John Findlay.

However the most persistent rumour was that a Fritz Joubert Duquesne, a Boer who hated the English for they had done to his Country, had disguised himself as the Russian Duke Boris Zakrevsky, and joined Kitchener in Scotland. He was suppossed to have signalled the German submarine, and got off H.M.S. Hampshire by using a life raft before it sank. He was apparently awarded the Iron Cross for his efforts. Interestingly the same Dunquesne ran a huge spy ring in the United States of America in the Second World War until he was caught by the F.B.I. in what became the biggest round up of spies in U.S. history. What is fact and what is fiction I will leave you to decide, and point you to this great site www.hmshampshire.co.uk that has lots more info and photos.

Fritz Joubert Duquesne

Fritz Joubert Duquesne

So who was Lord Kitchener, and why all the fuss? It is difficult to point to anyone in public life today and say that they are a National Hero, but that’s exactly what Kitchener was. Born in 1850 in Ireland, he came to prominence as an Aide de Camp in the failed mission to rescue General Gordon in the Sudan. He then achieved national recognition in his second tour in the Sudan (1886-1899) by defeating the army’s of Abdullah al-Taashi, the successor to the Mahdi, at the battle of Omdurman. The Mahdi had defeated and killed General Gordon, one of the great heroic figures of Victorian England, so after the battle, to avenge Gordon, Kitchener had the Mahdi’s remains exhumed, burned, and scattered in the river. For his efforts Queen Victoria appointed him Knight Commander of the Bath and made him Baron Kitchener of Khartoum.

Kitchener of Khartoum

Kitchener of Khartoum

In December of 1899 Kitchener, now a Major General, was in South Africa for the start of the Second Boer War. In a brutal and savage conflict, Kitchener humbled the Boers by laying waste to their farms and driving their women and children into specific areas where they could be controlled. These areas became known as Concentration Camps. Conditions were dreadful, and in the end twenty six thousand women and children died of starvation. Kitchener had won, and they made him up to a full General, but his legacy of Concentration Camps, would later come back and haunt the world.

That Recruiting Poster.

That Recruiting Poster.

At the outbreak of the First World War, it was Field Marshall Lord Kitcheners face, on probably the most iconic poster in the world, saying Your Country Needs You, that incited thousands of eager young men to join up and fight the Germans. By now Kitchener was Secretary of State for War. Only with him at the helm, so the Country thought, could the Great War be won. So what about H.M.S.Hampshire and the secret mission to Russia?

Field Marshall,Lord Kitchener.

Field Marshall,Lord Kitchener.

The armoured cruiser H.M.S.Hampshire was launched on the 24 September 1903 and was built by the firm of Armstrongs at Elswick. When she was completed in 1905 she joined the Channel Fleet and served in the Mediterranean and the China Station, returning to Scapa Flow, where on the 30 may 1916 she sailed as part of the Grand Fleet to fight at the Battle of Jutland. She returned safely on the 3 June to Scapa Flow, but was immediately ordered to embark Lord Kitchener and his staff, and proceed with all haste to the port of Archangel in North Russia. Here Lord Kitchener was to have urgent talks with the Tzar.

Prop Photo by John Findlay.

Prop Photo by John Findlay.
This 43 ton bronze prop was illegally salvaged in 1983, but later returned to Lynes after international protests,as H.M.S.Hampshire is a War Grave

The weather was appalling with gale force winds and mountainous seas, but the mission was deemed so important to Britain’s war effort that the Hamshire, under the command of Captain Savill, had to sail immediately. It was a bad decision and the ship did not get far. An hour after setting sail, Captain Savill decided to call it a day and return to the safety of Scapa Flow. However at twenty to eight in the evening, the Hampshire was racked by a huge explosion that ripped out the middle of the ship. She was about one and a half miles from the shore between the Brough of Birsay and Marwick Head, when she rolled over and quickly sank, taking most of her crew of 667 to the bottom.

H.M.S.Hampshire.

H.M.S.Hampshire.

At the time it was thought that she had run into a string of twenty two mines laid by the German submarine U 75 commanded by Kapitanleutnant Curt Beitzen, who had been dispatched to watch the Grand Fleet as they left Scapa for the Battle of Jutland.

Curt Beitzen

Curt Beitzen

As the news reached Scapa Flow rescue ships were dispatched, but by the time they reached the area the Hampshire was gone, and only fourteen men in a Carly float reached the shore, two of them dying before they could be rescued. Over six hundred men were loss that terrible day. Many more would have been saved, but the life boats were smashed to pieces by the horrendous waves as they were lowered into the sea.

The last photograph.

The last photograph.

So what of Kitchener? Well many of the men who survived stated that Lord Kitchener was not killed by the explosion and must have made it to the upper deck, as they told to ‘make way for Lord Kitchener’. None of them saw him after that, and his body was never recovered.

A great shot of the Tower. Photo by John Findlay.

A great shot of the Tower. Photo by John Findlay.

The money for the Kitchener Memorial was raised by the people of Orkney, and was dedicated in 1926. The inscription on the plaque says it all. This tower was raised by the people of Orkney in memory of Field Marshall Earl Kitchener of Khartoum on that corner of his country which he had served so faithfully nearest to the place where he died on duty. He and his staff perished along with the officers and nearly all the men of HMS Hampshire on 5th June, 1916. I am grateful to Brian Sandom for the following information and photos.

Crew

Crew

Some crew of the Hampshire, Gibert James Sandom is the very tall man in white wearing a Royal Marines hat.

My Uncle Gilbert Sandom, a Royal Marine, was lost on Hampshire, and presumably lies with his ship. I have served 23 years with the Royal Navy. I plan to lay a wreath over the wreck on 5th June 2011, the 95th anniversary of the loss, and my 79th birthday As was expected the difficult task of actually getting to the wreck was not at this time possible, but on the 5th June we went to Marwick Head and crosses were laid at the Memorial to Lord Kitchener there. On Monday 6th my wreath was laid on the “Hampshire” memorial in the RN cemetery in Lyness.

Brian Sandom

Brian Sandom
Lyness Cemetery.

Lyness Cemetery.
Brian with David Huges, Chairman of R.N.A. Orkney, laying a wreath on the Royal Oak.

Brian with David Huges, Chairman of R.N.A. Orkney, laying a wreath on the Royal Oak.
Brian with David Huges, Chairman of R.N.A. Orkney, laying a wreath on the Royal Oak.

Brian with David Huges, Chairman of R.N.A. Orkney, laying a wreath on the Royal Oak.

I am grateful to Bill Holden for the following information and photos.

Stoker William Wood from Poolstock, Wiggan who died in the Hampshire tragedy.

Stoker William Wood from Poolstock, Wiggan who died in the Hampshire tragedy.
Stoker William Wood Medals.

Stoker William Wood Medals.
Stoker Walter Farnden, another casualy from the Hampshire.

Stoker Walter Farnden, another casualy from the Hampshire.

I am very grateful to Dave Cambell for providing the information and photos below.

Other relics.

Other relics.

My Dad had the nail and a recessed ,Brass Drawer Pull,that he and his brother obtained by climbing down some cliffs nearby. They rescued them from the jagged drawer front, and the nail from a piece of wood off the ship.He saw the explosion and said there were only 13 or so survivors.He and my Uncle had been in France or Belgium a few weeks before and I believe were on leave.They served with the 7th Seaforth Highlanders .He fought at the Somme,Ares,Mons Ypres and Zonnybeck among other places.He took two machine gun bullets in the stomach and somehow managed to survive.

Nail.

Nail.
The Reward for Earl Kitcheners Dispatch Cases is the original and just possibly the only one in existence. I can attest the nail is from HMS Hampshire,and the Reward notice from WmShearers Store in Stromness.

Reward.

Reward.

The Italian Chapel

A wonderfull panorama. Photo Peter Rowlands.

A wonderfull panorama. Photo Peter Rowlands.

In the latter part of the Second World War hundreds of Italian prisoners were housed at Camp 60 on Lambholm, in Orkney. Most of these prisoners had been captured in the North African campaign and sent to Orkney to work on the Churchill Barriers, a series of huge concrete causeways which sealed the eastern approaches to Scapa Flow. Camp 60 consisted of thirteen basic Nissen huts which were pretty awful. However the Italians planted flowers, built concrete paths and soon the whole area looked a lot more like home. However there was one thing lacking for the Italian prisoners, and that was a chapel.

The Italian Chapel.Photo Peter Rowlands.

The Italian Chapel.Photo Peter Rowlands.

A fortunate combination of a new commandant, an enthusiastic priest, and a very talented artist prisoner called Domenico Chiocchetti soon got things moving, and in late 1943 two Nissen huts were made available to the prisoners to turn into a chapel. The result was both incredible, and inspirational.

The inside of the Chapel showing the altar painting.Photo Peter Rowlands.

The inside of the Chapel showing the altar painting.Photo Peter Rowlands.

I first saw this chapel in 1986 and was immediately captivated by it. The inside of the huts have been plaster boarded and painted to resemble the inside of a church with a complete wrought iron sanctuary screen made out of pieces of scrap. The alter piece was Chiocchetti’s masterpiece. It was a painting of the Madonna and Child based on a famous Italian picture painted by Nicolo Barabina (1832-1891), a copy of which, Chiocchetti had carried around with him during the war.

The men who built the Chapel. Chiocchetti is on the far right. Photo courtesy of the Chapel Preservation Society.

The men who built the Chapel. Chiocchetti is on the far right. Photo courtesy of the Chapel Preservation Society.

After diving on the German wrecks and wandering around Orkney looking at the remains of war, you soon realize (if you haven’t already) that war is such a tragic waste of human lives. This chapel brings it all into perspective. It’s a triumph of the human spirit and a huge affirmation hope. How those prisoners must have believed and prayed for a peaceful future.

Yellow Submarine at Puerto de Mogan

This is a bit of a fraud if you are a committed wreck diver because you wont get wet. But when I saw this sub in the pretty little Port I just had to have a go.

The Yellow Sub and safety boat.

The Yellow Sub and safety boat.
This is the spare one getting overhauled.

This is the spare one getting overhauled.

The big surprise was the shipwreck. It appeared to be a medium sized fishing boat. no one on the crew knew its name at the time, but looking on the net, I came across this great site that runs diving tours (wet ones) on it.

www.canary-diving.com/site4.shtm

A surprisingly light and spacious interior.

A surprisingly light and spacious interior.

The wreck is called the Cemona 11, a medium sized trawler, and it was deliberately sunk in March 2002 by the yellow submarine company to enhance their attraction. It was lying on its port side, still reasonably intact, and home to a large variety of marine life including large shoals of baby sardines which hide from the tuna and jacks that seem to constantly patrol the wreck.

The Cemona 11.Courtesy Canary Diving.

The Cemona 11.Courtesy Canary Diving.
A really useful gadget.

A really useful gadget.

Fredrick Henry Ward-Survivor from H.M.S. Hunter

In January 2008 the HMS Hunter was found lying at the bottom of the Narvik fjord in over 1000 feet of icy water by the Norwegian mine hunter Hnoms Tyr. 68 years after she was sunk, this is one survivor’s story of friendship, sorrow, hardship and life aboard a British destroyer during WW2, which was part of a flotilla honoured with the first Victoria Cross of the Second World War. I am very gratefull to Robin Ward for sending me this account of his father’s exploits in the First Battle of Narvik. Having dived on many of the ships that he mentions, his first hand account gives more meaning to those dives, and connects me (in a very small way) to those great events so many years ago. Without people like ‘Fred’ Ward and the rest of the crew of H.M.S.Hunter, the world would be a much poorer place.

The scene in the harbour after the First Flotilla (including Hunter) struck.

The scene in the harbour after the First Flotilla (including Hunter) struck.

At approx 10:00hrs on 9th April 1940 the HMS Hunter set sail from Scapa Flow in the Orkney’s along with its flotilla leader the HMS Hardy and three other British destroyers, HMS Hotspur, HMS Havock and HMS Hostile, their mission? To guard minelayers, which were mining the North Sea. While near the Skagerrak strait, a stretch of water, which runs between Norway and Denmark, the British flotilla witnessed the battle between the British battlecruiser the HMS Renown and the German Battlecruisers, Schamhorst and Gneisenau, as well as sinking a German U-Boat on their way. This was Fred’s first taste of war! Even though it was bitterly cold, the men were in good spirits; most of them firm friends by this time having trained together and only having each other as company. It was snowing and the sea was huge, at one point the Hunter was sailing down an enormous wave while the Hardy was sailing up another one, just in front. Fred could see down the funnel of the Hardy as they were opposite each other in this massive sea. This is one reality of war at sea that is hardly ever told. It’s not always plain sailing. At 04:30hrs on 10th April 1940 the British flotilla entered Ofotfjord in the Norwegian Sea, not knowing where they were going or what was to come, only being told to be ready for battle stations

'Fred' Ward as a young gunner aged 25 years.

‘Fred’ Ward as a young gunner aged 25 years.

They were in formation with the Hardy leading, Hunter following with Havock, Hostile and Hotspur closely behind. The Hardy stopped near a lighthouse and Fred watched as some of her crew sailed to shore in a small boat, he knows now that it was for intelligence on German destroyers and other ships in the area. When the Hardy’s Captain, Bernard Armitage Warburton Lee communicated back to HQ that there were more ships than expected and that the chances of going into battle and making it back out again were very slim, the admiralty told him that he had to make a decision. His decision was to carry on with the mission and gave the order to “Follow on”. Not knowing at the time, but this brave decision was to have a massive impact on Hitler’s Navy.

Newspaper account of the battle.

Newspaper account of the battle.

They proceeded up the fjord until they entered the port of Narvik, it was dark, snowing and visibility was very poor, but Fred could make out ships in the distance. They started weaving between German merchant ships, with German sailors walking around on the decks, but as the visibility was low they paid the British flotilla little notice, most probably thinking they were German ships. Fred watched as the Hardy closed in on some German destroyers, which were docked. They were: Willem Heidkamp (Flagship) Anton Schmitt Hans Ludemann Deiter Von Roeder The Hardy was searching for the Willem Heidkamp, the German flagship in Narvik. Warburton Lee’s objective was to take this ship out first; this would put the Germans on their back foot, damaging their morale. As they got closer the Hardy turned broadside into position and fired two torpedoes at the Willem Heidkamp, they were a direct hit and she went down almost immediately killing her Captain, Commodore Bonte. THEN ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE! The Germans did not know what had hit them, following closely in Hardy’s wake, Hunter and Havock opened up on Anton Schmitt with guns and torpedoes, sinking her, they then turned their attention to Hans Ludemann, badly damaging her, while Hostile scored two direct hits on Deiter Von Roeder.

H.M.S.Hunter's crest

H.M.S.Hunter’s crest

Captain Warburton Lee gave the order to pull out and re-group, believing that there were only six destroyers in the area with 4 being accounted for. Going in for the second time they dodged torpedoes from the stricken Deiter Von Roeder while inflicting more damage on her and the remaining German destroyers as well as taking out merchant ships loaded with iron ore for Germany. Having completed the mission and nearly out of ammo, the British flotilla headed for open water. This is when things took a disastrous turn. In fact there were more German destroyers docked at nearby inlets. As the British destroyers raced by, the German destroyers gave chase. They were: Wolfgang Zenker Erich Giese Erich Koellner Hermann Kunne Up to speed, the British were outrunning the German destroyers and thought they were going to make it, but what they did not realise was that two larger German destroyers were racing head on towards them. They were: Georg Thiele Bernd Von Armin.

Georg Thiele

Georg Thiele

Knowing that they were outnumbered and outgunned, the Hardy turned and took the brunt of it from the German destroyers. Her bridge obliterated and out of control she headed to the far shoreline with her Captain, Warburton Lee mortally wounded. His courageous last words were, “carry on engaging the enemy”. The Hunter was next, hit in the engine room she lost power and due to smoke and poor visibility was then rammed by the Hotspur, disabling her. The Hotspur managed to pull away, she sailed close to the Hunter to try and help shield her, but there was nothing she could do and pulled away leaving the Hunter to take the Germans rage on her own.

H.M.S.Hunter

H.M.S.Hunter

Meanwhile the Hardy was on fire had beached on the far side of the fjord, her crew taking their Captain, Warburton Lee to shore, but sadly he passed away from his injuries, he would later be posthumously awarded the first Victoria Cross of the Second World War for this action. Havock and Hostile had run the gauntlet between the German ships and made it out to the open sea, as did the Hotspur, but the Hunter was a sitting duck with her engine room and propellers damaged! Sat in the middle of the fjord with gunfire and explosions all around, the brave men of the Hunter carried on engaging the enemy with everything they had left, knowing that this was the Hunter’s and most probably their own last moments.

Missing in action.

Missing in action.

Fred was a gunner and the noise from gunfire, explosions and the echo’s off the side of the mountains made it impossible to think, he once said it was like having your head compressed, you can not think, the training just takes over. One of Fred’s mates came up to him and asked if he could borrow his knife as he had lost his, Fred took his knife out of its sheath and handed it to him. A few moments later there was an explosion, Fred looked over and his friend was gone, this is when he knew the Hunter had to go down, the Germans were not going to stop until she was beneath the waves. Out of ammo, Fred was sat on the deck of the Hunter looking into the freezing water. This is when the order was given to abandon ship.

Fredrick Henry Ward aged 88years. 2008

Fredrick Henry Ward aged 88years. 2008

The chances of surviving in this freezing Arctic sea were very slim and Fred could already see bodies floating in front of him, from the smoke and fire their heads blackened and he recalled it as seeing black heads bobbing around everywhere. The Hunter was on her way down, she was listing badly, nearly on her side. Fred was watching her radio mast; it was almost touching the water. Something made him look behind him and the Hunter’s Captain, Linsey de Villiers was walking past. He looked at Fred and nodded as if to say over you go. The Captain then disappeared back inside the ship and was not seen again! Fred took off his boots and jumped in the freezing water! With his senses numbed and with the unfortunate ones floating nearby, Fred treaded water, waiting to either be picked up, or die. He turned to face the Hunter, which was now up on her end, sinking. Every ship has a name or number, the HMS Hunter’s was H35 and Fred was watching this slowly make its way towards the water line. He said that because of the sheer bulk of the Hunter, it looked as if she was sinking slowly, but as the H35 reached the water it disappeared very quickly and within a few seconds she was gone. There was a swell in the water and then nothing; it was as if she was never there.

Some of those who died, were buried in a graveyard nearby.

Some of those who died, were buried in a graveyard nearby.

The saddest part is that there were brave sailors trapped below decks, their exits buckled from the explosions and with no way out, they had to go down with her. When she left Plymouth for War, the Hunter had a compliment of 157; only 45 were pulled alive from the freezing Norwegian waters on 10th April 1940 and of these, some would die from exposure and injuries.

Memoirs

Memoirs

Just when Fred though he would not make it, he was picked up by a German ship. He was pulled from the water and remembers a German sailor walking towards him with a knife; this is when he passed out. When he regained consciousness, he was naked, in a bunk with only a blanked covering him. A German guard offered him some bread, which he took. He was marched on deck and watched as the remains of War smouldered in the fjord. He was freezing, in shock and did not know what lay ahead for him. He was then taken to shore as a prisoner along with the other survivors. The War had just started and Fred found himself in the hands of the enemy, but this would not be the first time he would be captured by the Germans!

H.M.S.Warspite

H.M.S.Warspite

They were marched through the town of Narvik with only their blankets for comfort until they reached a café called Iris, this is where they were given dry clothes and they were guarded day and night, while the Germans carried on with their campaign. On the 13th April 1940, Fred was aroused to the sound of commotion along with gunfire and explosions. The café Iris overlooked Narvik fjord and he could see British Warships engaging the German destroyers, not knowing it, but Fred was witnessing the second battle of Narvik. There was a large British Battleship in the fjord and she was picking off the German destroyers with ease. She was the HMS Warspite, a formidable weapon of the British Navy. The walls of the café shook to the gunfire from the Warspite and it was not long before she and her flotilla of destroyers left, leaving the German destroyers a mangled sinking wreck. The Germans had lost 10 destroyers plus merchant ships during the two battles of Narvik, this would hamper Hitler’s efforts during the rest of the War and even today many still say that the two battles of Narvik gave the British Navy victory in the War. The above is dedicated to my dad, for he helped secure our freedom, but also to the brave sailors that gave the ultimate sacrifice and never returned to their loved ones. Robin Ward

James Renshaw-Survivor from H.M.S. Hunter

In the Navik Overview I describe briefly the attack by the British into the Fjord. Recently (March 2008) I was lucky enough to meet James Renshaw, who was an Able Seaman on H.M.S. Hunter, and survived the attack. Also in the same month the wreck of ‘Hunter’ was discovered in 305 metres by the Norwegian Navy during a training exercise. The wreck will now be designated a War Grave.

James Renshaw

James Renshaw
Images from the Norwegian Navy

Images from the Norwegian Navy
Images from the Norwegian Navy

Images from the Norwegian Navy

Jim was a delight to talk to and this is what he told me of those dark days of the battle of Narvik. He was only twenty two at the time. The attack was led by Hardy with Hunter, Havelock, Hotspur, and Hostile following. Two attacks were successfully carried out, but on the third attack at about 0330 all ships met with heavy gunfire from the German destroyers. At this point Warburton Lee gave the order for all ships to retire under cover of smoke screens. By this time the gunfire had become very severe and our retreat was partially cut off by six German destroyers who had been at anchor in the Fjord

H.M.S. Hunter.

H.M.S. Hunter.

In addition to being badly holed forward, Hotspur’s steering gear and starboard engine were put out of action resulting in Hotspur colliding with Hunter amidships. At this point Hunters Captain, Lt Commander Linsey de Villiers gave orders for everyone to abandon ship, which proceeded in quite an orderly manner considering that we were still under heavy gunfire. After about ten minutes Hotspur managed to free herself and retire, leaving Hunter with a great hole in her side listing to starboard and virtually a total wreck with her engine room rapidly filling with water. The ship was abandoned in about fifteen minutes with the crew flinging themselves into the freezing water. The time was about 0615, and by 0630 the ship had disappeared all together.

H.M.S. Hunter's survivors. Jim is bottom row, second from the right.

H.M.S. Hunter’s survivors. Jim is bottom row, second from the right.

After swimming around for the best part of an hour we were all picked up by three German Destroyers.The water temperature was 12% F below freezing and this alone must have accounted for the large number of causalities. Of the crew of 156 (8 officers and 148 ratings) only forty six survived

Swedish documents.

Swedish documents.

After swimming around for the best part of an hour we were all picked up by three German Destroyers.The water temperature was 12% F below freezing and this alone must have accounted for the large number of causalities. Of the crew of 156 (8 officers and 148 ratings) only forty six survived. All the survivors said that the Germans treated them very well, doing everything they could for their comfort. Besides being given brandy and other spirits to revive them, they were all bathed and given clothes. At 1000 hours all survivors were landed, thirty being put up in the German whaling ship Jan Wellem and fourteen placed in the Iris Café. One officer and three ratings were taken to hospital. We all spent three weeks here as prisoners of war until being sent to Sweden. This was still under German control and we had to stay there for two and a half years.

Jim's medals

Jim’s medals

The Geleitboot F2

Scapa Flow, the largest and most godforsaken of all the harbours ever used by the Royal Navy, is the scene of one of the most extraordinary naval episodes in history – the scuttling of an entire German High Seas battle fleet.

On 21 June 1919, eleven battleships, six battle cruisers, eight light cruisers and fifty destroyers slowly turned over and sank to the bottom of the sea. Although some were subsequently raised and others were partly salvaged, many more remain lying in the clear and rainlashed water that surges between the windswept islands making up the anchorage of Scapa Flow.

Scapa Flow Postcard.

Scapa Flow Postcard.

This is awesome diving, The sheer size of wonderships like the Konig and the Brummer are almost indescribable. And the fact that most are still intact right down to their portholes and guns leaves the wrecker almost speechless with delight.

Other wrecks are merely fantastic. Our boatful of divers voted the wreck of the F2 one of the most popular wrecks to dive. This was mainly because it was all so accessible and because people were not overawed by its scale.

Strangely enough, the F2 was not a victim of the events of 1919 at all. In fact, she was not even built until the start of the Second World War. And she was wrecked more by the carelessness on the part of the British than for any other reason.

The Geleitboot F2.

The Geleitboot F2.

The F2 was built in 1935 by Germania as an escort vessel or Geleitboot of 756 tons. She was 249 feet long, twenty nine feet wide and had a very shallow draught of only just over eight feet. Unlike the Royal Navy, the Germans did not name all their ships, tending instead to christen only the biggest and the best. Lesser vessels like destroyers and escort vessels were designated instead by a letter and a number.

With two geared turbines, she could reach speeds of over twenty eight knots. For her crew of 124 this must have been purgatory. Although excellent sea boats, they were also incredibly wet and uncomfortable. They were not really designed to house a crew for long periods. Any heavy weather and the inside of the F2 would have been a real morale buster, even compared with the lower standards of their day.

Hard Hat Divers at work.

Hard Hat Divers at work.

As well as being fast, the F2 also packed a sizeable punch. It had a 4.1 50 calibre gun mounted fore and aft, four 37mm machine guns and two one pounder guns for defence against aircraft attack. In addition, there wee also two sets of depth charge throwers for submarine attack.

If all that wasn’t enough, she could also be rigged for mine laying. All in all the F2 was a very useful and versatile ship, and it is not surprising that the Germans built scores of them. The F2 survived the war, and when the Germans surrendered, she was given to the British as part of their war reparations. The British took her to Scapa Flow in December 1946 to await further instructions as to her fate.

Inside the Gun Turret.

Inside the Gun Turret.

Quite what happened next is not clear. Suffice to say that she sank on 13 December 1946 in the channel between the islands of Hoy and Fara. She was not considered worthy of salvage. The F2 soon became a total loss. Most of the F2 today lies in just fifty feet of water. With the viz usually in excess of thirty feet, the sight of this wreck is staggering. The ship lies on her side, but the bows are completely intact with an entire 4.1 gun mounting still there. The gun seemed almost to be in working order, You can easily get right inside the gun mounting and look out through the gun slits, just as if you were part of the gun crew. Lying there on your side in the turret produces an optical illusion that makes the boat stand upright. There right in front of you are the bows flaring away, perfect in every detail.

Just back from the gun mounting are the remains of the bridge, which forms a huge overhanging cave as it sets onto the seabed. You can get inside, but it is a bit dark and a tight fit. If you poke your head underneath, you can avoid any potential embarrassment but still get the full flavour or what it would have been like.

Looking down into the tangle at the stern.

Looking down into the tangle at the stern.

Further back is the stern, all smashed up with iron plating everywhere. There’s masses of piping, broken stanchions, electrical cable and all manner of mangled bits and pieces. There should be another gun mounting, but I didn’t see one. This area is really interesting and if you have time, it is well worth a thorough examination, especially out on the sand just away from the wreck. There is plenty of broken pottery here, some with German markings.

Time starts to run out, but it is the bows and the guns that call you back for one last look. It really is a most magnificent sight.

As an encore, if the rest of your gang has not stirred up the sand too much, try this. Fin slowly towards the surface directly above the gun. When you get about ten feet from the surface, hold it and look back down. And remember the view – because there is nowhere else in the world where you can see anything quite like it. Fantastic!

Special Report: Scapa Flow:

  • Overview: Scapa Flow – the German Valhalla
  • Brummer
  • Geleitboot F2
  • Koln
  • Konig

Z2 Georg Thiele

The Georg Thiele was a Leberect Maass Class Destroyer with a displacement of 2200 tons, and a complement of 315 officers and men. She was 374 feet long, 37 feet in the beam, and had a draught of nine and a half feet. Her machinery, performance, and armament was similar to the Dieter Von Roeder Class, except that she had four 3.7cm and six 20mm guns.

The Georg Thiele, Z2, was launched on August 18th 1935 and was completed in February 1937. She had a few teething troubles with her engines, and prior to her becoming part of Group 1 (Narvik) she was having repairs at Bremen for a troublesome water pump. However on April 6th 1940 all was repaired and the George Thiele embarked two hundred mountain troops and sped off to rendezvous with the rest of the Task Force.

Georg Thiele Z2.

Georg Thiele Z2.

After a dreadful journey in gale force winds and high sea’s the George Thiele, in company with the rest of the Destroyer group successfully disembarked her troops at Narvik. On April 10th at the start of the First Battle of Narvik, the Georg Thiele together with the Bernard Von Armin were lying in a side Fjord (Balangenfjord) and came out onto the British flank as they withdrew after successfully sinking and crippling five German Destroyers in Narvik harbour.

The bell from Z2, now in the Museum.

The bell from Z2, now in the Museum.

Amongst others, the George Thiele fired on the British Destroyer Hardy, scoring hit after hit and was mainly instrumental in driving her ashore. With the Bernard Von Armin she then turned her attention to Hunter and Hotspur, sinking Hunter with gunfire and a torpedo after she had damaged Hotspur so severely that she became uncontrollable and collided with the Hunter at thirty knots. The Georg Thiele was then hit hard herself in one of her boiler rooms, had one of her guns destroyed and her fire control system put out of action.

Georg Thiele hard aground.

Georg Thiele hard aground.

By the time of the Second battle of Narvik, on April 13th, the George Thiele was only semi operational. She could manage 27 knots in a short burst, and the rest of her guns had been brought under local control so could all be fired. In addition to this she still had six torpedo’s.In the closing part of the battle, when the four surviving but badly damaged German Destroyers withdrew up Rombakisfjord, she acted as a rearguard so that the crews of the damaged destroyers could be landed before they were scuttled.

Korvttenkapitan Max-Eckart, of the Georg Thiele.

Korvttenkapitan Max-Eckart, of the Georg Thiele.

Unfortunately, she was caught by the British Destroyers Eskimo and Forester, who repeatedly blasted her with gunfire. Fighting to the end the Georg Thiele unleashed one of her torpedo’s and blew Eskimo’s bow off, before running herself hard aground.

The wreck as it is today, bows stuck up in the air.

The wreck as it is today, bows stuck up in the air.

This is the wreck I came to see. The bows stick out of the water and the stern is in 52 meters. Fantastic sight. We went down to the prop shaft where Steve had to tie on the rope This was a slight problem as it was 40 meters down and we were not exactly sure where the wreck was.Anyway as usual, Steve sorted it out, and once there it was great. Just below us was one of the guns pointing astern, the other is at 52 meters, then you come up the cliff of the hull which is lying on its side. On the right of the hull is the deck, with torpedo tubes, search lights and loads of portholes. As you go up towards the bow there are great caverns with loads more portholes with glass. All around were bits of brass and loads of switches.

One of the guns. Photo F. Bang

One of the guns. Photo F. Bang

On the torpedo tubes on the second dive, I saw the fire selector and the rest of the tube bits including the gas bottles. Near there was a small two barrelled gun (probably anti aircraft). Near this was what looked like a breach from another gun lying on the floor. Over to one side was a broken mast with lots of electric insulators lying everywhere. When you get to the bit of the bow that hit the rocks, you can go down a tunnel back to about 40ft. This whole area is covered with plumose anemones, and there are some great anemones like snake locks but much bigger.

A search light. Photo F. Bang

A search light. Photo F. Bang

On the second dive more of the same, but the highlight was to go in another little tunnel at about 60 ft and swim up through the wreck to about 15 ft. The tunnel got tighter and tighter, and on either side were holes through which you could see other compartments with loads of portholes. As it got tighter it got a bit iffy, but you could see out of the top, so all was well. Then we just swam along the keel not really wanting to leave, and gently on up to the surface. Because its right on the shore the dive boat likes to stand off, so it can be a bit of a long surface swim. This is a great wreck dive and was voted the best off all the ones we did.

Two barrels from an anti airgraft gun. Photo F. Bang

Two barrels from an anti airgraft gun. Photo F. Bang

Other World Wrecks

With air travel now so commonplace we can all go to the ends of the earth in search of different shipwrecks to dive on. I haven’t done that a lot, but occasionally on my travels I come across a wreck which doesn’t fit into the rest of the site’s categories, so I have put them here.

 

Bows of the Thislegorm. Photo: Peter Rowlands

Bows of the Thislegorm. Photo: Peter Rowlands

 

 

  • H.M.N.Z. Waikato
  • S.S. Liberty
  • Thislegorm
  • H.M.S. Port Napier
  • Yellow Submarine at Puerto de Mogan

Truk Lagoon: Setting the scene

Truk Lagoon is simply the best place to see shipwrecks anywhere in the world. The wrecks are virtually intact and the Lagoon’s water is gin clear.

Truk Lagoon is a vast body of water fifty miles long by thirty miles wide, and it is stuffed full of wrecked ships and planes.

Truk Lagoon.

Truk Lagoon.
Truk Lagoon.

Truk Lagoon.

Here you can swim through holds full of Zero fighters, or explore a ships bridge complete with ships helm, compass and telegraphs. Superlatives are meaningless. Truk is the Diver’s Mecca.

This book by Klaus Linderman is the definitive book on Truk. I used it whilst I was out there diving, and have found it invaluable as and aid to jogging my memory of those great days.

If you want to get a copy, it is published by Pacific Press Publications. ISBN:981-00-2968-3. It’s out of print, but you can find it secondhand on Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

The Scilly Isles

The Scilly Isles has probably got more ship wrecks per square mile that any other place on earth, and its relative remoteness, 20 miles of the Cornish coast, lends the islands an old world charm that is very beguiling. To my shame living so close, I have only dived there once, and that was back in 1981. So apart from correcting some spelling mistakes I have decided to leave these articles just as they were when I first wrote them for Sub Aqua Scene magazine.More recently I went back to the isles and visited Tresco with its wonderful collection of ships figure heads – Vallhalla.

 

Hugh Town on the largest island, St. Mary's

Hugh Town on the largest island, St. Mary’s

It is interesting to look back on the fascination for all things brass that ruled in those days. Wreck diving was still in its infancy and the emphasis was all about locating and identifying wrecks. It was a very minority activity and no one in the wider world cared very much who took what. Bit like train spotting really. Attitudes have moved on nowadays, and most people now realise how fascinating shipwrecks can be, and how they provide a real link to our past history. It was divers looking for brass that found many of these wrecks, so I like to think we helped a little to bring their stories to a wider public.

  • Scilly but I like it:- Plympton/Hathor,Mando, Delaware
  • One foggy day in May:- Lady Charlotte and Italia
  • H.M.S.Blazer
  • Poleire
  • Minnihaha
  • Zelda
  • Vallhalla

Scapa Flow

Scapa Flow is the resting place of the entire World War One German High Seas fleet, which scuttled itself in the last moments of the war. This Special Report provides an overview of how the scuttling came about, and individual dive reports on some of the ships to be found at Scapa Flow.

I have not mentioned the Royal Oak as you cannot dive on her, but here is a small movie showing why she was sunk Extract from THE SILENT MENACE DVD

  • Overview: Scapa Flow – the German Valhalla
  • Brummer
  • Geleitboot F2
  • Koln
  • Konig
  • Dressden
  • Kronprinz Willhelm
  • V83
  • S54
  • U.B.116
  • Karlsruhe
  • Thames
  • The Kitchener Memorial, Orkney
  • The Italian Chapel

For further reading, try these. ‘Click’the book to find out more.

Narvik

In April 1940, indecision on the part of the British Government, and the surprise invasion of Norway by the Germans, contrived to place the two opposing fleets in the same bit of sea at the same time, albeit unknown to each other. Thus was triggered the two sea battles of Narvik.(see Overview)

Map showing many of the wrecks in the Fjords.

Map showing many of the wrecks in the Fjords.

In the engagements the British won two posthumous V.C.s as they destroyed ten German destroyers and a submarine for the loss of two of their own destroyers and two aircraft. The Norwegian Navy lost two ageing ships and two patrol boats. Over 700 sailors were killed on all sides, and it later came to light, that in the initial torpedo attacks, a German troop ship, carrying 3000 men of the Alpine Division, was sunk drowning all on board.

Map showing wrecks in Narvik harbour.

Map showing wrecks in Narvik harbour.

At the time of the battle over 25 merchant ships were anchored around Narvik harbour, and many were sunk. These ships, together with all the destroyers, have turned the area around Narvik into a spectacular graveyard of shipwrecks, to which access has only been recently granted.

The diving vessell Jane R.

The diving vessell Jane R.

All these wrecks were dived on in September 2004, from the Diving vessel Jane R, skippered by the inimitable Gordon Wadsworth, who is still finding new wrecks.

Gordon Wadsworth

Gordon Wadsworth

While I was in Narvik I met a great underwater photographer called Frank Bang who has extensively filmed most of the wrecks in the area, and is still adding more. He was very kind to allow me to reproduce several of his photos in the articles below. visit his site Frank Bang’s homepage for more great photos.

  • Narvik Overview
  • Martha Henrik Fisser
  • Strassa
  • Blackwatch
  • Karmoy
  • Romanby
  • Z-2 George Thiele
  • Z-13 Erich Koellner
  • Herman Kunne
  • Hardy
  • Dornier Seaplane
  • Fredrick Henry Ward survivor from H.M.S. Hunter
  • James Renshaw survivor from H.M.S. Hunter
  • Cyril Cope survivor from H.M.S.Hardy
  • Robert Mc Atamney survivor from H.M.S.Hardy
  • Frederick Avery and the Hardy’s safe
  • Austin McNamara’s Sea Boot Stockings
  • Les Smale B.E.M. survivor from H.M.S.Hardy
  • Anthony Ronayne B.E.M. survivor from H.M.S.Hardy
  • Ralph Brigginshaw Hardy Survivor
  • Harry Rogers, survivor from H.M.S.Hardy

On the 75th Anniversary of the Battle of Narvik, author Ron Cope shines a spotlight onto the brave young sailors behind this dramatic military campaign, including his father.
name of ship/subject of story
Attack at Dawn: Reliving the First Battle of Narvik in World War Two by Ron Cope (published by Clink Street Publishing RRP £11.99 paperback, RRP £7.99 ebook) is available from 10 April 2015 online from retailers including amazon.co.uk and to order from all good bookstores.
RRP £11.99… ISBN:978-1-909477-97-1 Ebook : 978-1-909477-98-8.

Three years after his book on the Battle of Narvik, Ron Cope now reveals for the first time the untold story of HMS Hunter and her crew.

Doomed Destroyer by Ron Cope
Doomed Destroyer by Ron Cope (published by Clink Street Publishing RRP £12.99 paperback, RRP £4.99 ebook) is available from April 2018 online from retailers including amazon.co.uk and to order from all good bookstores.

Falmouth

Situated on the the south coast of Cornwall, Falmouth Bay is one of the largest natural harbours in the world and contains a wealth of facinating shipwrecks.

Less than two hours from Plymouth by boat or car, the wrecks around Falmouth are easy to reach. However with some of the most interesting wrecks guarded by the treacherous Manacles to the west and the sheer size of the Bay, boat skills have to be of a high standard.Also for ease I have included the odd wreck which really is just outside Falmouth bay, but near enough.

  • The Manacles – an overview
  • Mohegan
  • Volnay
  • Caroni River
  • Bay of Panama
  • Andromeda
  • Ben Asdale
  • Hera
  • Joseph Cauchi,survivor from the Hera
  • German Submarines
  • The Wreck of the Conqueror

Bombs And Bullets

Plymouth they used to say, was the cradle of the Royal Navy,and since before Napoleonic times, rings of fortifications were built around the coast to protect the Navy and its Dockyard. All of these forts practiced fired into the sea, and during the two World Wars, thousands of tons of ammunition, in the shape of bombs and bullets, were dropped, fired, or dumped onto the sea bed.

If you dive around Plymouth it is impossible to avoid seeing these pieces of ordinance, even if you do not immediately recognize what they are. Many are still lethal and should not be interfered with .

I am gratefull to Dave 'Bomber' Page, seen here examining a lead covered Armstrong shell, for all the research and photo's that he provided for this section. 'Thanks Dave'.

I am gratefull to Dave ‘Bomber’ Page, seen here examining a lead covered Armstrong shell, for all the research and photo’s that he provided for this section. ‘Thanks Dave’.

 

  • Cannon Balls
  • Breach and Muzzle Loaders
  • Small Arms
  • Anti Aircraft Artillery
  • Base and Nose Fuses
  • Black Powder and Cordite
  • The Brennan Torpedo
  • St.Johns Creek-Mudrun

Truk Aggressor – Dive the Dream

After years of talking about it, there we were standing on a sandy beach underneath swaying palm trees gazing out over the ruffled waters of Truk Lagoon. Steve, Paul, and I had finally made it to the wreck divers heaven. Just off shore, gently at anchor, lay a large steel boat its white paint gleaming in the sunshine. This was the Truk Aggressor, our home for the next six days.

The Truk Agressor.

The Truk Aggressor.

If you are going to fly thousands of miles to dive your dream then you might as well do it in style, and the Aggressor has plenty of that, though it does not come cheap. However the price includes just about everything including all the beer you can drink, and an unlimited air supply. Well that’s what the brochure said though not having been on a live aboard before I was apprehensive. If the brochure was wrong my dream could soon turn into a nightmare. After a punishing flight from Guam, Steve, Paul, and I, had been met at Truk International Airport, (more a collection of lean-to sheds) by Lenny the skipper of the Truk Aggressor. He exuded efficiency and friendliness and we all took to him straight away. Soon we were bouncing down Truk’s only road in a battered Combi en route to the Intercontinental Hotel (motto, friends are also customers) were we would have a few cold beers and a snooze whilst Lenny and his crew finished refueling and cleaning the boat ready for our arrival. The outgoing passengers had said hullo at the airport, so it was a pretty tight schedule.

Nice big ladders for easy exit.

Nice big ladders for easy exit.

Once on board all my fears were immediately put to rest, we were introduced to the gorgeous Linda who besides taking all the P.A.D.I. courses and processing all our film, acted as the Mate and generally made our lives very comfortable. The lounge was huge, carpeted and panelled in a light oak, which with its large windows made this ‘room’ very relaxing and welcoming. Across the forward end was a large bar area with fridges containing wine, beer and plenty of soft drinks. At the other end the room was furnished with two huge semi circular sofa’s surrounding a video screen and a stack of the latest movies.

Down below were the cabins. We had thought that we would have to share, but with only fourteen guests on board,( they only take twenty when they are full ) we each had our own cabin with a double bunk, en suite shower and toilet, and a full sized wash basin. Dotted around the walls were lots of underwater photos. Everything was paneled or carpeted and whilst very practical the boat had the ambience of a good quality hotel. Up top was a vast sundeck with chairs and loungers. This area was also carpeted so that the deck did not fry your feet and had another bar area complete with coolers containing beer and soft drinks.

Nice big diving platform at the rear.

Nice big diving platform at the rear.

At the stern was the business end of the boat, the diving platform. This was on two levels and extremely well thought out. The main deck level had individual lockers for your fins and mask etc, with the tanks racked up all along the sides. A high pressure air system fed air to four hoses so that the crew could fill up all the tanks where they stood. A wire with hangers was fed around the underside of the sun awning, which allowed you to hang up all your gear to dry in between dives. Just outside the main lounge door was a large three tiered camera wet table and a large briefing board. To get into the water you kitted up, handed your fins and camera to one of the crew, usually Charlie, and walked down three steps to the jump off platform which is only about a foot above the water. When you are ready you just step into the water, take your camera from the ever helpful Charlie and swim down to the wreck. After your dive you just reverse the process and climb up one of the two huge diving ladders. Your gear has already been placed in a large freshwater tank at the rear of the platform and you are left washing the salt out of your hair under one of the freshwater showers. Nothing could be simpler, which is just as well because on our first dive brief Lenny told us that, if we wanted to, we could do five dives a day. Well, we certainly wanted to do that.

The wrecks have just enought coral to enhance them.

The wrecks have just enought coral to enhance them.

Over the next six days we dived thirteen of the twenty five wrecks inside the Lagoon, and on most days did four day dives and one night dive. This might seem a little relentless, but believe me, it wasn’t. The quality of the diving,(the wrecks were simply stunning) combined with the excellence of the dive boat, and the organization of Lenny, Linda , and the boys just made the diving seem effortless. A typical day started at around seven o’clock with a huge breakfast. Some of the choices were a bit unusual .Ham and eggs is ok, but porridge sprinkled with drinking chocolate ?? At eight o’clock the cry, dive brief , echoed throughout the boat , and Lenny or Linda would then tell us the dive program for the day and describe in detail the wrecks and any wrinkles that might be helpful to us. We were left pretty much to do our own thing dive wise. They did not even insist on us diving in pairs, and there was none of the herding around that we had all worried about. The only things that they were really strict on was drinking and diving, and they more or less insisted on you doing a ten minute safety stop. Since the nearest pot was at Guam this seemed to be a reasonable request. Diving insurance was obviously mandatory. There was also a large log board which Lenny liked us to use to log ourselves in and out of the water. This was a really good idea as it meant that he knew exactly where we all were and allowed us to dive at different times, so that quite often we had the wreck completely to ourselves.

One of the islands that dot the Lagoon.

One of the islands that dot the Lagoon.

There also seemed to be an agreement between all the dive boats in the Lagoon not to dive on the same wrecks so there was no crowding at all. We usually had a two hour interval between dives and if the boat needed moving to another wreck that’s when Lenny would do it. In order to manoeuvre the Aggressor over the wreck, Lenny had a small pad linked to his bridge controls that allowed him to wander all around the boat whilst steering it at the same time. He did not anchor on any of the wrecks for fear of damaging them . Instead, when he was right over the wreck he would send down Charlie who would look for a pre-arranged bollard, or a rope strop already in position. When he found it he would purge his mouthpiece, and when Lenny saw his bubbles coming up he carefully lowered the mooring rope down to Charlie who then secured the Aggressor to the wreck.

Part of the Officers accomodation on Etan

Part of the Officers accomodation on Etan

All through the day food of one sort or another appeared in vast quantities produced by our local cook, Tai. All bread and cakes were made on board, and his mission in life seem to be to add at least a stone to every ones body weight. At about eight in the evening the night diving commenced and by ten o’clock most of us were tucked up in bed tired out The boat stayed moored over the wreck at night to ensure a sound sleep. Your wake up call in the morning was the Aggressors diesels starting up at six forty five. Occasionally we would land on one of the islands to look at some of the old Japanese buildings, and one day we were very lucky to meet Kimio Aisak who came on board and gave us a talk. He was the first person to start diving on the wrecks, and had been on the islands when the Japanese invaded.

Some people still live in the ruins.

Some people still live in the ruins.

The diving conditions in the Lagoon were perfect. Water temperature was about eighty degrees Fahrenheit and the air temperature never less than ninety, but the boats air conditioning kept us all very comfortable. Although quite a wind blows through the islands, and torrential rain storms can come and go in a flash, the water is usually completely flat, so visibility stays around the sixty, to a hundred foot range. With no pollution the water stays extremely clear. Most of the wrecks are in just over the one hundred foot mark, with their main decks and superstructure in about fifty to seventy feet. Because of this you really will need a dive computer to take full advantage of the diving. Telegraphs and helms in the bridges are the norm, and a great abundance of crockery, shells, bullets, gas masks, Zero fighters, lorries, and even a tank lie scattered around the various wrecks in such a way as to give you perpetual heart failure. The ‘no take’ rule is strictly enforced and after a while you just do not want to take anything because somehow it would spoil it all.

Lanterns, just some of the many artifacts on the wrecks.

Lanterns, just some of the many artifacts on the wrecks.

Strangely some of the wrecks that we dived on were British ships bought by the Japanese before the War and converted to supply or repair ships. On one in the boiler room was a large brass plate with the makers name on it, and some of the pressure gauges still had English tally’s on them. Apart from the stunning beauty of the wrecks (there was just enough coral to make them pretty, but not enough to distort their features) it is their completeness that really amazes you. Racks of spanners neatly laid out in the engine rooms, blocks of drill bits in the machine shop, Medicine chests full of bottles, bath houses with their toilets and wash basins, submarine periscopes laid out in companionways. Some of the temperature gauge’s still have the mercury inside them, and in one compartment steel lampshade complete with bulbs still hang from the deck head. It was better than all our dreams and when the last dive had been done, and it was time to go, we had to be prized away from the Aggressor like spoilt children from a sweet shop.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Truk Lagoon: The Reason

On 7 Dec 1941 the Japanese, in an unprovoked attack, bombed Pearl Harbor completely destroying most of the American Pacific Fleet. This act finally pushed America into the war and made the outcome inevitable.

In the fierce fighting that ensued, American sea power, especially the Carrier Task Forces, were to prove crucial. Out maneuvered, outgunned and lacking sufficient air power Japan fell back before the onslaught until the Americans stood at the gates of the Caroline Islands (now Micronesia).

Gas masks, ammo, and pottery.

Gas masks, ammo, and pottery on the Fujikawa Maru

Here lay the Truk Islands, a near atoll of twelve volcanic islands inside a huge lagoon fifty miles long by thirty miles wide. This was Japan’s second most important base outside its homeland and was home to the Combined Fleet and strategically used as a supply base on the 17 Feb 1944 operation Hailstorm was launched. At last revenge for Pearl Harbor was at hand. 450 planes bombed, strafed, and torpedoed the lagoon and its islands for two days. Over fifty ships were sunk and 270 planes destroyed. oil storage tanks were set ablaze, the runways, workshops and barracks severely damaged. Close to eight thousand people were killed or injured. It was Pearl Harbor in spades and the end of Japan as a sea power.

Today the islands live on their past history. A population off thirty two thousand ekes out a poor living growing coconuts and servicing the thriving tourist industry. For all that its development is slow, it is still an idyllic tropical island and its people are very friendly. A typical tropical island. With out the treasure of its wrecks it would have been long forgotten Cheaper air fairs and mass tourism may still ruin the islands, but the undersea areas are treated as a mass war grave and very well protected. Apart from Scapa Flow in Scotland, there is nowhere on earth that you can see this amount of shipwrecks in such a total state of completeness. The wrecks have been rusting quietly for fifty years now, and in fifty more years, they will have collapsed and become meaningless piles of scrap. If you want to see the eighth wonder of the world, go now, later will be too late.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Nippo Maru

One of the deepest wrecks that we dived during our stay, was the Nippo Maru. She was only discovered in June 1980 by Klaus Lindemann, and is one of the most interesting wrecks in the Lagoon. (Klaus Lindemann wrote Hailstorm Over Truk Lagoon, the definitive work on the shipwrecks and associated history of Truk Lagoon.)

Engine telegraphs in the bridge.

Engine telegraphs in the bridge.

The Nippo Maru was a medium sized freighter, some three hundred and fifty feet long with a fifty-foot beam. She was built by the Kawasaki Dockyard and launched in September 1936. At first she was used as a fruit transporter, shipping bananas from Taiwan to Japan. Then she was converted into a water transport ship and munitions carrier. She would frequently stop at Truk to take on water and then distribute it and any munitions around the garrisons on the smaller coral islands that did not have enough of their own supply.

Nippo Maru

Nippo Maru

Whilst on one of these round robins on February 16th 1945 she was bombed and torpedoed and sank in 160 feet of water. She now rests upright with a heavy list to port, and her stern almost buried in a sloping reef. The Nippo Maru is often called the ” the million dollar wreck ” because her five holds are packed full with ammunition and armaments of all kinds. Hemispherical mines, cannon barrels, gun mounts for shore batteries, machine guns, gas masks, bronze rangefinders and small arms ammunition of all kinds lie scattered all around this wreck. The bridge is almost intact with its ships compass and engine telegraphs. Nearly all the wrecks that we dived had these instuments in their bridges, but it was still such a thrill to see these artefacts still in situ.

Yes its a tank.

Yes its a tank.

Near number 4 hold are three field howitzers still mounted on their wheeled carriages. These are a fantastic sight but the best was yet to come, and it is what the Nippo Maru has become famous for. A tank. That’s right a tank just standing on the main deck near number 2 hold at a depth of about 130 feet. This tank is a Type 95 Ha-Go or Ke-Go, built by Mitsubishi. They weigh about seven and a half tons, were powered by 120 horsepower diesel engine, and had a crew of three. The tank is a great sight, and as you drift back up to the dive boat you get to see the whole wreck laid out, but you keep your eye on the tank until it fades from view.

A field howitzer

A field howitzer

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Rio De Janeiro

This wreck is one of the standard dives in the Lagoon because it is so huge, nearly 500 feet long. Because its bows are in 130 feet, but its sides in 50 feet, it is a good dive for people of all abilities. The Rio de Janeiro was built in 1929 by Mitsubishi in Nagasaki as a passenger and cargo liner. She could accommodate up to sixty first class passengers in considerable comfort in cabins grouped around the Bridge deck area. The one thousand and seventy six third class passengers were located on A deck, and the main deck level.

A huge bronze prop.

A huge bronze prop.

Although there were eight or twelve passengers to a cabin, the accommodation was quite spacious for the time, with a smoking saloon and medical facilities made available as were eight wash houses and five Japanese type baths. The Rio had five holds with seven watertight bulkheads, and a maximum speed of 17.6 knots. Between 1925 and 1929 four sister ships were built and cruised between Japan, Honkong, Singapore, South Africa, and South America. In October 1940 she was taken into the Navy dockyard of Sasebo for conversion to a submarine tender and depot ship. Later she was reclassified as a transport ship and based at Truk, where on the first day of Operation Hailstorm, she was bombed by planes from the aircraft carrier Yorktown.

Yes its another one.

Yes its another one.

The Rio de Janeiro burned for most of the day and gradually sank slowly by the stern. The Rio is a great dive and you could easily spend a week on it. Although the wreck lies in 130 feet it rises to just about 30 feet below the surface so you can spend quite a long time on it. The wreck lies on its starboard side and exposes what for me is its best feature, two massive bronze props. These were a fantastic site, and almost made us go hoarse as we shouted to each other in our excitement. The ship is very accessible, and you can easily swim along the passage ways and into the holds. There are masses of coal, bottles and pottery lying all over the place, and if you are not careful you could easily spend the whole dive sifting through all these fascinating bits and pieces.

Sifting through all the pots and others bits.

Sifting through all the pots and others bits.

At the bow is a large gun with its barrel pointing down over the starboard side, and then you see the anchor chain running out through the starboard hawse hole. The anchor is supposed to be about 150 feet off the bow but I never saw it as I was to busy trying to get my heartbeat down in the bridge where there is a fantastic (I am beginning to over use this word) helm and telegraph. Some of the wooden decking is still there as well. I am not normally one for looking at fish, but on this wreck in particular the fish are particularly pleasing, with lots of iridescent colours. The coral is also pretty spectacular, again with just enough to give colour and vibrancy to the twisted steel. I did two dives on the Rio de Janeiro and just saw the highlights. One day I hope to come back and do it all again and see the rest.

I will never see a sight like this again, a complete helm.

I will never see a sight like this again, a complete helm.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Hoki Maru

The Hoki Maru was originally the British – New Zealand ship Hauraki, and was a cargo ship with accommodation for twelve passengers. She was built by William Denny and Brothers at Dumbarton in Scotland, and launched on 28th of November 1921.

The Hoki Maru

The Hoki Maru

In 1942 the vessel was owned by the Union Steamship Corporation of New Zealand, and whilst on a voyage from Freemantle to Colombo, she was seized by the Japanese auxiliary cruisers Aikoko Maru, and the Hokoko Maru. She was renamed the Hoki Maru and rated as a ‘special transport’. Early in January 1944 the ship left Yokohama loaded with a full cargo of coal and other defence materials bound for Truk. When she got there she had no time to offload her cargo before she was bombed and sunk.

Parts of the wreck are only 30ft below the surface.

Parts of the wreck are only 30ft below the surface.

It is about 120 feet to the sea bed where the Hoki now lays, but only 80 feet to the main amidships section. The wreck is well broken up and a large piece of her stern has disappeared altogether. The wreck is famous for its cargo of intact trucks and tractors, which rest partly on the hatch, cover beams on the second ‘tween deck. The trucks are all complete with mudguards, headlights, and tyres. Some still have glass in their side windows. There is also a steamroller and a sort of bulldozer. They are all packed closely together and it is a bit spooky to see them all sitting there in the yellow green light. Soon however clouds of silt obscure them so it is time to move on. The Hoki is littered with rice bowls, glass containers, mainly bottles, and some interesting toilet bowls.

The ship is strewn with great piles of crockery.

The ship is strewn with great piles of crockery.

Another unusual factor is a maker’s plate. This is a brass plate showing the ships details and launch date. The dive brief had given us precise instructions on how to find it in the amidships section, and it was strange to see those British details on a ship sunk so far away from home.

The hold is full of trucks.

The hold is full of trucks.
The hold is full of trucks.

The hold is full of trucks.

It is also a sobering thought to realise, that of the original crew who were captured by the Japanese, only the Captain, a Mr. A.W.Crease, and twenty three others survived the incessant beatings, malnutrition and hard labour of the Mitsubishi dockyards, and the Ofana prison camp.

God bless them all.

Its really just too much,three lanterns.

Its really just too much,three lanterns.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Fumizuki

The Fumizuki is a Japanese destroyer of the Mutsuki class. She was built in 1925, and launched in Feb 1926 at Osaka. At the time of her sinking she was getting on for eighteen years old, and was already considered obsolete, even though she could reach speeds in excess of 35 knots.

The Fumizuki.

The Fumizuki.

The Fumizuki belonged to the Fifth Destroyer Flotilla and was part of 3 Blockade and Transport Fleet based at Formosa, now called Taiwan. All members of this group saw extensive service in the Solomon Islands between 1942-43, and most of the Flotilla ended up sunk there. The Fumizuki also formed part of the famous ‘Tokyo Express’ which tried to relieve the Japanese forces at Guadacanal. By the end of the war none of this class of destroyer survived.

Bow Gun

Bow Gun

On the 4th of January 1944 the Fumizuki was attacked by planes from American aircraft carriers operating in the Stephens Straits, but managed to escape only to be severely damaged three weeks later by B52 bombers. She finally arrived in Truk six days later to undergo extensive repairs. When the raid on Truk started, she was moored helplessly near a repair ship with both her turbines and boilers partially dismantled. In between the lulls in the bombing the crew managed to get one of the turbines working, got up steam, and on one propeller slowly eased her way out to open water.

I just love this stuff.

I just love this stuff.

The next day the Fumizuki was extensively bombed, but they all missed. One however dropped very close to her port side, and because it had a delayed action fuse, it exploded underwater, blew a great hole in the hull, and her one engine was put out of action. The crew worked feverishly to patch up the hole in the hull, but in the end the ship developed such a list to port that they had to give up. The Captain put out an anchor to stop the boat stranding on the reefs, but it was all too late. The boat continued to list heavily, and the Captain ordered every one to abandon ship. A few hours later the Fumizuki slipped beneath the waves.

An engine telegraph in the bow.

An engine telegraph in the bow.

She now lies on the bottom with a fifteen-degree list to port, with her starboard anchor lying on the sand with its thick chain leading up to a windlass on the bow. The wreck is in quite good condition, except for the bridge, which sort of fell off and now lies upside down on the sand. Also at the bow is a 3 or 4-inch gun with an open turret, which is quite nicely covered in soft coral, and a bit further back are the remains of some torpedo launchers. Where the two funnels were, is another gun like the one on the bows, which is also encrusted in coral. The whole wreck is very compact and there are lots to see. Plenty of portholes and all the usual paraphernalia of gas masks, ammunition and china that I never get tired of rummaging through. I did not have long on this wreck as our next one was the enormous Shinkoko Maru, and I needed to save some time. That was a shame, because although the Fumizuki is not a spectacular wreck, it certainly is interesting.

There is so much to look at.

There is so much to look at.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Fujikawa Maru

Of all the wrecks in Truk Lagoon, the Fujikawa Maru is probably the most famous, and rightly so. For sheer size, intactness, and heart stopping diving it takes some beating and is possibly in the top three most exciting wreck dives anywhere in the world.

Built in 1938 by Mitsubishi for the ship owners Toyo Kaiun, the Fujikawa Maru was 450 ft long and nearly 59 feet in the beam, and was used as a liner on the North American run. Later she saw service in India and South America, where she not only carried passengers in comfortable accommodation, but also cargo’s of raw silk, cotton, jute and flax. In 1940, a year before Pearl Harbour, the Fujikawa was taken over by the Imperial Japanese Navy and converted into an aircraft ferry. During this conversion she was fitted with six inch bow and stern guns cannibalised from old cruisers which had last seen action during the Russian Japanese war. She also had anti aircraft guns mounted on her boat decks close to the bridge wings. Originally stationed with the 22 Air Fleet in Indo China, she ferried aircraft all over the Pacific. On the 12 Sept 1943 the Fujikawa Maru was hit by a torpedo from the American submarine Permit, but despite extensive damage she managed to avoid further action and limped into the safety of Truk Lagoon.

Yes, its a propellor blade.

Yes, its a propellor blade.

She was back in service by Jan 1944, and continued her role of ferrying aircraft all around the Pacific Islands. On 17 Feb 1944 she was back at Truk discharging 30 Jill torpedo bombers, when she was hit by a torpedoed launched by a strike bomber attached to the carrier group which included the U.S.S. Monterey and Bunkers Hill. The torpedo’s trail ran true, and struck amidships just aft of the bridge superstructure. The Fujikawa was anchored at the time, and as she filled with water she began to slowly sink stern first and ended up on an almost even keel 110 feet down at the bottom of the Lagoon.

The cockpit of a Zero Fighter.

The cockpit of a Zero Fighter.

Today, most of the dive boats anchor somewhere on the forecastle’s and the first thing that you see is a large six inch gun mounted on the bow. Interestingly this is an English gun made in 1899. Bolted to the breach is a makers plate with all the details and scattered around the gun are plenty of shell cases and a few live rounds. Just behind the gun platform is the forward hold, and if you thought the gun was exciting, wait until you get inside the hold. Here you will find huge amounts of ammunition all clipped up ready to be loaded into the Zero fighter planes stored further down in the hold. Yes that’s right, a hold full of Zero fighters. Of course they are all in pieces with wings, nose cones and whole fuselages jumbled together with tail assemblies and propeller blades, but even so its enough to give you heart failure. In the second hold is a complete cockpit of a Zero. None of the glass in the window frames and the control dials is fitted, but you can clearly see where all the switches should be and where the guns are to be mounted. It is a breathtaking sight, especially when you get used to the gloom and see all the shell cases and propeller blades mixed together with radial engines and their cowlings further down at the bottom of the hold.

This one came away in his hand, but was was placed carefully back on the deck.

This one came away in his hand, but was was placed carefully back on the deck.

Further back towards the middle of the superstructure, the bridge has been partly blown away, but you can clearly see the wooden decking to which is bolted the brass telegraph. Portholes are everywhere and very loose because the metal has rusted away. This means that the portholes can come off in your hand. Do not be tempted, as the dive operators take a very dim view and can levy huge fines on the spot. All around is the rubbish of shipboard life. Old bottles and small plates with the initials T.K. (Toyo Kien) lie scattered along side old gas masks and brass lamps. The coral is terrific. Not enough to obstruct the features of the wreck, but enough to give it life and color, and to support the hoards of small brightly colored fish. In the passages are plenty more artifacts. Bottles,plates and mounds of rice bowls are commonplace. Around this area is situated the galley which has a large coal burning cooking range with various pots and pans lying around. Further along the passage is a bath house with tiled baths built up from the deck, with a row of urinals bolted to the bulkhead. All these areas are coated in a fine sediment, so any unguarded movement can send up clouds of muck which make photography extremely difficult. Also there are masses of old electrical cables hanging down from the deck head so you have to move carefully to avoid becoming tangled up.

Gas masks, ammo, and pottery.

Gas masks, ammo, and pottery.

Because there are so many portholes you soon transfer your affections to the huge brass navigation lanterns and the smaller but extremely well made bound brass deck lights Going into the murky gloom of the vast engine room was an experience I shall never forget. It is not the size that amazes you but the completeness of the place. You can actually walk along the metal companionways and trip up and down the ladders. All the gauges and instruments are still there, and many have the mercury in the thermometers. Tools lie all around but mostly they are neatly racked in their proper stowage’s on the bulkhead. The boilers with their switches although coated with sediment look almost unused. You feel that if you could throw a switch the whole engine room would burst into life. Soon, in you haste to see everything you stir up the muck and even with a torch you cannot see a thing. so its back up to the deck to look at the after gun, and pick around the gun platform at the spent cartridge cases and the odd little plate or bottle lying buried in the sand.

There is always something to find.

There is always something to find.

All together we did three dives on the Fujikawa Maru and one of those a night dive. Night dives are always a bit special, but this was to be a truly magical experience We went in about twenty minutes before the rest of the crowd so that we could explore the forward gun and part of the bridge. When we had finished this we repaired to the huge foremast that rises from the deck of the Fujikawa to within ten feet of the surface. The mast is covered in beautiful yellow and orange cup corals, which in the torchlight looked absolutely stunning. But the best was yet to come. As we sat on the mast’s crosstree we could see the rest of the divers swimming down the rope nearly seventy feet away.

Nearly did not see this telegraph.

Nearly did not see this telegraph.

Their powerful torches bathed them in shadowy light and every so often their safety strobes flashed on and off like aircraft beacons. We switched off our torches and could see the wreck lit up below us. As the divers bubbles rose to the surface they caught in the phosphorescence and set off great trails of light like millions of fireflies and every so often a diver would become completely outlined so that his body seemed consumed by fire. With the strobes blinking away and their torches flashing in the gloom, the whole effect was like something out of Close Encounters.

We sat there entranced, but soon it was time to leave and swim back up to the boat and reality.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

The Betty Bomber

After a couple of days diving on the huge heart stopping wrecks in Truk Lagoon, it is nice to pause, get your blood pressure under control, and dive on something smaller and more manageable. This is probably why the wreck of the Betty Bomber is one of the most popular small dives in the Lagoon. ‘Betty’ was the code designation for the Mitsubishi G 4 M bomber, was used by the Japanese Navy mainly as a tactical strike plane, but it could also be used to drop torpedos against surface ships.

The tail of the Betty Bomber.

The tail of the Betty Bomber.

In the early days of the Second World War Japan had no independent Air Force, so the Navy pushed the whole project through and got mass production started in the early 1940’s. By all accounts she was a good aeroplane, with a long range which revolutionized air operations by the Japanese in the Pacific. At first she was well liked by her pilots, but soon she became known as the ‘flying cigar’ partly because of her shape, and partly because her fuel tanks were unprotected, and so when she was hit they would immediately burst into flames.

The cockpit.

The cockpit.

The Betty Bomber that we dived on had crashed just short of the island of Etan’s runway. Whether it was shot down or just made a error of judgment we do not know. However what ever happened, she must have come in very low and slow because she did not disintegrate as she hit the water, but sort off gently slid under. Her engines were probably still going as well, because they became detached and continued underwater for about another hundred yards. Today, the ‘Betty lies in about fifty feet of gin clear water on a sandy bottom surrounded by coral outcrops, and provides a magnificent sight. lt is not often that you get to see an almost intact aero plane, and what’s more one that you can easily get inside. The wings and tail section are intact, but it is the nose section that grabs your attention even though it is quite badly bent and twisted. You can sit in the pilot’s position, the actual seat is lying out near the coral, and then swim out of the nose and back to the gunners bay located just aft of the wing

You can get right insde the Bomber.

You can get right insde the Bomber.

Here you can easily swim into the main hold of the aircraft. There is a machine gun, parts of a radio, some small boxes and other bits and pieces to poke through. The inside and outside are remarkably clean and show that coral really cannot get a grip on the aluminium of the plane’s body. Outside on the sand are various bits of the plane that have broken off and more parts of a machine gun. Most peculiarly there was also a portable toilet. Further out from the nose, lying on the coral were the engine pods, but they were quite bashed up and really not very interesting. It is the ‘Betty’ that takes the eye. The visibility is so good that you can see her from all angles much as you could view a plane on the surface at an airport. The difference is, that underwater, it is you that can fly right over her. The ‘Betty’ is an excellent dive and provides a sight that will remain in my mind for a very long time.

You can just make out the whole bomber.

You can just make out the whole bomber.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

U.S.S.Arizona

I have put this ship here because it was the ultimate reason for Operation Hailstorm, and because many divers going to Truk, feel that it is right that they should visit Pearl Harbour and see this memorial for themselves. Most find that it is an extremely moving experience, and well worth the effort.

The Arizona Memorial.

The Arizona Memorial.

I don’t know about you, but I was never very good at learning history dates at school. Some of course are easy because they refer to some great national event. I066 for instance is, as everybody knows, the date of the Battle of Hastings, and the 4th of July is the American Day of Independence. Easy so far? well what about Dec 7th I94I? It does not mean a lot over here, but if you ask any American he will come right back with Pearl Harbor and the ‘ Day of Infamy’. It was on that date that the Japanese launched an air strike that completely destroyed the American Pacific Fleet and finally brought America into the Second World War. one of the first ships to be sunk was the U.S.S. Arizona, a thirty two thousand ton Battleship. she was hit by an Armour piercing bomb, which landed near her forward turrets, and penetrated down five decks starting a massive fire which soon spread to the forward magazines. Nearly two million pounds of ammunition was stored there, and when it detonated it was with all the force of a one-kilo ton nuclear bomb.

The U.S.S.Arizona sails down the East river, on her way to sea.

The U.S.S.Arizona sails down the East river, on her way to sea.

The explosion pealed back the main deck like a banana skin and hurled bits of the Arizona all over the Harbor. As her fuel oil poured out of her ruptured hull it ignited and burned so furiously that it took two days to burn out, and left the hull so hot that it was three days before anybody could set foot on what was left of the vessel. Within nine minutes of the bomb striking, the Arizona had sunk in an upright position, with only her masts and superstructure left forlornly poking above the water. Of the fourteen hundred and forty six crew, all but two hundred and sixty nine were engulfed in the cataclysmic explosion, many being trapped below deck, only the huge billowing mass of smoke from the burning Arizona marked their passing, and this soon joined with the smoke and fire from all the other burning ships until it seemed, from the air, that all of Hawaii had disappeared under an enormous black cloud.

The Day after.The Arizona from port bow looking aft.

The Day after.The Arizona from port bow looking aft.

In the aftermath only one hundred and five of the dead were recovered, and with America now up to her neck in the war , salvage teams were urgently needed elsewhere. Everything above the water was removed, and the Arizona, still with eleven hundred of her crew entombed, was left to her watery grave. The Navy however did not forget her completely, and soon she became the unofficial memorial to that terrible tragedy. As warships passed the wreck they would fire salutes and dip their flags, and their crews would silently remember their dead comrades. After the war, in 1950, the Arizona was put back on the active list ( rather like our H.M.S. Victory ) and a small wooden platform with a flagpole was erected so that she could fly the stars and stripes.

The Arizona memorial rests over the hull of the sunken battleship.

The Arizona memorial rests over the hull of the sunken battleship.

With tourism to Hawaii increasing, many more people became interested in the Arizona, and in 1962 the striking white concrete structure you see today was erected, and the whole wreck dedicated, not only to the crew of the Arizona, but to all the men that died in the attack on Pearl Harbor. By I980 the Arizona was attracting over a million visitors a year and the Navy, swamped by all these civilians, decided to give up the task and pass over the administration of the memorial and the new multi million dollar visitor’s complex to the National Parks Service. The Parks Service soon realized how little was actually known about the Arizona, and they spent a lot of time and effort tracking down survivors and interviewing them, as well as gathering all the information they could on the building and operation of the Arizona ( she was well over twenty five years old when she was sunk ) so that they could give accurate answers to the many questions asked by the visitors. When this task had been accomplished, they then turned to the wreck itself, and discovered to their horror that in the three years since they took it over substantial decay was already evident in the pieces of superstructure that they could see.

The roll call of all those brave souls lost.

The roll call of all those brave souls lost.

Three large ventilators for instance had collapsed just from corrosion, and the Arizona itself had settled by almost a foot since her sinking. Since the concrete memorial was over twenty years old, any further settlement could be disastrous, so the Parks Department decided on a full underwater archaeolog- ical survey. Since this would in effect take some years they decided to carry out a preliminary survey to set the data parameters. Visibility in Pearl Harbor is only about seven feet at the best of times, and at first the divers had great difficulty orientating them on the wreck. Some of the gun turrets had already been removed, and with the deck plating all peeled back, and great lumps of corral sticking out all over, things were a bit confusing to start with. Soon however the divers got their bearings and the survey ‘ proper’ got under way.

Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto,architect of the Japanese victory at Pearl Harbor.

Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto,architect of the Japanese victory at Pearl Harbor.

The bows and about twenty feet of the hull are still intact, but where the explosion took place in the forward magazine, the hull had splayed right out and a fourteen inch gun turret had collapsed downwards, ending up almost thirty feet below where it should have been. About halfway down her length the Arizona started to look more like a ‘normal’ ship and less like a scrap yard. Her stern is virtually intact except for her turrets which were removed in the original salvage. Here also were plenty of portholes, most still with their glass intact. where deadlights had been secured, air was still trapped between the glass and the steel lids. The divers were not allowed to penetrate the hull because it is still very much considered as a war grave, and for this reason also, no artifacts were brought up.

The Arizona at Puget Sound on Jan 1941.

The Arizona at Puget Sound on Jan 1941.

However looking through the portholes gave the divers some fascinating insights into those last terrifying moments. Machine gun ammunition is scattered all over the deck, a hose reel neatly laid out only minutes before the bomb detonated, and maybe most poignant of all, in the galley, scattered on the floor, the broken crockery of that final breakfast. All the divers found the experience very moving. It seemed to them so right that the Arizona should be left in peace to guard the bodies of its once proud crew For the millions of Americans who come to visit her, the Arizona is far from being an inanimate lump of scrap, just another war memorial. For them she has become a symbol of pride in their country, and of their hope for a future that will exclude disasters like the Arizona and the war that caused it.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Kimio Aisek

Kimio Aisek is Truk’s oldest and most experienced guide. He was born and raised on the island, and as a teenager he witnessed the attack on the islands and watched the destruction of many of the ships that we now dive on. He helped locate most of the wrecks in the lagoon and largely due to his efforts the wrecks of Truk Lagoon were brought to a wider audience.

Kimio in his glory days.

Kimio in his glory days.

In the 1960s, the crown of thorns starfish had made its appearance in huge numbers and proceeded to lay waste to the coral reefs, so much so that it was feared that they could destroy all the reefs in the Pacific. The Fisheries Department embarked on a program, to first check their growth, and then try to eradicate them. To this end local men were recruited and trained as scuba divers. This is how Kimio first learned to dive. What happened next is the stuff of fairy tales.

One day when coming back from a day battling with the starfish, he saw through the clear waters of the Lagoon a small discolouration on the sea bed. Curious, he stopped the boat jumped into the water and found himself hovering over the wreck of the Yamagari Maru. It must have been a fantastic sight. Soon he found a few more wrecks, and word of this amazing discovery soon spread, and an increasing number of divers, professional and amateur started to visit the Lagoon. Only a few wreck locations were known and most of these were relatively shallow.

The man himself signing my book.

The man himself signing my book.

Some of the deeper wrecks were found by a man called Sam Redford. Using recently declassified material from the U.S. Government archives, Redford started in 1972 and managed to locate several wrecks including the San Francisco, Aikoku Maru and the Amagisan. Meanwhile Al Giddings had arrived to do a shoot for National Geographic and got to know Kimio well and eventually persuaded him to open Truk’s first dive shop called appropriately, The Blue Lagoon. Kimio now started to look for wrecks in earnest. Recalling his teenage years as he watched the ships being sunk, he showed a remarkable ability to locate these wrecks and soon became the pre-eminent figure of diving in Truk.

By the end of the 1970’s, the locations of about thirty wrecks were known. In the mid eighties Kimio got to know Klaus Linderman an enthusiastic wreck diver who had decided to try and document all the wrecks in Truk Lagoon. Together they painstakingly searched the Lagoon and succeeded in finding another sixteen new wrecks. Many of these wrecks had human remains on them and Linderman and Giddings documented many these gravesites. Later the Japanese Government sent out teams of divers to remove these mortal remains so that they could be given a proper religious funeral service.

When I met Kimio Aisek in 1996 it was the 50th Anniversary of Operation Hailstorm and he was starting to get on in years. Even so he delighted in regaling us with his memories, which still seem as fresh to him as yesterday. He gave us a real insight into what it was like to live under Japanese occupation during the War (not to bad-we eat quite well and most of them were quite friendly) and was very descriptive about Operation Hailstorm. He said, ” The bombs came down like heavy rain “. To meet a man that virtually discovered one of the Underwater Wonders of the World was a real pleasure, especially as he seemed to get as much fun out of telling us his stories as we got from listening to them. However all things must pass. Many of the wrecks as they age are becoming extremely fragile. On some, the metal plating is so thin that you could easily put your fist through it. Eventually these wrecks will collapse and in another fifty years they could be completely hidden by coral.The Underwater Wonder will be no more. See it while you can.

Photo of Kimio's grave courtesy of Dianne.M.Strong

Photo of Kimio’s grave courtesy of Dianne.M.Strong

Sad News: Since I wrote this I have been informed of Kimio’s death on Jan 4th 2001. Apparently he suffered a heart attack half way between his home island of Dublon and Weno. He was 73. God bless him.

Truk Lagoon Dive Trip Report:

  • Truk Lagoon: Setting The Scene
  • Truk Lagoon: The Reason
  • Fujikawa Maru
  • Betty Bomber
  • Nippon Maru
  • Rio De Janeiro
  • Hoki Maru
  • Fumazuki
  • Kimio Aisak
  • Truk Aggressor
  • U.S.S. Arizona

Thomas. T. Tucker

Built by the Houston Ship building Company of Texas in September 1942, the Tucker was one of the hundreds of Liberty ships churned out by America to enable the Allies to move vast amounts of supplies to the War Zones. Armed with guns fore and aft and also amidships,she set off on her maiden voyage from New Orleans to Suez laden with a cargo of war materials for the Allies engaged in the Libyan dessert against Rommel’s Africa Corps.

Wreckage from the 'Tucker'.

Wreckage from the ‘Tucker’.

Although U-boats were operating in this area they did not manage to catch the Thomas.T. Tucker, instead it was the seamen’s worst enemy,fog. The fog banks of Cape Point are notorious, and if like the Master of the Tucker you think that you are somewhere off Robben Island (in the middle of Table Bay) then you are in deep trouble.

Everywhere lies rusting metal.

Everywhere lies rusting metal.

As it turned out in the subsequent inquiry, the ships compass had an error of 37 degrees, but even so no one ever quite explained why the vessel ran ashore at Olifantsbos Point,on the 27 of November 1942. In the event all hands were saved and the wreck soon broke up.

Directions to the Wreck

Olifants Bay is situated in the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, and as you enter you have to pay a small fee . For this they give you a very good map of the area with all the trails and roads well marked. Be warned however that nearly all the roads are dirt, which is ok in the dry, but can be a bit tricky in the wet. Either way it’s heavy on your tyres, so make sure you are in good shape as its a long way back to civilization.

Map of the area.

Map of the area.

One other thing, keep a good lookout for Leopard Tortoises. They look like rocks on the road until they move. The Rangers take a dim view if you run over any.

The Leopard Tortoise.

The Leopard Tortoise.

The Tuckers Trail starts from the parking area by the beach, takes you a few yards inland then sets you back on a spendid sandy beach.

More wreckage in the sand.

More wreckage in the sand.

The scenery is fantastic and the walking very easy. Its about a mile and a bit to the Tucker which is impossible to miss.In the summer the shoreline is covered with strange plants and colourful flowers, and sea birds turn and swoop in all directions. But it’s the beautiful beach that really makes the trip. It really is like something from another time, quiet and peaceful with not a soul around. A shipwreck too. Heaven.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Shipwreck Trail

The Shipwreck Trail is divided into two areas, the Cape Peninsula, and the Overberg. If you are doing the tourist route, this equates with Cape Town and the Garden Route and they all flow in together. We just hired a car and drove wherever the fancy took us.

Although the cities are a bit rough after dark ( where aren’t they ) we found the rest of the country very quiet and never felt threatened at all. The people are all extremely friendly, and in spite of ,or may be because of, our colonial past, people seemed to genuinely like us Brits. Makes a change.

Map of the Cape Peninsular.

Map of the Cape Peninsular.

All the Shipwreck sites have their own detailed map.

One note of caution. Some of the roads marked as main roads on the maps have a habit of running out of tarmac and becoming just dirt roads. When you are on steep mountain passes this can become a little disconcerting. There are not a lot of services available, so make sure you go prepared. (Make a packing list in advance if you need it).

Map of the Overberg.

Map of the Overberg.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Phyllisia

On May 3 1968, the 452 ton Cape town trawler Phyllisia was wrecked just up from the Thomas. T. Tucker, south of Olifantos Point. The trawler was 145 feet long and she struck the shore just before midnight.

The Phyllisia rusting on the beach.

The Phyllisia rusting on the beach.

Eleven of her crew managed to get ashore in lifeboats and the remaining fourteen were lifted of by helicopter. The trawler eventually broke up after all attempts to save her had failed due to the bad weather.

Directions to the Wreck.

Directions to the Wreck.

The Phyllisia is about two miles along from the Thomas.T.Tucker, and if you are fit and its not too hot, then a leisurely stroll along the beach might be for you. Most of us however will plump for the easier option of driving down to where the Phyllisia trail starts. It is an easy walk from there, but it will help if you get there at low tide as you will see more of the wreckage.

It is possible that you will see baboons on the shoreline. You will certainly see them at the Cape Point Lighthouse. On no account feed them or go near them with small children. The baboon is immensely strong, vicious, and can be very dangerous. End of lecture.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Nolloth

On April 30 1965 the 347 ton Dutch coaster, Nolloth, was approaching Oliphantos Point when she struck an unidentified object that later turned out to be the Albatross Rock. The crew were lifted of by helicopter and landed on the beach not yards from where the rusting remains of the Liberty ship Thomas. T. Tucker lay.

The remains of the Nolloth.

The remains of the Nolloth.

Her cargo, a valuable one containing liquor and general goods was salvaged and taken to cape Town by lorry along a specially constructed road along the beach. The Nolloth could not be taken off the rocks, so she was salvaged where she lay and what is left now lies rotting on the beach.

 

You can just see the wreck in the background. Photo Ferguson Collection.

You can just see the wreck in the background. Photo Ferguson Collection.

The remains of the Nolloth lie about half a mile from the wreckage of the Thomas.T.Tucker, and it is usuall to do both on the one trip. So when you get to the Tucker, just keep walking along the shore around the spit of land that its on, and you will soon see the Nolloth.

This shot of the Nolloth was taken by Stan Cooke's Dad. (Below)

This shot of the Nolloth was taken by Stan Cooke’s Dad. (Below)
Stan Cookes Dad

Stan Cooke’s Dad

I am grateful to Jan van der Luit, who was the Engineer on the Nolloth, for the following information and photos. Jan writes, In the past this ship had a lot troubles in its life,when my father bought this ship It was a wreck,she was traveling under the name LEUVEHAVEN and was owned by Van Uden from Rotterdam, a big ship owner.

The Nolloth as Reality.

The Nolloth as Reality.

Before she was named NOLLOTH it was the REALITY bought by my father ,he bought the ship from a Dutch friend of his and he owned a ship wharf. The ship was as a wreck he was collision with a japanese ship on the waterweg in Rotterdam, so my fathers friend bought it and restored it. Far before this , it was called ALPHA , Van Uden took over and is was called LeuVeHAVEN.

The Nolloth as LeuVehaven.

The Nolloth as LeuVehaven.

Then the whole family went to SOUTH AFRICA with the REALITY to Cape Town in 1956, and the ship got a charter with COAST LINES traveling between CapeTown and Port Nolloth The Coast Lines wanted to name the ship Nolloth and it got its Grave on the beach on the western Cape,so all ends there.

Salvaging the Nolloth.

Salvaging the Nolloth.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Kakapo

The Kakapo was a British steamer built in 1898 by the Grangemouth Dockyard Company and commanded by Captain P. Nicolayson.She was on her maiden voyage from Swansea in Wales, to Sydney in Australia. She had put onto Cape Town on May 25th 1900, before continuing her voyage in the teeth of a north west gale.

The Kakapo sunk in the Dunes.Stephen Goodson.

The Kakapo sunk in the Dunes.Stephen Goodson.

As she rounded Hout Bay the gale became so ferocious that it pushed the Kakapo towards the southern end of Chapmans bay. The Captain then mistook Chapmans Peak for Cape Point and by the time he realized his mistake the Kakapo had driven ashore on Noordhoek Beach.

Thankfully no lives were lost as the crew of twenty managed to scramble ashore. All attempts to pull the stricken vessel off the sandy beach failed and she was scrapped where she lay, some of her metal plates being used by the railways industry.

Another view of the wreck. Stephen Goodson.

Another view of the wreck. Stephen Goodson.

Today all that is left of the Kakapo are its boilers and what is left of her hull poking up through the sand as a stark reminder of the treachery of the sea.

Directions to the Wreck.

Directions to the Wreck.

The drive from Houts Bay, which incidentally is a great place to stop for a bite to eat, around Chapmans Peak, and down to the beach where the Kakapo lies, is one of the ‘great’ scenic drives. The road clings to the side of the Peak and the views are truly awe inspiring. The beach is easily found, and what a great beach it is. Perfect for horse riding, kite flying, and of course, looking at wrecks.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Clan Stuart

The Clan Stuart was built on the turret deck principle, which was designed to over come the restrictions of the Suez Canal. By building the sides of the ship about ten feet higher, it meant that the vessel would have a much larger carrying capacity. However in any sort of swell it made the ship roll in a most frightening manner.

The Clan Stuart arrived in Simond’s Town on the 21 November 1914 from St. Helena and anchored in the Bay.The weather soon deteriorated, and a severe south east gale blew up which caused the Clan Stuart to drag her anchor.

The Clan Stuart aground.

The Clan Stuart aground.

Unable to put another down ,or to get the existing anchor to hold fast, she was gradually driven towards the shore where she eventually ran aground.

The Clan line directors were confident of getting her off and soon Captain Barnes of the Glasgow Salvage Company arrived with all his salvage gear. All his efforts were hampered by bad weather, and although he managed to stop most of the leaks, a heavy swell had set in which seriously damaged the ship, and undid all his work.

Only the cylinder tops remain.

Only the cylinder tops remain.

The crew had been on board now for four months, and in the light of the circumstances the salvor’s advised the owners to abandon the ship. They were reluctant to do this and proposed one last effort. A wooden coffer dam was built around the damaged plates.

Unfortunately when the vessel was refloated the wooden coffer dam collapsed and the engine room flooded. The ship was lost and abandoned to its fate.

The 'jackass' or Cape penguins.

The ‘jackass’ or Cape penguins.

Today all that is left to see are the cylinder tops lying about 50 yards offshore.

While you are here pop along to ‘ Boulders ‘ and see the famous jack ass penguins.

Welcome.

Welcome.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Athens

Built in 1856, the Athens, a vessel of 739 tons was later purchased by the Union Steam Ship Company from the Liverpool firm of Schillizzi in 1858. For six years she led an uneventful life running a regular Mail service from Southampton to the Cape.

The Athens.

The Athens.

On May 16th 1865 the Athens was lying in Table Bay. The weather was atrocious, and out of the twenty eight vessels anchored in the Bay that day seventeen were to be lost in the storm that followed. As night fell the gale increased, and the Athens’s anchor cable parted. Her Captain, David Smith, however did not panic but managed to get the ship underway and tried to get her out to the open sea.

Sketch of the scene.

Sketch of the scene.

The vessel managed to round Mouille Point but was continually deluged by mountainous sea’s which eventually smashed through the skylight of her engine room and drowned the boiler fires.

Captain David Smith.

Captain David Smith.

Now helpless the Athens was driven onto the rocks between Mouille Point and Green Point. Although she was only a short distance from those would be rescuers that now lined the shore, it was not possible for them to give any aid, except to light flares to guide any one who tried to get ashore, or any one who tried to effect a rescue. None did.

The remains still show at low water.

The remains still show at low water.

By morning it was apparent that all twenty nine souls on board had perished. The only survivor was a pig, which much to its surprise was washed up safe and sound on the beach. It was later found that the lighthouse had no rescue gear at all, not even some rope or lanterns. Today the last remains of the Athens can still be seen sticking out of the water at Mouille Point.

Directions to the Wreck.

Directions to the Wreck.

Stroll along the sea front through Sea Point, and you will see in front of you the Mouille Point Lighthouse. Carry on about a hundred yards towards the Victoria and Alfred complex ( its one of her sons ) and you will see the remains of the Athens sticking out of the water. The Island that you see in the distance is Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated. You can visit the jail now by boat from the V&A and be shown around by ex inmates. Well worth the time.

The Mouille Point Lighthouse.

The Mouille Point Lighthouse.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Arniston

The Arniston, a British East Indiaman, was owned by Borradailes of London, and had made eight successful voyages to China and India. In 1813 she was requisitioned by the Admiralty for service as a troopship.The Arniston had been built in 1794 at the barnard Yard on the Thames, and was the equivalent of a Royal Navy fourth rate ship of the line and carried fifty eight guns.

Model of Arniston in Hotel.

Model of Arniston in Hotel.

On her fateful voyage she was homeward bound from Celon under the command of Captain George Simpson. Among her 378 passengers were 14 women, 25 children, Lord and Lady Molesworth, and many invalid soldiers and sailors returning from India.

The Arniston Hotel.

The Arniston Hotel.

The Arniston sailed at the beginning of April in company with six other Indiamen and an escort of H.M.S. Africaine. About the 26th of May she parted company with the convoy because most of her sails had been blown away due to bad weather. However three days later land was sighted a very long way off, and Captain Simpson unfortunately mistook it for Table Bay. Actually he was off the Agullas.The Arniston tried to beat against the wind and strong currents that were dragging her towards the land, but soon the breakers were plain to see crashing on a hostile shore.

The Arniston Memorial.

The Arniston Memorial.

All attempts to get some sea room failed and in the end three anchors were dropped to try and stem the ships onward rush. Two of the cables parted almost immediately, and the situation became so desperate that the Captain decided that his only hope of saving any lives was to try and run the ship ashore before night fell.

The sad text on the memorial, says it all.

The sad text on the memorial, says it all.

He cut the last remaining anchor warp and the ship hurtled towards the waiting Agullas Reef, where it struck with incredible force and immediately started to break up, and was a total wreck by midnight.

The beach where the survivors staggered ashore.

The beach where the survivors staggered ashore.

Only six men survived survived the disaster by clinging to planks of wood which were washed ashore in the huge surf. 350 poor souls perished, their bodies being thrown upon the beach the next day along side the smashed up wreckage of the Arniston. The six survivors, still convinced that they were near Table Bay, set of along the beach. Four days later they realized their mistake and staggered back along the beach and returned to the scene of the shipwreck. They managed to stay alive by eating shellfish and salvaging what they could from the ships supplies that by now littered the shore. On June 14th they were discovered by a farmers son who took them to his fathers farm where they were looked after and rested before finally continuing on to Cape Town.

Directions to the Wreck.

Directions to the Wreck.

Arniston was originally called Waenhuiskrans, (Waggon house cliff ) but changed its name after the wrecking, as it attracted so many visitors.

It is a very small village, but set in beautiful coastal location. The Arniston Hotel is right on the front and well worth a visit, as it is very comfortable and welcoming. The memorial is set on a bluff about one hundred yards from the hotel, so its very easy to find.

Inside the Hotel is a fine model of the Arniston and a large amount of information, including some small items salvaged from the wreck.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Antipolis and Romelia

In July 1977, these two derelict tankers were under tow by the small Japanese tug the Kiyo Maru 2, on their way from Greece to the scrapyards in the Far East. The tug made an unscheduled stop in Abijan ( North Africa ) because of some minor engine trouble, but all then went well untill the convoy approached Table Bay in the teeth of a North Westerly gale. The Port Captain at Cape Town advised them not to enter Table Bay as he thought the weather was worsening and he was worried that the two tankers would not have enough sea room.

The wreck of the Antipolis.

The wreck of the Antipolis.

Durring the afternoon, as the tug approached Robben Island with the gale now blowing harder than ever, the rope between the Antipolis and the tug snagged on the sea bed. All attempts to free it failed, and whilst the crew was busy with that task, the Romelia surged ahead of the tug taking its tow rope underneath the tugs hull.

Fearing for his props, the Tug Master could only watch in horror as the Antipolis finally broke her tow rope and became cast adrift. Meanwhile the tug was still firmly anchored to the bottom and the Captain had to order the crew to cut through the towing hawser with a gas torch so as to release his tug.

The Romelia aground with the tug alongside.

The Romelia aground with the tug alongside.

 

Whilst all this was going on, the Romelia then parted her tow rope and happily sped towards the waiting shore. The Antipolis ended up driven ashore by fifty knot winds at Oudekraal on the Cape Peninsula, and the Romelia was cast ashore on Sunset Rocks, in the pretty Llandudno Bay a few hundred yards away.She finally broke her back and sunk in two halves.

Today the skeleton of the Antipolis can still be clearly seen at low tide and has become a very popular shore dive.The Romelia broke up quite a bit more ,but even now you can see her rusting stern section silhouetted against the skyline still held fast on Sunset Rocks.

Directions to the Wreck

Map

Map

Drive out of Cape Town towards Hout Bay along the coastal, Victoria highway (M6). It is a stunning drive past the pretty beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay.

Mid way between Bakoven and Llandudno is Oudekraal where there is a large lay by, with an information plaque telling you that it is here that the wreck of the Antipolis lies. At the week end there are scores of cars containing divers and their equipiment, because the wreck is a very popular shore dive.

Just showing at low tide.

Just showing at low tide.

You can see the remains of the wreck quite clearly, its bow ribs are almost on the shore, and a bit further out, a boiler shows at low tide.

Another view from the top of Table Mountain taken in 1978 by Stan Cooke.

Another view from the top of Table Mountain taken in 1978 by Stan Cooke.

Just a little further along is the beautiful village of Llandudno nestling in its own tiny bay. it is a very steep drive down, and if you want to see the sunset over Sunset rocks, then the lay by just at the top gives a superb view. The stern of the Romelia is just visible at low tide. But it is the wonderful red glow on the rocks that really takes the eye.

Romelia on Sunset Rocks.

Romelia on Sunset Rocks.

After the sunset, go back to Camps Bay and have a smashing fish meal in one of the many lively bars or restaurants, and watch the last of the sun sparking off Table Mountain.

A great day out.

South Africa Shipwreck Trail

  • Map of Shipwreck Trail
  • Athens
  • Antipolis and Romelia
  • Kakapo
  • Thomas.T.Tucker
  • Nolloth
  • Phyllisia
  • Clan Stuart
  • Birkenhead
  • Cape Agullas
  • Arniston
  • Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museam

Zelda

The most seaward rock north west from Bryher is the Maiden Bower, and on her rocky crest many a ship has foundered, usually in thick fog. Around midnight on the 16 April 1894 fog again shrouded the Maiden Bower tricking the 1300 ton steamship Zelda into grounding hard and fast upon her. The Zelda, outward bound from Liverpool to Palermo was carrying a general cargo and some 32 passengers and crew when she struck. Luckily they all managed to abandon the vessel without mishap, and were rescued by two local Gigs who had set out from Bryher upon hearing the Zelda’s mournful siren blasts. Unfortunately the Zelda, which was on her maiden voyage, very quickly broke up and sank, and by the morning nothing remained to show that she had ever existed. However her Master Capt. Pace was exonerated from any blame in the subsequent inquiry, and later almost all the Zelda’s cargo was salvaged by divers who worked successfully on the wreck for many weeks.

The Zelda aground.

The Zelda aground.

Dive Report

The Zelda is an extremely good wreck dive and now lies in 50 feet of water smashed into pieces on the huge rocks and gullies that make up the bottom of this patch of seabed. Although well broken up there are still quite large pieces of wreckage scattered over a fairly wide area, and surprisingly there are still some brass bits and pieces left on the wreck. One of the main features is the Zelda’s large iron propeller still held by it’s A bracket. This is a most impressive sight and really sets the whole tone of the wreck dive. You can spend a very happy time poking around the wreckage, but if it starts to get boring you can move on to the other very strong feature of this site.

The feature in question is a large gully that leads to a small hole just big enough to wriggle into. This hole turns into a tunnel that leads about 20 feet up through the rock face till you come out of another hole. It’s not at all dangerous, but it is very scenic, and makes for a great piece of diving. The most disappointing part of the dive was the absence of seals. All round the rocks were small colonies of seals, but they were obviously wary of us, so they did not join us in the water, which was a great shame because we had all been looking forward to diving with them.

Poleire

The Poleire was a Cypriot motor vessel of some 2300 tons. In April 1970 she was on a voyage from Ireland to Gdynia in Poland carrying a cargo of zinc ore when she struck the Little Kettle Rock, which lies just north west of Tresco. There was a thick fog when she struck, and although less than a mile from the Round Island light house, her master failed to hear the fog signal. The sea was flat calm so all the crew managed to get of safely. Within a week the Poleire broke in two and sank.

The wreck of the Poleire.

The wreck of the Poleire.

The wreck now lies in less than 35 feet of water on a bottom consisting of shallow rocky gullies which are covered with kelp. Although the Poleire is a recent wreck she has been smashed to pieces and lies scattered over a very large area. However she provides a very good dive, because being well broken up there is a large amount of wreckage to be looked at. There is still quite a lot of’ brass left on her. We found a fairly large brass valve, but in the end had to leave it because it was attached to firmly for us to remove. There were various pieces of broken crockery, but we saw no sign of any whole pieces, or any personal effects. This was surprising, as the crew had had to leave most of their possessions on board her when they abandoned the vessel. Even so the site is well worth some more dives, and with a though going over could yield some interesting surprises.

Scilly but I like it: Plymton/Hathor, Mando,Delaware

Anyone looking at a chart of the Scilly 1sles soon realizes that this small Island group is just one huge trap. Over the centuries well over two thousand ships have been wrecked around it’s trecherous shore, giving the Islands one of the greatest concentrations of shipwrecks anywhere in the world. The variety is quite staggering, ranging from H.M.S. Association, that celebrated flagship of Sir Cloudesly Shovel, to that infamous supertanker the Torrey Canyon, with just about every type of ship in between.

Torrey Canyon on the Seven Stones Reef. Photo by Frank Gibson

Torrey Canyon on the Seven Stones Reef. Photo by Frank Gibson

From the divers point of view, the Scillies have those two compulsive indients, clear water and enough dive sites to beat all but the worst weather. Recently I spent a week vith Sub Aqua Scilly ( don’t think that’s running now ) diving on ten different vrecks, and all though all have their own facination, three sites really stood out, each in it’s own way demonstrating vhy the Scillies is such a wreck divers paradise.

Unloading the Plympton. Photo Gibson Collection.

Unloading the Plympton. Photo Gibson Collection.

The first site gives really good value because it contains two wrecks, the Plympton and the Hathor, one stuck right on top of the other. The Plympton, a steamship of 2869 tons was on it’s way from Falmouth to Dublin with a cargo of maize. On the night of 14 April 1909 she encountered thick fog, and with her foghorn sounding off at full blast she steamed full til t onto the Lethergus reef vhere she stuck fast. Her crew of twenty three were all landed safely and then the locals got down to the serious business of stripping the wreck. Unfortunately whilst work was still in progress, the high tidefloated the Plympton off the reef. whereupon she immediately turned over and sank, killing two men who were still inside the hull.

The Plymton rolls over. Photo Gibson collection.

The Plymton rolls over. Photo Gibson collection.

Eleven years later the 7060 ton German steamship Hathor was being towed to Portland after breaking down near the Azores. As she reached the Scillies a fierce gale erupted which parted the havsers of her two tugs. The gale was considered to severe to risk reconecting the tow, and so on 2 December 1920 the Hathor was abandoned to the storm and eventualy hit the Lethergus Rocks sinking right across the remains of the Plympton. The Plympton now lies in 120 feet of water on a very rocky bottom. She is well broken up, but her bows, although upside down are still more or less intact. The Hathor’s wreckage clothed in a profusion of large plumuose anemones is further up the reef in about 80 feet, and lies right across that of the Plympton.

Profusion of Plumouse.

Profusion of Plumouse.

Underwater the wrecks present a tremendous sight. Both are surrounded by huge boulders and high rocy pinacles, and over the years they have become completely locked together. A huge iron propeller still connected to it’s shaft lies alongside a stern section still complete with it’s railings and a derrick. Spars and mangled iron plate lie scattered all around together with other large sections of wreckage. Further down in the gloom can just be seen the bottom of the Plympton’s bow. So jumbled have the wrecks become that it is often difficult to see where one starts and the other ends. With so much to see, a dozen dives would really be necessary to sort everything out which maybe explaines why these wrecks are so popular.

The Mando. Photo Gibson Collection

The Mando. Photo Gibson Collection

The next wreck is out on the Golden Ball Bar and is of the 7176 ton Panamanian steamship the Mando. She was outward bound from Hampton Roads for Rotterdam, loaded with coal. On 21 January 1955 she lost her way in thick fog, ran aground on the Golden Ball Bar and quickly became a total loss. Now most of the Mando lies 50 feet down on a fairly flat rocy shelf, with her stern section further down in nearly 100 feet. All though well broken up the Mando still has a lot to offer in the way of large pieces of wreckage. The propeller shafts are particularly worth inspection as you can just about squeeze inside them. The most interesting part of the wreck however, is the remains of the engine room which overhangs deep gullies, making inspection of all it’s nooks and crannies very easy. All around lie large brass elbows from broken steam pipes, thick connecting rods, and all manner of other bits and pieces. The amount of brass on this wreck is really amazing. Parts of the wreck still contain all sorts of block ‘half’ bearings still locked around their shafts. Some are nearly three feet long, and all are made of solid brass. If you are a metal merchant or just an honest grubber, this wreck really should not be missed.

The Delaware rescue.

The Delaware rescue.

The last wreck is that of the 3423 ton steamship Delaware, outward bound from Liverpool to Calcutta carrying a cargo of silk. The Delaware was smashed to pieces on the ledges between the islands of Bryer and Samson during an exceptionally savage storm on 20 December 1871. The rescue of her five survivors involyed carrying a lifeboat across one of the islands, and assumed such epic proportions, that eyen today it is considered to be one of the bravest rescues ever carried out. Even so it was not without a touch of humour. Two of the survivors, convinced that the islanders were savages, barricaded themselves on a beach and pelted their would be rescuers with rocks, untill persuaded that they stood more chance of drowning than of being eaten by the Scillonians.

Inside the Delaware.

Inside the Delaware.

Today those ledges are named after the Delaware, and the remains of her wreckage now lie in 65 feet of water, well broken up except for the remains of the engine room which stands about 25 feet high. It seems to be on three levels, and since most of the sides are missing it is quite easy to swim around the large cog wheels and rods that almost fill the interior. At the very bottom, stuck away in a dark corner are three large brass elbows which despite considerable efforts still remain firmly concreted to the rocky bottom. The Delaware is not spectacular, nor is there a terrific amount of wreckage, so it is difficult to say quite why it is different. Maybe it’s just that , everyone seems to say off it, “what a good dive” and after all there cannot be a much better recomendation than that.

In the past the Scillies have relied on wrecking to help support their community, and today the wrecks are still contributing to the island economy as a major tourist attractiot A visitor cannot escape from the sense of history that permeates the islands, and it is this experience of living history,coupled with the amazing variety of wrecks, which makes the Scilly Islands unique.

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Submerged Books and DVDs

The Wreckers Guide To South West Devon Part 1
The Wrecker's Guide To South West Devon Part 1
The Wreckers Guide To South West Devon Part 2
The Wrecker's Guide To South West Devon Part 2
Plymouth Breakwater Book
The Plymouth Breakwater Book
The Plymouth Breakwater DVD
The Plymouth Breakwater DVD
Shooting Magic DVD
Shooting Magic DVD
Devon Shipwrecks DVD
Devon Shipwrecks DVD
The Silent Menace DVD
The Silent Menace DVD
The Tragedy Of The HMS Dasher DVD
The Tragedy Of the The HMS Dasher DVD
Missing  DVD
Missing: The Story Of The A7 Submarine DVD
HMS Royal Oak DVD
HMS Royal Oak DVD
Bombs And Bullets DVD
Bombs And Bullets DVD
Bay Watch DVD
Bay Watch DVD

Search Submerged

Devon Shipwrecks

  • Blesk
  • Bolt Head To Bolt Tail
  • Cantabria
  • HMS Coronation and the Penlee Cannons
  • Deventure
  • Dimitrios
  • Elk
  • Empire Harry
  • HMS Foyle
  • Fylrix
  • Glen Strathallen
  • Halloween
  • Herzogin Cecillie
  • Hiogo
  • James Egan Layne
  • Jebba
  • Liberta
  • Louis Shied
  • Maine
  • Medoc
  • Nepaul
  • Oregon
  • Persier
  • Plymouth Breakwater
  • Poulmic
  • Prawle Point
  • Ramillies
  • Riversdale
  • Rosehill
  • Skaalla
  • Soudan
  • Sunderland
  • Flying Boats
  • Scylla
  • Totnes Castle
  • Vectis
  • Viking Princess
  • Yvonne

World Shipwrecks

  • Narvik
  • Scilly Isles
  • Scapa Flow
  • Truk Lagoon
  • Falmouth
  • Other World Wrecks
  • South Africa
  • Tombstones
  • Submarines
  • The Ones That Got Away
  • Bombs And Bullets
  • Marine Archeology
  • Wreck Walks

Shipwreck Book Reviews

  • Neutral Buoyancy – Tim Ecott
  • Admiral Shovell’s Treasure-R.Larn & R.McBride
  • The Silent Service – John Parker
  • Scapa Flow In War And Peace-W.S.Hewison
  • This Great Harbour-W.S.Hewison
  • The Duchess-Pamela Eriksson
  • Stokers Submarine-Fred &Liz Brencley
  • The Wreck at Sharpnose Point – J.Seale
  • Business in Great Waters – John Terraine
  • Submarine in Camera – Hall & Kemp
  • Autumn of the Uboats – Geoff Jones
  • Under the Red Sea – Hans Hass
  • To Unplumbed Depths – Hans Hass
  • Goldfinger – Keith Jessop
  • Custom of the Sea – Niel Hanson
  • Stalin’s Gold – Barry Penrose
  • Pieces of Eight – Kip Wagner
  • The Man Who Bought a Navy – Gerald Bowman
  • The Treasure Divers – Kendall McDonald
  • The Deepest Days – Robert Stenhuit
  • The Wreck Hunters – Kendal McDonald
  • Sea Diver – Marion Clayton Link
  • The Other Titanic – Simon Martin
  • Falco,chief diver of the Calypso – Falco & Diole
  • World without Sun – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Ship of Gold – Gary Kinder
  • Seven Miles Down – Piccard & Dietz
  • The Living Sea – J.Y.Cousteau
  • The Undersea Adventure – Philip Diole
  • Life and Death in a Coral Sea – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Dolphins – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Whale – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Shark – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Sea Lion- Elephant Seal and Walrus – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Octopus and Squid – J.Y.Cousteau
  • Shadow Divers – Robert Kurson
  • A Time to Die, the story of the Kursk – R. Moore
  • The Sea Around Us – Rachel Carson

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